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#1 badger

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 01:13 AM

This...
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is my BOOMSTICK!!!

The single shot ballgun "Trigger Fire" modded to fire darts. Target's bottom of the line. You can find this online and in stores in the clearance bins. That's right, this sweet baby was made somewhere in China. Retails for about $7.00. It's got a pump action stock, orange and blue plastic, and a hair trigger. That's right. Shop more. Pay less at Target. You got that?

I figured I would paraphrase a quote from "Army of Darknes" to introduce my first real original mod that I named the Boomstick at "The Dart of War" in Maryland last month.

To start, this is what we have to work with.
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This is the Trigger Fire made by Zoom-O. It is a ballgun that has a few different traits compared to other more common ones like the Reactor. First off, it has a plunger rod that sits in an integrated plunger tube that is seperate from the ammo reservoir. The plunger rod has a 3" stroke and one hell of a beefy spring. The gun can hold 3 balls that are fired individually. Secondly, it has a trigger, which is even more unusual for a ballgun that doesn't run on batteries. This gun can't fire the balls for shit, but I had a feeling that it could do much better as a dartgun. Lastly, it is primed by pumping the body of the gun, like a shotgun.

First, I took it apart to check out the pieces.
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To open it up, you need to remove all the screws. First from the trigger assembly (amazingly, the springs don't want to fly away) then the front section. To open the front section, you will need to cut off the orange cone piece at the front of the gun. It is useless, so just trash it. Once this piece is gone, you can remove the barreland plunger tube assembly. There is a small spring in the front of the frame that held the cone piece forward. This spring is useless as well. On the front of the barrel is a red piece with the gasket that helps keepthe seal when firing balls. You can remove this as well as most of the ball chamber is going to be sawed off anyways.

In the third picture you can see how the plunger rod works. The spring sits behind the rod. Inside the rod in a little trough is a small rod with gear teeth. This interacts with a gearwheel (seen sitting in the top piece in the third picture, though upside down) that also works with the gray priming rod. When you pump the body of the gun, the priming rod pushes forward, which causes the wheel to move and to pull the plunger rod back to the catch mechanism in the trigger assembly. If you decide to do this mod, you can see what I mean. It is quite beautiful a design, in my opinion.

Now we shall make the new barrel setup, using the ball cradle/air restrictor piece that is held forward by a large spring in the front of the gun. It is the same piece that you would remove from a Reactor if you modded it to fire darts.

First off, cut off all but 1 1/4" of the front barrel.
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Then take the ball cradle/air restrictor and cut out the middle. This piece is what we are going to use to stabilize and center our new barrel as well as to help create our airtight seal between the barrel and the plunger tube section.
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This is what it will look like once you cut out the middle of it.
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Then you will need your barrel material. I always use a combination of brass and OMC's PETG for nearly all of my barrels, but you can use whatever brrel materials you prefer and alter some of the steps as you see fit, but I find that brass works best for this gun. The brass was especially useful for this mod as it will have suction loading when I am done with it. Take a 2" long piece of 21/32" brass and a rubber washer (I can't recall the actual material name at this time of night) and place the washer over the brass near one end of it. Before you do this, take a pair of pliers and bend in the one end of the brass to act as a dart stop, so that when you load a dart, it won't fall into the plunger tube, causing a jam that will require you to dismantle the gun to fix it.
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Now take the brass with the washer attached to it and insert it into the cutout cradle with the uncrimped end pointing out of the concave part of the cradle. Make sure that the waseher is flush with end of the cylindrical section at the back of the cradle and that the barrel is straight. Inject some epoxy into the front of the cradle to start to seal the barrel into place. Wipe any adhesive that seeps through the back side of the cradle from the center.
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Once it is hardened, Place some at the back of the cradle to finish sealing the barrel into the cradle, making sure none of it leaks into the barrel itself.
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Now take the barrel assembly and place it into the front of the barrel/plunger tube part and slowly inject epoxy into the gaps in the cradle, filling the space under the cradle and starting to make your perfect seal. Wipe any glue that seeps into the top of the plunger tube area. There is a rubber gasket built into the top of the plunger tube that prevents the head of the rod from slamming into the top of the tube, so you don't want any glue on this area.
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After the glue hardens, fill the rest of the open area with epoxy, finalizing your perfect artight assembly. Once it is set (wait 24 hours to be certain), now it is time to reassemble your gun.

In order of steps:

1-Place the plunger rod into the tube.
2-Place the small rod with the teeth onto the trough in the rod, ensuring that the piece is as far back as possible.
3-Place the spring into the tube and insert it into the shell. The spring sits against the frame like the recent NF.
4-Put the gray priming rod back into the frame with the guide tab in the track and the rod all the way back. The spring won't sit in place until you bring the two shell pieces back together.
5-Place the gear small side down in between the gray rod and the priming rod, ensuring that neither piece moves from its neutral position. If they do and you reassemble the gun, the plunger will not connect with the trigger catch.
6-Put the two halves of the front together, using a thin knife to hold the gray rod's spring inplace as you put it back together.
7-Put the trigger assembly back together and you are done.

