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- 16 years old
- August 8, 1997
- nerf (no shit), golf and basketball, snowboarding
- Saint Paul MN
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Topics I've Started
23 June 2013 - 07:27 AMFound this online, thought I would share.
17 January 2012 - 05:33 PMI am having a problem with the cutting on my scroll saw. Whenever I try to cut through any sort of plastic the cut seals back up with melted plastic. I have tried blades ranging from 18tpi-25tpi and all yielded the same result. I tried adjusting the speed on my scroll saw.(I have an older model that on has 2 speeds, see picture) and again got the same result. I tried putting oil on the blade and yet again same result. My question to you is what would be the problem?
My scroll saw
The cut on the left was made by my blade-runner and the cut on my right with my scroll saw.
When you break apart the bond the melted plastic has you get this
I couldn't get the camera to focus on the clear plastic so the pics are a little blurry
20 August 2011 - 02:43 PMIntro
This is not as much about the actual blaster as you can vary that to fit your wants/needs. This is a write up on how I made mine but to also get this trigger design out there as it is simple, cheap, and the parts can be bought from your local hardware store. This is rev1 so yes it has flaws but I figured I would make this write up so others can make their own version and we can collectively from what we learn by making our own combine our ideas to make the ultimate blaster.
1/4" x 3" carriage bolt
1/4-20m rubber well nut part# 83115 at Menards
Small spring(I just got this one out of my box of springs)
3/4" end cap
3/4" x 1/2" reducing bushing x2
1/2" 90 degree elbow
1" coupling x2
1" 90 degree elbow
1" x 1/2" reducing Bushing
1" x 1/2" reducing bushing female thread
1/2" male threaded adapter
1/2" x 3/4" reducing bushing
3/4" 90 Degree elbow
Pump of your choice
Depending on your pump between $14-$20
Took me about half an hour to build not including cure time.
This is how the blaster will be assembled
Put one or your 3/4" x 1/2" bushing onto your T-joint and a 1 1/2" segment of 1/2" pvc in that.
(this picture is wrong don't put that 1" x 1/2" bushing on yet)
Drill a hole as centered as possible in the 3/4" T
Next cut 2 2" segments of 3/4" pvc and assemble on one side of your 3/4" T like so.
Put another 3/4" x 1/2" bushing in the T followed by a 1 1/2" segment of 1/2" pvc followed by a 1/2" 90 degree elbow. This is where you barrel will go. I like to use a hopper setup.
This is what you should have so far.
Now we are going to put the trigger on.
Its pretty self explanatory but for all you idiots out there, Assemble your parts like shown. (there should be an O-ring between the spring and the T)
Now push this assemble into the corresponding holes and screw the bolt into the well nut.
Yes its that easy!
Just in case I filled this hole with goop.
Sorry no picture of this but you want to assemble your parts like this,
3/4" x 1/2" bushing.....in 1" coupler.....7" of 1" pvc in the other side.....1" elbow.....2" of 1" pvc.....3/4" x 1/2" female thread bushing.
All these parts need to be solvent welded together as they will be holding pressure.
Now to attach your pump to your tank if you used the same pump as I did. IF you used a different pump then use your brain and figure something out.
Take your 3/4" elbow and put a 3/4" x 1/2" bushing in one side. Then put a 1 1/2" segment of 1/2" pvc in that with a 1/2" male adapter on that.
These pieces also need to be solvent welded together.
Put some E-tape on the pump so it fits in the elbow nicely. Put a few drops of superglue on it and push it in as far as it will go.
Then put solvent weld to seal it off.
Wrap the threads of the male adapter in Teflon tape and screw it in. You end up with this.
You can now put the segment of 1/2" pvc from the trigger into the 3/4" x 1/2" bushing of the tank.
Pump it a few times to make sure it doesn't leak and you trigger works. If all works correctly you can solvent weld them together. You end up with this with your pump of choice on the bottom.
With slugs and 14" pvc barrel with 12" of nested PETG I am getting 90-100 flat with 9 pumps. You can't pump it past 10 pumps otherwise you will break the pump shaft. So I guess that is an oprv of sorts for you. rev2 will have a built in oprv and an almost semi auto system that is optional.
