7 replies to this topic

[Flaming Hilt]

First off, SOBR-P isn't the official name, it's just temporary because I basically did a lengthwise version of GeneralPrimevil's SOBR-P, except with an At3k instead of an At2k.

The reason I used an At3k is because I was dumb enough to not double check the (can't remember what it's called at the moment) overpressure release valve (?) on it. Upon opening the gun up tonight I saw the hot glue had been purged and replaced it with 3,500 PSI Plastic Welder. Won't be coming out any time soon. Anyways, my SOBR was already finished so there was no going back to the 3k.

Of course, you're getting bored of my crap so I'll just jump to pictures. Pre-script: the dates on the pics are screwed up.

Entirety.

The gun I built in three parts: the stock, the barrel and the pneumatics.

Stock. The bump on the bottom is in case I decide to add a trigger guard later on (it'd run from there to the bottom of the pump).



The barrel, dissasembled; then on the gun, (breach) open and closed. Open you have 2" of space for loading, it's hard at first but once you get the hang of it (granted your dart isn't too big ) it's really easy.


The pneumatics without the valve. The At3k valve's rim makes it too big to fit in 1u1/4" PVC, so I had a lot of filing to do. The gun has a crack in it because I didn't file quite enough. Oops.


The final trigger assembly... sorry I know it's covered. Anyways, I now use hex keys for my triggers (even on Carbon's Clothespin Trigger) -- 35 cents people, come on -- so I ziptied and Plastic Welded the hex key to the valve pin. The zipties were just holding it in place while the Welder dried, anything that can hold 3,500PSI won't be coming off soon. You can also see the fracture from not filing the valve enough.


Range I haven't measure yet, but it goes all the way down my 45ft. hall without dropping. I'd est. at least 80-100 feet.

Everything is screwed together, even the stock, so I can change anything I want without a mess.

There's a leak somewhere that just opened up (I prolly overpumped it when testing) and I want to add two screws right where the trigger is 'cause it tilts a little when you pump it, but otherwise this is my new main which I will be showcasing at NO SPAM on Saturday.

Questions? Comments? Ideas for a name?

[sam]

So it's a recased AT3Kl with a bolt? Neat! What size PVC did you use to hold the Airtank? I need to do this with one of my Airtechs. You should add a T coupler front handle, like Piney does, on to the pump, to give it a handle and add stability. Now it just needs a neon pink paint job!

Edited by sam, 28 July 2006 - 12:03 PM.

[elf avec gun]

He will be useing it as his primary at NOSPAM tomarrow! And it is pretty powerful! I know I wouldnt wanna be hit by that thing from under 15 feet.

[Flaming Hilt]

1u1/4" is used to hold the airtank.

I don't think I'm going to add a T coupler... it works fine for me, and I guess that's what matters. I tend to have different preferences than other people, too... ie the stock may be too long for some... and on Catch, the trigger is too much of a reach for some.

I don't know about Neon Pink, but if I ever have some spare $ I will definitely be painting it.

I'm proud of how it worked at NO SPAM. As long as I had properly sized darts, it was easy to reload... otherwise, it could be a pain. I would have liked to have used it more but most of my darts were too big so I just switched to the 2k.

Still needs a name.

[sam]

I know you had problems fitting the 3k valve in the 1 1/4" pvc, do you think it would be easier with a 2k valve?

Edited by sam, 31 July 2006 - 10:37 AM.

[Flaming Hilt]

Yea, I tried a 2k valve and -- if I remember correctly -- it fit perfectly.

[taz22]

does that valve give you enough air? because it looks like its very very very small.

greats

[Flaming Hilt]

It's a 3k valve... shoots just as far as a 3k.

Which is far enough for me.