42 replies to this topic

[nerfsharpie6]

Testors makes acrylic paints now. I've used them and its easy to wash off than enamel paints. If I get a new NERF gun I may try this, I may not, it depends on how much money I get or if i get a job.

Edited by nerfsharpie6, 18 July 2008 - 05:30 PM.

[Blacksunshine]

Damn! Thats one bitchin gun.

[serpent sniper]

What sort of paint did you use for them? The same as the gun? Does the paint affect range?

I just used some silver spraypaint on them, nothing special. I don't think that it affects the range, but I've just been eyeballing it.


EDIT: I finally bothered to get some official ranges. Distances were measured in my basement, with an antique yard stick no less (thats just how committed to the Steampunk genre I am, also it was the closest measuring device). I'm glad to say that they are better than what I had been estimating.

Ranges from shortest to longest, one magazine worth, there was 2 feet of ground skipping on average for the furthest darts.

9'
12'
19' 8"
26'
26'
29'

Range - 20 ft (I'm not sure why it varies so much)
Average - 20.29 ft

So, it's a little bit better than I had been estimating. It's undeniably an RFR though. I'd like to add that the posts in the shells HAVE been removed

Edited by serpent sniper, 18 July 2008 - 10:31 PM.

[Falcon]

Damn, that is awesome. If Myst/Riven/etc. had guns/action sequences amongst the puzzles, that's what they'd look like. I want one.

[Forsaken angel24]

I fucking cannot stand Steampunk. It bothers me.... alot.

However I love the amount of detail you went into.
An excellent paint job.
Good work.

[serpent sniper]

Thanks FA, I'm surprised to get compliments from people who don't like steampunk. I really value everyone's input.


I'm wondering, I have a few other guns that I'm planning on at least painting. Would anybody be interested in a writeup or maybe even video that goes over how to do some of the techniques I used? I know there was some interest on how I painted it on the first page.

Let me know if you want me to put something together, and specifically what you would like to be explained. I'm happy to share what I know.

Edited by serpent sniper, 20 July 2008 - 12:47 AM.

[NerfCrazy]

I think it would be great if you made a video or a write up on how to do the metal painting technique.

[Kid Flash]

And the wood painting technique... please...

[ice]

Just to put a word in for the paint, I use the same type. Yeah, it's sort of expensive, but it goes a long way, and holds up very nicely as long as the gun has first been primed with warhammer spray paint, usually chaos black.

[Watari]

For those of you that are using Warhammer paint, I have a question. I went to Games Workshop a few days ago to buy paint and the guy asked me what I was going to paint, I said, "a toy gun," and he told me that, "Our paint isn't good for those type of things because the oils in your hand will make our paint wear out faster because our paint is water based." (Of course that's a summarized version) Then he asked me, "what're going to paint again? a NERF GUN ...so I'm thinking that he knows alot of people go there to buy paint for nerf guns... Anyways, he told me to buy "Enamel Spray Paint" and that it's only $1 at Wal-Mart (it actually was $1-5 depending on the brand...) so I bought this spray paint and put masking tape on parts of my gun, painted it, let it dry etc. My first gun that I painted was a tech target (that I bought modded, it was really good) and when I was finished painting (that includes a whole day of drying) the range decreased dramatically, most of the time, it wouldn't even shoot, i'm not sure if banding it will help or not but anyways:
Here is my question:

Do you think that the enamel paint decreased my range?
(And yes, I did paint the gun intact, and I painted the cocking mechanism...maybe I shouldn't have done that, but hey, it was my first paint job)

P.s. Also, concerning the Warhammer paint, when you paint the primer, then paint over that, do you use the sealant (the guy at Games Workshop said, you should paint with the primer, paint the color you want it to be and then paint the sealant, which he also said, "is alot more expensive, because the primer is about this much, then paint is about $3 a pot [and I know that 1 pot can't paint a whole gun, you might need more depending on the gun] and then you have to buy the sealant," and compared to $5 enamel spray paint...that seems way more expensive)

So my questions are: Do you actually use the sealant, or do you just use the primer, then paint over it?

And if you don't use the sealant, does the paint come off (in any specific areas, e.g. the handle because your hand is there...or the hand grip or the stock etc.)

TO SERPENT: That is a very good paintjob, and yes, I would like to know what you used to paint the gun (like anything else other than spray paint, maybe brushes, and what size of brush and how you mixed the colors not unless the paint was already like that, i'm not that good of an artist so I have no idea how to paint)

EDIT:

2.50 a jar? Thats a bit expensive in the long run. Would testors model paints work? They're half the price but a little on the small side.

Testors paints are enamels, while Citadel colours are acrylic-based. This means that thinning the Testors requires petroleum solvents, and Citadel paints can be thinned with water.

All of that aside, it's a beautiful piece.

