[16:05] <Ice9> Why didn't you go tape a single barrel in an Expand-a-Blast and go Nerf in 2003?
[16:06] <Crankymonky> Because then I'd be using my xbow, noob
[16:06] <Ice9> Beaver, you could make a 3B mod where it was just you jerking off into the gun and it would still a.) be as good as at least half the mods on NH and b.) never be read, by anyone.
[16:06] <Crankymonky> I wouldn't read it, but I'd watch it
There are a lot of good 3B writeups on the NIC: Rork's Big BAMF Bow, Zorn's complete overhaul, Blacksunshine's Azulsoli, to offer a very incomplete list. They are all well and good, and are more ambitious than the writeup I present here. But they are all too complicated for someone who is new to modding. And more importantly, I think it is a waste of time to put so much work into what is, at it's core, a fundamentally mediocre blaster. The 3B's performance will always be mid-tier - it's air volume output is less than a quarter of a +bow. I treat the Big Bad Bow as it should be treated: a "my first mod" blaster. It is easy to take apart, has big pieces, and the mechanism is fault tolerant to the fumbling hands of virgin modders. More importantly, it can achieve the century mark (100ft ranges) with rudimentary mods, making it functional for wars.
I've modded about a dozen 3Bs over the years, and I used to make them with fancy internal PVC couplers, reinforcements everywhere, big fucking springs, washer plunger heads, etc. I did some chronograph tests with my 3Bs this afternoon, and am now of the opinion that fancy mods are a complete waste of time. These blasters max out at about 190fps, and it isn't really possible to push them any harder without expanding the volume plunger tube. So... fuck it, make them simple.
Here's everything you need:
* Optional, but recommended
- Power drill
- Hacksaw or rotary tool (dremel)
* Pipe cutter (you can also use a hacksaw, but a pipe cutter is preferable)
- Hot glue gun (high-temp)
- 1/2" CPVC
- 1/2" CPVC coupler
* k25 Spring
* Silicone grease (helps with the seal)
A note on the spring: I highly recommend using a k25. I used Ace #49, k26 and Handyman #9713 for 3Bs in the past, but I have found that they don't increase chrono readings by an appreciable amount (maybe 10fps). If you have an original hyperfire 3B you can use the stock spring, but the red 3Bs are not usable without a spring replacement. Cut the spring down to size using a dremel or a hacksaw. It is best to cut it slightly long, as the spring will shrink with use.
Open it up. Keep a plate handy to hold the screws and pegs. It is very easy to lose the springs on the pegs - keep track of them! It is not necessary to unscrew the back half of the blaster. Simply pull off the plunger head, then slide off the plunger head plate and stock spring.
Take out the white piece, and yank off the air restrictor. The spring holding it together will tear off easily. Run a 7/16" drill bit through the center of the air restrictor.
Cut off the front post of the blaster using a dremel or a hacksaw. If you can, sand down the front of the orange piece. If this section is not flat, the coupler may end up crooked. Assemble a stub of CPVC and a coupler, and try to get the length of the stub to sit against the front of the white air restrictor piece when you insert it. The CPVC coupler will sit on the outside of the front orange piece, and the CPVC stub will run back into the plunger tube, providing support as well as a clear path for the air.
Fill with hot glue. Note the orientation of the white piece: the flanges stick backwards into the plunger tube. Be sure to apply hot glue onto the mating surface between the CPVC coupler and the CPVC stub, as well as applying liberally around the edge of the CPVC coupler and orange piece. Hot glue is very strong if you use a shit-ton of it. When you're done, throw it in the freezer for a while to cool it down faster.
At this point, you might want to consider reinforcing the plunger head ring. Check out Coop's Bbb Reinforcement writeup for a very detailed explanation of how to do that. If you use a very strong spring, reinforcement is a must. If you're using a k25, you can probably get away without it.
Once the hot glue blob is cool, put the plunger assembly back together. Wrap a couple layers of duct tape around it, making sure to keep them pressed together. The duct tape isn't there to provide any sort of seal or reinforcement. Rather, it is there to provide enough friction that the front orange piece won't spin around when using the blaster. If you don't secure this section, it becomes annoyingly difficult to twist off your speedloader.
Screw everything back together. Use a 10-12" speedloader - whatever seems to work best. You also want a dart/barrel fit that is looser than what would be optimal in a +bow or a SNAP. As you might have noticed below, you can also use this procedure with a PVC coupler instead of CPVC (I prefer it).
As I stated earlier, these are capable of shooting 190fps and breaking the 100ft mark with slugs. For reference, +bows shoot between 220-250fps, and shoot about 130ft with slugs. You will be at a disadvantage against top-tier blasters, but still competitive.
This post has been edited by Daniel Beaver: 01 September 2013 - 07:59 PM