27 replies to this topic

[Radio]

http://ca.youtube.co...h?v=Bu7b_KmSJ54


After reading other writeups as examples I decided to compose my own version of the obligitory backstory.
Here goes:


I went to target.
I bought a Doubleshot.
I opened it.

My goal was to eliminate the most annoying aspect of the Double Shot (the shell ejection) while retaining the sweet break-action breech and mix in the efficiency of rear-loading barrels.

Materials

Hacksaw / Dremel

Needle Nose Pliers

2-1/8" of 17/32 Brass Tubing
EDIT: I have come to the realization this is an uncommonly small diameter for barrels, I use ACE FBR which is on the small side.

Hotglue

1/2 Drillbit (actually 17/32 would probably work better)

Goop or your favorite epoxy

Instructions



Open that badboy up, and saw the barrel off at the end of the yellow faux forestock... I'm not sure why this is performed, other than for minimization, compactness, and the coolness factor of having a "Sawed Off" Shotgun. I just did it because everyone else was doing it.



Now to attack the shells.



Grab your hardcore battleworn needle nose pliers and rip the stabilizing sticks out of two of the four shells you are provided with.


Now here's where you have options:

Option 1: (The way I did It)

Grab your drill and 1/2" bit and drill from the top of the shell all the way through the butt of the shell. Cut a 2-1/16" length of 17/32" diameter brass and put your blood sweat and tears into jamming said brass into the the 2" newly drilled shell so that the 1/16" excess of the brass sticks out of the rear of the shell.

Option 2: (The way I should have done it)

Grab your drill and 17/32" bit and drill from the top of the shell all the way through the butt of the shell. Cut a 2-1/16" length of 17/32" diameter brass and firmly slide your brass into the the 2" newly drilled shell so that the 1/16" excess of the brass sticks out of the rear of the shell.

It should look similar to this



Next Hotglue the gap between the brass and the plastic butt of the shell. Make sure no hotglue goes higher than the rim of the 1/16" excess.

Once this is completed thinly epoxy/goop the thin part of the barrel to the plastic springed ring in the barrel of the Doubleshot. MAKE SURE YOU GLUE IT IN SUCH A WAY THAT IT DOES NOT RESTRICT THE MOVEMENT OF THE SHELL SLIDING IN AND OUT OF THE BARREL.

Finished Product:



Another View



Gets about 15' better than stock, shoots stefans, and loads from the rear of both shells. The 1/16" excess helps to succeed where the other "No Shell" mods have problems, the seal.

Here's a Youtube of how it works.
Watch it.

Edited by Radio, 16 November 2008 - 04:46 PM.

[CrazyIvan VI]

Wow. This mod makes me want to go buy a doubleshot now.

Great Job.

[CapnTac]

This makes me sad. The string in my DS snapped recently and it has been rendered unusable.
Cool mod, though. I would definitley do this to my DS if it wasn't broken.

[Ambience 327]

Very interesting concept. You have eliminated the most annoying aspect of the Double Shot (the shell ejection) while retaining the coolness factor of the break-action breech and the efficiency of rear-loading barrels.

My suggestion, if you want to keep this thing functional for long, reinforce the catch mechanisms. (You could probably accomplish this with some strips of sheet metal or something similar.) I have had two separate Double Shots scrapped because the catches broke, rendering them useless. However, reinforced catch mechs might even allow you to put in stronger springs, and since the trigger mech is independent of the catches, you wouldn't have to do anything there. Fix this one glaring deficiency in the Double Shot, and your lovely little beast will serve you well for some time to come.

[Blue]

Awesome. I hate shells falling on the ground.

[Kid Flash]

I like it... Now to find my doubleshots... I know they're in one of my totes.

[Radio]

Ambience 327, on Nov 10 2008, 10:25 AM, said:

Very interesting concept. You have eliminated the most annoying aspect of the Double Shot (the shell ejection) while retaining the coolness factor of the break-action breech and the efficiency of rear-loading barrels.

Wow thanks! That was an amazing summerization of what I was trying to achive. I may actually put this into the writeup.

Quote

My suggestion, if you want to keep this thing functional for long, reinforce the catch mechanisms. (You could probably accomplish this with some strips of sheet metal or something similar.) I have had two separate Double Shots scrapped because the catches broke, rendering them useless. However, reinforced catch mechs might even allow you to put in stronger springs, and since the trigger mech is independent of the catches, you wouldn't have to do anything there. Fix this one glaring deficiency in the Double Shot, and your lovely little beast will serve you well for some time to come.

I had no idea the catch was so weak. Maybe I could just use hi-grip hotglue and small brass strips for that.

Edited by Radio, 10 November 2008 - 05:00 PM.

[Mr BadWrench]

Radio, i need your address. You just made my Christmas card list.

Don

[MoonMaster]

I like this mod. Doubleshots always seem to have poor performance though. I don't think I've ever seen one brassed, and you handled the shell ejection system nicely. This is probably the most functional doubleshot I've ever seen.

[Radio]

Just Some Bob, on Nov 10 2008, 03:22 PM, said:

So I might as well contribute - ...On mine the right barrel sealed fine, but the left had trouble. Putting in a larger piece of foam can fix that, but it can't afford to be more than about 1/32" thicker than stock. ...The way you built yours, a ring of foam around each of the shells might do the whole job just as well. I used plastic barrels, but an additional suggestion, if you can, is to flare out your brass a little - that should help when reloading too.

