15 replies to this topic

[Galaxy613]

Not so long ago I made my first SNAP variant, I call it to the K100. It's a basic snap with some corners cut... I was too lazy to get a reducing bushing so I shoved a 3/4'' coupler in the front with a layer or two of e-tape and screwed it in. I also didn't do a proper plunger head or charging rod. (You'll see both in a minute) The charging rod I got from a lamp stand, and it is HEAVY. But it works with the spring I have but I honestly thing it's bringing down the range...

Here's my current MS Paint plans I drew up;


What made me really want to make a SNAP-4BP was being able to have a stock. I was thinking about how I could give the K100 a stock, and my original idea was to take a T joint instead of the streight coupler like the K100, and put that on the "front" and turn around the handle/trigger assembly. (K200A) This idea was fueled by the memory of the SNAP-4BP because I've been looking around the homemade directory a good deal. I started working more on the idea and came up with the K200B and then I started talking to Rork, the creator of the Snapbow. He suggested instead of T joints, just use elbow joins like the 4BP but cut a elbow in half and just glue the halves onto the elbows. This gave rise to the K200C. The K200 in that picture is how the gun currently looks now. The thing in the upper left is my (failed?) folding stock design.

ANYWAYS. Pictures:



The gun is held together by screws, so it's very easy to take apart. The barrel is a very weird hodgepodge of parts. If anyone has a suggestion on a good barrel that will fit into a 3/4'' PVC coupler, my ears are open.



Here is it disassembled. You can clearly see my poorly made plunger head. Someday SOON I'm going to try to make a plunger assembly like from Rork's Snapbow. Because I just measured the range this currently gets, and it's a little past 40ft. This spring is a pretty powerful spring, so I think it's the combo of a horrible plunger head, and a very heavy charging rod.

I hope I inspired someone else to try to make one. The stock is VERY comfortable and once I get it to shoot good ranges and maybe a breech, it'll be one of my favorite guns.

[AssassinNF]

Those paint drawings make me think you're a game spriter.

Looks good, but I'm a little confused about how you cock it. Do you just pull on the brass sticking out the front? Seems like it would be difficult without a handle.

[Galaxy613]

Yeah, you pull it forward. It's a bit awkward. The actual 4BP is alot better in this regard.

[AssassinNF]

Galaxy613, on Aug 17 2008, 07:48 PM, said:

Yeah, you pull it forward. It's a bit awkward. The actual 4BP is alot better in this regard.

Looks like it would be much easier to use if you put on the handle you designed on the K200C version.

[rork]

Well, I am impressed. I like the way you did the stock; it's as simple as my suggestion, but preserves the lines of your original version. What glue are you using? I look VERY forward to seeing what happens when you revamp the plunger. Good work. ~Rork

[Galaxy613]

I use Zap-a-Gap, a very strong super glue when allowed to set a couple hours. I had to JB-weld the bottom stock connector because it wasn't playing nice and there was a gap that no Zap-a-gap would gap.

[Carbon]

Nice work!

Your ranges will definitely improve once you get a proper plunger head on it. The ranges you're getting are pretty much what I was getting when I had no proper seal, around 40 feet. Seal it up, and you'll be getting an easy 80 feet, if not more. Keep us posted, looking forward to seeing where your design goes. It's nice inspiration, as I hope to finally build the mk2 version of the 4bp this fall. Keep us posted!

[bogboogalars]

This makes the third thread you've necro'd today, I thought I might say that necroing in general is a bad thing. The only reason you should ever bring back an older topic is when you have something important to say, the author of this post could have gone his/her whole life without reading that post. Just trying to offer a little help to make your stay here a little more comfortable.

Edited by bogboogalars, 28 September 2008 - 05:16 PM.

[Galaxy613]

First time anyone necro'd a thread of mine, I don't know whether to be honored or annoyed.

Killakit, on Sep 28 2008, 05:43 PM, said:

Although I hear the ranges are not that impressive. I that true?

It's in the first post. I wouldn't lie about my ranges knowingly.

Killakit, on Sep 28 2008, 05:43 PM, said:

Well either way I am sure you can boost up the ranges right? About how much are the on The Market Of Haven?

Yeah, the way you boost the range is to make a normal Snap or Rork plunger head, use a +Bow spring, and use CPVC or something for the priming rod.

[rork]

Speaking of which: how's the improvement process going? This thing's too nice to let it languish in "half-built" purgatory.

[Galaxy613]

rork, on Sep 28 2008, 10:14 PM, said:

Speaking of which: how's the improvement process going? This thing's too nice to let it languish in "half-built" purgatory.

Well, I tried to make a new plunger head, and apparently I screwed up the rubber washer sizes and I got one washer slightly to big and one very big. So I improvised and put the rubber washer that was slightly to big (I think it's 1 and 1/2 inches OD) and am using that right now. But then I moved the plunger set over to the K100 for testing where it is currently.

What I NEED right now is a +Bow spring or a AR15 spring. Because my ACE does not carry springs that can go over CPVC.

[rork]

The washer sizes for my plunger head are 1 1/2" OD for the sealing washer (which needs to be a bit bigger than the pressure chamber, which is approximately 1 3/8"), and 1 1/4" OD for the padding washer, which I highly recommend, especially if you're using very strong springs. In fact, if there's any desire for one, I might make a sort of mini-writeup for this plunger style, so people can directly refer to it, instead of digging through the SNAPbow writeup. ~Rork

[Galaxy613]

rork, on Sep 29 2008, 02:06 PM, said:

The washer sizes for my plunger head are 1 1/2" OD for the sealing washer (which needs to be a bit bigger than the pressure chamber, which is approximately 1 3/8"), and 1 1/4" OD for the padding washer, which I highly recommend, especially if you're using very strong springs. In fact, if there's any desire for one, I might make a sort of mini-writeup for this plunger style, so people can directly refer to it, instead of digging through the SNAPbow writeup. ~Rork

Do it. In detail with non-blurry pictures. Call it the "Rork Plunger Head" I also don't fully understand how you can get the rubber washers to be cupped like they do in the SNAP and your version. I know it has something to do with the finishing washer, but I don't know how exactly it works...

[Carbon]

Galaxy613, on Sep 29 2008, 02:28 PM, said:

I also don't fully understand how you can get the rubber washers to be cupped like they do in the SNAP and your version. I know it has something to do with the finishing washer, but I don't know how exactly it works...

Yeah, the finishing washer presses in the center, cupping it up. However, I really don't think that's what makes the seal, anymore (the cup shape). Looking at wear patterns on old washers, the seal seems to be made by the rubber washer jamming in between the endcap and the plunger chamber walls. So, flexibility is good, but I don't think that a cup shape is at all necessary.

[rork]

On all mine, the washer ends up bent back; I believe that the cup shape gives it enough flexibilty to conform to the walls of the pressure chamber. With my design, there's not any endcap for the washer to interact with; it's all a question of flexibility and rigidity in the right areas. ~Rork