15 replies to this topic

[Langley]

I made a post over at NHQ. Fearing that it would be wasted there, I'm reposting it here in it's own topic.



This is my contribution to the semi-auto zero valve. All the beige stuff is PVC and PVC couplings and reducer brushings. The largest piece of PVC is 1", the smaller piece to the far right is 1/2", and it's nested inside a ground-out reducer. The smaller piece to the left is 3/4" PVC. The kinda orange stuff inside the 3/4" is CPVC with o-rings. The golden tube is 7/16ths brass. The brown squares are dowel rods (or anything else that will cut off airflow) The black circles are holes, and the curved tube is clear plastic tubing of just about any diameter. The coupling on the nested 1/2" PVC is where the barrel is attatched.

The blue thing is mystery material. It's connected to the end of the brass. Basically, it's whatever would cut off air flow to the barrel best. I'm thinking some kind of rubber washer assembly, or maybe wood dipped in plastidip. if anyone has any sugestions, they would be most apreciated.

Basically air flows into the leftmost chamber from the airtank through the plastic tube. It flows into the brass through the fist set of holes, and out through the second set into the main chamber. When the brass is pulled back, the second set of holes is pulled into the leftmost chamber, cutting off the main chamber from the air tank. As this is happening, the mystery material looses contact with the nested 1/2" PVC opening the valve.

The idea is that when the valve is opened, the greatest possible volume of air can flow through the valve, without any restriction whatsoever. This design also eliminates the need for a third temporary air chamber like the one in zero's semi-auto valve.

Zero- If any of this looks familiar to you, this is an evolution of the d-valve design I showed you. I'm trying to convert it for a piston instead of a diafragm, but before I can get to that point, I need this design to work first, so I can eliminate some variables and potential problems first instead of trying a shitload of new things at once and not knowing which of them is making the whole system fail to work.


Edit: Just to explain the airflow, I've included pics of the valve open and closed.

Edited by Langley, 29 September 2004 - 02:56 PM.

[Alexthebeast]

Bravo! I'm actually working on an adaptation of the Zero valve as well, but nothing like yours.

[cxwq]

Nice drawing and explanation. I'm tempted to do something like this just for the hell of it, even though homemades aren't allowed in my wars.

Let us know how the construction goes!

[Langley]

Thanks. When I have some free time over winter break I'll try and make some prototypes. I'm probably going to have to build several different valves with different materials making the seal just to see what works best.

On a side note, does anyone have any ideas for a constant pressure supply? For this valve to really work, you need a constant stream of air at the same pressure, so a static PVC tank isn't going to do it. I want to avoid canabalizing an RF20 tank if I can. I was thinking that some rubber hose capped at one end may work, but I don't think any available hose is pliable and streatchy enough for the job. I also don't want to spring for a regulator if I can help it.

PS.

CX- I was thinking about a design for a release valve of the variety that hasbro uses in their pumps that could be home made and implemented in homeades to make them more safe. I'll post a diagram when I get the chance to make one.

Edited by Langley, 08 December 2003 - 12:38 PM.

[Talio]

Well Langley my friend. As you know, I've been working experiments with low preasure compressed air tanks. Now the great thing is that these tanks just have air forever. The trick of course is getting the output preasure low enough to not to buckle the pvc. This means using a heavy duty air regulator, or as I've been working on, steal air channels with homemade air realease valves, restrictors and release holes. I'm gettin closer. Now what I was also thinking. I'm convinced I can make my own compressed air tank. Josh and I know a guy with a fill station. All you need is the quick release valve and then some steal for the actually tank. This would require some welding, which Josh knows how to do, and I'm trying to learn, but all in all I think it's possible. The biggest challange is finding a cheap regulator that can take the preassure and lower it enough to make sure your gun doesn't blow up in your hands. I'll let you know if I come up with anything else. But your best bet is really just to get a regulator and use that.

[Langley]

I think american science and surplus has a $7 regulator from a sodafountain type thing. I don't know what it's maximum pressure is, but it can regulated down to anything between 0 and 60 psi if I can remember correctly. Do a google search for the site. (I'm at work and don't have my favorite places on this comp)

[six-hungry-ducks]

This is a great design. Since this is (possibly) a semi-auto valve (or is it?) there should be something (I like to talk in parenthesis) to bring the bolt back after every shot. I have taken the picture of the original design, and edited it so that you can see a "spring" between the blue thing and the back of the second chamber. The spring is the gray zig-zag thing. That is where I think the spring should go, that's why I edited the picture so you could see it.
Maybe we could modify this design for an full-auto valve. The possiblities are endless!

Edited by six-hungry-ducks, 08 December 2003 - 09:08 PM.

[Langley]

Yeah, I was thinking of a spring there too, but I wanted to aviod cluttering the diagram. It would also be possible to just slap on a trigger and put a tension spring on that. It really doesn't matter as long as something resets the stopper. I suppose you could come up with an air actuated full auto modification of this design, but how are you going to reload fast enough to keep up with the valve?

[six-hungry-ducks]

how are you going to reload fast enough to keep up with the valve?

I'm superman.

[The Inventor Guy]

Wow. That design is EXCELLENT! Well done.

-TIG.

[Viper]

I'd send the design pln ith pictures to cx when u get done with it.

[Gamefreak]

Wow, you guys posted in a 10 month old topic with nothing important to say! Read the Code of Conduct . Then, if you see fit, get bent.

Edited by Gamefreak, 30 September 2004 - 03:43 PM.

[Langley]

Wow, you guys posted in a 10 month old topic with nothing important to say! Read the Code of Conduct . Then, if you see fit, get bent.

Wow! You just jumped all over a couple of people who weren't even really doing anything wrong! You're a fucktard!

I posted a link to this thread in this other thread and some people commented on it. I'm very sorry if your uncontrolable excitement over a new thread caused you to prematurely ejaculate all over your screen only to be disapointed by a ressurected topic.

TIG & Viper- Thanks, I've still got to build it, but I've got some new ideas to improve airflow. If I can get hold of a tap-and-die set, a solid 3/4" aluminum rod, and a grinder I'll be set.

Stealth Edit: I also got some ideas for an air supply since this thread's origin. Someone posted a link to a site that sells rubber tubing that is similar to what you would find in an RF20. I've just got to dig up the topic and find the link when I get out of class tonight.

Edited by Langley, 30 September 2004 - 05:21 PM.

[Viper]

you could use layered bicycle tubing for the CPS.

[Langley]

This is the link to the thread with the rubber hose.

[Viper]

That is ideal! The only kind I know of has a metal matrix on the inside of the hose. Does your valve release air more efficiently than the zero valve?

Edited by Viper, 01 October 2004 - 05:24 PM.