We will be taking the Titan AS-V.1 and placing it inside the shell of the Front Gun from a Longshot CS-6.
We will also be making the Prometheus modular so that it can shoot many kinds of ammo.
I am borrowing from my Titan Minimization guide for some of the pictures and text in this guide, so if you see duplication, that's why.
Stock Titan, or titan internals, Pump and Air Tank, no other portion of the titan is used in this mod.
Stock LongShot Front Gun, or front gun shell, trigger rod and Trigger/Grip. A bonus would be a second front gun shell for use in the upper portion of the mod.
Any pump can be substituted for the Titan pump if you prefer, a hornet pump would be perfect, or even a bicycle pump.
PVC, PETG and misc:
1. Two 3/4" SCH40 PVC Female Adapters
2. 1 1/4" SCH40 PVC Slip Coupler (As many as you want shells)
3. One 3/4" x 1" SCH40 PVC Male Adapter
4. One 1 1/4" x 1" SCH40 PVC Bushing (At least one. If you get more, you can use them as shell holders)
5. Two 3/4" x 1/2" SCH40 PVC Male Adapter (For PETG Rifle Attachment and CPVC Rifle Attachment)
6. One 1/2" CPVC Slip Coupler (For CPVC Rifle Attachment)
7. One 3/4" x 1/2" SCH40 PVC Male Adapter (For Stock Missile Attachment)
8. One length of 1/2" SCH40 PVC pipe, at least 24" per rifle barrel, as much as you like for the number of barrels you want.
9. One length of 1/2" CPVC pipe, at least 24" per rifle barrel, as much as you like for the number of barrels you want
10. One length of 1/2" Thick wall PETG, at least 24" per rifle barrel, match up with the length of PVC.
11. Enough PETG to make as many shells as you have 1 1/4" PVC slip couplers. I made 3 4-shot shells and 2 5-shot shells.
12. A few feet of 3/8" external diameter, 1/4" internal diameter flexible tubing, same kind you'd use for a fishtank, I got a roll of it at Lowes for a couple bucks.
13. Double Spike 1/4" Check Valve
14. Liquid Nails
15. Hot Glue
16. Plastic Epoxy
17. Filler material for shell spaces (I used cardboard, there are much better materials out there for the purpose however)
Here's your stock titan, and your stock LSFG. We'll address the Titan first, assuming you have a stock titan, here's how you take it apart.
The first step to disassembling the titan is to get that stupid orange retaining ring off of the back. It's glued on at a couple points, but that's easily solved with a small flat-head screwdriver. As you can see here, it comes off easily. To remove the ring from the Titan totally, it needs to be cut, I just snipped one side of it and pulled it off over the pump housing.
After taking the shell off the titan, unscrew everything inside, including the pump handle, and pull out the pump and the air tank. Disconnect all hoses and etc, and set everything else aside. The only thing you'll be using for this mod is the pump, and the air tank.
After you finish removing the stupidly high number of screws that hold the pump housing in place, you get this lovely piece, which is the end of the pump. You need to fill in that little hole in the center with hot glue or something similar, this will disable the overpressure release valve and allow you to pump the Titan even further.
Here's the pump sealed up so that the overpressure release valve no longer comes into play. Please note that plugging a titan pump and singling it will remove its qualification in most wars, it's just too much of a monster.
I cut off the end of the air output for the pump to get a little more size and I had to trim down the threads in order for the 1/4" flexible tubing to fit snugly over the nipple.
To seal the air tank, I cut off the threaded portion and filled in the hole with hot glue. You can do whatever you like for this, I like hot glue.
Now, for the air restrictors. Since I'm going to be making the stock barrel into an attachment for the new gun, I need to remove the grille on the front of that as well as the grille on the front of the air tank attachment point.
I took a dremel tool with a cutting bit and just went to town. Be careful on the air tank that you don't go too far in, the seal for the front of the tank is at the back of that small barrel and you don't want to accidentally tear that up, 'cause then you've got an Ex-Titan.
To make the attachment work correctly, I cut off about half of the original attachment point of the air tank and dremeled down the area around it so that it would take the epoxy better.
Here you see the 3/4" female threaded PVC adapter epoxied to the original attachment point of the air tank. This provides the needed interface to attach any type of barrel that you can possibly dream up.
And now, on to the Longshot Front Gun
To begin, we have a Longshot front gun, we'll be butchering this thing.
