NerfHaven: SGN-8T : Modular PVC Turret Design! - NerfHaven

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SGN-8T : Modular PVC Turret Design! Build Guide!

#1 User is offline   SgNerf 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 04:56 AM

This was a side project that i worked on back in 2010, i completed almost 90% of it, but ended up shelving the parts 'cos i shifted my focus onto other modding projects.

Recently, i've been modding a few blasters which came in single barrel designs, they have great performance but with all the new blasters available nowadays with much higher ammo capacity and RoF, single barrel blasters tend to be at a slight disadvantage in Nerf games, so i resumed working on modular PVC turret designs to further improve the effectiveness of those single barrel blasters.

Some modders may have also seen the excellent 8-shot turrets made by SorrowX in this forum, he used a 3D printer to create his turret parts and the result is nicely made parts... though unfortunately the parts creation process itself is largely inaccessible to most of us modders.

My modular turret design aims to achieve a similar goal, except that it does not require a 3D printer, just PVC pipes and epoxy glue. :)

Here is the process...

Step 1:

These are the basic materials and tools that you'll need.

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- 13mm / 16mm / 20mm SingaPlastics PVC Pipes (Thinwall Versions)
- 1/2" PETG Tubes (.528" ID / .572" OD)
- 2-Part Epoxy Glue (I use Selleys Super Strong Epoxy Glue)
- Pipe Cutter

Note that all the pipes and tubes i use are able to nest within each other. This turret design is built around those material specifications.

Its also possible to make this turret with non-nesting pipes and tubes too, you'll just have to adapt the parts to fit and align with each other.


Step 2:

We will start with the barrel spacers first.

For each barrel spacer, cut 8 x 1cm length 13mm PVC pipe and 1 x 1cm length 20mm PVC pipe. Ensure that the cuts are even and matching, avoid making angled or uneven cuts.

Use the pipe cutter's reaming tool or a hobby knife to trim off any sharp bits sticking out, so that the barrel spacer ports have a smooth surface.

Position the smaller pipe rings in a balanced circle around the central large pipe ring, then fill the space in between with epoxy glue. Constantly make sure that the parts are all aligned properly.

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I did the gluing process in stages. The glue is applied in successive layers, each time the glue is properly cured for a few hours before the next layer is applied. After 3-4 layers, the space will be filled in nicely and forms a very tough bond between the parts.

Do this twice to create 2 x barrel spacers.


Step 3:

Next will be the PETG barrel assembly.

In my example, i use 1ft length barrels.

Cut 8 x 1ft PETG tubes and slot them into the barrel spacers, check that they are all aligned.

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Do NOT glue the barrels in yet! We still need to mount the barrels onto the main turret assembly later.


Step 4:

This is the main component of the turret system, which comprises of the connection and turret rotation points.

Cut 1 x 4.5cm length 16mm PVC pipe, 1 x 2cm length 20mm PVC pipe and 1 x 2cm length 16mm PVC pipe.

Epoxy glue them together vertically, make sure they are aligned with the barrel spacer positions.

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Step 5:

Build up the rest of the turret fitment parts.

Note that i design my turret connection point to connect to 20mm pipe couplers which i use in all my modded blasters, if you use other kinds of couplers, you'll have to adjust accordingly.

Cut 1 x 2cm length 20mm PVC pipe (as the connection point), 1 x 4.5cm length 13mm PVC pipe (to slot into the main nozzle to reduce deadspace), 1 x 5cm length 16mm PVC pipe (as the barrel spacer holder and rotation point) and 1 x 1cm length 13mm PVC pipe (as a base for the bottom turret "barrel stopper", explained later).

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Epoxy glue everything in.


Step 6:

Prepare the turret system.

Cut out a suitable sized ring of foam padding and attach it on the top nozzle for the turret seal, put a rubber o-ring around the middle rotation point (i used a Nerf Stampede o-ring, apply grease to it so that the rotation is smooth) and stack some foam inside the bottom section along with a dome shaped stopper (i used a plastic button from a coat).

