- Active Posts:
- 100 (0.06 per day)
- Most Active In:
- Modifications (73 posts)
- 10-August 10
- Profile Views:
- Last Active:
- Feb 09 2015 06:28 AM
- Member Title:
- Age Unknown
- March 2
- Nerf, xbox, tae-kwon-do, Metroid
- Dallas Texas
- United States
17 Dec 2014 - 13:15
25 Jan 2014 - 23:48
19 Oct 2013 - 15:31
30 Sep 2013 - 16:56
17 Jun 2013 - 02:31
14 Jun 2013 - 18:48
10 Jun 2013 - 08:26
17 Nov 2012 - 21:56
06 Nov 2012 - 15:16
22 Aug 2012 - 09:04
Topics I've Started
07 August 2011 - 02:29 PMTHANKS TO THESE USERS WHO MADE THIS MOD POSIBLE
Most of my posts on nerfhaven have been total crap and questions. Today, i will actually benefit something to the community. I will add to the writeup as time goes on, and i remember what else i should add. in the mean time, enjoy
SOOOOOO this is my first REAL writeup...
Cheesy thought of it, kidflash built it, but i perfected it.
I have always used my NF as my primary, as it was the only gun i really liked. I wanted a primary, but i couldent really find one that fit my needs, wants, and likes. So i decided to come up with a list of things i would not go without on my primary
1.Decent Ranges: it doesnt matter how fast you can fire or reload, if you cant hit anyone at a decent range, you dont stand a chance.
2. All darts: We dont use stefans, because we have people sensative to pain, and little kids in our wars. we have tons of darts in all different types. i am not limiting myself to just one type of dart, because that leaves me at a huge disadvantage
3. compact/light: Im a runner, i rush, im on recon. whatever you wanna call it, i do most the running on my team. I cant cary around a vulcan or longshot with a raider drumb, as it counters my style of play
4. ROF/Reload time: i needed something where i can fire at a decent rate, but also need to be able to reload quickly
5: Comfort: Im wanted a comfortable shell, like the firefly, longshot, or NF. Not like a AT3K, Deploy, or SM3K.
6: Low upcost: no CO2, no batteries, air compressors, or anything i would have pay to replace the power source. Just pure manpower
in addition, i thought of things i would like on a DREAM PRIMARY
7. Semi auto: perfect right?
8: Swappable clips: quick reload in a pinch
9: built in secondary: just in case things go bad
10: efficency: i want it to be where i have to spend more time priming than playing
I dropped the ball a few months ago with this plan
it was good, but i was a little ignorant of pnumatic air systems, and blew up a few salvo tanks. TOTALLY 100% MY FAULT
After some hard thinking and testing, i finally bought the parts i needed. I will list them here later. More testing and failure, until i finally got it to work. Here is the inside:
wow. looks alot like the drawing doesnt it
I will go more in depth on using a 3 way valve and a backpressure a little later if anyone is interested. Im gonna just cover most the stuff specific to this mod first
FIrst, you wanna make room for the air tank
THIS CUT NEEDS TO BE DONE ON BOTH HALFS OF THE SHELL
then you wanna make room for the salvo tank by making a cut like this:
NOTE THIS CUT ONLY NEEDS TO BE CUT ON ONE SIDE
you can cover that hole with plexiglass if you want
So your pumps gonna go in the bottom support bar. make way for it to come out. make this cut on both sides
Your pump is gonna go here, so remove all the screws in its way like this
For the airtank i used 2" PVC pipe with 2 caps. I used the shell of a super soaker to make it look more streamlined. Glue it to the bottom half of the shell with hot glue
I did the removable turret mod. if you havent seen it before i cut this
and shortened the rod on the front thinga-majiggy and placed it like this so it can flip up and down like this
unscrew everything from the turret and screw just this part back into the rotator thingy. keep everything clear unscrewed and throw away everything shiny (if you ditched the flash like i did)
dont screw the clear part into the white part. the clear part will serve as your clip and its held in by friction and stabolized by the front orange thingy
I made a modification to the pump to make it more compact. cut, and epoxy
drill and tap your desired barb into the bottom side of your airtank too
cut the seal off the front of your plunger tube. align and glue it to your salvo tank.
and glue your salvo tank to the inside of the shell like so
i glued it to my built-in ARSCB for support. it is not necessary, but i like it
here is a picture of the hose setup:
im gonna summarize it for you people scratching your heads. the tank has only one barb, that barb then splits off into 3 directions.
