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Ace Hardware #69 Spring In A Longshot


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#1 Trevor

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 11:35 PM

So I bought one of these beasts earlier today. I've already started making a bolt sled out of aluminum in CAD with a CNC mill. I'm thinking that I'll need to make a new trigger catch out of aluminum too. What else can I do to my Longshot to ensure that it wont explode in my hands when I put this beast in.

Also, has anyone posted any ranges of a LS with this thing in?

Thanks in advance everyone.
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#2 CaptainSlug

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 11:37 PM

The compressed length of that spring has to be short enough to let the bolt travel far enough back to get the plunger rod to engage the trigger plate.
Just replacing the sled isn't enough because it's the hardpoint on the bolt that has a higher tendency to break.
The whole mechanism is fairly flimsy.

I no longer see the point of putting so much work towards increasing the range of the Longshot since it has such abysmal accuracy. You're not likely to hit anything predictably from beyond 40 feet with it using the stock bolt.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 01 March 2008 - 11:39 PM.

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#3 Trevor

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 12:06 AM

The compressed length of that spring has to be short enough to let the bolt travel far enough back to get the plunger rod to engage the trigger plate.
Just replacing the sled isn't enough because it's the hardpoint on the bolt that has a higher tendency to break.
The whole mechanism is fairly flimsy.

I no longer see the point of putting so much work towards increasing the range of the Longshot since it has such abysmal accuracy. You're not likely to hit anything predictably from beyond 40 feet with it using the stock bolt.



I assure you, I wont be using the stock bolt, I've already started designing a new bolt and breech similar to the angel breech, and I will be using stefans. Another reason I'm doing this is because I can get credit for it in my engineering class, and I like the aesthetics of the longshot.

Edited by Trevor, 02 March 2008 - 12:16 AM.

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#4 Thom

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 01:42 AM

Do you have specs for that bolt sled? I might try machining one myself to work with an internal foregrip.
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#5 xNFx 37

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 09:13 AM

How long is this spring?
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#6 Blasphemy

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 10:15 AM

We could better help you if we knew the dimensions of the spring, they're probably on the package. Most importantly: What is the wire gauge of the spring?
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#7 AJAQ

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 01:20 PM

So I bought one of these beasts earlier today. I've already started making a bolt sled out of aluminum in CAD with a CNC mill. I'm thinking that I'll need to make a new trigger catch out of aluminum too. What else can I do to my Longshot to ensure that it wont explode in my hands when I put this beast in.

Also, has anyone posted any ranges of a LS with this thing in?

Thanks in advance everyone.

'Needs to be cut down to like 3/4 length unless this is UBER re-enforced.
If the 49# is the one I am thinking of(The one that is a huge bitch to compress?)

Yes, the trigger plate will need to be re-enforced. You will need a decent plate spring as well.

Ranges depend on darts, barrels, seal, etc.


As for further re enforcement... if you are using aluminum, if you are keeping the clip lock, and the bolt lock, you either need to re-enforce those pieces, or make sure your aluminum isn't sharp.(and is greased)

Other than that, it depends on your design.

Edited by AJAQ, 02 March 2008 - 01:23 PM.

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#8 Thom

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 01:23 PM

Aren't the clip and bolt locks extraneous?
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#9 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 12:39 AM

Will you be putting up pictures of this thing once it's finished? I was thinking of doing a steel version of this on a CNC mill and I was wondering if you could do blueprints for us. It would be nice to have my LS shoot A LOT further than it currently does. More for the sake of having a VASTLY overpowered NERF gun more than anything else, lol.
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#10 PC III

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 12:56 AM

If you want a blaster of over-powered-trigger-happy-anti-tank power, than go with a titan. Welcome to the Haven, and enjoy your stay.

Edited by P.C. III, 03 March 2008 - 12:56 AM.

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#11 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 01:05 AM

I know the Titan is overpowered, I broke my bro's nose with mine when I shot him at point-blank because he rushed me. I'm thinking with this though that smaller, higher velocity darts will be more fun than a big heavy one that goes really far.
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#12 Trevor

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 09:49 AM

Do you have specs for that bolt sled? I might try machining one myself to work with an internal foregrip.

Specs? You mean like dimensions or something?
Posted Image

How long is this spring?

4 5/8" (4.625")

We could better help you if we knew the dimensions of the spring, they're probably on the package. Most importantly: What is the wire gauge of the spring?


OD: 1 1/4" (1.25")
Free Length: 4 5/8" (4.625")
Wire Diameter: 1/8"
Total Coils: 10

'Needs to be cut down to like 3/4 length unless this is UBER re-enforced.
If the 49# is the one I am thinking of(The one that is a huge bitch to compress?)

Yes, the trigger plate will need to be re-enforced. You will need a decent plate spring as well.

Ranges depend on darts, barrels, seal, etc.


As for further re enforcement... if you are using aluminum, if you are keeping the clip lock, and the bolt lock, you either need to re-enforce those pieces, or make sure your aluminum isn't sharp.(and is greased)

Other than that, it depends on your design.

The #49 fits inside of a NF plunger tube, the #69 is about 1.5 times longer and twice as wide. I find the #49 no problem to compress, I can do it with 1 hand (although its still hard)
I've removed my clip and bolt lock, the longshot works fine without them.

