Jump to content


shandsgator8's Content

There have been 444 items by shandsgator8 (Search limited from 11-November 96)


By content type

See this member's


Sort by                Order  

#348696 Youth Group Nerf Event

Posted by shandsgator8 on 09 September 2015 - 03:45 PM in General Nerf

Where will will this war be held? That will probably make a difference from your legal standpoint. Also, even if it's held at a public park (or somewhere other than church grounds), will it be an official church even? I imagine a church's liability insurance would cover any injuries that might occur on the church's premises or at any church organized event, but either get an attorney or ask the appropriate church official to answer your questions.

My first non-legal thought is whether to allow modded blasters. I guess that would depend on the type of students you have. Are any of them into modding or NIC wars?



#356114 Your thoughts on the Accustrike darts?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 05 October 2016 - 01:16 PM in Darts and Barrels

I'm interested. I assume these have the same dimensions as regular Nerf Elite darts?

 

EDIT: After skimming the Gizmodo article, it appears they're directly compatible with regular Nerf Elite darts. It'll be interesting to see how these work in flywheel blasters.




#363440 Worth it to replace wheels/cage on a stryfe?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 26 October 2018 - 04:24 PM in Modifications

16 gauge is "better" in that it'll be more efficient than 18 gauge (all else being equal). Depending on your set up, you probably won't notice much of a difference between the two gauges, although you seem to have a build where going 16 gauge may be worth it.




#354033 Wiring/Microswitch Question

Posted by shandsgator8 on 07 June 2016 - 12:00 PM in Modifications

There's no downside to using 18 gauge wire over 16 gauge for a Super Stryfe application. I say this assuming you're using a high quality wire, such as those used in R/C vehicles. 18 gauge will probably be easier to work with, in fact. But if you want to have the "best and greatest," it won't hurt to use 16 gauge.

 


As a side note, using an 8 cell NiMH battery (as opposed to a 6 cell NiMH battery ) with honey badgers may produce higher FPS, but lower accuracy. I'm not saying this is a certainty as there are other variables to consider (such as darts used, flywheel alignment, playing style, etc.), but having the highest FPS isn't always the "best" option to take.




#353064 Wire for Modifications

Posted by shandsgator8 on 26 April 2016 - 04:17 PM in Modifications

A high quality 20 or 18 gauge wire (like those used by R/C car enthusiasts) will be fine. If you want to be absolutely sure you're getting every bit of current most efficiently, 16 gauge is the way to go. But practically, 18 or 20 (as long as they're high quality), will be fine.




#358271 Will a Blastertech Stryfe stage 3 Honey Badger 130 XT60 kit work in a

Posted by shandsgator8 on 27 February 2017 - 06:40 PM in Modifications

It'll work in that the motors will fit, but the wiring lengths will be all wrong. Look at the blastersmith UK site for their kit & also look up foamdataservices YouTube video on rewiring the demolisher. It's actually one of the more difficult ones to rewire because of the opposite side battery tray & the lack of much internal room.

 

I have heard/seen this as well.




#363390 Why a 2s 7.4v Lipo Charges to 8.4v?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 07 October 2018 - 03:49 PM in General Nerf

snakerbot is exactly right. I'd like to add that the voltage during a discharge will also depend on the rate of discharge. Under high loads, batteries will experience "voltage sag" which can sometimes lower the voltage of the battery past its nominal voltage rating. Batteries with high internal resistance will tend to do this more (and get warm/hot).




#352069 whos darts?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 08 March 2016 - 09:29 PM in General Nerf

Generally, each participant brings their own darts. Some clubs/groups will have a shared bin of darts (aka: a community bin, which can have several thousand darts in it) that participants may use if they pay a fee. Of course, the host doesn't have to charge a fee if he doesn't want to, but it's his call.

 

I feel the biggest problem with a community darts bin is that it requires a large upfront cost which someone has to pay. The cost can be spread out, but I wouldn't be surprised if people refuse to pay a fee for darts they're not allowed to take home, but rather, only use. The second biggest problem is that which dart works the best in which blaster? I like Gen3 Koosh darts, but some springer users may not and prefer voodberry or stock Nerf Elites.