1:to the pump
2:to the magstrike valve->ARSCB
3:Regulator->semi auto valve->salvo tank
if you dont know what an ARSCB is, go look up my writeup on it. the regulator makes each salvo shot efficient and consistent. The ARSCB is triggered by the magstrike valve and fires 4 darts/8 stephans in full auto. The Gun is semi auto, compact, consistant, swappable drumbs, comfortable, incredible ranges, has a built in automatic secondary, holds alot of shots, and works with all darts. it accomplishes everything on my list.
I am getting really sick of typing this writeup right now. Im gonna post this for you guys to take in, see what you guys think, add alot more later tonight. feel free to ask whatever you want, and say whatever.
31 May 2011 - 04:30 PMSo a neighbor of mine made these marshmallow guns. They put them into mass production, and now they are a huge hit. Yes, im talking about the same red and blue marshmallow blasters you see everywhere. They are close family friends, and their kids go to the same school as my little brother. They donated a few guns to the schools auction, so i bid and won a "marshmallow blaster". So after firing a few big marshmallows, i said goodbye to the warranty and the capability to shoot big marshmallows, and modified it. Im sorry Ms. (censored for confidentiality) for turning your hard work into a monster.
THIS NERF GUN IS BANNED AT ALL MY NEIGHBORHOOD NERF WARS, NOT BECAUSE OF INJURY RISK, BUT BECAUSE IT IS CONSIDERED CHEAP AND OVERPOWERED. THE DART SPREAD IS PERFECT, IT TAKES 4-6 PUMPS TO PRIME, 4 DARTS TO RELOAD, ITS A PISTOL, AND NEAR FREAKIN IMPOSSIBLE TO DODGE.
So lets look at this sucker. First take that cool sliding breech and toss it. LIGHTLY press the black dots and slide it off.
THe pump only goes halfway down the shaft, and doesn't go all the way to the check valve, as the pumps rod is too short. It is important to replace it. Unscrew the back red thing where the pump is. Pull your pump out, and cut the plus shaped rod off of the pump head as close to the pump head as you can. Do the same to the handle. Take some 1/2"pvc, cut it to the same length as your pump, and glue it to the pump head. DO NOT GLUE THE HANDLE ON YET.
plug the pump
take the red disc with the + shaped hole, and throw it in your trash or scrap bucket. Slide the red threaded coupler and a piece of pipe that fits loosely around 1/2 pvc pipe. I found 3/4" works the best. This pipe is to stabilize the pump so it doesn't do this
it should look something like this
Now you can glue the handle onto the pipe you use as pump rod
and it should look like this
cut the end of the barrel off, about 1/2" away from the black dots. DO NOT CUT PAST THE BLACK DOTS.
Glue 4 pieces of CPVC of your desired length to the front of your blaster. make sure they are centered. Due to the high air release rates, there is almost no power lost when adding 4 barrels instead of 3, so i HIGHLY recommend using 4 barrels
seal it up with hotglue or something
Sleeve that ugly mess in a piece of pipe
And here is your finished product
Go out and own some face
Q: I wanna see internal pics! WAAAAAAAAAA!
A. The way this thing is laid out, taking internal pics is near impossible, and wouldn't show how it works. Its like trying to take internal pics of a hornet tank
Q: How does the release valve work?
A: Its a giant OPV. yes, an opv. it is opened by the air pushing on it.
Q: Are you on crack? do you even know what an overpressure valve is?
A. i refuse to answer that first question. Yes, i know what an OPV is. The opv is held shut by a vertical perpendicular pin. when the trigger is pulled, nothing is holding the valve closed, so all the air rushes out instantly
Q: My head just exploded, as i didnt understand that at all. please compare it to something
A: Your friend (air pressure) is pushing to try and open a locked door (the opv). He pushes and pushes, but the deadbolt holds it shut. you suddenly turn the key (the pin connnected to the trigger). nothing is holding the door closed, and your friend comes flying in the house, and falls on his face. That is exactly how it works
Q: how is it posible to fire 4 darts with such short barrels and few pumps?
A: the air release is almost instant. when pumped 10 times it sounds like a gunshot
Q: Im gonna single it, and put a really long cpvc barrel on it
A: dont do either, caus the seal between the release valve and the barrels has more holes than swiss cheese.
Q: if it has so many holes, why is it good?
A: the air release is INSTANT, and quick, so much that the air seal makes no difference. adding longer barrels actouly reduces range, as all the air is released the instant the trigger is pulled: even faster than backpressure tanks
Q: i have another question that isnt stated above
A: post it here
hope you like it
24 May 2011 - 04:21 PMIntroduction:
Alright, so this Is something I have been working for a few weeks, but haven't mentioned. I was gonna keep it secret untill i finished, but hey, this could really help someone in the homemade contest. This is a simple working concept that I am in love with. I have looked and found nothing like it, but it may have done before. It will be a while before I finish it, but I thought I might share it with someone so they may have one of those OMG THAT'S IT! moments.
