#1
Posted 26 July 2008 - 04:39 PM
Thanks,
Tyler
#2
Posted 26 July 2008 - 06:09 PM
Rit dye is really more for fabrics, and even then is known to fade pretty easily.
#3
Posted 26 July 2008 - 07:23 PM
Just get some vinyl dye.
Rit dye is really more for fabrics, and even then is known to fade pretty easily.
Huh, thats wierd, but it worked for our R/C wheels that are made of plastic, and to this day they haven't faded.
#4
Posted 26 July 2008 - 08:15 PM
Just get some vinyl dye.
Rit dye is really more for fabrics, and even then is known to fade pretty easily.
Huh, thats wierd, but it worked for our R/C wheels that are made of plastic, and to this day they haven't faded.
HAHA, it didn't work. I guess that nerf internals have a sealer or something on them. But isn't vinyl dye spray?
#5
Posted 26 July 2008 - 08:23 PM
#6
Posted 26 July 2008 - 08:37 PM
Is this the stuff you guys are talking about?
http://www.partsamer...tegoryCode=3281
If it is, great. If not, then I'm shit outta luck.
Edited by Mxer4life369, 26 July 2008 - 08:38 PM.
#7 Guest_OS1_*
Posted 26 July 2008 - 10:35 PM
I'm not dying my whole gun, just the internals. But I appreciate the info BS. I'll use duplicolor. I'll try to make another topic with pictures when I'm done.
Is this the stuff you guys are talking about?
http://www.partsamer...tegoryCode=3281
If it is, great. If not, then I'm shit outta luck.
Ok, well I have a LOT of experience here. And you guys are missing the reason your not getting good results.
1. The orange plastic parts on our guns has a built in lube property inherent to it. It is added to the plastic during molding process (maybe this should be added to the very informative post on working with plastics.
2. Rit dye WILL work, you have to do it right. Right means a long soak in HOT dye. I have done LONG experiments on this process and others. Here is what I have learned: To Rit dye the parts: You need to clean them in very hot water. Then scuff them. Then use about 1/2 a box of black to about 1 gallon of water. You also need to have an old crock pot. Place the parts into the water / dye in the pot and allow them to "cook" for about 4 hours at 110 degrees. That is the "low" setting but you have to check the temp often. Then give then a stir every so often... like every 30 min to insure that the parts sitting on the bottom get exposed. I actually used a strainer to hold them off the bottom during this process. The dye WILL go into the plastic and go pretty deep as to not scratch off during normal use. The heat opens the pores. WARNING if you jack up the heat, your part will look SO NICE! It will shrink about 1/8 inch, or warp just a little, but will look SO NICE! The shrinkage / warpage will not be apparent but will prevent the part from working right and you will be so mad, but it loos SO GOOD.. HA HA
--- THAT IS WHY I DONT USE THIS METHOD ANY MORE. A MESSED UP PART RUINS THE WHOLE DAY---
Ok, so I even have a few of these old parts somewhere if you MUST see them, I can post them but really, it just shrinks them and you wont even know until it wont work and you put it next to a new one and figure it all out...or just listen to OS1. I just want to point out A. It will work and work well B. You stand a good chance of a flub up C. The reason is the plastic compostion.
NOW, we got that outa the way: I have posted this before, I'll do it again- Here is how to make it work (it is not perfect but I have spent weeks on this problem and its the best so far:
1. CLEAN the plastic ... HOT HOT water from the tap, a good amount of DAWN dishwashing detergent and a green scotchbrite. I mean really get after it. If it is a body shell you have to clean it inside as well or you will transfer the mold parting oils from your fingers, but here we are talking about the orange stuff
2. Scuff the plastic. I use 800 grit wet / dry automotive paper. Again, all the nooks and crevices.
3. Clean it again. As a last step I wipe it all off with alcohol (I have also used acetone but be careful it can soften the plastic sometimes if left on long.)
4. Use a good vinyl dye. I had some commercial brand for awhile but recently moved to duplicolor fabric and vinyl dye in a spray. All of these are really pretty wicked stuff so have good ventilation going on. Unlike paint, it "soaks" into the plastic.
The result: If you did it well it will last a long time. It is not a permanent solution especially under heavy use, but it is really good. I cant remember the professional brand but can go back and look if you want but the Dupli Color is working well. On hard plastics (the body) I get excellent results. It dries to the touch in minutes and has very little build up with several coats. It has not gummed up or caused any other problems so far.
I hope this helps and shows you that it is not just the product but the correct application that gives good results. Good luck in your build.
#8
Posted 27 July 2008 - 09:03 AM
#9
Posted 27 July 2008 - 10:47 AM
well seeing as vinyl die soaks the plastic with it's color I'm not sure if you can. If you are feeling really lazy go buy some colored duct tape and use that.I used the rit dye yesterday, and it didnt soak it THOUROUHLY(SP?). But it did darken the plastic up a little. But will I still be able to use the vinyl dye?
#10 Guest_OS1_*
Posted 27 July 2008 - 12:01 PM
I used the rit dye yesterday, and it didnt soak it THOUROUHLY(SP?). But it did darken the plastic up a little. But will I still be able to use the vinyl dye?
It was not hot enough long enough...and that process works but can alter the plastic dimensions... I'm gonna look and see if I have any of the many parts I baked too long and if so will cut one open.. it works.
#11
Posted 27 July 2008 - 12:29 PM
I used the rit dye yesterday, and it didnt soak it THOUROUHLY(SP?). But it did darken the plastic up a little. But will I still be able to use the vinyl dye?
It was not hot enough long enough...and that process works but can alter the plastic dimensions... I'm gonna look and see if I have any of the many parts I baked too long and if so will cut one open.. it works.
I'm sorry, but I don't understand your post.
What process will work but will alter the plastic?
Why would you cut any parts open?
#12
Posted 27 July 2008 - 12:57 PM
I used the rit dye yesterday, and it didnt soak it THOUROUHLY(SP?). But it did darken the plastic up a little. But will I still be able to use the vinyl dye?
It was not hot enough long enough...and that process works but can alter the plastic dimensions... I'm gonna look and see if I have any of the many parts I baked too long and if so will cut one open.. it works.
I'm sorry, but I don't understand your post.
What process will work but will alter the plastic?
Why would you cut any parts open?
Did you read the post that is four above yours? It's very long and in depth. If you read it, you should know what he means. He will cut a part open to show how the dye soaks into the plastic, I believe.
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#13
Posted 27 July 2008 - 01:00 PM
#14 Guest_OS1_*
Posted 27 July 2008 - 07:08 PM
Anyhow- having done all this I now use the second option now (spray) and find it ok... AND i just dont let that orange bother me as much as it used to and leave it alone more. GOOD LUCK on your builds
And someone need
Edited by OS1, 27 July 2008 - 07:10 PM.
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