47 replies to this topic

[OfAllTheNerf]

This method of modifying reverse-plunger springers was first "invented" by one of my friends a year (or more, before I got into Nerf) ago. He isn't a member of the forum so I thought I might as well post it, seeing as no one else has come up with it yet (that I've seen).

Here's your Scout:



Unscrew the slider on top.



Then proceed to unscrew the rest of the gun.



Now take out the plunger assmebly.



Now take the barrel out. You can throw that away.



Now get ~3 inches of CPVC or other barrel material of your choosing. Wrap e-tape around the bottom of the barrel and then try inserting it into the plunger chamber.



Make sure it has a snug fit, but not so tight that it's hard to move it in and out.



Now that you have your barrel ready, we need to make sure a dart won't fall into the plunger chamber (you could just load it while uncocked, but in the case that you forgot). Put a dab of hotglue on the inside of the end of the barrel (the end with e-tape in it (not shown)).



Now push your barrel all the way into the plunger chamber, and put some hot glue on this part of the shell.



Now replace all the internals and let the glue dry.

Now you are essentially done, but here are a few pictures of things I did to increase power/convenience/consistency. They should be pretty self explanitory but if you have any question feel free to ask.







Finished internals, note the nut behind the spring (power increase).



After you screw it up.



I apologize for the blurry/overexposed pics; the LCD on my camera recently broke (it shows the image but with a bunch of fuzzy lines), so I can't tell if I've taken a good photo or not. I hope you could still understand it.

Now it feel like it packs more of a punch, and this is much easier than sanding out the stock barrel.

As for the ranges, I deserve a fucking medal. It's like 20 degrees with atleast 15 mph winds. Anyways, the five darts I shot all went atleast 35', and went up to 50'. Winds probably caused the difference, and for longer consistant range, I would recommend using smaller darts weighted with one copper BB.

Questions? Comments?

-OfAll'

[Galaxy613]

Err where do you get this one? From the Unity 'weapon system'? It's almost like a maverick minus the turret.

Edited by Galaxy613, 29 March 2008 - 09:44 AM.

[OfAllTheNerf]

Here's a pic of the front of the gun (the only thing that changed), it looks pretty clean.

Err where do you get this one? From the Unity 'weapon system'? It's almost like a maverick minus the turret.

Yes, I got this is the N-strike Unite Power System. Way back (before I modified), when it was first released. I know they're still selling them as some Toys are we's.

It is like maverick, with the same backwards plunger design. Other guns that use this type of plunger chamber are the Recon and Crossfire.

-OfAll'

Edited by OfAllTheNerf, 29 March 2008 - 10:01 AM.

[OberonFox]

I know it's a relative crap gun (kudos regardless on improving it in any way: nice mod) but I love how the scout looks. I'd buy one just to play around with if I could ever find one of the suckers.

[OfAllTheNerf]

I know it's a relative crap gun (kudos regardless on improving it in any way: nice mod) but I love how the scout looks. I'd buy one just to play around with if I could ever find one of the suckers.

Yeah, it's still pretty bad, but could be used for indoor wars or a poor sidearm.

I agree with you on the looks. I would love to have one painted by Direct Thread any day. It was actually one of my favorite pistols before I started modding.

I believe they sell these as a different version of the Tech Target's, but they're green, blue, and orange.

Thanks BTW.

[Split]

Under normal and ideal circumstances, compressing the spring constantly won't make it stronger. The amount of force output by the spring is directly proportional to the distance moved. Basically, you're still only compressing the spring the same distance (since you're cocking the gun for the same distance).

Force from a spring = spring constant * distance compressed

So the only thing you've done by adding that nut is add a force of spring constant*width of nut to both the nut and the back of the gun.. aka no power increase for the gun.

I did like the idea for the glue at the back of the barrel to keep darts though. Was that yours or your friends?

[venom213]

Thanks a lot OfAll. I destroyed my scout's barrel when I was trying to get the air restrictor out. I use CPVC for most of my guns anyway. I'm guessing that this would work for the Longshot Front Gun as well considering that their plunger's are very similar.

Edited by venom213, 29 March 2008 - 12:48 PM.

