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#1 Matt31

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 09:53 AM

There is a clean hole in the side of the air tank in my AT3k. Can anybody steer me in the right direction as to how to plug it? I've tried a hot glue plug, re-enforced with PVC cement. I haven't tested that yet but I have my doubts as to how it will hold up.
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#2 Blasphemy

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 10:09 AM

I've seen some people find the right size of PVC or CPVC tubing, cut a cross-section of it and use PVC cement to glue it to the side, just like a patch.
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#3 Matt31

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 10:11 AM

Ahhhh, an interesting concept. Thanks for the help.
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#4 Dr Moose

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 10:42 AM

When you attach the piece of pvc to the airtank, attach it with plumbers goop so it will be airtight.
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#5 Scotch

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 11:46 AM

When you attach the piece of pvc to the airtank, attach it with plumbers goop so it will be airtight.


Damn, I was just about to say that. Plumbers goop holds more PSI than Hot Glue
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#6 Pineapple

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 12:23 PM

What do you mean when you say "PVC cement"?

If you're talking about the two-part primer and solvent type of cement, DON'T do it. Yet.

I think Captain Slug might have the formulation and compatibility, but I dont' know if the airtank plastic on the 3000 will fare well with solvent welding. Oh and like they said, no-no to hot glue.

What the gang said about Plumber's Goop is right on. That stuff is okay with just about every plastic, and it will hold well if you do it correctly (lots, let it glop out, then clean up the seams before reassembling.

I forget what size, but use a sleeve of thinwall (SCH 20) PVC pipe, cut to fit, and goop that sucker in place.


I'm still trying to figure how you have a hole in the SIDE of your 3000 airtank. My 1500 had it's back half (where the valve rod comes out from) cracked when my nephew pumped it about 10 times and it just hissed out air. That one couldn't be fixed with the PVC sleeve trick... although I am going to TRY (emphasis on try) to fix it with just goop. I'll document the repair, when I get around to it. I just replaced the tank with one from an AirTech 2000 and it fit nicely (except the Liquitron gauge sticks up a bit and I had to modify the 1500 to take it).


-Piney-
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#7 Matt31

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 12:51 PM

This is what I used, Piney:

Posted Image

Its holding up fine for now. As for the hole, yeah . . umm. . . I singled the thing, and glued a coupler on. But the tank was still very loose so I thought I'd throw a few 2.5" wood screws through the shell and into the plastic that comes off the top of the tank. Well, in the process my drill "slipped" :unsure: and that was it, clean little hole right in the side of the tank.

Edited by Matt31, 10 February 2008 - 12:51 PM.

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#8 CaptainSlug

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 02:41 PM

Most of the functional pneumatic parts inside air-powered nerf blasters are made from Nylon, which is not compatible with PVC Cement.
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#9 Captain

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 06:51 PM

Speaking of AT3K's, how are the stock ranges on those? My local KB toys always has a bunch of the two-packs in stock, and I was thinking of buying some.
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#10 Matt31

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 06:59 PM

Speaking of AT3K's, how are the stock ranges on those? My local KB toys always has a bunch of the two-packs in stock, and I was thinking of buying some.


Stock ranges are awful, but modded, they are decent. Singled-60-70' , Pump plugged and barrel replacement-I would guess 50-55'.
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#11 Bomberman

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 07:55 PM

I just drilled out the AR's, and stuck some cpvc in the stock barrels with a copper coupler, and plugged the pump, and I get 70' flat, and over 100' angled.
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QUOTE(silentsnipe) View Post

It's not like that. I put lube on it and its the same. Its just stuck. And when I cock it back it goes farther back then usual. Also I push as hard as I can and it wont go back in. I've tried the methods and they wont work. Also pics are up.

#12 imaseoulman

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 02:31 PM

My 1500 had it's back half (where the valve rod comes out from) cracked when my nephew pumped it about 10 times and it just hissed out air. That one couldn't be fixed with the PVC sleeve trick... although I am going to TRY (emphasis on try) to fix it with just goop. I'll document the repair, when I get around to it. I just replaced the tank with one from an AirTech 2000 and it fit nicely (except the Liquitron gauge sticks up a bit and I had to modify the 1500 to take it).


-Piney-


A good and solid method to repair the blown out back of an air tank is to use an end cap. Get an end cap that fits (maybe about 3/4") over the tank. Drill out part of the cap so that the firing pin sticks out and you can still get the tubing in. Then put the end cap over it and epoxy/goop it into place. Lately I've been using DevCon plastic weld epoxy. It's not as flexible as goop, but holds amazingly well.
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#13 sam

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 05:37 PM

I'd guess a 1" endcap would work, since SM1500 valves fit nicely in 1 1/4" PVC.
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#14 Team Slaya

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 06:16 PM

Piney, my 1500 had the same problem and I thought that I was screwed. I submerged it to find the leak, and then gooped it and let it sit for 48 hours. Came back and it held the pressure that it did before. So... go for it. :D

TS
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#15 Matt31

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 06:19 PM

Yes, goop is sounding like a good option, I just have to get my hands on some. . .
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