I give complete credit for the Multi-Ammo idea to Gengar003, but I took it in a very different direction. Part of the materials list is swiped from his guide.
This is the stock Titan AS-V1, note the stupidly large pumping mechanism on the rear, the utterly useless sight on the top and the joke of a Scout integration clip on the side. If you want extra pain, you can also clip a Hornet to the bottom and use the front trigger to fire. You still have to fiddle with the hornet's front cocking mechanism to get it to work right though and you can't use the Hornet's Big Blast mode, you're stuck with single-fire mode.
All in all the stock titan is useless. But it has one redeeming feature, a bloody huge air reservoir that's designed to fire that giant missile you see on the front, so you can imagine what it can do with a tiny little 2 inch stefan dart.
My goal for this modification is to eliminate the integration points for the Scout and the Hornet, relocate the pumping mechanism to the area where the Hornet integration was previously, replace the stock barrel with a multi-mode screw-on barrel attachment, and remove any air restriction present in the stock gun.
Materials Needed:
1. Two 3/4" SCH40 PVC Female Adapters
2. 1 1/4" SCH40 PVC Slip Coupler (As many as you want shells)
3. One 3/4" x 1" SCH40 PVC Male Adapter
4. One 1 1/4" x 1" SCH40 PVC Bushing (At least one. If you get more, you can use them as shell holders on your Titan)
5. Two 3/4" x 1/2" SCH40 PVC Male Adapter (For PETG Rifle Attachment and CPVC Rifle Attachment)
6. One 1/2" CPVC Slip Coupler (For CPVC Rifle Attachment)
7. One 3/4" x 1/2" SCH40 PVC Male Adapter (For Stock Missile Attachment)
8. One length of 1/2" SCH40 PVC pipe, at least 24" per rifle barrel, as much as you like for the number of barrels you want.
9. One length of 1/2" CPVC pipe, at least 24" per rifle barrel, as much as you like for the number of barrels you want
10. One length of 1/2" Thick wall PETG, at least 24" per rifle barrel, match up with the length of PVC.
11. Enough PETG to make as many shells as you have 1 1/4" PVC slip couplers. I made 4 4-shot shells and 2 5-shot shells.
12. A few feet of 3/8" external diameter, 1/4" internal diameter flexible tubing, same kind you'd use for a fishtank, I got a roll of it at Lowes for a couple bucks.
You can make shells out of CPVC as well, but you can only get 4 barrels in a shell that way. Plus, my FBR doesn't fit in 1/2" CPVC so I stick with PETG for everything.
The first step to disassembling the titan is to get that stupid orange retaining ring off of the back. It's glued on at a couple points, but that's easily solved with a small flat-head screwdriver. As you can see here, it comes off easily.
To remove the ring from the Titan totally, it needs to be cut, I just snipped one side of it and pulled it off over the pump housing. If you're just doing this for the air restrictor removal and the overpressure valve plugging, you can leave the ring in place to be slid back on later.
Here's your stock titan with the shell removed, you can see the stupid amount of complexity that was introduced in order to provide the integration for the Scout and Hornet, there's also one more idiotic item to this gun, a ball-barring based restriction that doesn't allow the gun to fire if it's tilted up too far. I have no idea why this was even put in.
Here's your complete internal air system including the hornet integration point at the bottom and the connection to the pressure monitor on the top.
After removing all the trigger mechanisms (And there were a ton of little screws, you can see the two ball-barrings that prevent the gun from firing when tilted. GET RID OF THEM.
If you're following this guide for removal of the integrations and minimization of the gun, you can discard all the mechanisms that link the gun with the lower part of the grip. This includes the entire front trigger assembly, and everything from the rear assembly except the trigger itself. You can also remove the round button used to fire the scout and the U shaped bracket that it pressed on. This makes the whole chamber a lot less crowded, but since we're pulling out the pump, we'll have all the room you could ever wish for in here.
After you finish removing the stupidly high number of screws that hold the pump housing in place, you get this lovely piece, which is the end of the pump. You need to fill in that little hole in the center with hot glue or something similar, this will disable the overpressure release valve and allow you to pump the Titan even further.
Here's the pump sealed up so that the overpressure release valve no longer comes into play.
Here's the stripped down internals of the Titan, what we're going to do is get rid of all the extraneous air inputs and outputs and add some tubing to extend the connection between the pump and the air tank. We're also going to put a check valve so that the pump doesn't have to handle the back-pressure generated by the additional pumping.