Remove all the screws, first the 3 in the cocking grip, then all the screws in the shell. Make note of the 3 longer screws, they go in the 3 holes at the rear of the shell.
Reduce the inside to a flat plane.
Clear out any internal support mechanisms that would have supported the original LS internals from the front of the grip attachment point forward, leave the screw attachment poles in place. Do this for both sides.
Remove all grey protrusions
Take your cutting tool and remove all the grey protrusions and flatten out the gun so that there's a straight line across the gun from nose to tail.
Lay the Titan air tank in the shell and mark where the cuts need to be made to fit the tank in the front gun shell.
Here you see the cut made, with extra grooves set for the slightly larger rear portion of the tank.
Lay the tank in the opening to verify a good fit, it should protrude just slightly outside of the longshot shell, the tank is about 1/2-3/4" too large to fit inside the shell.
Since the titan pump relies on that insanely large foot-pump style handle in its stock form, I had to get creative with what to do about grip.
I took 2 pieces of 1/2" wooden dowel and glued them together, then took the dremel cutting bit and cut out a hole in the pump to insert the pieces in. I then hot-glued the whole mess in from the open end of the pump. Not sure why I thought I needed to tape it, but something about glue drying. Anyway, I then ran into the problem of the pump coming out of the tube because of the lack of a stopper, which was also provided by the giant original pump handle.
So I got a little bit crazy and cut a slot into the pump handle. It's not the most even cut, and I could wish it was, but I can fix that later, but I then used a screw that was about 3/4 as long as the diameter of the pump and screwed it into the bottom. This created a stopper for the pump, and solved the problem of the tube coming out.
Attach a small length of tubing to the titan air tank's input nipple, and attach the 1/4" check valve to the other end. use liquid-nails to seal the parts in place.
Attach a long length of tubing to the output nipple of the titan pump, or whichever pump you choose to use. Use liquid nails to seal the tube in place.
Loop the tubing around so that there are no kinks in the flow and attach it to the other end of the check valve. Make sure the check valve is oriented correctly before performing final sealing with liquid nails.
You can see that I got a little excessive with the tubing on the first try, you really don't need this much.
To make the trigger mechanism, use the trigger rod from the front gun.
First, cut the plastic piece off of the release rod for the titan air tank.
Then cut the rod down so that the rear of the upper portion of the rod lines up with the metal ring on the release rod for the air tank. Make sure the ring is as far back as it can go. You will need to trim the groove in the longshot rod so that it fits neatly over the titan release rod.
Once you confirm that the slot fits over the rod neatly, put a small amount of plastic epoxy into the slot and put it in place on the rod.
To attach the rod to the trigger, use plastic epoxy to join the rod and the trigger. Make sure that the epoxy does not spill over and seal the trigger to the grip.
Once the epoxy has dried, flip the gun over and for extra strength on the trigger pull, trim the slot out on another piece of the longshot rod and epoxy it in place on the other side of the titan rod.
A better picture of the final trigger mech. Horribly ugly isn't it? I really wasn't going for style here.
But you can see the metal ring that helps the plastic rod move the metal one back.
Take a second front gun shell and cut it down as shown above, fit the pieces over the titan pump and over the front of the tubing to further camouflage pump assembly.
Cut down a piece of cardboard to the appropriate size to cover the square openings on the side of the shell, secure it on the inside with your choice of adhesives, I used hot glue.
Here is your Prometheus Pistol complete and ready to be painted. At this point the shell can be reassembled and the gun can be used, but it looks pretty hideous.
DupliColor Flat Black Vinyl Dye
Krylon Metallics Silver
DupliColor Metallics Red
Krylon Fusion Gloss Black
Krylon Clear Coat - Gloss Finish
Start out with a coat of black vinyl dye over all the gun to prime it for other paints.
Make sure that all surfaces are evenly covered and no odd colored bits are left.
Add a coat of silver to insure that the next coat pops and is not dulled by a black undercoat.
Third coat of paint, eventually going to be the secondary color of the gun, primary being gloss black.
Add a couple more coats of red so that the metallics really glow, and then add tape. Tape anything you want to remain red.
Then go over in Krylon Fusion Gloss Black. It's a nice light paint that won't goop up and make the finish look odd.
Spend the extra money on Krylon, it's worth it.
