11 replies to this topic

[Jonathan Lim]

I have a modded Stryfe. It has a killlswiitch that works, locks removed, blaster rewired.

Now, I run them on Ultrafires. 4 of them to be precise because 3 of them are weak.

Also, Li-Pos are rare in my country, so I'll have to stick with Li-Ions instead.

But I have a question, why do I sometimes see people running their Stryfes on 8.4v Li-Po batteries and have (slightly) better velocity than my 16v Ultrafires?

The voltage is obviously like half my voltage. Also, if I use stock motors, what type of Li-Po should I use (in terms of voltage)?

[meishel]

But I have a question, why do I sometimes see people running their Stryfes on 8.4v Li-Po batteries and have (slightly) better velocity than my 16v Ultrafires?

The voltage is obviously like half my voltage. Also, if I use stock motors, what type of Li-Po should I use (in terms of voltage)?

Because Ultrafires are crap batteries. They have very low current, lots of voltage sag, and their specs are HIGHLY exaggerated. They are designed for flashlights, not motors.

[OceanSkais]

What meishel said is completely true, but if you want a really good explanation watch foamdataservices big battery guide.

[Lunas]

Because Ultrafires are crap batteries. They have very low current, lots of voltage sag, and their specs are HIGHLY exaggerated. They are designed for flashlights, not motors.

and imr are less crap but still not ideal for anything but lights. Lipo packs are best if you need convenience and have good lights you might have better options with imr. If you have r/c and use lipo for more than just nerf then lipo might be better.

Edited by Lunas, 01 July 2015 - 10:12 PM.

[Jonathan Lim]

and imr are less crap but still not ideal for anything but lights. Lipo packs are best if you need convenience and have good lights you might have better options with imr. If you have r/c and use lipo for more than just nerf then lipo might be better.

are Li-Pos dangerous though? I've seen people puncture many Lipo batteries and just end up frying their whole blaster on fire.

[Gears]

are Li-Pos dangerous though? I've seen people puncture many Lipo batteries and just end up frying their whole blaster on fire.

Where have you seen this.

[KaneTheMediocre]

are Li-Pos dangerous though? I've seen people puncture many Lipo batteries and just end up frying their whole blaster on fire.

Where have you seen this.

Seconded. This sounds like the best nerf video I've seen in years...


You can get a good idea of how your batteries are performing by measuring their voltage while in use. Your batteries may be 16V when you're not using them, but all batteries will drop in voltage somewhat when they are actually supplying current. A 16V battery with low current rating may actually have a lower voltage under load than a 8.4V battery with a higher current output rating.

[Jonathan Lim]

Thanks a lot guys.
But I have decided Which Li-Po to use.
This.
Turnigy 800mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack


Can this be used on the Stryfe without cutting the part that says "POWER UP WITH DURACELL"?
I have cut out the battery divider and took out the pegs.
Thanks.

Edited by Jonathan Lim, 03 July 2015 - 06:05 AM.

[meishel]

are Li-Pos dangerous though? I've seen people puncture many Lipo batteries and just end up frying their whole blaster on fire.

MOST battery types are dangerous if mistreated. Ultrafire/trustfires can explode if overdrawn (There are reports of this happening in stampedes). IMRs can spew fire if punctured. LiPos will spew fire if punctured and shorted. Rule of thumb when dealing with ANYTHING explosive/flammable? Take precautions, and handle it appropriately.

Fact: Gasoline is extremely explosive, but we pump GALLONS of it inside our cars and DRIVE AROUND over 70 MPH!!!

There are very few battery failures in Nerf period. And I imagine they all stem from abuse or overdrawing the battery with too much current. You see a lot more battery failures in quad copters because they ride the jagged line of max current and weight and sometimes mess up the math. Just build some cushion so you don't draw too much amperage from your battery and don't poke it with nails/jagged edges.

[Lunas]

MOST battery types are dangerous if mistreated. Ultrafire/trustfires can explode if overdrawn (There are reports of this happening in stampedes). IMRs can spew fire if punctured. LiPos will spew fire if punctured and shorted. Rule of thumb when dealing with ANYTHING explosive/flammable? Take precautions, and handle it appropriately.

Fact: Gasoline is extremely explosive, but we pump GALLONS of it inside our cars and DRIVE AROUND over 70 MPH!!!

There are very few battery failures in Nerf period. And I imagine they all stem from abuse or overdrawing the battery with too much current. You see a lot more battery failures in quad copters because they ride the jagged line of max current and weight and sometimes mess up the math. Just build some cushion so you don't draw too much amperage from your battery and don't poke it with nails/jagged edges.

yep we are all driving rolling bombs (gasoline or lithium battery packs) carrying bombs (any portable device with a lipo example any cell phone or laptop or tablet) and wearing bombs on our wrists (any smartwatch)


for that matter alkaline batteries can explode too and they are filled with potassium phosphate or lye...

If you really want something that wont explode stick to potatoes and lemons...

[Astech]

The voltage is obviously like half my voltage. Also, if I use stock motors, what type of Li-Po should I use (in terms of voltage)?

I've been running stock Stryfe motors at 8v with no problems, any higher and I can smell burning coming from the motors. One can get away with 12V in short bursts, but you'll wear out the motors eventually. I know that Coop772 has preferred running stock motors at 16V, then simply buying another $20 Stryfe when the motors burnt out. In summary, 8-8.5V is about the limit for keeping batteries alive, but you can go heaps higher if you're willing to burn the motors out slowly.

[meishel]

I've been running stock Stryfe motors at 8v with no problems, any higher and I can smell burning coming from the motors. One can get away with 12V in short bursts, but you'll wear out the motors eventually. I know that Coop772 has preferred running stock motors at 16V, then simply buying another $20 Stryfe when the motors burnt out. In summary, 8-8.5V is about the limit for keeping batteries alive, but you can go heaps higher if you're willing to burn the motors out slowly.

Or just throw in carbon brushes, or get motors with carbon brushes, and run them at optimal voltage for a much longer time. I've only had one set of carbon brushed motors fail, and that's because I ran it at double the Maximum recommended voltage.