17 replies to this topic

[Flaming Hilt]

Okay ya'll, I spent some time with this and I'm rather proud of it:


(sorry it's so small, I'm new to posting images)

I took a Nite Finder, cut off the end of the barrel and did some trimming so it would fit the barrels of an At2k. Irrelevately, I also made space for a SSPB but the last two I bought at Target have leaks, so the space is empty for a while.

Ranges are with stefans.
Range (no bands): 30 ft.
Range (with bands): 50+ ft (hit the wall at the end of the hall just after starting to arch)
Accuracy: Good. The Crayola barrels probably don't help, but 9/10 times I can hit my target down the hall.
ROF: 2- sec/shot
Reload: 5 sec

Granted, it would probably be better with brass or PVC barrels but I'm still having trouble finding the proper size where I live. If anybody wants to try it themselves, go ahead.

Feedback please.

-EDIT: Ranges are now specifically for stefans-

Edited by Flaming Hilt, 19 March 2006 - 09:47 PM.

[nerfer34]

Nice idea. YOu should be able to improve thos ranges though. Did you remove the peg and restrictors/ and replace the barrel? Also th3e barrel looks like it will fall off, How is it?

[Flaming Hilt]

Yes, as you can see in the picture those are crayola barrels (not the best, I know, but the best I have for now), free of restrictors and what not. The range issue comes from the air leak in the rotator.

The barrels are very stable. When I pried out the stock barrels, it left a space the perfect size for the small end of a crayola. Add some hot glue, and...

[Sage]

Nice idea with adding the 2k in

One thing about the ranges: are they based on using Stefans or stock darts?

[Pineapple]

It'd also be nice if you could put the turret on straight...

The way it looks in the pic, you'd have to angle it up some to get it to shoot straight on. Perhaps the range issue is there. Just kidding.

But I know your intent...and the concept is quite nice. Don't stop there! Make that turret straight, and keep improving on it!



-Piney-

EDIT; Hey look, I made a Triple Torch with the same concept! Cool!

Edited by Pineapple, 19 March 2006 - 09:01 PM.

[Starbuck]

Ah, yes...

I did this a long time ago and never posted pics. Try adding 1/2" CPVC barrels to the turret. Drop the markers. Those are for art class.

[Flaming Hilt]

Ranges are based on stefans.

Yea, the problem with integrating an At2k barrel is that the spring on back is so close to the breach that I had to trim the top of the NF barrel to the thickness of a sheet of paper. Any thinner and, yes, I could push the spring farther down (end of barrels farther up) -- but I'd have to cut through the NF barrel.

It really isn't a problem, though, because you just use the top crayola for aiming, not the NF's rail.

Starbuck, I'm still working on barrel material. How much more expensive is copper than PVC? And, how well fit does the PVC have to be to the dart? I took a couple stefans to Menard's and Home Depot and the 1/2" PVC they had was either too big or too small; I didn't see any 3/4" thickwall.

(Nice triple torch!)

[sam]

For what you have done as far as mods you are getting fairly good ranges. I would suggest using 1/2" cpvc for the barrels; also you may want to replace the stock nitefinder barrel with cpvc as well. Cpvc is cheap (about $2 for 5') and works really well for springers.

Edited by sam, 22 March 2006 - 05:23 PM.

[Starbuck]

Starbuck, I'm still working on barrel material. How much more expensive is copper than PVC? And, how well fit does the PVC have to be to the dart? I took a couple stefans to Menard's and Home Depot and the 1/2" PVC they had was either too big or too small; I didn't see any 3/4" thickwall.

(Nice triple torch!)

Usually friend, copper isn't used as barrel material. I've seen some copper and used it once myself, however brass is the better suited metallic material. Just to be honest with you, I'd use 1/2" CPVC. It's cheap and plentiful. Best of luck to you.

[duce]

Starbuck, I'm still working on barrel material. How much more expensive is copper than PVC? And, how well fit does the PVC have to be to the dart? I took a couple stefans to Menard's and Home Depot and the 1/2" PVC they had was either too big or too small; I didn't see any 3/4" thickwall.

(Nice triple torch!)

Usually friend, copper isn't used as barrel material. I've seen some copper and used it once myself, however brass is the better suited metallic material. Just to be honest with you, I'd use 1/2" CPVC. It's cheap and plentiful. Best of luck to you.

Starbuck is right in this case. Copper is a good deal more loose than brass or pvc. For any spring powered blaster, use one of the latter two. I however, prefer copper for my air powered blasters. I get better ranges and it's much easier to load.

[Flaming Hilt]

CPVC. Okay -- somehow I got to thinking that was Copper PVC.
Ah, the art of being tired...

Oops.

I think I may just end up trying both brass and CPVC and seeing what works best for me.

Okay, 1/2" CPVC -- 9/16" brass, right?

...
Well, I'm still rather new to Nerfing, so thanks everyone for your patience and help.

[fobpawwor]

Great idea, a mutli-shot nf, it cant get much better than that. However, it looks like the turret is dangling a bit. Like other people said, try and straighten that up, and use some CPVC, like other people have said. Keep up the good work!

[Flaming Hilt]

Okay. To settle all of everybody's confusion with the turret, I have taken the liberty of digging up my digital camera once again -- yes, you should feel loved.

Close up of the connection between the barrels.


In order to raise the barrel angle, I need to lower the spring on the other side.

As you can see, in order to lower the spring, I would have to cut through the NF barrel. This is a risk I don't want to take.

Besides, it works fine aiming from the top crayola and not the rail. : oD
And the turret is very stable.

- - -

It's a single shot, actually, that functions like the At2k (manually rotating barrel).

CPVC is on the way. Just have to get some spare time (AHH!!! 3rd quarter finals!!!)

Thanks!

[Forsaken angel24]

This reminds me of those cigarette package warnings.


Warning
Incorrectly placing your barrels may leave them impotent and awkward to work with.

[Team Slaya]

Couldn't you just cut through the case? That's where the turret is being obstructed by the looks of it.

TS

[murakumo32]

I believe that if he cuts through the case, he'll hit the plunger, which isn't too far from the spring thing on the AT2K barrels. I would recommend cutting the spring thing instead, then using FBR/duct tape/whatever to seady the barrel. Hell, steal Falcon's Split-Tech 2K thing (the pvc end cap part or all of it) and slap it on that NF!

I'm tired, and I have a sh*tload of homework to do so please excuse me semi-craziness. Procratinating is an American thing. We are rich and lazy and the Mexicans are a poor and hard working race, it all works out. I hate that stupid law of imigration, the U.S. government can eat my foam!

[Falcon]

If he turns over the turret so the spring is underneath where the air is coming from, he can then cut away all he needs at the shell. He may not even have to...

[Flaming Hilt]

Already cut through the case.

The thing I don't think people are getting is: look at the barrel attachment on an At2k. See how thin that coupler is from the trigger mech to the barrels?

Okay, now look at a NF's. It is at least twice as big. So, even if you manage to stuff the barrels in there -- like I did -- you still have to get the rest of the NF barrel out of the way. If you don't, then you end up with what I have (if you do, you cut through the barrel).

If you still don't understand, then make it yourself.