Now to load it, simply place a dart in the front of the barrel and prime the gun. Be sure not to use darts that are too snug. If the dart fits just right and your seal is perfect, when you prime the gun, the motion of the plunger rod moving will suck the dart right down to the back end of the barrel with the crimped end stopping it from falling into the plunger tube. If your darts are too snug in the front of the barrel, it will be very hard to prime the gun, causing a misfire if it can catch or, more likely, when the gun slips before it is fully primed, causing the dart to shoot prematurely. Now just pull the trigger and fire away.

I still need a sling for the gun to holster it on my back (Groove's idea and a great one at that) to make it officially the Boomstick.

Ranges are about 70-80 feet flat and, if your darts don't suck, beautifully accurate.
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#2 sputnik

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 01:45 AM

Holy crap that spring is massive.
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#3 sam

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 01:51 AM

Awesome!
So the brass acts as a coupler? How big is this, what blaster (size wise) would you compare it to?
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#4 Z-man12

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 01:57 AM

You finaly finished this I see. Dang thats a big plunger and spring. Did you consider shotgunning any of these for indoor use? There seems like there is plenty of air being pushed through the barrel.
I am going to have to see about getting my self one of these.
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#5 badger

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 11:05 AM

I'm not too sure of a size comparison. At the moment, all of my guns are in containers. I would say a little longer than the LBB.
As for the brass it does act as a coupler, but I prefer for the barrels on this gun to be affixed as it can suction load. I'm sure that it can be done other ways, so I leave that up to anyone else that wants to try.

As for shotgunning it, I still have 3 more that are unopened, so I might try it out, but the opening where the air is thrust through is only about 1" in diameter. At most, you may be able to fit 3 barrels in there at once. To open that hole any larger will eliminate the built-in shock absorber at the top of the plunger tube and it will also spread out the surface area that the air impacts. You get more force through the barrel when it is forced through its small hole. The more holes you have or the larger the hole, the weaker the forces at play.

Edited by badger, 07 February 2008 - 11:21 AM.

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As Carbon once said,

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Roses are FF0000
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ALL YOUR BASE ARE BELONG TO US

#6 Pineapple

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 11:43 AM

Help me understand here...

So the handle with the trigger is what slides to prime it? You slide it forwards then back to cock it?


Fascinating. That's a design I've not seen in awhile. Anything with gears as part of the cocking has always had me leery (i.e. Sawtooth, Lanard Speedloader), but it looks simplistic and practical.


Cool, Badger! Most ballguns nowadays are either push-pull or flywheel types. A trigger fired spring powered ball blaster. Now something else for me to shop for in two weeks when I travel to the city to look for Recons.


Did you try a range test stock? With balls?



-Piney-
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<!--quoteo(post=209846:date=Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM:name=boom)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(boom @ Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM) View Post</div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
It's to bad you live in hawaii I bet there are not many wars there.Wait what am I saying<b> you live in hawaii you lucky bastard.</b>
<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

#7 badger

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 11:56 AM

Help me understand here...

So the handle with the trigger is what slides to prime it? You slide it forwards then back to cock it?


Fascinating. That's a design I've not seen in awhile. Anything with gears as part of the cocking has always had me leery (i.e. Sawtooth, Lanard Speedloader), but it looks simplistic and practical.


Cool, Badger! Most ballguns nowadays are either push-pull or flywheel types. A trigger fired spring powered ball blaster. Now something else for me to shop for in two weeks when I travel to the city to look for Recons.


Did you try a range test stock? With balls?



-Piney-

You could say that both parts slide. It just depends on which side you stabilize. I hold the trigger section still and pump the front half, just like a shotgun. Once you slide the two parts together, you seperate them and you are ready to go. You can keep pumping it after it is primed, but it will do nothing.

I tried a range test with the original balls. It got about 20-25 feet stock, which is about the average for any ballgun.

If you are unable to get your hands on the Recon or this gun, which is available at Target, K-Mart and Wal-Mart, PM me. I got my first Trigger Fire at Target and the next three online at Target.com.

Edited by badger, 07 February 2008 - 11:57 AM.

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As Carbon once said,

"The moment you can no longer see the fun in running around like a little child is the moment you begin to die."

Roses are FF0000
Violets are 0000FF

ALL YOUR BASE ARE BELONG TO US

#8 Cannonball

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 12:34 PM

Nice right up Badger. I appreciate the quote from the army of darkness greatly. You have the right to yell "Hail to the king baby" every time you get a hit with that thing. Again, nice job.
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#9 Forsaken angel24

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 01:04 PM

Good work Badgey!
You can pick up a cheap quiver over at hunting shops for like $15.

