11 replies to this topic

[eddieoctane]

This is my first post on these boards, so I am sorry if I am breaking any rules. I searched for this information, but got nothing, so I m now asking. As I am modifying 2 Mavericks I have (1 of which may end up helping me design a functional speed loader) and there is already a thread in this forum about paint job pictures, I figured this was the right place to post my questions.

First off, can anyone recommend a way to remove the big, embossed Nerf logos of the side of a gun? I thought of using a mouse sander because I could be more precise but I am afraid I might overdo it and damage the gun shell, and the idea of sitting down with varying grits of sand paper and working for who knows how long makes me shudder.

Second, as far as painting goes, what do you recommend as a spray paint to use? Any particular brand? Is primer necessary? And what would you recommend for marking off areas I don't want painted a certain color (masking tape, blue painter's tape, etc)?

I appreciate any help you can offer in my endeavor towards becoming a decent nerf modifier.

[stickfigure91x]

Oh dear God. Forgive him Vacc he knows not what he says.

[NerfMonkey]

What the hell are you talking about? It's a valid question.

For removing logos and safety warnings you could try a metal file. A nail file might work too; that's what I use for small sanding jobs like roughing things up before epoxying them. I don't see why sand paper wouldn't work either. It wouldn't be that slow if you used coarse paper. You might even be able to use a Dremel with a sanding bit on it if you're extremely careful but that might damage the plastic. I'd try the nail file, one of the big black ones that are like 8" long.

The favorite brand of paint around here seems to be Krylon Fusion. It's made for plastic and adheres to the shell of the gun and won't come off easily. Primer isn't absolutely necessary but it does help, and you should also clean the shell before painting it to get any crap off that might screw up the paint. Rustoleum spraypaint is also popular but you have to make sure to get the plastic kind.

EDIT: Here's a picture of what I'm talking about, which ironically is from a website called Quality Logo Products.

Edited by NerfMonkey, 27 March 2008 - 10:29 PM.

[Kid Flash]

I just use whatever sandpaper i can find and the cheapest spray paint at walmart... now 96 cents. There is no real need to prime it. Also I prefer to just use masking tape to mark of spots.

[Carbon]

For cutting off raised sections, it might be worthwhile to try whittling it off with an x-acto knife. It'll leave you with a smooth surface, as opposed to trying to sand it off.

[stickfigure91x]

Yeah, I jumped to conclusions, sorry man


Make sure you take the time to disassemble the entire thing and paint each piece individually, it will look better, and moving parts will slide easier. You can also use car Bondo (you can get it at most car part retailers, just ask) to fill in any mistakes, or gaps.

Edited by stickfigure91x, 27 March 2008 - 10:43 PM.

[CaptainSlug]

First off, can anyone recommend a way to remove the big, embossed Nerf logos of the side of a gun?
Second, as far as painting goes, what do you recommend as a spray paint to use?

1. Files, sandpaper, sanding sponge, etc.
2. Spray Vinyl Dye.

It provides the most durable finish you can get and it doesn't require anything more than a clean plastic surface for a good application. Do light coats and wait 15 minutes between coats then let dry for 24 hours.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 28 March 2008 - 02:53 PM.

[nerfsharpie6]

First off, can anyone recommend a way to remove the big, embossed Nerf logos of the side of a gun?
Second, as far as painting goes, what do you recommend as a spray paint to use?

1. Files, sandpaper, sanding sponge, etc.
2. Spray Vinyl Dye.

It provides the most durable finish you can get and it doesn't require anything more than a clean plastic surface for a good application. Do light coats and wait 15 minutes between coats then let dry for 24 hours.

I would go with Captain Slugs advice on this. I would start with a file and sand it down to the surface and clean it up with some light grit paper. Take the gun apart and remove anything you don't want painted. To mark off what you want to paint you can use normal masking tape or use blue painters tape. Its essentially the same thing. For Vinyl Dye, try it, I've never used so I don't know what its about. Although I've heard it produces a superior finish over paints. I don't think they offer a wide array of colors, where Krylon does. Good luck with what you are doing. And if you want to put a new logo on the maverick you can find programs to make the logo and paint over it as a template.

Edited by nerfsharpie6, 28 March 2008 - 04:43 PM.

[KyleDarklighter]

There's also another option. If you don't want to file or sand down to a thinner section of plastic on the shell then fille the logo. Take Touch up Bondo, in the sqeze tube not the can, or modelling puddy and fill the gaps in the logo and around the ouside of the logo to the edges of the plastic. Then sand it smooth & paint. It's a matter of opinion which method gets what you want but you won't weaken the shell by doing this if that is concirn for you.

Garrett

[CaptainSlug]

I don't think they offer a wide array of colors, where Krylon does.

Duplicolor offers the following colors

NEW! OEM Style Colors
HVP104 Gloss Black
HVP105 White
HVP106 Flat Black
HVP107 Red
HVP108 Desert Sand
HVP109 Medium Gray
HVP110 Burgundy
HVP111 Charcoal Gray
HVP112 Medium Blue
HVP113 Medium Beige

Tuner Colors
HVP100 Red
HVP101 Yellow
HVP102 Blue
HVP103 Silver

I've seen other colors offered by other brands, but that covers the basic variety. What vinyl dye lacks in variety it makes up for in durability. Complicated effects and drybrushing would however require that you add a retarder, or consider mixing your own vinyl dye from a mix. I haven't bothered because I honestly just don't enjoy painting.

[slowguitarman]

To mark off what you want to paint you can use normal masking tape or use blue painters tape. Its essentially the same thing.

They aren't really the same. Regular masking tape always gives me ugly edges, but the blue stuff always leaves nice, clean edges. The blue stuff also peels off much easier than the stupid white kind.

[Predalien Ro]

This seems like a topic that should be a sticky with all the good advice being given. As for using the dremel tool, use the barrel sand paper bit instead of the tiny fine sanding wheel. I used the wheel on the maverick to get the logo off the main shell, and it put dents in it even when I was trying my best to be carful, that thing travels on it's own and then there's noting you can do about that. It gave a nice smooth surface on the cocking slide of the Maverick.

Also I have a question, I saw Forsaken Angel using somthing to protect the paint job on the moving parts of the gun, like the cocking handle on a longshot so the paint wouldn't rub off, was that a pice of felt or something else?

Edited by Predalien_Ro, 30 March 2008 - 09:03 PM.