Make sure you get everything, I did the internals just because it's easier than not doing them.
The completed Prometheus Pistol. I added the stencil design to cut out the unrelieved black in the rear part of the gun, I think it turned out really well.
View from the front, the stencil's a little blurry, I'll have to redo it with a brush instead of spray.
The other side, it's a little bit messy because I used the titan internals previously and didn't shave off all the glue.
Welcome back to the testing range Nerfers.
I fired two types of ammo for these tests. For the singled barrels I used 1/4" Steel weighted stefans, and for the shotgun tests I used double-BB stefans.
All ranges are shot flat, 20 pumps, rounded down to the nearest foot.
Singled 24" PETG: 134, 128, 122, 118, 110, 102 (Average: 119)
Singled 12" PETG: 104, 102, 88, 78, 78, 78 (Average: 88)
5-Shot (4 bursts): 52, 51, 50, 50, 49, 48, 47, 44, 43, 41, 36, 35, 32, 30, 29, 28, 28, 24, 24, 22 (Average: 38)
4-Shot (5 Bursts): 55, 55, 54, 53, 53, 52, 50, 50, 48, 48, 48, 46, 45, 44, 43, 43, 40, 38, 36, 36 (Average: 47)
Here's your stock Titan barrel hollowed out with a dremel cutting bit in order to accommodate the 3/4" x 1/2" male adapter that will allow it to connect to the new titan interface.
After it is sufficiently hollowed out, coat the bottom in epoxy and stuff it in the barrel.
Then spread epoxy all around the rim of the barrel, making sure to seal the entire thing in place, then set it aside to let it dry.
To begin making the shells, first glue four pieces of 4" PETG together in a square pattern. The easiest method for this is to glue two together, then glue those sets together.
For the filler material between the barrels and the edges of the shell casing, use FBR, you can use full pieces or cut them into quarters as shown here. I used full, quarters, and half pieces to fill in the various parts of the shell.
I had to stuff a quarter piece down the center of the formation (Gluing the barrels together in a diamond pattern would have prevented this problem, ah hindsight) to seal off the airflow there, and then stuffed half-pipe pieces of FBR down the edges to help hold the barrels in place.
To make sure the barrels are far enough out to get the seal correct, slide the shell casing onto the adapter that will eventually be used to attach to the titan and slide the barrels down until they connect with the adapter.
Here you see another option with 4 full pieces of FBR used instead of half, it gets rather crowded in there this way, I found it better to use the halves and fill in the rest with glue.
Here you see the beginning of the 5-barrel shell, the barrels must be glued in this star pattern in order to fit into the shell casing. You can use a piece of 1/2" FBR in the center to keep things measured out.
Here's a partial set of all the attachments I've created for my titan.
At the top is the stock barrel for the stock missle, I will be creating more missiles as time allows.
Next down is three shotgun shells, two 4-shot and one 5-shot meant to slide over the item directly below them which is the 3/4" x 1" male adapter epoxied on to the 3/4" x 1 1/2" female adapter.
At the very bottom is the 1/2" CPVC slip coupler epoxied into one of the 3/4" x 1/2" male adapters to provide the adapter for the CPVC rifle barrels
I painted all the attachments black as a starter color, I may leave them that way, we'll see how it goes.
In the back are 3 rifle barrels, 2 24" and 1 12", they're all PETG glued into standard 1/2" SCH40 PVC piping for stability, they slot into the 3/4 x 1/2 male adapter without any additional modification, this provides me the ability to quick-reload for long shots.
Then the missle next to the stock barrel with the 3/4" Male adapter attached. There are 2 5-Shot shotgun shells and 3 4-Shot shotgun shells next to the shotgun adapter on the right, they just slide on and off for very quick and easy reloading. Thanks to Grendel003 on for that idea.
This is a rocking gun, I love the look and I love the feel of that much power in a tiny little package. I may replace the pump with a Hornet pump at some point, but for now it's going up on the arsenal wall for use as a scattergun in wars and for target practice as a single. It's accurate to a very long range with that 24" barrel.
Hope you enjoyed the guide, I'm really enjoying working with the titan.
Suggestions and constructive criticisms are always welcome, as well as questions.
You can find my Flickr based guides and a bunch of pictures here:
Nerf Pictures and Writeups
Edited by hereticorp, 08 September 2008 - 03:12 PM.