Consider it added to the directory.
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#10 keef

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 02:45 PM

I love it. I was looking for this but only found compound bows and crap. They had a supersoaker that you could hook up to a water bottle though B)

You used 17/32" I'm guessing... I used the same setup for my Splitfire and SS2.

I like how you used the rubber seal, thats a great idea!
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#11 PointBlank

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Posted 07 February 2008 - 04:33 PM

Thats sweet, thanks for the writeup.
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#12 Galaxy613

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Posted 16 August 2008 - 12:50 PM

[SARCASM]

A necro is a necro. Flame him!

[/SARCASM]

Seriously though, this should be in product awareness thread and just linked to this write up.. you aren't adding anything to the write up, but just telling people of a temporary sale that won't be there in the long run.

(I thought "Seriously though" was enough to denote sarcasm. Looks like I need to use tags for now on.)

Edited by Galaxy613, 16 August 2008 - 08:00 PM.

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#13 PREDATOR

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Posted 16 August 2008 - 03:33 PM

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Is that an Elder Srolls oblivion instruction manual?

I juse relized this is necro thread. woops Anyone who could shed some light on how good that spring is?

Edited by PREDATOR, 16 August 2008 - 03:37 PM.

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#14 badger

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Posted 16 August 2008 - 03:33 PM

A necro is a necro. Flame him!

Seriously tho, this should be in product awareness thread and just linked to this write up.. you aren't adding anything to the write up, but just telling people of a temporary sale that won't be there in the long run.

First off, you don't encourage flaming, so chill the fuck out. The other thing is, you don't necro unless you have something SIGNIFICANT to add, which he did, so, though he did resurrect an old thread, it was to the benefit of the NIC. They frown more upon people asking questions that have already been answered, saying "cool", or posting other useless data when they necro a thread.

Many people keep asking me where to find the Trigger Fire and his informing people, whether here or in the PAT, is just fine. It bumps the mod up to the front of the forums, allowing the newer members that hadn't seen it before to have a look, plus now with information on where to buy them.

Besides, the clearance sales on both the Nat Geo launchers and the Trigger Fire have been going on for quite some time. I bought mine at the beginning of the year. The only difference now is that the Trigger Fire is now 50% off, not 25% when I bought them, so it is not, by far, a temporary sale. It will end eventually, but it seems they have ALOT of leftover stock.

You do not encourage flaming. I appreciate that Bob added this little detail so others can find the launchers and build one for themselves. I've already seen two others at wars with their own personal touches and deviations to my design.
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As Carbon once said,

"The moment you can no longer see the fun in running around like a little child is the moment you begin to die."

Roses are FF0000
Violets are 0000FF

ALL YOUR BASE ARE BELONG TO US

#15 Pineapple

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Posted 16 August 2008 - 05:34 PM

A necro is a necro. Flame him!


Noob.


Thanks again, Badger. Did you ever do the range test with darts?

At 5 bucks a pop, it ought to be a good "lend out" blaster.


-Piney-
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<!--quoteo(post=209846:date=Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM:name=boom)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(boom @ Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM) View Post</div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
It's to bad you live in hawaii I bet there are not many wars there.Wait what am I saying<b> you live in hawaii you lucky bastard.</b>
<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

#16 keef

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Posted 16 August 2008 - 07:25 PM

At 5 bucks a pop, it ought to be a good "lend out" blaster.

-Piney-


Actually, even better than you think.

The only way I see to break it is to put a too powerful spring in it, or break off the barrel.
Mines been thrown, dropped, abuses, stepped on, etc... And it still works great.
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#17 Pineapple

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Posted 16 August 2008 - 10:42 PM

Hey guys - chill out a bit - even before he added those blatant "sarcasm" tags, the next words were "seriously, tho" which to me does indicate it was meant as a joke from the start. I certainly took it that way.


Noob.




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<!--quoteo(post=209846:date=Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM:name=boom)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(boom @ Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM) View Post</div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
It's to bad you live in hawaii I bet there are not many wars there.Wait what am I saying<b> you live in hawaii you lucky bastard.</b>
<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

#18 TheNerfLoki

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 12:23 PM

Nice job! Can you edit in some pictures of the finished gun?
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#19 Galaxy613

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 12:28 PM

Nice job! Can you edit in some pictures of the finished gun?


Dude, the FIRST image in this thread is a picture of the finished gun!
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#20 Nerf Bros

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Posted 21 August 2008 - 09:58 PM

Hmm...
For $6 you could get the slightly better and cooler NiteFinder.
But a well conducted mod.
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#21 One Man Clan

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Posted 21 August 2008 - 11:40 PM

This topic is from February, but your smug remark was totally worth posting here.
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I hate you.


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