16 April 2011 - 05:45 PMACCIDENTALLY POSTED BEFORE I WAS DONE WITH THE WRITE UP FOR PART ONE!!!! it WILL BE UP SHORTLY.
Okay so I had a longshot sitting in my basement. It had pretty standard mods done (ar's removed, plunger head replacement, breech hole covered up) but I was not even close to satisfied. I wanted to make a this gun have lots of neat features and be a beast of a primary. We will see if i can pull a few ideas out of my ass to finish this. But onto the mods, I only have a few things done so far and am waiting for payday to buy materiel's to finish so this will come in parts. I hope to post a new part every week but who knows shit can happen.
More accessible clip removal.
The problem with the longshot for me is that I am a lefty and there is not a clip release on the left side of the blaster making changing clips very akward and slow for a lefty. This could also be done if you are a righty and just want to be able to change clips faster.
Metal rod(don't know the dimensions of mine)
Drill bit(size depends on what size your metal rod is)
Hot glue gun
Dremel with cutting wheel of something to cut metal rod with
First thing you are going to want to do is open that sucker up.
NOTE-mine was previously modded if yours is stock the internals will look different.
Next you need to gut all the internals accept for this piece.
Mark right along where the top of the shell comes up to the clip release.
Unscrew that screw.
Remove the piece from the blaster and extend the line straight across.
Mark where you want to drill your hole. This is where your metal rod will be going through.
Drill your hole.
your metal rod should fit in it nicely.
Next you are going to want to bend your rod to a 90 degree angle.
Mark it where you want to cut. It needs to go all the way through the clip release piece.
Cut it with whatever you want. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel.
Bend your rod to another 90 so it looks like so,
Next you are going to need to dremel out the spots I have marked on the shell, or wherever you rod crosses a wall in the shell.
Mine looks kinda crappy but its fine.
Mark how far down you want your new clip release to come.
Cut with your chosen method.
Fill in your clip release piece with hot glue to hold the rod int place.
This now makes it much easier to change clips. I will upload a video of it very soon.
Plunger head replacement
1.5 inch od rubber washer
1 inch od metal washer x2
Unscrew these two screws.
This is how to assemble it onto the plunger rod. you don't need the small washer I don't know why it is on there.
Should look something like this.
Lube it up and reassemble. This would be the time to take out the ar's if you are keeping the stock breech. If you like you could have a decent blaster now, I wanted more so part 3 is on the way. Shoudld be up in a week or so.
Questions? Comments? Flames?
31 January 2011 - 04:01 PMAlright so I got an Eagle eye from my dad for free and I wanted to do something with it. I was making a Pvc/cpvc breech at the time and an Idea came into my head. I got working and really this is very simple.
3.5 inches of 1/2" cpvc
15 minutes of your life
OK so lets get started. First you are going to want to pry of the priming bar. I used a claw hammer and it was very easy.
Next take out all the screws and open it up. Here is what it should look like.
Gut the internals, I chose to gut the electronics also but you can leave them if you want.
Next make a mark at least 5/8" from the back of the barrel.
Then mark off a slot big enough for your dart to fit into plus an extra half an inch or so. Cut out the slot with a dremel.
Now clean it up a bit with some sandpaper and an exact-o-knife
Next drill a hole in the shell big enough for your dremel's sanding drum to fit through. It should go on the little ridge in the front of your shell. You can kinda see it in this picture. It is to the left of the hole I drilled.
Put your plunger assembly in the gun and put the two halves together. Dremel a slot in the shell big enough for you to be able to place the dart in the old barrel.
Now take your 3.5 inches of cpvc and wrap it in e-tape till it fits nicely in the stock barrel. It should be able to slid back and forth and if you push it all the way back, cover the barrel with your hand and blow into the plunger tube you should loose no air.
Wrap the plunger head in e-tape and lube it up.
Put everything back where it goes and screw the gun back together.
Final thoughts, this was a really simple mod. I am satisfied with the range. It gets about 55-60 flat but that is not official since there is 3 and a half feet of snow on the ground. I did this by shooting down my sidewalk and counting how many posts I passed on my fence since each post is 5 feet apart. It averaged out to be about 55-60 feet with single bb darts.
Questions? Comments? Flames?