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1105 Rounds

Review and alternate assembly method

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#1 SpectreX

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Posted 18 February 2006 - 06:30 PM

Well if you've looked around these boards much, you've probably run into comments refering to the 1105 "Matchstick" round. This method of dart creation was thought of by Matchstick_Man, and he has a very nice write-up of how to create these rounds on his own site. Other than random comments, I hadn't really heard much about other people trying or using these so I decided to try for myself.

For my first attempt I followed the directions to the letter, and here was my first 1105:

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(I dubbed it the "1105i" for Ice round so the name fit my color selection.)

My impressions of the dartsmithing process for the 1105 is that it is much more time consuming, because you have to tend to it for around 2 hours while you're doing the dipping, and then it's a 4 hour drying period. However, it is much easier than standard stefan making because there is no hole burning or hot glue involved. It's simply preparing your FBR and then dipping it into the Plastidip. Of course the question then becomes, "Are they any good?".

In my opinion, the answer is a resounding yes. For testing my new darts I grabbed one of my stock Nite Finders and took out the air restrictors. The only downside of 1105 rounds is that they're designed to be used in stock(air restrictors removed) barrels, or at the very least stock sized barrels. This makes them perfect for people that are less comfortable with modding and don't want to do the barrel replacement necessary to get the most out of stefans, because 1105's work very good in stock barrels and they're easy to make.

Of course with that it sounds like I'm saying they're a "newbie" dart. This is not the case. These darts perform with amazing accuracy and distance. I got comparable distances with my 1105i and a stefan in the same NF, so you're not sacrificing any performance with 1105 rounds over standard stefans. The other bonus is that the plastidip tips are very durable and make perfect domes(generally) if you allow the plastidip to dry without messing with it.

Overall I'd highly recommend making some 1105's for yourself. They're easy to mass produce, have great performance, and they'll last longer than stock darts or stefans.


Ok, if you survived all that talking, I'm going to get into some pictures with my "alternate assembly method." The only problem I found with my 1105 rounds was that I wasn't getting the FBR straight enough, and because the domes are so perfect along with less weight in the tip, the darts will follow the direction your darts are curved in if you don't have them very straight. I have made good batches of 1105 rounds using FBR, but I was thinking, "why not just retip stock darts?" I tried it, and it turned out perfectly. Here's a brief guide to preparing stock darts to be dipped.

First, you want to gently pull the rubber tip off the foam:
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Then trim the rubber down so just the part that sticks into the dart is left, and push that piece back into the dart.
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From there just follow Matchstick_Man's dipping instructions and you'll end up with this(this one was made from a sonic micro dart):
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The advantage of converting stock darts is that they'll work in guns with the pegs still in, and also the foam is more durable/straighter.

Hopefully more people will try to make their own 1105 rounds. I think Matchstick_Man really came up with a effective dartsmithing method. Here's the original 1105 topic.

Edited by SpectreX, 18 February 2006 - 06:31 PM.

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#2 SG Pilot

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Posted 18 February 2006 - 11:03 PM

So these matchstick darts do not require metal fishing weights or BBs? Very nice! I'll look into it :lol:
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#3 SpectreX

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Posted 18 February 2006 - 11:08 PM

Nope, there is no additional weighting required. The Plastidip gives the tip enough weight to make the dart fly properly.
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#4 Denaeron 12

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 10:49 AM

I'm assuming you straightened your darts in the dryer? If so, for how long? I tried to make a few, but they corkscrew like crazy as soon as they leave the barrel.
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#5 SG Pilot

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 12:20 PM

It also seems like these darts would shoot really well too because they have a better aerodynamic shape than other darts.

Edited by SG Pilot, 19 February 2006 - 12:21 PM.

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#6 Denaeron 12

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 12:37 PM

They do, from the few that I've made.

Hmm... I think that I'll be converting a few of my crappier stock darts soon. <runs to get darts>

Edited by Denaeron_12, 19 February 2006 - 12:39 PM.

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#7 Ronster

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 01:05 PM

Looking great!
Keep up the good work. :w00t:
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#8 SpectreX

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 02:52 PM

I'm assuming you straightened your darts in the dryer? If so, for how long? I tried to make a few, but they corkscrew like crazy as soon as they leave the barrel.

Yeah, I personally haven't had much success with the dryer method. I tried it, but no matter how long my FBR was in the dryer they wouldn't get straight enough for my liking. What I do is cut my FBR into reasonable sections (roughly 8' for me, but whatever works for you), and then tape it down to the floor. After that I take a hair dryer and go up and down the FBR with the dryer on high and just short "strokes" over the FBR. Once I've gone all the way down the length of the FBR, I pull the tape up, flip the FBR over and repeat the process. I've found that this method is fast and works very effectively.

From Matchstick_Man's pictures it seems that the dryer method is effective for some people, but really it's use the method that works for you.

Edited by SpectreX, 19 February 2006 - 02:53 PM.

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#9 davidbowie

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 02:54 PM

You said you used stock darts because they were straighter?

The problem with stock darts is the hole in the middle.

What if you were to fill the hole with expanding foam?

Would anyone be willing to experiment with this, since I have no stock darts?
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#10 SpectreX

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 03:18 PM

Actually, the hole in the middle doesn't seem to adversely affect the performance. If anything I think converted stock darts work better than my FBR 1105's. If I shoot FBR 1105 rounds from about 3' away at a wall, they fly hard out of the barrel, but they die when they hit the wall and just fall. Doing the same experiment with a converted stock dart, the dart hits the wall and bounces almost straight back to the gun. This is partially due to the different consistencies of the foam, but also the stock darts seem to have more power. If you read the dartsmithing guide, they actually have the instructions for putting the holes in your stefans, so I don't think holes are necessarily a bad thing.