Will you be putting up pictures of this thing once it's finished? I was thinking of doing a steel version of this on a CNC mill and I was wondering if you could do blueprints for us. It would be nice to have my LS shoot A LOT further than it currently does. More for the sake of having a VASTLY overpowered NERF gun more than anything else, lol.


I'll probably post a writeup, or something similar once I complete it. I'm not sure if my CAD model fits just yet, because its just a model right now, so until then I wont release the model ( I want to release something finished) I would have made it out of steel, except that costs a fuckton of money, and aluminum is cheaper, and should fit my needs.

Edited by Trevor, 03 March 2008 - 09:56 AM.

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#13 AJAQ

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 11:58 AM

Ah. One full length 49 doesn't need re-enforcement then.

for longevity, maybe, but not to operate. I have one that is a hear and a half old with a 49 in it.
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#14 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 03:05 PM

I can get this made at a place for free because I know one of the employees there, so budget is no obstacle for me. Hope you can get it done soon and I hope it works out well ^^
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#15 Trevor

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 10:48 PM

I can get this made at a place for free because I know one of the employees there, so budget is no obstacle for me. Hope you can get it done soon and I hope it works out well ^^


I can also get it done for free, because my school has a milling machine, and free aluminum (some students make rims for cars, which uses a rather large chunk of aluminum) However I have to do all of the models and crap myself, the model itself took about 2 hours to recreate, but the pain-in-the-ass-part is creating all of the cutting paths in procam. I don't really know how to use the software, so I basically have to teach myself. If anybody wants to do this part for me (for a CNC mill), then you can pm me, and we can possibly work something out.
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#16 Thom

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 11:41 PM

Specs? You mean like dimensions or something?
<image>

Is the part that extends to the back of the gun even necessary with the extra bits removed? If not, that might make it easier.
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#17 Trevor

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Posted 04 March 2008 - 09:24 AM

Specs? You mean like dimensions or something?
<image>

Is the part that extends to the back of the gun even necessary with the extra bits removed? If not, that might make it easier.


Now that I think about it. It doesn't really do anything...
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#18 Thom

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Posted 10 March 2008 - 03:07 PM

Would a polycarbonate bolt sled be sturdy enough? I'd be worried about the rigidity.
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#19 Trevor

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Posted 11 March 2008 - 08:04 AM

Would a polycarbonate bolt sled be sturdy enough? I'd be worried about the rigidity.


Even if you could manage to get a hold of some polycarbonate, and a molding machine because most places only sell it in sheets or rods, and for very expensive I might add. You'd still have to take into account that most of the tools and chemicals that we as nerfers use, (like super glue) will melt polycarbonates. So once you get past price, availability, usability, and actual functionality. It ends up costing more than steel or aluminum, and I'm not sure if it will work as well.

However, I'm not going to tell you what you can and cant do. Go for it!
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#20 General Cole

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Posted 11 March 2008 - 09:47 AM

Aluminum, although very useful, may not be rigid enough. After all, you can bend, flex, and deform aluminum with a small vice, even if it is a solid rod. My mill vice will deform 2in solid aluminum rod with just a small amount of force. It will also be a major pain to machine, even for a CNC.
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#21 Thom

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Posted 11 March 2008 - 03:00 PM

My first thought was just taking some thin steel bard, bending them to shape, welding them together, and doing whatever cutting was necessary. This would almost certainly be strong enough and would be far less wasteful of material than CNC'ing 90% of the volume away, at the cost of not being identical to the old one (which shouldn't really be a problem). It might be overkill, though, and enough heavy-duty adhesives and bolts might allow strips of poly to sub in. I'll probably just end up running the numbers.
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#22 Trevor

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 10:18 PM

My first thought was just taking some thin steel bard, bending them to shape, welding them together, and doing whatever cutting was necessary. This would almost certainly be strong enough and would be far less wasteful of material than CNC'ing 90% of the volume away, at the cost of not being identical to the old one (which shouldn't really be a problem). It might be overkill, though, and enough heavy-duty adhesives and bolts might allow strips of poly to sub in. I'll probably just end up running the numbers.



The only thing I can really say is: Take advantage of whatever materials you have, and post pics when you get done!




Question to everyone else, so assuming I reinforce the boltsled, trigger plate, and catch spring. what else can I do to the longshot to make sure it holds up? Or atleast, is there a halfway spring between the LS+BBB and an ace #69

I'll take pics of the spring, and show you guys tomorrow.
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#23 Thom

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Posted 18 March 2008 - 03:13 AM

LS + AR-15 Spring? That's what I have.
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#24 Trevor

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Posted 18 March 2008 - 10:32 AM

LS + AR-15 Spring? That's what I have.


What kind of ranges do you get? Or what are the specs of the spring?
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#25 Thom

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Posted 18 March 2008 - 10:26 PM

LS + AR-15 Spring? That's what I have.


What kind of ranges do you get? Or what are the specs of the spring?

As to the first, ask me when it's done. It's a very substantial mod and probably won't be completed until early summer. Off the record, though, I'd guess about 110' based on others' ranges and the refinements I've made.

As to the second, you can get it online for cheap, but I don't know the specs offhand (and I don't own calipers).
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