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Ss1 Plunger Head Fix?

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#1 TantumBull

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Posted 05 October 2008 - 01:55 PM

Recently, my Sharpshooter I stopped working. I took it apart and with some troubleshooting found that the plunger head no longer had a good seal. I've tried numerous things with no result. Does anyone think that a SNAP style plunger head would work? What about trying out the condom bow plunger head? What do you all think?

Edited by TantumBull, 05 October 2008 - 01:55 PM.

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#2 rork

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Posted 05 October 2008 - 02:11 PM

What size is the plunger tube? To make a rubber washer seal well, it has to be just a bit bigger than the tube it's in. This makes finding the proper size a bit of a hassle sometimes.
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<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20296" target="_blank">SNAPbow Mk. V</a>
<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>

#3 angelof DEATH182

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Posted 05 October 2008 - 02:11 PM

If the O-ring isn't properly lubed, it won't travel down the plunger, or it might be the lack of lube caused it to shrink, so the airseal sucks.
Try Relubing it, don't use petroleum based stuff, and if that doesn't work, a Snap head or a Condom Bow style one would probably work, good luck.
EDIT: Ninja'd.

Edited by angelof_DEATH182, 05 October 2008 - 02:12 PM.

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#4 TantumBull

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Posted 05 October 2008 - 02:14 PM

Rork: It's a hair smaller in diameter then an NF plunger tube.

angelof_DEATH182: It uses an Xbow style plunger head (no o-ring).

And thank you both of you. I think I'll be running over to Ace today to pick up a rubber washer.
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#5 Guest_Killakit_*

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Posted 05 October 2008 - 02:38 PM

I am thinking that the SNAP head will work.
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#6 chefdave

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Posted 05 October 2008 - 02:49 PM

If you can't find the right sized o-ring, Remove the current o-ring and wrap e-tape around the plunger head untill the seal is perfect. Then use Silicon based lube on the inside of the plunger tube (by far the best for nerf guns, usually comes in a spray can).

Edited by chefdave, 05 October 2008 - 02:50 PM.

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QUOTE(VACC @ Jul 21 2009, 08:13 PM) View Post
QUOTE(crispy) View Post

Talio likes to eat his own shit.
It's a distinct possibility. But seriously, that's all you could come up with? You are a terrible Troll.

#7 TantumBull

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Posted 05 October 2008 - 03:32 PM

angelof_DEATH182: It uses an Xbow style plunger head (no o-ring).


chefdave: Please read.
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#8 Split

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Posted 05 October 2008 - 07:33 PM

E-tape the head until it's too tight and remove a little at a time until it's just right, then add silicone spray lube. Or make it slightly looser and use o-ring lube. The spray lube will work better and is easier to clean and apply though, so definitely start with that if you have it.
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Teehee.

#9 TantumBull

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Posted 05 October 2008 - 08:58 PM

E-tape the head until it's too tight and remove a little at a time until it's just right, then add silicone spray lube. Or make it slightly looser and use o-ring lube. The spray lube will work better and is easier to clean and apply though, so definitely start with that if you have it.


Alright, thanks Split. I'll probably do that as I didn't have a chance to go to Ace today.
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#10 Draconis

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 07:32 PM

What works great for me (on the older style rubber heads) is the same basic idea as with the o-ring style heads, just with more material. I remove the heads from shaft, then clean and dry completely. Next, fold back the outside lip and begin winding E-tape around the inner lip until it presses out on the inside of the outer lip. Then just fold the lip back in place and reassemble. This ensures that the E-tape is not actually getting the action, and shouldn't need to be replaced ever. I find that using a section of bike inner tube wound around under the tape reduces the amount of tape that I need to use. I also cut my strips of tape in half, lengthwise. I need to do a write-up on this.
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#11 flashflint

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 07:58 PM

What works great for me (on the older style rubber heads) is the same basic idea as with the o-ring style heads, just with more material. I remove the heads from shaft, then clean and dry completely. Next, fold back the outside lip and begin winding E-tape around the inner lip until it presses out on the inside of the outer lip. Then just fold the lip back in place and reassemble. This ensures that the E-tape is not actually getting the action, and shouldn't need to be replaced ever. I find that using a section of bike inner tube wound around under the tape reduces the amount of tape that I need to use. I also cut my strips of tape in half, lengthwise. I need to do a write-up on this.



That is a great idea! Thanks, I cant believe I didn't think of that.
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#12 TantumBull

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 08:40 PM

What works great for me (on the older style rubber heads) is the same basic idea as with the o-ring style heads, just with more material. I remove the heads from shaft, then clean and dry completely. Next, fold back the outside lip and begin winding E-tape around the inner lip until it presses out on the inside of the outer lip. Then just fold the lip back in place and reassemble. This ensures that the E-tape is not actually getting the action, and shouldn't need to be replaced ever. I find that using a section of bike inner tube wound around under the tape reduces the amount of tape that I need to use. I also cut my strips of tape in half, lengthwise. I need to do a write-up on this.


My god, that's genious! Since I already put Split's method into action, and don't want to waste E-tape, I think I'll do this when the tape on now wears down.
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