 

I've only played in wars where everyone brought their own darts. It's nice in that people know what works in their blasters and can load up however and whenever they want. However, what often happens is newer or cheaper players will use your darts (point 1) during the game and accidentally take home other people's darts (point 2). Regarding this first point, it's a little annoying when you bring extra mags and darts, but your buddy only has two 12 shot clips/mags and 24 darts and he expects to play competitively. You will likely let him borrow some darts and/or mags, and this will increase your dart loss. It's a necessary part of playing, I get it (we were all rookies once), but it increase the cost of Nerfing of more seasoned players.

 

Regarding the second point, I played in a group where I started off with about 120 or so stock Nerf Elite darts. After about 2 wars, I literally had 30 darts left. Dart loss in the leaves and forest areas was part of the reason, but I'm pretty sure some of the newbies took a few, thinking my darts belonged to them.

 

The above two points are why a community dart bin can be a good idea.




#353131 Where to buy Mabuchi FK-180SH-3240 Motors?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 28 April 2016 - 06:17 PM in Modifications

I think the primary drawback with using FK-180s is their price/availability. If you can find them or are willing to pay for them, knock yourself out and enjoy.




#353138 Where to buy Mabuchi FK-180SH-3240 Motors?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 28 April 2016 - 08:46 PM in Modifications

Are these actual FK-3240's though? http://www.kysanelec...p?recordID=7071

 

Also, I don't have a 2S or 3S pack yet, though I do have these 3.7 Li ion rechargeable batteries:

http://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o05_s00

 

I have no idea. I believe there are some FK-180 knockoffs and I don't know how to tell if a motor is a fake FK-180 or not.

 

As for lithium ion batteries, I stay away, but then again, I have limited experience with lithium batteries and only then, it's with lithium polymer, not lithium ion cells. Someone else will have to help you there.

 

EDIT: I just saw Jwasko's post right above mine. He's got some good info there, so read it carefully.




#354269 Where to buy Buzz Bee Sentinels

Posted by shandsgator8 on 16 June 2016 - 03:34 PM in General Nerf

I've never ordered from Cabela's, but it's a fairly reputable store, at least with respect to the potential for fraud. They're basically a Gander Mountain or Bass Pro Shop type of store.




#359484 Where can I buy stefans?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 26 April 2017 - 02:39 PM in Darts and Barrels

Depends on exactly what you need. Depending on your barrel and NIC blaster set up, you may need stefans of a particular length and diameter. And do you want domes or slugs?

 

Whatever you want, some people will be able to make them and sell them here on NH (such as myself, but I just make #6 or #8 slugs; no domes from me).




#316564 Whats a good apoxie for nerf guns

Posted by shandsgator8 on 05 June 2012 - 05:26 PM in Modifications

I use JB Weld, but it's overkill and expensive, but I just love the stuff.

Note that generally speaking, the longer it takes for the epoxy to cure, the better water resistance it will have. Shouldn't be an issue with our blasters, but you never know...



#352217 What Trustfires to get?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 15 March 2016 - 03:17 PM in General Nerf

 
"3S is standard for Nerf stock semi-auto motors"
"RS motors? Those are a very different motor and want 2S"
 
I don't want to speak for Toruk but it seems to me he's still consistent on the stock RS motors. He was speaking about stock stryfe motors that happened to be going in an RS. I know stryfe motors have worse RPM and/or torque, so yeah more voltage will compensate.
 
He says stock stryfe motors will last a while at 3S (~11V) and I'll take him for his word. But I wanted to get the info on here that it's gonna pretty hard on them and other people agree that they'll burn up fairly quickly. That  way every noob doesn't complain when their stock stryfe motors burn up the moment they say "Listen how loud this is" and then hold down the rev trigger for however long it takes to prove their manhood (probably quite a long time).
 
If you have concerns, though, you should PM Toruk on reddit or whatever rather than take my word.
 
Side Note: Pretty sure FoamsFired got banned , but figured it doesn't hurt to put the info out there anyway.

 

You are correct Jwasko; I misread that Toruk quote. Sorry for the confusion!