Hey thanks bob, your call on the seal of the left barrel was PERFECT i was having exactly the same problem. My short term solution was to push the front end of the gun upwards during firing so that it would seal better I will edit the post later once I get some craft foam to include your foam ring idea for the shells.

BTW Bob it seems I will be seeing you at SJNO in december maybe we can swap some more ideas then.

[Split]

You could also replace the ejection springs with stronger ones. My suggestion is of course what we discussed on Aim. SO clean though. Much props.

[TheNerfLoki]

All of these mods on BB stuff make me want to double check my TRU for that . Nice job. But why didn't you use longer brass?

Edited by TheNerfLoki, 10 November 2008 - 08:16 PM.

[Radio]

TheNerfLoki, on Nov 10 2008, 05:09 PM, said:

All of these mods on BB stuff make me want to double check my TRU for that . Nice job. But why didn't you use longer brass?

I had better luck with target.

I found best results with the shorter brass believe it or not, since I didn't mod any of the internals, the friction of the shorter brass was sufficiant.

Edited by Radio, 11 November 2008 - 01:09 AM.

[Mr BadWrench]

I wanted to show an improvement on your shells...

My brass is 3in (sorry forgot to take a pic) I tested 4,3.5,3 and 2.5

I just used a step drill to center on the stock shells and drill them out to 1/2in..




and my final product..



Don.

[Greed]

Fantastic, now all you need to do is give it an Elmer-Fudd style paintjob and you're all set.

Would it be helpful to replace the rest of the barrel, or does that matter?

[Ubermensch]

No. The rest of the barrel is like the Longshot's faux barrel; it serves no purpose, and possibly hinders performance. The actual barrel is in the shell itself.

[Mr BadWrench]

Im working on a better seal.. ive decided that I can spray the barrel and shells with silicon lube and pump a bunch of RTV gasket maker into the gap to seal it.... hoping the rtv will keep the connection from becoming permanent.. If not I should be able to cut the rtv with a piece of piano wire to salvage the DS.

Don

[Radio]

Im wating for my 17/32 bit to come in the mail, then ill put the three inch brass into the other 2 shells (Thx badwrench). Next im going to strip the gaskets that are already on there and put some ultrathick craft foam rings around the edges of the shells (thx JSB) and im going to test my results, if they're noteworthy i'll update the writeup. Whats an RTV gasket? link? pic?

Thanks for all the help guys,
-Radio

[Ubermensch]

Wow, how did I not notice this? I love it. Great job, Radio, and kudos to you.

[Lynx]

I'd try to replace the rest of the barrels with 9/16th or something else since it needs to be close the the correct size for the stefan but otherwise, it's actually hurting it.

[fuzz080]

Excellent mod Radio, but I was wondering if you could use hot glue in substitute for epoxy when securing the shells to the gun.

Cheers,
Fuzz

[Radio]

fuzz080, on Nov 16 2008, 11:33 AM, said:

Excellent mod Radio, but I was wondering if you could use hot glue in substitute for epoxy when securing the shells to the gun.

-fuzz

You could totally do that, the problem I personally had when I tried that was that my glue gun pumped WAYY to much glue onto the end of the shell and when I tried to insert it into the "barrel" it clogged up the spring mech, and I had to scrape it out and try the whole thing all over again. Also hot glue dries so quick that you really have got to measure out the perfect amount, immedately.

Long story shot the Epoxy was a thinner concistancy and took lots longer to dry.



-Lynx

Thanks for the concern man, I see that around here the widely accepted brass diameter is 9/16 for 1/2 in. FBR. The issue I have is that I buy ACE foam which is notorious for being a little short on the girth side and thats why I use 17/32. I will definately add a side note about this in the writeup.



Thanks again everyone for being so supportive.
-Radio

[Lynx]

Radio, on Nov 16 2008, 04:41 PM, said:

-Lynx

Thanks for the concern man, I see that around here the widely accepted brass diameter is 9/16 for 1/2 in. FBR. The issue I have is that I buy ACE foam which is notorious for being a little short on the girth side and thats why I use 17/32. I will definately add a side note about this in the writeup.

Well, I'd just use some 9/16ths to coupler with the 17/32nds on the outside of the shell so you could coupler 9/16ths to the 9/16ths so you get a better seal. If you want to keeps the stock dart ability, just don't use the 9/16ths but since I saw you using stefans, it wouldn't be a bad choice. You could even put a couple more inches of 17/32nds in the 9/16ths for more of the same barrel diameter.

It's just a recommendation. Have fun with it, it is great indoors!

Note: 9/16ths, PETG and Sch 80 PVC is good for air guns. 17/32nd's, CPVC and wide wall PETG is good for springers. Sch 40 PVC can hold every barrel material for coupler-ing except Sch 80 PVC and CPVC (without major sanding/drilling)

Edited by Lynx, 16 November 2008 - 05:34 PM.

[Radio]

Capitans Log Nov 18: Unfortunately the craft foam around the butt of the shell turned out to be a major dissapointment, ranges decreased to 5-8 ft. Upon removal of the foam rings ranges went back to normal with a slight bonus due to the new 3in brass (badwrench). Writeup to augmented soon.

[x I forgot which]

Sorry about the four month necro, but those minimizing a doubleshot, you can cut the barrel down past the foregrip. I'd recommend from experience cutting it about two to two and a half inches past the end of the foregrip. Again, sorry about the necro.