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Nerf Stampede - Reviews & Internals Guide

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Started by SgNerf, Jul 24 2010 01:21 AM

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#1 SgNerf

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 01:21 AM

Updated!

Here are the latest links to the Nerf Stampede ECS Complete Review, Demo & Test Fire, and Internals Guide.

Nerf Stampede - Review!

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Full Review Link: http://sgnerf.blogsp...ecs-review.html

Nerf Stampede - Demo & Test Fire Video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaTWXXUXKNk

Nerf Stampede - Internals Guide!

I'm sure everyone is keen to find out how the Stampede works too, so here are the internal photos i've taken so far:

Nerf Stampede ECS - Disassembled

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Nerf Stampede ECS - Motor, Circuits & Gears Detail

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Nerf Stampede ECS - Plunger & Gears Detail

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Nerf Stampede ECS - Plunger Comparison with Nerf Longshot CS-6
(Top: Longshot / Bottom: Stampede)

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Nerf Stampede ECS - Plunger Internals Detail

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Full Internals Guide Link: http://modworks.blog...nals-guide.html

Edited by SgNerf, 29 April 2011 - 10:57 AM.

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#2 jaybo1996

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 01:47 AM

So, the pictures are a little unclear as to how it works, is it reverse plungered? It appears to have a smaller, traditional plunger set up. Also, that will be an amazing shell for integrations, or even flat out replacements, an Angel breeched LS in that shell, would be awsome.

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#3 Demon Lord

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 01:53 AM

At least it isn't/doesn't appear to be reverse plundered. Looks like a good RoF gun and IMHO very tacticool looking and fast reload type as well. Is Nerf listening to us?

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#4 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 02:07 AM

Quite unfortunate to see that the battery wiring is entirely in series and that it once again takes a tray of 6 D-cells. So even though I'm sure we're all happy to see that a brass breech will be a piece of cake, keeping this thing powered through a season of nerf is going to be a real pain.

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#5 SgNerf

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 02:07 AM

So, the pictures are a little unclear as to how it works, is it reverse plungered? It appears to have a smaller, traditional plunger set up. Also, that will be an amazing shell for integrations, or even flat out replacements, an Angel breeched LS in that shell, would be awsome.

Actually, i'm also trying to figure out how the whole mechanism works too.

After observing how the parts move, it seems to incorporate some design elements from AEG gearboxs (read: Airsoft), yet has its own unique way of working.

Here is what i figure so far from my observations:

The motor turns a half-toothed gear which engages the flat rail under the plunger casing and pulls it forwards, which also moves the bolt forward to chamber a dart, but the plunger rod itself stays catched behind, so this creates the priming action with the spring being compressed... at the end of the forward bolt travel, some linkages uncatch the plunger rod and it flys forward, compressing air and firing the dart... the thin black spring around the bolt acts as a return spring for the assembly, so the bolt moves back to the open position and then the whole process starts again.

Still figuring out the exact process, but i think it seems to be working along those lines.

Edited by SgNerf, 24 July 2010 - 10:26 PM.

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#6 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 02:10 AM

On second thought, given how this mechanism is perpetually open, a durable brass breech wouldn't actually be so easy... unless you wanted to have the hassle of rotating the barrel every time you wanted to swap magazines. Anyone up for the challenge of reversing the motor and changing the internals to be an RTP with self-return(expand?) due to the buffer spring.

Also, to anyone still confused after SGNerf's fairly good explanation, this operates very similar to the vulcan especially with the use of the half-gear. The motor only moves the entire plunger assembly (including spring rest) forward, with the exception of the plungr rod which is held back. Thus it primes by compressing the spring from the back, as opposed to from the front like in most single-shot springers. The half-gear allows the entire assembly to then fly back unrestricted after the firing sequence.

Edited by Zorn's Lemma, 24 July 2010 - 03:19 AM.

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#7 wespelarno

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 06:43 AM

keeping this thing powered through a season of nerf is going to be a real pain.

RC car batteries-it will take about 9 seconds of sustained use for them to pay off.

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#8 Luke

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 06:51 AM

After seeing the internals of this and all the plastic gears I'm starting to wonder how it will hold up with a spring replacement, it seems like there'd be too much a chance of stripping the gears over time or if you put the wrong type spring in.

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#9 Split

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 08:35 AM

Awww shit! This thing is everything I wanted it to be. The plunger tube moves forward over the dart, leaving almost no dead space, unlike the Longshot. I has a nice big-ish forward plunger and it's even got a new clever design since it's actually two halves. Bamf shell that probably shouldn't be minimized at all anyway. Feed system seems much more reliable. Of the 4 firing videos, none have jammed (or broken). I'm sure that was a big goal since they had vulcan returns in the thousands of dollars, if not tens of thousands. No bolt sled, no wimpy rotation mech.

As far as brass breeches go, I don't see why you'd have to rotate the barrel Zorn, but I'm probably just missing something. The angel breech would actually be added dead space to this, though it still might be the best option. I look forward to working on these muchly.

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Teehee.

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#10 nate the great

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 09:16 AM

My first thought about this gun when the pics were leaked, was that it would be a expensive reverse plunger piece of crap. But now that I see that it's a normal plunger, it comes with 3 18 dart clips and 1 standard 6 dart clip, and it shoots 25-30' I think this is totally worth the money. This might even be able to be used in a outdoor war. Thanks for the great review/internal pics SgNerf!

