Materials you will need:
1 N-Strike Longshot CS-6
1 Dremel w/ cutoff wheel for metal
1 LONG 17/32 Forstner drill bit (it MUST be a Forstner drill bit)
12" of 17/32 brass tubing
1 Ultra Fine point Sharpie
1 #2 Philips-head Screwdriver
1 Very Small Philips-head Screwdriver
Harvey's Silicone Grease
1 Needle file or 80-grit sandpaper
Additional Standard Mods:
1 BBB Spring addition
1 O-Ring addition
Harvey's Silicone Grease
Okay, so start off with disassembling your LS by removing all the screws and carefully pulling the shell apart. Remove the Jam Door and set it aside, you'll need it later. Next, remove the bolt/plunger tube assembly and carefully use the very small screwdriver to push out the little metal pin so you can remove the bolt sled (the blue piece pinned to the bolt.) Once you have the bolt sled removed, remove the screws from the back of plunger tube and remove the plunger assembly, again, set it aside and don't lose the screws.
Now, chuck the Forstner bit into whatever drill you're using and set the speed on one of the lowest settings. Plastic is soft, you don't need to get carried away. Drill out the AR from LS to alleviate about 70% of the LS's problems. After you hear the AR spring get tangled in the drill bit, stop drilling (or continually check it, whatever you prefer) and remove the little bugger, throw the AR away, you don't need it.
After you get the AR out of the way, flip the bolt/plunger tube assembly over and look down it. You'll notice the Dart Peg. This is the piece that keeps you from loading Stefans. Take the #2 Philips-head screw driver and smash that little fucker out so the bolt looks like a long tube.
Next, take your brass tubing and gently push it just a little ways in. You'll notice that while the bolt LOOKS like it'll take the brass tubing without issue, but I assure you that it's just a hair too big (again, you likely know how I know.) The bolt is a long tube, so you need a long drill bit. Carefully drill out the entire length of the bolt to just beyond the OP hole, your brass should fit nicely now, if it's too lose, you'll need to epoxy it in later, if it's just a hair snug, you're golden, you'll just need to put some silicone grease on it before the final assembly.
Push the brass tubing down the bolt until it reaches the spot you stopped drilling (or the back of the bolt, whichever comes first.) Take your sharpie and trace the outline of the plastic onto the brass tubing. Once complete, remove the tubing and use your dremel's cutoff wheel to cut along the lines you made. DO NOT OVER CUT, you need to do this with CS accuracy. Once you finish cutting it out, set the left over tubing aside so you can use it in a later mod. Use the file or the sandpaper to knock the rough edges off. Be sure to clean off any extra metal filings within the tube because they WILL mess your gun up.
The piece of brass tubing now is a shadow of the existing bolt, therefore, I'm calling this the Shadow Bolt. Push Shadow Bolt into the original bolt with whatever you need to make it stay in (silicone grease if it's too tight, epoxy if it's too lose.) Once you have it seated correctly (see why I told you not to over cut?) and locked into place, do the spring and o-ring additions before generously applying silicone grease to the o-rings and reassemble the entire gun, being sure to plug the OP hole in the bolt just to be sure.
This mod adds 15-20ft of range to the already long-range Longshot. The dual springs coupled with the tight-fitting bolt ensure a large volume of air is moved and trapped just right.
Comments? Flames? Questions?
And I'm sorry about the lack of pics, my little bro stole and lost my digital cam and I'm working on getting a new one.
Edited by Bullet Dragon, 20 July 2008 - 03:15 PM.