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The dome shaped part at the bottom acts as a "barrel stopper", when the turret turns, the stopper will be pushed back and compress the foam behind, then when the next barrel is in position, the stopper pops back forward and locks the barrel in place.

My earlier designs used a toothed clutch system, but i found that too troublesome to make (alot of tedious precision cutting of the PVC sections needed), and they were not really required since there isn't an integrated auto-rotation mechanism anyways.... the system just required something simple to hold the barrels in place.


Step 7:

Connect the turret system to the barrel assembly.

I used 1 x 1cm length 16mm PVC pipe as a fastening collar to secure both components together, bolted on with 2 x machine screws. This also facilitates easy changing of parts if required.

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The fit of the fastening collar is very important, make sure it secures the parts tightly (but still allowing smooth rotation with the o-ring), this keeps the barrel assembly constantly level with the air exit nozzle at the top section. This is essential to achieve 100% turret air-seal.

The barrels can now be glued in permanently if you wish... but in my case i leave them secured by friction fit, i've test fired hundreds of shots and they all still stay in position (just adding an extra layer of tape on the looser barrels did the trick), so i can also have the option to change the barrels anytime if needed.

Every barrel has been tested with 100% turret air-seal, the plunger stops mid-way when the barrel is blocked and it can even vacuum load foam darts too. :)


Completed SGN-8T : Modular PVC Turret!

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This post has been edited by SgNerf: 21 August 2011 - 12:00 PM

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#2 User is offline   SgNerf 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 04:59 AM

Here is an example of the Modular PVC Turret fitted on a modded PAS with a 20mm coupler connection... i call it PAS-8T.

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Rear loading ammo slots, 3 on each side = 6 rear loading slots in total.

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The turret can be easily swapped between blasters with compatible coupler connections. :)
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#3 User is offline   SgNerf 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 05:01 AM

Demo Video!


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#4 User is offline   andtheherois 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 05:17 AM

Of course just as I was about to go to the hardware store you post up something awesome. This is really great and I love the simple design. I'll have to make a list before I head off for a US conversion.

I've been trying to build something like this out of a DTB turret but I couldn't get it to work. I never would have though of just doing something this easy.

Have you tried spring loading the stopper?

This post has been edited by andtheherois: 21 August 2011 - 05:20 AM

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#5 User is offline   SgNerf 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 05:50 AM

View Postandtheherois, on 21 August 2011 - 05:17 AM, said:

Have you tried spring loading the stopper?

Yup, i've tested the barrel stopper with a spring behind it too... the foam "spring" is just a simple alternative for those modders who don't have access to suitable sized coil springs, 'cos i've found that it also works just as well in place of a spring .

I was going for the simplest possible method of construction using the least amount of materials. :)
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#6 User is offline   thedom21 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 06:29 AM

That stopper Idea s genius....I love it! I may build once myself but make the spacers out of polycarbonate so I don't have to glue all that together.

Edit: Woot 300th post!

This post has been edited by thedom21: 21 August 2011 - 06:30 AM

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#7 User is offline   blitz 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 08:02 AM

This is really cool, seems pretty easy to make too. Cool PAS by the way.
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#8 User is offline   Curly 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 08:10 AM

Hot damn, no polycarb! *sounds of shredding paper* Well that makes my designs obsolete! Does it always seal 100% or if shaken will it leak? I figure it would be a good idea to bring this up:

View PostDoom, on 31 January 2008 - 07:05 AM, said:

Another thing I would suggest would be flipping the turret upside down. This might seem pointless at first, but you want the weight of the barrels to help the seal more than help break the seal. Putting the coupler on the bottom will reduce the area that is not in contact with whatever sealing face you are using due to the weight of the barrels. I tested mine with the coupler on bottom.

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#9 User is offline   Nerfomania 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 09:13 AM

This looks incredibly nice.

