14 replies to this topic

[Grinch]

I've got a bit of trouble going on with my Max-Shot. When I cock it, it's okay, but it won't shoot. After opening it, I noticed that the gun's mechanism is cocking fine, but gun just stays in the cocked position, and the catch won't be released. In short, I cock it, and the trigger doesn't...fire it. Any suggestions?

[THIRST]

Ya, that happened wth my First Shot. Just make sure the trigger and catch are in the correct position before and after cocking.

Edited by THIRST, 30 December 2003 - 07:01 PM.

[xedice]

There is also trigger saftey, which the trigger must press againts for it to work right. If you open the maxshot, and the barrel is facing the the left, the blue saftey piece is directly to the right of the trigger. I don't have a maxshot in front of me, so I'm doing this by memory.. but you can push the saftey down and hot glue it in place, so the trigger always works.

Not sure if that is exactly your problem, but thats the way I solved mine.

Edit: Also if that doesn't work, unscrew the blue plate that covers the trigger mechanism up. If you remove that I'm sure you can see exactly whats going wrong.

Edited by xedice, 31 December 2003 - 12:03 PM.

[cxwq]

What xedice said, kinda.

The pic isn't very clear but the blue piece can be replaced by the yellow piece. The yellow piece is just a bit of barrel peg that I superglued in the back half of the trigger pivot hole.

Note that this disables the safety mechanism.

[Grinch]

It's an old topic, yes. But, I'd rather not start a new one, so here goes...

Cxwq, what is the point of putting that little yellow piece in the trigger pivot slot?

I'm still not exactly sure how to remove the safety. If I just open it, and take out the blue piece, will I be okay?

[cxwq]

You can just remove the blue piece, provided you install the little yellow piece... <g>

The blue piece slides down, provided the cocking handle is fully lowered, and forces the trigger pivot forward. If the trigger pivot is not held forward, it will slide back when you pull the trigger and and will not disengage the plunger catch piece.

The yellow piece is a stand-in for the blue safety widget. The yellow piece doesn't care if the cocking lever is down or not.

[Grinch]

Alright, it's all good. Like Cxwq, I shoved an old barrel peg in the area where the trigger pivots. A little Krazy Glue secured it in place, and I used a dremel to make it flat with the rest of the innards. The whole gun seems to be working fine, now. But, what will happen if I fire it when the cocking handle isn't all the way down?

[Diablo]

Alright, it's all good. Like Cxwq, I shoved an old barrel peg in the area where the trigger pivots. A little Krazy Glue secured it in place, and I used a dremel to make it flat with the rest of the innards. The whole gun seems to be working fine, now. But, what will happen if I fire it when the cocking handle isn't all the way down?

If I remember C's mod correctly (it's been at least 3 months since reading it...), he mentioned something about being brutally maimed as your gun fell into thousands of pieces. So, make sure you push the handle all the way down

[Langley]

The non plunger end of the piston runs along a track in the curve of the lower part of the cocking lever. When you cock the gun, the piston can only move foreward and backward, and the distance between the track and the back of the gun is shortening, so the piston moves backward, and the catch engages to hold it in place. When you lower the cocking lever, the piston stays put because of the catch, but the track is now in it's origonal position, alowing the piston to slide foreward. If you remove the safety mechanism and install the little yellow thing, the trigger can now disengage the catch weather the lever is up or not. Mostly, this just causes the lever to slide violently down. It probably also reduces range just because the piston has to pull itself along the track in the lever just to move foreward, so the piston is traveling more slowley.



The point is that every time you fire the gun with the lever up, you're slamming the piston against the track and pulling down the lever. Eventually, you're going to snap off part of the track from the lever.
Like this:

Edited by Langley, 19 January 2004 - 05:58 PM.

[Grinch]

That's not pretty.

Anyhow, I just realized that I only glued an old piece of barrel peg in the trigger pivot slot on one side of the case. Everything seems to be working fine, but I hope it stays like that.

[Jappo]

my max shot plunger cracked, and the whole thing is broken. But im just going to cast an aluminum plunger that will kick some ass. Because the current one is way to weak I find.

[Jangadance]

I think that's a chronic problem, the Max Shot's plunger tube cracking. The spring is just too damned powerful. If any of you have bad performance with your Max Shot, first open it up and check if the tube is cracked. Seal it back up with plumber's goop or even PVC cement seemed to work for me.

[sporkboyofjustice]

Could a layer of electrical tape help keep the tube from cracking? I also hear a lot of talk about casting things in aluminum which is beyond my means at this point. What you could do is cast things in resin which is available in kits at the home depot for around $12 last time I checked. Has anyone tried this?

[Grinch]

Anyhow, I just realized that I only glued an old piece of barrel peg in the trigger pivot slot on one side of the case. Everything seems to be working fine, but I hope it stays like that.

Yeah. I just quoted myself.

Uh, after a few shots, the trigger stopped working again. This time, I made sure to do the same modification to the trigger pivot slot on the other side of the case. Now it's working fine.

Could a layer of electrical tape help keep the tube from cracking? I also hear a lot of talk about casting things in aluminum which is beyond my means at this point. What you could do is cast things in resin which is available in kits at the home depot for around $12 last time I checked. Has anyone tried this?

I think we need to find a way to cast Nerf parts in other materials. Resin is okay, but I think aluminum or steel would be better. I have three 1500s, but one of them has a snapped trigger, and needs a replacement. I was going to have one made out of wood by a professional, but that seemed a bit too far. I'm sure there are places that would cast metals for you, but when you combine the cost of making molds, buying plastic, etc., it might be more cost effective just to buy a whole new gun.

[cxwq]

[snip] ...but when you combine the cost of making molds, buying plastic, etc., it might be more cost effective just to buy a whole new gun.

Where's the fun in that?!

Grappling with this one myself as I intend to machine a rifling button in 17/32" gauge... happy happy joy joy.