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Homemade Check Valve

Proof of concept

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#1 BlackFox

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 04:29 PM

This is now my fourth write up on repairs rather than actual performance modifications.
I guess this could go under modifications because I was working on my blastfire, but I specifically want to focus on the check valve.

I've noticed an increasing number of "My check valve isn't working!!!" threads. This is a problem I've had before and it didn't take long before it happened again, so I thought I'd take a stab at solving this problem.

Before we begin, there are two things I'd like to make clear.

-It's much easier to replace the check valve than repair it. Find another pump and connect the vinyl tubing with larger ID tubing. The reason I wanted to keep this pump so badly is that I think the blastfire looks incredibly cool and replacing the pump would break my heart.

-The finished product did not work in this case. This was a proof of concept however because it did work prior to installation in the gun.

First off, remove the back end of the pump with the check valve.

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Take out the gasket and clean out all the bits of plastic. Take the plastic shell and dremmel the hole until it's wide enough to fit one of these:

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This is a simple hose connection piece. I salvaged it from my sisters nebulizer. Now she's gasping for air and I have a sweet blastfire that doesn't work yet. This part doesn't have to be exact, you could use anything that will connect to the vinyl tubing on the other side. This is just what I happened to have.

Now, the piece I used had two sides. One attached to the hose and the other was threaded. Cut off the threaded side so it's a flat plane against the back of the check valve and glue it down.

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Here's how the new check valve works:

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Starting at the left, the tubing that connects to the internals will go inside about a two inch piece of 3/8" vinyl tubing. Now inside this piece of vinyl tubing will be a BB. The BB will rest on top of the pneumatic connector. See how it works? Air can go past the BB when you pump the gun because the BB has wiggle room inside the 3/8" vinyl tubing. But back pressure pushes the BB against the opening of the connector making it airtight.

You should have something like this now:
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However, there's a problem. The smaller ID vinyl tubing can also be blocked by the BB, sealing it on both ends. To fix this, I shoved a pin through the 3/8" tubing a short distance from the stock tubing.

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Now it should work. I tested it by blowing into both ends. Sure enought, air could get in through the pump end, but not from the recieving end. This was my proof of concept.

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I plumbers gooped everything together and covered the holes created by sticking in the pin. The problem happened when I put everything back in the gun. The handle on the blastfire was too thin to keep the assembly in a straight line. It instead curved up towards the trigger from the end of the pump. The BB didn't seal against the tip of the connector like it did when it was straight and thus the gun still doesn't work.

It's a little rough, but with some improvements, I believe this could be very useful to anyone who's pump doesn't work.

EDIT: I should make a note that this could work much better if the whole assembly is aligned straight, preferably vertically. I attached the 3/8" directly to the back of the pump, but if everything was moved up say, into the handle, I would expect much better results.

Going further, the little pnematic piece I attached at the back of the pump has almost the same ID of the stock vinyl tubing. The BB can rest against the end of this vinyl tubing and work just as well, although I would recommend putting another pin in to make sure the BB doesn't get stuck inside the tubing.

Edited by BlackFox, 02 September 2008 - 04:47 PM.

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"Until we meet in the place where there is no darkness"
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#2 hierarchy

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 04:53 PM

Thats pretty cool. Hope your blastfire turns out o.k. If only you would have done this sooner. Then I wouldn't have sold my wildfire with the broken check valve.
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#3 CaptainSlug

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 04:54 PM

Check valves are very cheap to buy if you can find the ones that have barbed fittings built into them and are meant to be place inline on tubing.

Mcmaster has a couple for $3.40 (7757K11, 7757K12, 7757K13)

The ball bearing needs a soft seat in order to seal properly.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 02 September 2008 - 04:55 PM.

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#4 BlackFox

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 05:00 PM

Check valves are very cheap to buy if you can find the ones that have barbed fittings built into them and are meant to be place inline on tubing.

Mcmaster has a couple for $3.40 (7757K11, 7757K12, 7757K13)

The ball bearing needs a soft seat in order to seal properly.


Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I checked out what they had at home depot today, but the closest thing I found were the connector pieces for air compressors.
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"Until we meet in the place where there is no darkness"
-George Orwell, 1984
-----------

Think that piece is beyond repair? Think again!

#5 analogkid

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 07:43 PM

Nice, I love repair threads, personally I think they're often more useful than actual mods. My only concern is with the pin. Having actually played around now with an air powered blaster, I've found that leaks are common and a pain in the ass. If that pin got hit in just the right way during a war, the tubing could be ripped, and you would be SOL for a little while. I can totally understand not wanting to replace the whole pump too, my AT3K looks incredibly ugly with a giant airtank, two sections of hose, and a bike pump hose clamped to the side. But, function over form. Nice job.
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#6 BlackFox

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 07:52 PM

My only concern is with the pin. Having actually played around now with an air powered blaster, I've found that leaks are common and a pain in the ass. If that pin got hit in just the right way during a war, the tubing could be ripped, and you would be SOL for a little while.


I understand where you're coming from. I actually prefer springers for their reliability because I've had so many leaks spring up on me.

Actually, the pin is fairly secure. I said in the write up that I covered it with plumbers goop, but I don't have a picture of the assembly with the plumbers goop because, well, it would look just like the last picture I have, except gooey. I cut the pin so it is only slightly longer than the diameter of the tubing and the goop covering it leaves me confident that the whole tube will be destroyed before the pin causes any problems of its own.
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"Until we meet in the place where there is no darkness"
-George Orwell, 1984
-----------

Think that piece is beyond repair? Think again!

#7 analogkid

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 08:21 PM

Cool, can't see any problems then. I prefer springers also.
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#8 Renegademilitia15

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 11:06 PM

Nice. I've never had a problem with my check valve though, but I will consult you if I do. :D
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