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Magstike Bike Pump Adapter

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#1 Djorn

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Posted 01 April 2008 - 11:37 AM

Hello.

First and foremost, this mod is not recommended to be used with magstrikes that have had the overpressure release valve tampered with or removed.

You will need:

A Magstrike
A road bike inner tube (i used a 700 x 26/32 $3-4 at REI) Schrader or Presta valve is up to you
Two small 1" hose clamps
A drill with a drill bit to match your inner tube valve
Duct tape

I also recommend:
An O-ring that is a little beefier then the stock O-ring (I bought a verity pack to get mine)
A hack saw (or the saw bit that comes with a leatherman)

First open up your Magstrike and pull the plunger back on your pump:
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Note the position of the O-ring on the plunger.
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The hole you are going to drill needs to be on the pump side of that plunger in order work correctly. I would recommend using the area painted black as a vertical reference.

Use the center of pump / pump handle as a horizontal reference for your hole.
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Pull the plunger out of the pump and secure the pump to the side of the case with a clamp or some duct tape.
Drill your hole to match your inner tube valve. Make sure you are drilling perpendicular to the pump and only
drill through the first side of the pump.
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Next cut your inner tube down so there is about an inch on either side of the valve (I know my picture looks different)
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Slide the cut inner tube over the pump, it will be a tight fit so be careful not to tear the inner tube. make sure the valve is over the hole you drilled. Check to make sure the valve fits into the hole in the case as well. then wrap the inner tube with two to three layers of duct tape to make sure it doesn't balloon after you clamp it in place:
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Next make your final adjustments to the inner tube and clamp it in place:
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Put it all back together and you're all done.

However, I would highly recommend that you use duct tape reinforce the part that holds the pump plunger in place, it will be under pressure that it was not designed for.

I have two more recommendations the first is that you swap out your O-ring like so:
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This will make it so that when you use a bike pump it creates a seal automatically. With the stock O-ring, you had to apply some pressure to create a seal and it was inefficient. One draw back with the beefy O-ring is that it lowers the inefficacy of the hand pump (it creates back pressure).

The second suggestion is that you cut a window in the back of yor air tank case:
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(I know it looks messy; I am a function over form kinda guy)
I have a few old wildfires and i really missed this window on the newer automatics.

To pump this gun up with a bike pump pull the plunger out all the way, attach your bike pump and go for it.
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WARNING Do not point the plunger/pump handle at anyone or anything fragile while inflating your gun. If something where to break that pump could really do some damage.

That said I would also for the same reason use low pressure pumps.. all you need is 30 - 40 psi.

Let me know what you think.
I wish you all luck.

(I may edit in a few video links to show how i use it in a week or two. I don't own a camera so I will have to borrow one.)

YAY FOR FIRST POST!!!!!


Edited by Djorn, 01 April 2008 - 11:38 AM.

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#2 doubleshot

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Posted 01 April 2008 - 11:47 AM

Very nice first post, I may do this to mine, and with the bike tube being so long you could goop the hell out of it, and it definitely wouldn't leak.
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#3 CaptainSlug

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Posted 01 April 2008 - 11:55 AM

This makes me laugh because it's ghetto on the inside, but clean on the outside.
Good work.
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#4 Bomberman

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Posted 01 April 2008 - 01:44 PM

At first I thought that you could only use a bike pump, but the fact that you can use the standard pump handle AND a bike pump makes it very efficient. How is noise? Does it still make that kind of squeak noise when you pump with the pump handle when you pump with the bike pump? Like my titan and my magstrike make this little low pitched squeak when I pump them.
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QUOTE(silentsnipe) View Post

It's not like that. I put lube on it and its the same. Its just stuck. And when I cock it back it goes farther back then usual. Also I push as hard as I can and it wont go back in. I've tried the methods and they wont work. Also pics are up.

#5 Djorn

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Posted 01 April 2008 - 02:03 PM

At first I thought that you could only use a bike pump, but the fact that you can use the standard pump handle AND a bike pump makes it very efficient. How is noise? Does it still make that kind of squeak noise when you pump with the pump handle when you pump with the bike pump? Like my titan and my magstrike make this little low pitched squeak when I pump them.

If you replace the O-ring the standard pump is garbage but still usable, because the tighter seal creates a vacuum when you pull the plunger back. That back pressure needs to be released before it can be pumped again. For some reason on my gun, and this may very depending on how tight you hose clamps are, the point at which the vacuum releases is next to the bike pump valve.

I just checked and it still squeaks a little. After about two and a half pumps on my bike pump the bladder fills up.

When at nerfing battles I pump the gun before the round starts with the standard bike pump, then keep it topped off with an Ultraflate Plus using 12g cartridges. You get about 3-4 clips per cartridge, and i figure if it works on a bike tire it will work with my nerf gun.
Edit:

This makes me laugh because it's ghetto on the inside, but clean on the outside.
Good work.

- added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole

Edited by Djorn, 01 April 2008 - 11:17 PM.

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#6 umdlancer

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Posted 01 April 2008 - 09:58 PM

Erm, you can get much better results with a 1/4" push-to-connect tee, an acetal check valve, a tube-stem reducer, and some 1/4" OD tubing.

Edit:
Not that I'm disparaging your work or anything, but if you use the parts listed above and splice it all in between the pump and the trigger valve, you'd avoid the problem of the rocket-propelled pump shaft.

Edited by umdlancer, 01 April 2008 - 10:16 PM.

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#7 Djorn

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Posted 01 April 2008 - 11:17 PM

Erm, you can get much better results with a 1/4" push-to-connect tee, an acetal check valve, a tube-stem reducer, and some 1/4" OD tubing.
Edit:
Not that I'm disparaging your work or anything, but if you use the parts listed above and splice it all in between the pump and the trigger valve, you'd avoid the problem of the rocket-propelled pump shaft.

I see what you mean. But you can get all of the parts for this mod at Fred Meyer for around $5-8. And as far as a rocket propelled pump shaft, it is unlikely but possible... you can always test it by trying to rip it out by hand. :lol: :looks at the ground and kicks at his foot: ...and I guess i am not quite at that level where I feel comfortable messing with the tubing. I also like using the pump chamber as kind of a buffer for when I use a CO2 bike pump.
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Ghetto on the inside, but clean on the outside.


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