#1
Posted 23 December 2008 - 12:09 PM
A.) Stock Paint
B.) Krylon fusion (with stock paint under it)
C.) A THIN layer of hot glue
Also, what kind of sanding prep would you recommend for vinyl dye? I know it recolors the plastic itself, it's not just paint, therefore I shouldn't need to do much more than sand off the old coat of paint right?
#2
Posted 23 December 2008 - 12:23 PM
It's just screaming to be rearloading...
I seen a movie about that once.
#4
Posted 23 December 2008 - 12:37 PM
Wait, you can remove paint with hot glue?
Oh that is so added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole!
On topic Generaly you don't have to remove the stock paint because it is not paint at all, it's the color of the plastic.
#5
Posted 23 December 2008 - 01:16 PM
Wait, you can remove paint with hot glue?
Oh that is so added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole!
On topic Generaly you don't have to remove the stock paint because it is not paint at all, it's the color of the plastic.
I have to say this so some noob doesn't quote you on it. I KNOW the bulk of nerf blasters don't have paint on a majority of the frame, but there ARE sections that need to have the paint stripped.
#6
Posted 23 December 2008 - 04:47 PM
Okay, so I went out and bought the paint I'm gonna use to recolor my guns. What do you guys recommend for removing the following:
A.) Stock Paint
B.) Krylon fusion (with stock paint under it)
C.) A THIN layer of hot glue
Also, what kind of sanding prep would you recommend for vinyl dye? I know it recolors the plastic itself, it's not just paint, therefore I shouldn't need to do much more than sand off the old coat of paint right?
If the new stuff is really paint (not dye) then you don't need to remove all paint from under it. Just scuff it up with sandpaper or Scotchbrite. If it is dye, then sanding is your best bet. But if there is texture under the paint that you want to keep, you're going to have to work harder, probably with some kind of remover chemical like Goof-Off, which brings risks of its own - it might melt the plastic if allowed enough time to try. Work with very small amounts on very small areas at a time and do not go back over any area until it's had a couple of hours to cure/dry/reharden.
I try never to have thin layers of hot glue. Thick layers tend to be easier to peel off. Add some if you need to.
Thanks for the tips, JSB. I went out and got my dye AND paint today, so I'm in good shape now. Just gotta wait for the weather to warm up now. I'll sand it down at some point.
#7
Posted 23 December 2008 - 06:08 PM
#8
Posted 23 December 2008 - 06:18 PM
Also, you can take some acetone after it, it eats the plastic but if you do it right, it'll leave you with a good surface to paint on. I don't recommend doing it on something you want to look nice unless you know what you're doing. But if you just alcohol it and use a plastic primer you'll have no problems, no sanding needed.
Thats the way I do it. Use a rag with some light fast rubbing. The triggers and orange pieces need a little extra so If I find that the paint pools up or simply doesn't stick. I will sand that down a little and try again.
#9
Posted 23 December 2008 - 06:30 PM
Thats the way I do it. Use a rag with some light fast rubbing.
Ha added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole
That's about it. And thanks Angela who helped me with these pictures.. It looks huge in her hands.
HOLY CRAP!
FU ALL
#10
Posted 23 December 2008 - 07:35 PM
Thats the way I do it. Use a rag with some light fast rubbing.
Ha added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole
I had a feeling someone was gonna sig that.
Thank you for at least linking it to the original post rather then just removing it from context like most douche bags would.
Edited by Blacksunshine, 23 December 2008 - 07:35 PM.
#11
Posted 23 December 2008 - 09:27 PM
NOTE: ENAMEL paint WILL NOT go over ACRYLIC spray paint. It will bubble up worse than the wicked witch of the west after she takes a bath.
Thats the way I do it. Use a rag with some light fast rubbing.
Sometimes I hate my uncontrollable imagination....
#12
Posted 23 December 2008 - 09:36 PM
I use 300-500 grit sand paper, I don't try removing paint from a surface that looks like the dark side of the moon (bumpy). If you do, like the guys have said use a chemical paint remover.
NOTE: ENAMEL paint WILL NOT go over ACRYLIC spray paint. It will bubble up worse than the wicked witch of the west after she takes a bath.
Thanks for the warning, I need to get a can of krylon-fusion then. I was gonna do enamel paint for one of the colors, but I'm gonna switch to krylon-fusion now.
#13
Posted 23 December 2008 - 09:42 PM
I use 300-500 grit sand paper, I don't try removing paint from a surface that looks like the dark side of the moon (bumpy). If you do, like the guys have said use a chemical paint remover.
NOTE: ENAMEL paint WILL NOT go over ACRYLIC spray paint. It will bubble up worse than the wicked witch of the west after she takes a bath.
Thanks for the warning, I need to get a can of krylon-fusion then. I was gonna do enamel paint for one of the colors, but I'm gonna switch to krylon-fusion now.
Just glad I could help
Thats the way I do it. Use a rag with some light fast rubbing.
Sometimes I hate my uncontrollable imagination....
#14
Posted 23 December 2008 - 10:42 PM
Only if the surface of the plastic is really glossy. An extremely smooth surface will allow the dye to bead up before it can soften the surface to accept the dye.I heard you sand with a very fine sandpaper befoer applying vinyl dye.
#15
Posted 23 December 2008 - 11:48 PM
Thats the way I do it. Use a rag with some light fast rubbing.
Ha added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole
I had a feeling someone was gonna sig that.
Thank you for at least linking it to the original post rather then just removing it from context like most douche bags would.
HA! HA! Me too
Thats the way I do it. Use a rag with some light fast rubbing.
Sometimes I hate my uncontrollable imagination....
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