8 replies to this topic

[Funky Mutha Facko]

Read the entire thread before doing this modification. This post will be updated when new information is found.

Lets start!
Break down your blaster following Shadow the HellJumper's tutorial. You will also need to remove the trigger and the plate at the bottom near the priming handle. Push up on the black rubber piece from inside the plunger tube and it will pop free. Here it is all taken apart.


If you examine the barrels you will see only a very small part of it actually grips the dart. The dart on the left is where it would stop if you dropped it into the barrel, and on the right is if you pushed it all the way in.



Cut the trigger guard free from the front barrel and score the plastic above the trigger where it meets the blaster so it will tear more easily. Then just cut the barrels off as shown.



Clean up the cut area so you have a nice even surface.



Next, cut three barrels of equal length. I chose a length that would hold clip system darts completely inside the barrel. I can't remember what the barrels are made of, but they have a great fit on stock darts and has the same od as cpvc.



Carefully glue your barrels to the openings where the old ones used to be. I glued the barrels on using multiple layers of superglue, cured with baking soda. I only glued them partially, then added the front spacer, and then went back and really stuck them in place with a few more layers of superglue. Using baking soda to cure superglue kicks ass. If you have never tried it, you really should.

Here are a few shots of the final product.





Make sure to lubricate the plunger tube, plunger head, and the black rubber piece that connects the pt to the air restrictor housing.

EDIT: My lower barrel kept getting awful ranges due to a rubber disk that sits on top of the white part in the air restrictor setup. The rubber part wouldn't move back with the white part and get stuck half way. Then when the barrel was fired the rubber part would close off the barrel prematurely.

Clean the white part and the back of the rubber part with a little alcohol on a q-tip and let dry. Then VERY CAREFULLY add a very small dot of glue between them and allow the spring to push them together. This made all inconsistencies in ranges stop.

As far as ranges go.... sadly it seems to be getting almost the same ranges as a stock triad. I may try out some different barrel materials or lenghts on my next triad rebarrel. At least this mod made this a much more reliable blaster by removing the chance of darts slipping once loaded.

Hope to see somebody take this and really show me up by making it work. The possibility for better ranges is there, we just need to get there.

Edited by Funky Mutha Facko, 03 January 2013 - 07:13 PM.

[therealnerfjunkies]

Are those air restrict-ors still inside the barrels?

[abowden]

I think the OMW vulcan spring works in that.

[2TAGS]

First. That looks amazing
Second I bet either the grease is too thick , or not the correct grease and the o-ring is swollen not allowing proper movement.

[ShaNayNay]

Nice try, I see a lot of potential in this, and will have to try curing super glue with baking soda. Hopefully you can work out the kinks and get to that desired 60-75 ft. mark.

[Mully]

Superglue...with baking soda?
That sounds awesome, I'll need to try that sometime.
Anyway, excellent mod, very clean.
Also, the reason it may be firing strangely is because of the ar dart-selector setup.
The ar is probably fully decompressed, while the dart is still in the barrel.
Have you tested what darts work best? It may be how long the're in the tube after the decompression.
Good luck, hope this helps,

Mully

[pop tart]

Nice. You just used the stock orange plastic thing for a spacer, right? Does one barrel fire farther than the others?

[Funky Mutha Facko]

Are those air restrict-ors still inside the barrels?

Yes, this is probably the first barrel replacement ever to keep the air restrictors in place. I did remove the pegs though.

I think the OMW vulcan spring works in that.

I heard that as well, on NM&R. I plan on ordering both the 5kg and 6kg vulcan springs to test out.

Also, the reason it may be firing strangely is because of the ar dart-selector setup.
The ar is probably fully decompressed, while the dart is still in the barrel.
Have you tested what darts work best? It may be how long the're in the tube after the decompression.
Good luck, hope this helps,

Mully

That had crossed my mind, but I figured that the stock barrels would be even worse if that was the case. I found the culprit.... keep reading.

Nice. You just used the stock orange plastic thing for a spacer, right? Does one barrel fire farther than the others?

The orange plastic piece on the front is unmodified except that I cut it free from the trigger guard.

When testing it last night it seemed all over the place, but today it was more consistent. This may be due to dart size.It seems to prefer a slightly loose dart fit. If I was to do it all over again I'd use 17/32 brass or petg, but these barrels may be better after the spring is upgraded.

I have found the problem with barrel inconsistencies. Looking into the opening of the ar valve assembly I saw a new component to the "air restrictor", a rubber piece that floats on the white pegs. This piece looks like it was designed to sit inside the white part to make a better seal when no dart is inserted. This rubber part is not attached to the white piece and sometimes gets stuck in sideways. And when you fire that barrel with that piece floating in the path of the air it gets pushed up and closes the airway of that barrel. I will get pictures when I get it open.

The solution to this problem will be simply to glue the rubber to the white ar valve part. To do that I will need a way to get into the valve assembly without destroying it. There appear to be two tabs holding it together, but I can't get it to budge.

Extra Info: The top two barrels were shooting near 75ft with darts that were cold and had shrunk a bit from being outdoors today. I expect that after the valves are fixed this blaster will rock slug darts only. The next one will be sporting some petg/brass barrels, and work great with stock darts. The original post will be updated when the I have a final product that deserves a spot in the modification directory.

Oh, and thank for your ideas and compliments. I look forward to seeing somebody else take a stab at it. Or even better…… beat me to re-barreling a RoughCut 2x4.