Longshot Mod Questions
Posted 14 March 2012 - 07:13 PM
But none of that is as important as your poor choice of font. What the fuck where you thinking, using a monospace font for regular spoken-word text? And Courier New of all things... the most archaic, difficult-to-read of the fonts supported by IPboard. If you absolutely insist on using a non-proportional font, try Lucida Console (it's much more readable). Or you could just use non-formatted text - this isn't a fucking beauty contest.
This post has been edited by Daniel Beaver: 14 March 2012 - 07:15 PM
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:50 PM
That may be one of the most beautiful rants I have ever read. Thank you Daniel Beaver, for the entertainment.
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:52 PM
I've got way too many orders right now. If you want
Check my profile periodically for updates on the 3D printers/pumpbows if you're curious about your order status.
Posted 15 March 2012 - 06:51 AM
Posted 15 March 2012 - 06:52 AM
Back to the OP: you can use any spring(s) so long as they fit in the PT, over the PR, and at max compression do not exceed the space between the back of the PH and the front of the screwed-on plate.
If you use multiple nested springs, I'd recommend alternating them by direction (clockwise v. counterclockwise) else your springs may interweave instead of nesting.
If you use multiple sequential springs, I'd strongly recommend you use ones with 'closed' ends - the end of the spring's wire lays flat against the next coil or two. This will again keep the springs from intervweaving.
If you up-spring your blaster too much, please consider reinforcing the boltsled. Various writeups exist. Also consider augmenting the catch spring as well.
Posted 15 March 2012 - 07:13 AM
You can either use thin padding (for my angel-breeched LS I use ~1/8" thick foam rubber that works very well) or you can cut down the black piece of the bolt a bit, to compensate for a thicker padding (I would use 1/4" foam rubber, but many don't have access to it).
As for where to find foam rubber, I get 3 thicknesses of adhesive-backed stuff from a local surplus store, but I have no idea where else one could look for it.
EDIT: super glue works well to attach it without the adhesive backing.
This post has been edited by BOSS9: 15 March 2012 - 07:59 AM
Posted 15 March 2012 - 07:26 AM
The back end of the bolt that reciprocates in the PT is another option. In one LS, I filled that with Crayola Model Magic and left the PH bare. The biggest pain with that method was to get the excess out of the way, but it was rather minor an effort - just cycle the bolt a few times.
Posted 15 March 2012 - 02:29 PM