I'm generally of the opinion that our hobby is not a monolithic endeavor; not all of us play in Nerf wars, not all of us engage in cosmetic changes like these, and so on. But we can certainly appreciate a work of real creativity and skill when we see one. Well done.

Testors makes acrylic paints now. I've used them and its easy to wash off than enamel paints. If I get a new NERF gun I may try this, I may not, it depends on how much money I get or if I get a job.

Actually, the person at Games Workshop recommended Testors instead of their paint, I wonder if he's just trying to make us nerfers not buy their paint...

Edited by Watari, 20 July 2008 - 12:20 PM.

[MrDelish]

While Testors may be a more solid coat, I don't think you'll ever get anything like this with it:





I did it with Games Workshop paint. It definitely does come off fairly easily, but I'd rather it look good.


As for techniques, those aren't really very complicated. All you need is a decent brush and paint. Do not wet the brush, and get some paint on it. Wipe off most of the paint back into the paint container, then wipe some more off on a towel or paper towel or something. Use long, sweeping motions on the part you're painting to get those lines, or poke the brush head onto the surface to get that spotted look he has on the barrel.

Edited by MrDelish, 20 July 2008 - 01:19 PM.

[serpent sniper]

For those of you that are using Warhammer paint, I have a question. I went to Games Workshop a few days ago to buy paint and the guy asked me what I was going to paint, I said, "a toy gun," and he told me that, "Our paint isn't good for those type of things because the oils in your hand will make our paint wear out faster because our paint is water based." (Of course that's a summarized version) Then he asked me, "what're going to paint again? a NERF GUN ...so I'm thinking that he knows alot of people go there to buy paint for nerf guns... Anyways, he told me to buy "Enamel Spray Paint" and that it's only $1 at Wal-Mart (it actually was $1-5 depending on the brand...) so I bought this spray paint and put masking tape on parts of my gun, painted it, let it dry etc. My first gun that I painted was a tech target (that I bought modded, it was really good) and when I was finished painting (that includes a whole day of drying) the range decreased dramatically, most of the time, it wouldn't even shoot, i'm not sure if banding it will help or not but anyways:

Hmm, well I'm not sure why the guy was so against making a sale. Any paint is going to come off of something that's handled a lot. With a good clear coat that shouldn't make a huge difference.

Here is my question:

Do you think that the enamel paint decreased my range?
(And yes, I did paint the gun intact, and I painted the cocking mechanism...maybe I shouldn't have done that, but hey, it was my first paint job)

I would bet that it was the paint on the cocking mech. If you still have the gun, try some silicon spray on it.

P.s. Also, concerning the Warhammer paint, when you paint the primer, then paint over that, do you use the sealant (the guy at Games Workshop said, you should paint with the primer, paint the color you want it to be and then paint the sealant, which he also said, "is alot more expensive, because the primer is about this much, then paint is about $3 a pot [and I know that 1 pot can't paint a whole gun, you might need more depending on the gun] and then you have to buy the sealant," and compared to $5 enamel spray paint...that seems way more expensive)

So my questions are: Do you actually use the sealant, or do you just use the primer, then paint over it?

And if you don't use the sealant, does the paint come off (in any specific areas, e.g. the handle because your hand is there...or the hand grip or the stock etc.)

A couple things; I don't use the Citadel clear coat or primer. I do on miniatures, but for this gun I primed it with Rustoleum ultra flat black. And used Krylon gloss clear coat. I painted a longshot with just enamel spray paint and after a few games the paint was coming off of the edges of the handle. Any way you paint a gun, you should use clear coat. (not sure about vinyl dye)

Also, one pot WILL paint a whole gun. The paint really goes a long way. If you were doing a gun in one solid color, you could probably paint say 2 mavericks, or 3 nitefinders with one pot for an example.




Nice MrDelish! Ooh ooh, lemme guess, dark angels green, shining gold, and chainmail?

Edited by serpent sniper, 20 July 2008 - 01:33 PM.

[MrDelish]

and some mithril silver, I think. There are shades of each color you said, except the gold and white.

[serpent sniper]

Ah, thanks dude. I've been waiting for your feedback.

The one thing that I like about the Citadel paints is that I can control the viscosity by how much water I add. The other thing is, I don't know how inks will interact with enamels. The inks really give things a richer color, and I'm not sure I could paint as well with other paints. Citadel paints are what I am used to.

I am a little worried now about the whole lube thing. I've been using silicon spray, and I hope that it doesn't have any ill effects. That never really occurred to me how lube and paint might react. I figured that everything was fine if it was clear coated.

And I do admit to cutting some corners on prep. In retrospect, I wish I had sanded the warnings off.


I'm starting on a Maverick soon. Now I'm not sure whether to continue using Citadel paints or enamels. As a side note, I wish I could find little gizmos and doo-dads that are as cool as yours. I was really impressed by the 42K.

[anon-dude]

coolest paintjob ever!!!

I wished I made it

[Ubermensch]

Please don't resurrect old topics with such a meaningless comment.