[Galaxy613]

Thanks a lot OfAll. I destroyed my scout's barrel when I was trying to get the air restrictore out. I use CPVC for most of my guns anyway. Im guessing that this would work for the Longshot Frong Gun aswell considering that their plunger's are very similar.

Yeah I was thinking that also. That AR is hell to get out.

[OfAllTheNerf]

Splitlip, the way I reason it is the further a spring is compressed, the more energy is being stored up. I can't disprove you with laws (mainly because I'm too lazy), but there is a definite increase in power. I can feel the difference just cocking the gun. Thank you though. As for the glue, I thought of that.

Venom, no problem. I always hated getting the ARs out of guns like these too. It should work on the LS front gun, they are basically the same internals.

[Bomberman]

By the way, at Targets, they have a set for $20 that comes with a blue titan, and a blue scout. I think the blue titan is a bit wierd, but the scout looks kind of cool.

[Pineapple]

Thanks a lot OfAll. I destroyed my scout's barrel when I was trying to get the air restrictore out. I use CPVC for most of my guns anyway. Im guessing that this would work for the Longshot Frong Gun aswell considering that their plunger's are very similar.

Too bad you wiped your LS front gun.

I just pulled the AR from my son's Longshot front gun, and I'm quite surprised at the range increase, especially knowing how lousy the front guns are. We're talking NiteFinder ranges (stock) now. I can safely assume the same for a similarly modified Scout.


Like -OfAll' said, you can still get a Scout blaster in the newer TechTarget sets (replacing the original TT blaster of which I think was the best out of the box blaster to fix up). The reverse-plunger design is not known for phenomenal ranges, but it did allow Hasbro to design Nerf blasters with cool slide-action priming mechanisms as in the blasters aforementioned above (Mav, Scout, Crossfire, Recon, LS front gun).


Good mod, -OfAll'. Scout mods kinda went downhill early on, and other blasters caught our eyes and drew our attention away, except for the LARPers. Unique mod. I like the nut behind the spring idea (like the Maverick penny mod), and I am inspired to try some of your ideas to my son's LS front gun (I took it apart since it had a sticky trigger, and while it was apart figured to just knock out the AR in it).

Plus I haven't modded something in awhile. Still building my SM1500.



-Piney-

[venom213]

Well I finished the mod. It gets about 35-40 feet max. I didn't add a nut or anything, I might try adding a Mav or LS front gun spring. I am disappointed, but I didn't have very high hopes for this gun to begin with. I also put some lubricant (jelly of some kind) on the E-Tape, I am not sure if it helps or not.

Edited by venom213, 29 March 2008 - 12:56 PM.

[OfAllTheNerf]

Thanks Piney. I mainly just wanted to do something "new" while making a mod simpler. I think it gets the normal modified range for a reverse plunger gun. I'd be honored if you tried mine.

Well I finished the mod. It gets about 35-40 feet max. I didn't add a nut or anything, I might try adding a Mav or LS front gun spring. I am disappointed, but I didn't have very high hopes for this gun to begin with. I also put some lubricant (jelly of some kind) on the E-Tape, I am not sure if it helps or not.

Nice to know someone has already done it. Like I said the ranges aren't all that great, but if I remember correctly ompa only got 45' out of his brassed one. And personally, I think 5' for ~30mins of work is worth it. Lubricant probably helps, I just used Heavy Duty Silicone Spray. A spring replacement would also help, although I don't know how much the cocking mechanism can take.

-OfAll'

[Tehmandude]

Under normal and ideal circumstances, compressing the spring constantly won't make it stronger. The amount of force output by the spring is directly proportional to the distance moved. Basically, you're still only compressing the spring the same distance (since you're cocking the gun for the same distance).

Force from a spring = spring constant * distance compressed

So the only thing you've done by adding that nut is add a force of spring constant*width of nut to both the nut and the back of the gun.. aka no power increase for the gun.

Sorry for quoting almost the whole thing, I didn't see any other parts I was able to backspace.

If the nut takes up the space for the spring to move around when being compressed just a little bit, then it does give a power increase to the gun.

But, if the spring already didn't have leftover space, and since the spring's strength is always the same, it doesn't increase the power of the gun.

Anyways...

OfAll, that mod looks pretty easy. I might try this mod if I can get my hands on a working one.