#352207 What Trustfires to get?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 15 March 2016 - 08:43 AM in General Nerf

I don't understand what Toruk was talking about either. He's advocated using a 6 cell NiMH pack in a stock Rapidstrike (unless he recently changed his mind) for those who don't want to rewire or replace motors, but still want a solid performance increase.

 

A 6 cell NiMH is very close to a 2S LiPo with respect to voltage.




#355250 What switches should i use for a 3s and xp180s

Posted by shandsgator8 on 28 July 2016 - 01:16 PM in Modifications

I bet that sucker has some serious resistance.




#350272 What are the stripes inside the barrel?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 29 December 2015 - 09:42 AM in Modifications

That "rifling" makes using Gen 3 Koosh darts in a Rapidstrike borderline unuseable.




#359894 What air tank to use for a shotgun?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 13 May 2017 - 08:47 PM in Modifications

Titan




#350042 War footage

Posted by shandsgator8 on 17 December 2015 - 12:31 PM in Nerf Wars

If you take footage, please use a gimbal. Notice the difference:

 

 

Note: Not my video (it's from MTB). It's the first Nerf footage video I've ever enjoyed watching. Gee, I wonder why.

 

EDIT: Yes, I know gimbals aren't cheap, but neither are GoPro cameras or DSLRs.




#349685 Using Gen 3 Koosh darts in a Rapidstrike

Posted by shandsgator8 on 27 November 2015 - 09:45 AM in Darts and Barrels

Thanks for the post and interesting explanation. I recall reading that some flywheel users actually want a barrel extension to improve the accuracy of their darts. I was skeptical and I think your explanation is more likely correct.

 

I guess I'll figure things out eventually. Right now I'm running a 6 cell NiMH battery pack as the only mod to my Rapidstrike. With a fresh battery, the non-loaded voltage is about 8.5 volts. I should try to replicate my problem with a fully stock Rapidstrike.




#349909 Using Gen 3 Koosh darts in a Rapidstrike

Posted by shandsgator8 on 08 December 2015 - 02:37 PM in Darts and Barrels

I'll give that a try if I can find an old barrel.

 

Thanks!




#350041 Using Gen 3 Koosh darts in a Rapidstrike

Posted by shandsgator8 on 17 December 2015 - 12:28 PM in Darts and Barrels

I think the best place to find non-rifled barrels would be thrift stores, yardsales and places like NH.

 

Yes, assuming you have to use a rifled barrel in a Rapidstrike, Nerf Elite darts reduce the chance of helicoptering/spinning out/fishtailing or whatever you want to call it.

 

As for the video you're referencing, I don't think Coop tests any of those darts in a Rapidstrike or EAT (he's a Stryfe lover, and for good reason, I think). Therefore, I don't think he ever had a chance to address helicoptering.




#349828 Using Gen 3 Koosh darts in a Rapidstrike

Posted by shandsgator8 on 04 December 2015 - 12:55 PM in Darts and Barrels

Thanks for the advice. I'm looking into transitioning to using a Stryfe, but I will probably remove the skirt to see if that fixes the problem. I question whether it will, because I understand that skirt helps center the dart before going through the flywheels and I imagine the spinning out is due to some darts existing the flywheels off center (just a theory).

 

Also, I never have jamming issues (although I'm just running 6 NiMH cells).




#349678 Using Gen 3 Koosh darts in a Rapidstrike

Posted by shandsgator8 on 26 November 2015 - 05:17 PM in Darts and Barrels

Anyone use 3rd generation Koosh darts in a Rapidstrike? I noticed every 6 or so shot out of the my Rapidstrike tend to twirl, spin out, or helicopter.

 

Anyone else observe this and if so, do you know what the cause is and how to fix it? I wonder if removing the skirt might help?




#349724 Using Gen 3 Koosh darts in a Rapidstrike

Posted by shandsgator8 on 28 November 2015 - 10:18 PM in Darts and Barrels

Tested the Gen 3 Koosh darts in a stock Rapidstrike and a stock Stryfe. I observed no spinning out or helicoptering in the Stryfe, but I saw spinning out or helicoptering in the stock Rapidstrike. I also used the darts in a Stryfe with 4 Trustfires and saw no spinning out or helicoptering.

Bottom line from my observations
: Gen 3 Koosh darts work better in Stryfes compared to Rapidstrikes.