Wile this is a concept, I have done some work with it, and will upload more pictures shortly. Some of the the stuff I put in the diagrams are not homemade. I put them there because it makes it easier to understand. Yes, i realize there are some things, but more detailed diagrams will be posted as soon as I can. Yes, I realize this is a concept right now, but I will post more really soon, as I am having technical difficulties, so please don't ban me.
So let's begin. What is the hardest part of a homemade, especially clip fed ones. The damn feeding system. Anyone can make a semi auto valve system, but making a breech that will go forward, fire, then back up is just a pain in the ass. And rate of fire is limited also by the fact that the dart can only enter the breech for a fraction of the full cycle. So I've been looking into alternate breech methods, and I finally got one
A rolling breech. Imagine an angle breech, but instead of a back and forth motion, it spins. Two telescoping pieces of brass each with a breech cut in it. The inner one is Spun by a motor. When the brass lines up, the dart slides in, when they are opposite, it seals. Combine that with an electrically operated switch at the bottom that triggers a semi auto valve, and you have a auto clip fed rifle. More info comming really soon
Here are some of my pretty pictures/diagrams
Hope you like
Here is a simple mockup of the breech. All my stores are out of brass, so I made it using spare parts.
22 February 2011 - 06:04 PMI apoligize for posting yet another question thread, but I have done research and searched and can't find the answer.
What its gonna be used for:
I'm working on a primary for my brother. He LOVES shotguns. A pump action/semi auto 3-4 shot shotgun with decent range doesn't exist, and it would be extremely difficult to modify a gun to do that (as far as I'm aware). I resorted to a design similar to a couplered pistol, except it would use 1 1/4" PVC with 3-4 3" cpvc/crayola barrels inside. I will use a clippard valve and a _______ tank (backpressure/pin tank) to make it fire a blast of air on every trigger pull (however, the cpvc shell will need to be changed between shots)
Simple English question:
What would be the best air tank to fire a 3-4 round scatterblast with decent range? I would prefer backpressure (ie. salvo, hornet, etc.) But pin tanks (ie. at_k, Titan, etc.) will work too. It needs to be big enough to fire the darts with decent power, but not too big where its wasting air (like a Titan tank would)
Loading:1 1/4" couplered
Per shot: 3-4
Barrels: 3" cpvc or crayola
15 February 2011 - 08:16 PM"Why the heck did you start a new topic?" So i started a discussion over how to reduce friction on a valve, and we eventually started talking about completely different valves i was gonna need to prefect my semi auto firefly. In order to finish by big secret project, im gonna have to share it with the world.
So I know almost every nerf part inside and out, but when it comes to manufactured valves and hardware, im completely clueless. I need you people who know what you are doing *cough-captainslug-cough-angel-cough-split-cough* to help me out. Im almost certain every part i need exists, i just dont know what it is, what its called, or what its part numbers is.
Heres my pretty, colorful picture. the thin-lined little box is the part that will be revieled if the battery cover is removed. Each different hose (thick line) has a different color so you we dont get lost when they cross. If the picture doesn't make sense, read the descriptions below. (note that this is not made exactly to scale or anything like that. its just here to show what im doing)
The grey part of the stock has been removed, and replaced with the tank. only one side of the shell will be glued to the tank
(missing)=tell me what it is
(found)= i know what it is
the different valves are colored. here is the function planed for each valve:
Grey(found): Magstrike valve. Im so smart
Green(missing): a port where i can quickly connect/disconnect an extra tank if i need it, such as a backpack, or an airtank on my golfcart. A built in check valve would be nice, but if it doesnt have one built in, please list a check valve that will work with it
Red (missing): Regulator. I plan to drill a hole in the side of the shell, and poke the regulator out. I want to be able to adjust the power of it on the fly in the middle of a war. Im hoping for something similar to the switch on a RF20 (except a regulator instead of just a choke) where i can turn it to one position for high power, and another position for low power. (i do realize that if i decrease the pressure setting on a regulator, that it will not decrease the setting on the output side untill after the output side has been emptied. therefore, the pressure change, if it is a decrease, will not be applied untill the second shot)
Blue(found):3 way valve shown here http://www.youtube.c...h?v=BkC_JObJrTA
Light blue(missing): an input valve found on car tires and bike tires
Purple(found): a regulator for the ARSCB. Doom showed me a typical non relieving regulator
If you know what any of the missing valves are, tell me please
All help is appreciated