Oh, and we'll also be getting rid of that moronic air pressure monitor that the air tank is attached to in the upper right of the picture.
Here's the air mechanisms for the Titan excluding the valve for the Hornet integration. At this point we have two points that need to be sealed, one on the air tank that originally led to the pressure monitor, and one of the pump that originally led to the Hornet integration point.
You're going to have some difficulty yanking off the tubes after you unscrew the nuts holding them on, they're glued into place and you may have to cut the ends a little to get them off. Don't worry about this, we'll be replacing the tubing with larger and better quality stuff.
To seal the air tank, I cut off the threaded portion and filled in the hole with hot glue. You can do whatever you like for this, I like hot glue.
On a side note, don't buy the ACE brand hot glue, it has this weird yellow tinge and tends to bubble a lot more than the stuff I usually use, which is Stanley Brand Dual-Temp sticks.
To seal the pump I did the same thing as I did to the air tank, but I cut off the entire L bend before sealing to give the pump a little less of a profile since it's going to be exposed on the gun.
Now, for the air restrictors. Since I'm going to be making the stock barrel into an attachment for the new gun, I need to remove the grille on the front of that as well as the grille on the front of the air tank attachment point.
I took a dremel tool with a cutting bit and just went to town. Be careful on the air tank that you don't go too far in, the seal for the front of the tank is at the back of that small barrel and you don't want to accidentally tear that up, 'cause then you've got an Ex-Titan.
To make the attachment work correctly, I cut off about half of the original attachment point of the air tank and dremeled down the area around it so that it would take the epoxy better.
Here you see the 3/4" female threaded PVC adapter epoxied to the original attachment point of the air tank. This provides the needed interface to attach any type of barrel that you can possibly dream up.
Unlike Gengar003's mod, my mod does not integrate the stock barrel and thus avoids all the blank airspace created by that mod and also decreases the overall length of the gun.
I cut off the end of the air output for the pump to get a little more size and I had to trim down the threads in order for the 1/4" flexible tubing to fit snugly over the nipple.
Here's the beginning to the piping modification of the Titan, I attached a short length of tubing to the air tank and epoxied it into place, and on the other end put a spiked T adapter for future integration of Hornet barrels as a shotgun mod. I won't actually be using the second air output in this mod, but it will be used eventually.
Since the titan pump relies on that insanely large foot-pump style handle in its stock form, I had to get creative with what to do about grip.
I took 2 pieces of 1/2" wooden dowel and glued them together, then took the dremel cutting bit and cut out a hole in the pump to insert the pieces in. I then hot-glued the whole mess in from the open end of the pump. Not sure why I thought I needed to tape it, but something about glue drying. Anyway, I then ran into the problem of the pump coming out of the tube because of the lack of a stopper, which was also provided by the giant original pump handle.
So I got a little bit crazy and cut a slot into the pump handle. It's not the most even cut, and I could wish it was, but I can fix that later, but I then used a screw that was about 3/4 as long as the diameter of the pump and screwed it into the bottom. This created a stopper for the pump, and solved the problem of the tube coming out.
I originally had a bicycle pump in place of the stock pump, but the throw distance on it was really bad mojo. So I had to go back.
I did a little creative modification on the other side of the titan shell, since I removed all the crap for the Scout, I had to fill in the holes, so I taped the outside of the shell and filled in the hole and slots with a little bit of hot glue. Worked pretty well.
I also had to take the dremel to the retaining clips for the air tank, I rotated the tank for better access to the air input and that caused it to come up a little out of the shell and the clips on the other side caused the shell not to close. So I just hot-glued the air tank in place and trimmed the retaining clips.
Here's your basic mod completed, the pump is hot-glued in place with a tube running through the interior up to the T junction and from there into the air tank.
The other opening of the T junction is sealed by a small piece of tube filled with hot glue and then glued in place to the shell.
Epoxy is used on all tube join points to insure that air tightness is maintained.
The mod works at this point, but I want more pressure out of it, so I had to get somewhat creative.
I added a 1/4" check valve to the mix to stop back flow of the air because the pump doesn't really seal and there's a lot of pressure involved. I knew
I wasn't going to be finishing this, so I just hotglued it in place.
Attachments:
Here's your stock Titan barrel hollowed out with a dremel cutting bit in order to accommodate the 3/4" x 1/2" male adapter that will allow it to
connect to the new titan interface.