#363619 Understanding batteries?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 03 January 2019 - 03:45 PM in Modifications

Just swapping to a pack on stock motors/wheels/cage will max out at 130 FPS, and IIRC it wont hit much harder than 100-110 without new wheels and new motors.

Current is demanded by the motors, you cant supply more than theyll ask for. Meanwhile, supplying *less* than they want is bad for your batteries, and doing bad things to some kinds of batteries is what leads to fire and explosion.

You might consider swapping for a dartzone or adventure force fly wheeler, those hit 80-100 OOTB with AAs. The AF double trouble is $20 and theres a file on thingiverse to make it side-mag fed.

Ed: RE Voltage: if the setup is designed for 7.4ish, supplying 7.4ish shouldnt hurt things. Voltage *is* pushed from the pack to the motors, and upping it can burn stuff out. That said, I use a 20v pack on my nominally-3s motor builds and it hasnt caused immediate problems.

 

This. So no worries about using that Sub-C 6 cell R/C style battery pack.




#363605 Understanding batteries?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 02 January 2019 - 12:06 PM in Modifications

Forget the IMRs and other commonly used lithium ion batteries in the Nerf realm. If you don't want mess with lithium based batteries like lithium polymers, you also don't want to mess with lithium ion cells.

 

As for NiMH cells, that's what I used. I've use both a re-purposed R/C 6 cell Sub-C battery pack (7.2v nominal) for use in some flywheel blasters, but I currently use Eneloop AA cells (I use 6 of them to get 7.2 v) in my flywheelers (Stryfe with MTB Rhino motors and Rapidstrike with stock motors).

 

As a general rule (and all else being equal), the larger the cell is in size, the better it will be able to deliver more current. So a AA cell won't be able to delivery the same current load as efficiently as a C or D cell. However, for a stock flywheeler as in your case, using a AA cell will be just fine, as long as it's a high quality cell, such as an Eneloop. With 6 AA Eneloops, you will notice a slight bump in ROF and can avoid having to buy alkaline cells. But keep in mind that you'll need a charger (an R/C type) to charge your battery pack.

 

Here's a link to my Rapidstrike: http://nerfhaven.com...ke-battery-mod/

 

And Stryfe: http://nerfhaven.com...odified-stryfe/

 

EDIT: You might find this thread useful: http://nerfhaven.com...rent-discharge/




#363607 Understanding batteries?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 02 January 2019 - 03:39 PM in Modifications

Yeah I don't want to mess with lithium batteries due to my children using the blasters.  I will maybe mess around with adding aa (cell) rechargeable NIMH batteries if 4 is not enough.  I was just curious because I see some NiMH say sub c so that just means more available current due to the larger cells.  I know Lipos use the c rating which is nice but NiMH don't use any rating like that that I have seen.  

 

And yes all of my blasters are stock motors, stocks switches, not wanting to burn too much up.  I just removed some of the resistance by using larger wire, removing some safeties, and removing as many circuit boards as possible and more direct wire the blasters.  And I did notice some slight improvements in the blasters.  

 

Thanks for the help, I will maybe just do something similar and make a RC style pack just using my rechargeable AA batteries.  I am running energizer ones that are rated at I think 2100mAH and have high reviews and they seem to be pretty decent.  

 

A few years ago, Energizer NiMH AA were notoriously awful in capacity and internal resistance (i.e. can't hand high current draw). Maybe they've gotten better recently, but if not, you could definitely do better.




#363609 Understanding batteries?

Posted by shandsgator8 on 02 January 2019 - 07:34 PM in Modifications

What about something like this Tenergy NiMH Receiver RX Battery with Hitec Connectors 6V 2000mAh High Capacity Rechargeable Battery Pack for RC Airplanes/RC Aircrafts and More https://www.amazon.c...i_GXtlCbA1SHYHE

 

No, a "hitec" connector is not suited for high current applications. That's basically a receiver pack that powers solid state electronics, not multiple motors lauching foam darts.

 

As for the cells themselves, I have no idea if they're any good. They're probably not Eneloop quality, and because they're intended for use in slow drain applications, I doubt they would be that much better than alkalines.