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#11 death by cheez

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 09:17 AM

This looks really good, especially if some genius in the nerf community were to be able to machine some metal gear for this puppy, that way it wouldn't strip the gears on a jam, much like the plastic gear of an airsoft gearbox do. The new lookign plunger tube design looks cool, and it doesn't appear to be a reverse plunger, which greatly helps us. However, if I get one I'm gonna wait to remove the air restrictors until after a few others have successfully done so, for fear of destroying it like I did my vulcan.

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#12 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 12:27 PM

As far as brass breeches go, I don't see why you'd have to rotate the barrel Zorn,

Since the mechanism is open at rest, trying to load magazines at rest has a high chance of ruining your half-pipe. Rotating it during loading and "almost firing" the blaster seem the two simplest, if not most ideal solutions.

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#13 MindWarrior

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 03:00 PM

TO solve that, we could modify the top of the clips to not interfer with the sides of the breach. Then we can just use the clip lock to keep the clip in the correct alignment.

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#14 nate the great

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 03:17 PM

TO solve that, we could modify the top of the clips to not interfer with the sides of the breach. Then we can just use the clip lock to keep the clip in the correct alignment.

That would be awsome but,

No it doesn't have a clip lock. You are able to release the clips at any time.

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#15 Split

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 03:53 PM

There's quite obviously a clip lock. First picture, same little sliding orange piece. Overall internals picture, you can see the piece that goes into the clip area with a small channel for sliding back out of it. You can see people in the videos pulling the slide back to remove the clip. That said, I don't think taking off the tops of the clips is a viable solution anyway. That's a pretty vital portion. Rotating the barrel isn't a horrific idea, but maybe sliding a sheath back over the half pipe before you remove the clip would be more reliable. Basically just a tube of the next highest brass size over the half pipe.

As for the gears, if they used the same plastic for the gears as they did in the vulcan in the same thickness of parts (the teeth were pretty hefty) I wouldn't be worried about that at all.

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#16 badger

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 06:03 PM

I may have misunderstood the question that was asked in the other thread. Yes the clip does lock in place and yes there is a clip release (ambidextrous switches), but you do not have to pull back on the bolt to use the release switch like with every other blaster that uses the Clip System.

With the LS, Recon, and all the others, you had to pull the priming handle back in order to be able to release the clip. Since the Stampede has no priming handle, they seemed to have designed it differently so that you are always able to release the clips, making recovery in a skirmish much easier.

I don't know what this will mean for anyone modifying the blaster.

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#17 MindWarrior

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 07:36 PM

@split: The Idea is not to completely remove the top, but thin out the sides a bit so it has minimal if at all any contact with the brass. I believe Louci3 did a similar thing for clips for his cpvc/brass Ls breech.

@Badger: I was mentioning that the clip clock could keep the clip in the correct position for the breech, as you do not want a lot of contact with the half open breech, I was suggesting that the sides of the "Grips" on the clips be thinned out a bit so it doesn't make contact. Leaving the Clip lock to hold the clip in place.

Edited by MindWarrior, 24 July 2010 - 07:36 PM.

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#18 gmzamz

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 07:44 PM

For the brass breech you could have a halfpipe that only goes halfway back. that way the lips will spread out on the back half, and be open on the front when you push it in. A crappy paint picture follows.
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On side note, I have an idea on how to make this air powered, and still keep it automatic.
edit: picture
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I really can't wait for this to come out, i really like indoor wars and I need more guns for my friends and me.

Edited by gmzamz, 24 July 2010 - 07:56 PM.

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#19 MindWarrior

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 08:08 PM

That's a good idea. Making a breech designed for smaller darts. That way, you can just remove half of the top piece of the clip so it doesn't mangle the open area of the breech.

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QUOTE(Ryan201821 @ Jan 2 2010, 03:20 PM)

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#20 gmzamz

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 08:23 PM

That's a good idea. Making a breech designed for smaller darts. That way, you can just remove half of the top piece of the clip so it doesn't mangle the open area of the breech.

What I meant was to separate the clip in half to get twice as many darts in, while keeping the full lip on the clip. The brass piece that stops the back darts from going in also open the front half of the lip enough to get a halfpipe in. The halfpipe would have to be level or the clip lip would catch one side.

Edit: @mindstorm, 1.25 darts should work

Edited by gmzamz, 24 July 2010 - 08:42 PM.

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#21 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 11:18 PM

that way the lips will spread out on the back half

You'll do a lot better if you spread the lips with the front. Trying to wriggle the back in there first seems a bit counterintuitive.

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#22 MindWarrior

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Posted 25 July 2010 - 12:06 AM

Breeches aside, can the motor be replaced with a stronger one? I'm not familiar with those types of electronics.

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#23 SgNerf

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Posted 25 July 2010 - 01:47 AM

For the issue of brass breech systems not being able to load and unload clips when the breech is open, i have been testing an alternative "quarter-pipe" design on my brass breeched Longshots for the past week and it works.

Credit to "phuonguyen" over at the OzNerf forum for his suggestion of a thinner barrel half-pipe that led to the idea of a quarter-pipe version.

This is what it looks like:

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I've just posted it up on my Mod Works site if anyone want to refer to it: http://modworks.blog...mod-update.html

So... now clips can be loaded and unloaded when the brass breech is open.

Yup, brass breeches are definitely one of the mods i plan to do on my Stampedes too!

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#24 MindWarrior

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Posted 25 July 2010 - 02:06 AM

Excellent! So at least the breech seems less like a hassle now, But I'm still kind of worried about the motor, Hopefully, It can handle a BBB spring replacement to give it ranges from the 70s to 80s.