QUICK SOMEBODY AMERICANIZE IT!

Anyways good work once again SgNerf.
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#10 User is offline   thedom21 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 09:47 AM

View Post_Nerfomania_, on 21 August 2011 - 09:13 AM, said:

This looks incredibly nice.

QUICK SOMEBODY AMERICANIZE IT!

Anyways good work once again SgNerf.

I am working on it. I am good at Americanizing stuff.
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#11 User is offline   VelveetaAvenger 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 10:33 AM

View PostCurly, on 21 August 2011 - 08:10 AM, said:

I figure it would be a good idea to bring this up:


I'm not sure what turret that quote is about (firefly turret maybe?), but with the wide pipe it's rotating around and the lightness of petg barrels it shouldn't have any problems. The bottom "barrel stopper" is helping brace it up too.

Firefly turrets are a lot more finicky because the screw holding them down is tiny, so any amount of weight will cause it to angle down.
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#12 User is offline   Curly 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 10:45 AM

View PostVelveetaAvenger, on 21 August 2011 - 10:33 AM, said:

I'm not sure what turret that quote is about (firefly turret maybe?), but with the wide pipe it's rotating around and the lightness of petg barrels it shouldn't have any problems. The bottom "barrel stopper" is helping brace it up too.


Doom made a similar turret a few years ago with polycarb and similar stuff. When the turret is upside down the weight of the barrels holds the firing barrel in place. When attached normally, the weight tries to break the seal. If your turret is having issues sealing then sometimes having it upside down is a good idea.
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#13 User is offline   Zorns Lemma 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 11:21 AM

Adding a spring onto the center pivot would solve almost any unforeseen seal issues unless you are making your barrels out of SCH80.

@SGNerf: First, I love the simplicity of this design! Second, what is the purpose of the o-ring? To just seal gaps and act as a rotation point? Would just using pipes that fit nicely be an alternative?

This post has been edited by Zorn's Lemma: 21 August 2011 - 11:26 AM

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#14 User is offline   SgNerf 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 11:34 AM

View PostCurly, on 21 August 2011 - 10:45 AM, said:

Doom made a similar turret a few years ago with polycarb and similar stuff. When the turret is upside down the weight of the barrels holds the firing barrel in place. When attached normally, the weight tries to break the seal. If your turret is having issues sealing then sometimes having it upside down is a good idea.

Interestingly, thats one of the reasons why i didn't use polycarbonate as the spacers for the barrels, 'cos the extra weight puts additional stress on the overall structure and causes the barrels to sag.

With just thinwall PVC rings and PETG tubes, the entire barrel assembly is very lightweight.... all in less than 90 grams.

For this particular turret design, the PVC fastening collar that holds the barrel assembly to the turret system is actually secured tightly enough that the barrel assembly is kept constantly level with the top air exit nozzle on its own, yet it can still rotate smoothly as the o-ring provides the rotation contact and spacing support. There is no loose fit for air to leak out 'cos the barrel assembly does not wobble at all. :)

This post has been edited by SgNerf: 23 August 2011 - 12:00 AM

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#15 User is offline   SgNerf 

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 11:50 AM

View PostZorn, on 21 August 2011 - 11:21 AM, said:

Adding a spring onto the center pivot would solve almost any unforeseen seal issues unless you are making your barrels out of SCH80.

@SGNerf: First, I love the simplicity of this design! Second, what is the purpose of the o-ring? To just seal gaps and act as a rotation point? Would just using pipes that fit nicely be an alternative?

Well, the o-ring is an important component in the design 'cos it acts as a slippery surface so that the PVC parts in contact can rotate smoothly. Without the o-ring, the tight fit of the PVC fastening collar tends to cause the barrel assembly to lock up and not be able to rotate properly.

In addition, the o-ring also compresses slightly which creates the necessary spacing and compression for the ring of foam padding to provide a 100% turret air seal.

This post has been edited by SgNerf: 23 August 2011 - 12:01 AM

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