After it is sufficiently hollowed out, coat the bottom in epoxy and stuff it in the barrel.
Then spread epoxy all around the rim of the barrel, making sure to seal the entire thing in place, then set it aside to let it dry.
To begin making the shells, first glue four pieces of 4" PETG together in a square pattern. The easiest method for this is to glue two together, then
glue those sets together.
For the filler material between the barrels and the edges of the shell casing, use FBR, you can use full pieces or cut them into quarters as shown
here. I used full, quarters, and half pieces to fill in the various parts of the shell.
I had to stuff a quarter piece down the center of the formation (Gluing the barrels together in a diamond pattern would have prevented this problem,
ah hindsight) to seal off the airflow there, and then stuffed half-pipe pieces of FBR down the edges to help hold the barrels in place.
To make sure the barrels are far enough out to get the seal correct, slide the shell casing onto the adapter that will eventually be used to attach to
the titan and slide the barrels down until they connect with the adapter.
Here you see another option with 4 full pieces of FBR used instead of half, it gets rather crowded in there this way, I found it better to use the
halves and fill in the rest with glue.
Here you see the beginning of the 5-barrel shell, the barrels must be glued in this star pattern in order to fit into the shell casing. You can use a
piece of 1/2" FBR in the center to keep things measured out.
Here's a partial set of all the attachments I've created for my titan.
At the top is the stock barrel for the stock missle, I will be creating more missiles as time allows.
Next down is three shotgun shells, two 4-shot and one 5-shot meant to slide over the item directly below them which is the 3/4" x 1" male adapter
epoxied on to the 3/4" x 1 1/2" female adapter.
At the very bottom is the 1/2" CPVC slip coupler epoxied into one of the 3/4" x 1/2" male adapters to provide the adapter for the CPVC rifle barrels
I painted all the attachments black as a starter color, I may leave them that way, we'll see how it goes.
In the back are 3 rifle barrels, 2 24" and 1 12", they're all PETG glued into standard 1/2" SCH40 PVC piping for stability, they slot into the 3/4 x
1/2 male adapter without any additional modification, this provides me the ability to quick-reload for long shots.
Then the missle next to the stock barrel with the 3/4" Male adapter attached. There are 2 5-Shot shotgun shells and 3 4-Shot shotgun shells next to
the shotgun adapter on the right, they just slide on and off for very quick and easy reloading. Thanks to Grendel003 on NerfHaven for that idea.
I began the painting process by priming both sides of the shell in black, and then going over in silver, which will be the secondary color for the
gun.
As you will probably note, I filled in the hole where the scout firing trigger was with hot glue, and I added 3 shotgun shell holders on the top of
the shell. I'm going to add some barrel holders for the rifle attachment on the other side once I figure out a good way to keep them solidly attached.
If you're wondering, that's the titan's trigger in the upper left.
I then went over the silver with metallic red automotive spray paint after taping up the parts of the gun that I wanted to remain silver.
The paint didn't stick real well on the pump, but that's alright, it'll rub off in a little bit anyway.
The Titan as complete as it's going to get, I'd do more with the colorscheme, but I'm turning the titan innards into something else and I just don't
feel like it.
Something funny did happen with the first test shot of the 24" barrel though. I was just curious how well a single-BB stefan would fire, and it
actually did shockingly well, it landed about 110' from my original location, sadly that 110' was accomplished not in a straight line but in an L
shape. About 76' forward and then another 50ish feet to the right.
Ranges with Dual BB 2" Stefans (All are fired with 20 pumps, flat):
24" PETG Barrel
92, 90, 90, 89, 88, 87, 87, 84, 80, 79
12" PETG Barrel
Not even worth measuring, darts went all crazy sideways
4-Shot Shotgun Shells
48, 46, 39, 36
46, 45, 42, 40
47, 44, 40, 39
46, 46, 41, 40
I didn't do ranges on the 5-shot or the missile yet, I'm also going to make 1" Mongo Stefans, and I'm going to try out the home made missiles that
someone or another on here (can't remember who) wrote up the guide for.
You'll see more from me on a Titan Integration soon, I'm about 80% done with it right now.
Hope you enjoyed the pictures, I'm really enjoying working with the titan.
Suggestions and constructive criticisms are always welcome, as well as questions.
You can find my Flickr based guides and a bunch of pictures here:
Nerf Pictures and Writeups
Edited by hereticorp, 25 August 2008 - 01:06 PM.