(I don't want to double post)

Edited by Tehmandude, 29 March 2008 - 03:37 PM.

[Quilan Fett]

Under normal and ideal circumstances, compressing the spring constantly won't make it stronger. The amount of force output by the spring is directly proportional to the distance moved. Basically, you're still only compressing the spring the same distance (since you're cocking the gun for the same distance).

Force from a spring = spring constant * distance compressed

So the only thing you've done by adding that nut is add a force of spring constant*width of nut to both the nut and the back of the gun.. aka no power increase for the gun.

I did like the idea for the glue at the back of the barrel to keep darts though. Was that yours or your friends?

But, you are compressing the spring with the nut, so wouldn't it be Force = spring constant * (plunger pull + nut length).

[MoonMaster]

But, you are compressing the spring with the nut, so wouldn't it be Force = spring constant * (plunger pull + nut length).

So you mean that if I can pull my plunger farther and have bigger/longer nuts, I'll most likely get better range?

Edit: Sorry OATN, I read your mod and wandered off topic. Excellent way to simply mod a reverse plunger operated gun!

Edited by MoonMaster, 29 March 2008 - 09:02 PM.

[Quilan Fett]

Yeah. Uh, you didn't know that?

[OfAllTheNerf]

Yeah, it also helps if your nuts are made of steel. Or atleast as hard as steel, to ensure that you can shoot far enough.

Anyways, I know the nut helps, take for example the +bow. It has three cocking notches, each gets a different range by compressing the spring at different forces. If you pulled the plunger rod of an NF an inch and let it go, would it go as far as when you cock it and shoot? No. Refer to Quillan's equation.

Hope this helps everyone in the future (I wish I didn't kill both my Crossfires for the springs...)!

[keef]

I like it. I may do this to mine if I can't sell it. The cocking rod broke off, and I need to fix it. What did you use to lube it?

LMFAO. All this talk about bigger nuts, and squirting.

Edited by keef, 29 March 2008 - 08:43 PM.

[OfAllTheNerf]

I like it. I may do this to mine if I can't sell it. The cocking rod broke off, and I need to fix it. What did you use to lube it?

You could use a nail instead of the cocking rod. I lubed it with heavy duty silicone spray. I'm sure o-ring lubricant would work too, but seeing as the whole thing is so tight jelly might squirt everywhere.

[MoonMaster]

Qui'lan (or however you spell it) I would have to be an incapable wad not to know that. I was just making a ub3r5uxorz attempt at a pun.

Edit: I didn't mean to insult you. If you found this insulting, I'm sorry Qui'lan.

Edited by MoonMaster, 30 March 2008 - 08:48 AM.

[venom213]

Yeah, it also helps if your nuts are made of steel. Or atleast as hard as steel, to ensure that you can shoot far enough.

That is so added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole!

I added a nut to the gun, I think it helped a little bit. My biggest problem is the glue holding the barrel keeps breaking. I might try using a stronger adhesive, or applying more glue.

Edited by venom213, 29 March 2008 - 09:03 PM.

[OfAllTheNerf]

Yeah, it also helps if your nuts are made of steel. Or atleast as hard as steel, to ensure that you can shoot far enough.

That is so added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole!

I added a the nut to the gun, I think it helped a little bit. My biggest problem is the glue holding the barrel keeps breaking. I might try using a stronger adhesive, or applying more glue.

Lol, thanks.

I don't seem to have any trouble, but let the glue gun heat up pretty high before apply the glue. Then, when it is dry, put more glue around the barrel (on the side of the shell the internals are on). I'll get a close up of what I'm talking about tomorrow when I get more batteries .

[Green-Buckshot]

I hope you don't mind me stealing your creative use of hot glue for my singled Tek Ten. There's a lot of space I can fill to get better spring compression. I'll be drafting a write-up for that later. Anyway, great mod. I'll consider doing this to my friend's Scout IX-3...

I love your mods dude... You certainly do produce a lot of these in a short period of time don't you?

[Quilan Fett]

Qui'lan (or however you spell it) I would have to be an incapable wad not to know that. I was just making a ub3r5uxorz attempt at a pun.

I am not an idiot either. I was trying to disprove Splitlip's post saying that the nut did not help range. As you can see, it obviously does.