 

If you want a ready made pack that uses NiMH cells, you'll need to find something other than AA. In the R/C hobby, AA cells aren't used much beyond powering radio systems, so they'll be hard to find. SC (Sub-C) will be much easier to find.




#348093 UMB Raider

Posted by shandsgator8 on 27 July 2015 - 06:03 PM in Modifications

Update:

Had an issue at Koree's nerf war on Saturday. The piece of plastic connected to the orange trigger piece became slightly loose. Although still secure, it created some slop in the tank-trigger-pin mechanism such that the trigger couldn't release the air in the tank. I strengthened the trigger mechanism by adding two more screws and adjusting the metal wire to remove any slop.

Otherwise performance just fine. I will be listing this for sale in my sale thread momentarily.

I also modified the side cover so that it is removable and replaceable with screws. Updated picture below:



Posted Image



#330430 [PA] Philadelphia Nerf War, June 15th

Posted by shandsgator8 on 31 May 2013 - 07:19 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm a maybe... I need darts, and more importantly, foam.


I can sell you some; PM sent.



#330408 [PA] Philadelphia Nerf War, June 15th

Posted by shandsgator8 on 30 May 2013 - 07:13 PM in Nerf Wars

Count me in with a probable +1



#330577 [PA] Philadelphia Nerf War, June 15th

Posted by shandsgator8 on 05 June 2013 - 06:27 AM in Nerf Wars

Question: Since the US Open will be the weekend of this war, do you know if there will be any roads near the Nerf site to avoid due to traffic congestion? I assume we'll be far enough away, but wanted to double check.



#344506 [PA] Nerf War at Plains Airsoft Arena, Sunday March 22nd

Posted by shandsgator8 on 22 January 2015 - 07:33 PM in Nerf Wars

I will be selling modified UMB and some #6 and #8 slugs at this war, if anyone is interested.



#345425 [PA] Nerf War at Plains Airsoft Arena, Sunday March 22nd

Posted by shandsgator8 on 09 March 2015 - 02:25 PM in Nerf Wars

you better be coming... I'm gonna need those darts...


I'd get them to you even if I had to pay to ship them to you.



#343973 [PA] Nerf War at Plains Airsoft Arena, Sunday March 22nd

Posted by shandsgator8 on 06 January 2015 - 10:52 AM in Nerf Wars

I'm a maybe with a possible +1



#345618 [PA] Nerf War at Plains Airsoft Arena, Sunday March 22nd

Posted by shandsgator8 on 17 March 2015 - 08:50 PM in Nerf Wars

I'll definitely be bringing my rockets and my barrel.

On another note, is there any chance that anyone could sell me some darts at the war? I've been really busy recently, so I haven't been able to make any extra darts for my friend. I'm also away right now and won't be coming home until the day of the war. I only need probably 100-200 darts, and would prefer if they are beige foam, white foam, or better. I'll pay at the war or through PayPal, whatever is better, but this would be very helpful. I hope this is ok to post on here, Koree.


I got some darts! Do you need #6 or #8? I'll send you a PM.

EDIT: I will NOT be able to make the war this weekend due to an injury. Sorry fellas.



#345391 [PA] Nerf War at Plains Airsoft Arena, Sunday March 22nd

Posted by shandsgator8 on 07 March 2015 - 12:42 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm pretty much a confirmed, with a likely +2 (instead of a +1). I'm also hoping to sell a Mav-Titan (for cheap) at this event. If anyone's interested, let me know.



#348258 [PA] August 29th Post-Apocalyptic Philadelphia War

Posted by shandsgator8 on 07 August 2015 - 07:42 AM in Nerf Wars

I'm a maybe. If I do make it, I'll be there with a +1 and stuff for sale (slugs and UMB Raider, etc.).



#357275 [Help] Pump Replacement

Posted by shandsgator8 on 22 December 2016 - 08:12 AM in Modifications

What I did was epoxy a push-to-fit vinyl coupler to the end of the pump, then attached the vinyl tubing to the coupler

 

You can see what I mean here: http://nerfhaven.com...ider/?hl=raider

 

You can compare how I attached the vinyl tubing by looking/comparing the pictures in the first and last post. The last post shows what I mean about gluing the coupler to the pump.