For reference, the tests I just talked about where done with this gun.

Edited by SpectreX, 19 February 2006 - 03:20 PM.

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#11 Mattf

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 03:53 PM

I think I'll pick me up some of that dip..

About the hole in the middle thing..

I think it actually might help with performance. I noticed that my stefans with holes versus the ones without worked much better. They got more power and might have flown a bit better.

It might be a good idea to add rear holes to these darts, even if you have to get out the glue gun. Anyone have a good way of melting those holes in?
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#12 Denaeron 12

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 05:40 PM

It might be a good idea to add rear holes to these darts, even if you have to get out the glue gun. Anyone have a good way of melting those holes in?

A glue gun. B)

Edited by Denaeron_12, 19 February 2006 - 05:41 PM.

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#13 Mattf

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 06:30 PM

A glue gun. B)

Ha. You laugh, but I'm having serious problems melting straight centered holes into the back of my darts. I'd come up with some sort of a template if I had a concept for how to put my glue gun into it...
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#14 SpectreX

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 06:43 PM

If you got a metal washer that was the right size you could place that on the back of the dart and use it as a guide for the glue gun. The only trick would be getting one the right size, and then to be sure to do it quickly, because if you heat up the washer with the glue gun then the whole dart will melt.

Another melting idea would be if you bought some small diameter metal rod. Then mark off how deep you want your hole to be. All you'd have to do at point would be to use a propane torch, or some other method of heating up the rod so then it could be used to melt the hole into the dart, using the mark you made as a guide to know how deep to go.
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#15 Mattf

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 06:56 PM

There you go.. Along those lines. now... What if I used .5" CPVC or other to hold the dart, and then mounted a thick nail or something in a piece of pipe attached to a coupler or something...

Or use wood to make some sort of a template...
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#16 Carbon

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 07:11 PM

A nail would only tear a slit into the dart. Use some small diameter K&S, and sharpen one end with a file, and then twist down into the foam. Pull out the core with a needlenose pliers.
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#17 Denaeron 12

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 08:14 PM

Using a glue gun accurately is hard, just make a LOT of darts for practice. Also, use a low-heat one, it's easier and does less accidental damage.
The other ideas just sound too complex to me.
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#18 Mattf

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Posted 20 February 2006 - 11:32 AM

A nail would only tear a slit into the dart. Use some small diameter K&S, and sharpen one end with a file, and then twist down into the foam. Pull out the core with a needlenose pliers.

I ment a hot nail...

What's K&S?
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#19 Carbon

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Posted 20 February 2006 - 12:11 PM

What's K&S?

K&S Brass, the stuff that barrels are typically made out of.
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#20 Mattf

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Posted 20 February 2006 - 05:47 PM

Ahh.

I tried making my first batch of matchsticks today, and after the first dip, all is going smoothly. I really like this product, and found it for only $3.27 at Home Depot. I don't know if that's their mistake or all the other places are overcharging.. I called around and found prices ranging from $6 to $11 for the same can.

Problem is they only had black and red.. If I go for a green and black type thing, I'd like to try and mix yellow and blue and get it. I'll have to dig around.

The comany says on their industrial page that they do special colors and stuff, but I'm sure that'd cost a nice bit..

Also, I found it interesting that I can get a 50 gallon drum of Plasti-dip.

hanging the darts upside down seems to help get the drip centered.
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#21 Jikman

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 11:59 PM

My friends and I RECENTLY did the matchstick darts.

The first batch was ok. The problem with it was definitely the accuracy. They spin like bullets coming out of a Civil War unrifled musket.

I found a couple factors that might be the cause of it:

1) Darts themselves are not absolutely straight.
2) The plastic head is not uniformaly distributed.

There was one dart that I had which the plastic part went a little far down towards the rear. This dart had a MUCH BETTER accuracy, but reduced speed compare to the other ones. I believe that is due to the shift of the center of gravity from the far front to slightly more towards the middle.

My quest right now is to find the complete balance between speed and accuracy. I am thinking of leaving the darts right-side up after the first dip, and the second and third upside down.

However, I still haven't been able to figure out why my first batch had un-uniformed plastic heads :/

Edited by Jikman, 23 February 2006 - 12:00 AM.

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#22 SpectreX

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 08:19 AM

I mount mine on a rack similar to the board with nails that Matchstick_Man has in his write up, so they are right side up after each dipping and they come out with nice tips.

Another thing that I've found helps is take your time about doing the dipping, and when you pull the dart out of the dip, tip the dart as necessary to get the drop of extra plastidip in the center of the tip, so it spreads out from there. That helps with getting even tips.
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#23 Mattf

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Posted 23 February 2006 - 12:05 PM

I found that the farther the plasti dip went up the dart, the worse it worked. I big glob at the tip seemed to work best, even better was a plasti dip coated stefan. Normal matchsticks don't seem to have enough weight for me at least...
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#24 lilsniper

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 01:54 AM

These matchsticks have been extremely helpful. I can make hundreds of these in a day. They also save alot of money since you just need one can of plasti-dip, and not having to buy a glue-gun and a whole bunch of weights. Mattf, to make your matchsticks have more weight, I suggest putting more coats of the plasti-dip on. I have realized that the more coats, the heavier. I seem to put 4 coats on, waiting 30 min between each coat (as directed on the original matchstick website). They work great for me. :)
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#25 Spider-Waffle

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 05:58 AM

Is the plastic dip very impact absorbent? How does it compare to a hot glue tip? I'd like to make a dart with more weight than usual and a very absorbing tip, like an inch of compression.
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