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Need Help With Semi-auto Valve


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#1 Ironman

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Posted 10 December 2003 - 06:55 PM

I want to make a homemade, semi-auto gun but need a valve. I know about Zero's homemade, but is there anything better? Would Zero's Basic Pull Valve work?
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#2 NerfManiac

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Posted 10 December 2003 - 07:10 PM

Why the Fuck are there two of these topics? One is enough dude.
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#3 Ares

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Posted 10 December 2003 - 07:50 PM

A basic pull valve would not work if praticality is needed. If you could pull it back and push it forward(the firing pin, i mean) incredibly fast than you might retain some air, but your pressure would be virtually gone. Youd need a multi-tank reservoir style valve (such as Zero's semi-auto valve) to make it work. or an air regulator. You're choice. And try not to post two identical topics, just as some advice for these boards. Good luck with the homemade.
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#4 Ironman

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Posted 10 December 2003 - 08:02 PM

Sorry I posted two of the same topics. Its my first post and I was click-happy.
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#5 andrew01

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Posted 11 December 2003 - 04:14 AM

I once saw this homemade that had two ball valves. First the gun was pumped with air(all ball valves closed). Then one of the ball valves was opened to equalize the pressure, then it was closed. Then the second ball valve(trigger) was opened and the gun fired. I think you might be able to get multiple shots doing it this way but Im not entirely sure...

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#6 Langley

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Posted 11 December 2003 - 11:12 AM

If you want to delve into uncharted teritory, you could try This, but it's kind a work in progress and I haven't been able to make it work yet. But if you screw around with it and try something with it that works, then let me know.
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#7 Ironman

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Posted 11 December 2003 - 07:56 PM

Is there any semi-auto valves that are cheap to make and have a built in trigger?

Edited by Ironman, 14 December 2003 - 05:55 PM.

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#8 Ironman

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Posted 14 December 2003 - 06:01 PM

A basic pull valve would not work if praticality is needed. If you could pull it back and push it forward(the firing pin, i mean) incredibly fast than you might retain some air, but your pressure would be virtually gone.

Could you somehow put a spring in the to make it come back by its self. Damn i wish I had a Designing program to show what Im talking about! -_-
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#9 Ironman

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Posted 15 December 2003 - 07:49 PM

Should probably go with Zero's Semi-Auto then. :wacko:
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#10 Zero Talent

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Posted 17 December 2003 - 09:57 PM

If you can snag some 7/16" OD brass, you can make a better "Semi-auto valve," without all the work or vinyl tubing. In fact, you'd merely need three 1/2" CPVC connectors, 1 1/2" CPVC endcap, ...Some 1/2" CPVC... and three 7/16"ID 5/8"OD Rubber O-rings. Only problems that can arise are if the CPVC connectors have constricted rings in the very center of them, to ensure equal bonding of each CPVC piece.... You'll have to grind that part out with a file, dremel, or sandpaper... Or just use some 1/2" Copper pipe connectors instead.

Either way, you just need to get four pieces of CPVC, long enough to fit into each connector, or longer. Each time you put a piece half-way into a connector with Plumber's Goop, throw an O-ring in the other side, and close it in with one of your other peices of CPVC. With three connectors, this will mean three O-rings gates, and thus with an endcap on one side, three chambers; On for input, one for output, and one for temporary storage. The connector, pipes, and O-ring essentially do the same thing as those endcap "gates" in the original design, but are much, much easier, and a touch cheaper, to build.

Something like this piece:

http://www.geocities...coppervalve.txt

Apologies for the uglification, and t3h 4n7i-1337. Just got back from Return of the King, kind of dazed. Going away Friday, won't have time to build this until after Christmas.... Even if it'll only take about 5 minutes or less...

Inline versions of this valve are much "kewler," build one of those if you can.

[Oh, and for clarification, that brass rod is pulled out (right) when you want to fire. This should bring the holes just to the left of the middle O-ring, into the to-barrel tank, allowing air stored in the left-most tank into the barrel, and plugging off the air tank. If the pressure manages to be stronger than friction forces in the pin, and the thing ends up firing by itself (there is a very good chance it will not), I can give you another design that operates more off the basic valve's "balanced pressure force" idea... Just requires an internally plugged end, much like the basic valve's solid bar provides (in a sense).

I just worry about the self-firing, because this valve is missing the constriction of the O-rings in the 3/4" PVC design, as well as the small internal SA of 1/4"OD Brass...

We'll see after Christmas.]

Edited by Zero Talent, 17 December 2003 - 10:02 PM.

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