Here is my Crossfire, modded to be pump action.
The gun cocks by pulling the barrel back, then forward.

It shoots about 40ft flat, not to bad for a 5" long pistol.

Just finished modding my vintage super soaker Max-D 6000.
Mods done:
CPVC coupler
Air tank plugging
Water tank removed
Minor shell modification

Finally, some pictures.



CPVC coupler and barrel:



Here is where the water tank used to be:

Here is my new creation: the hamtch. It uses the full metal catch I designed.

Here is my Vulc-ling gun, a crank operated vulcan.

My overhauled element:

My removable turret modded hyperfire:

Langley Edit: This thread is for pictures, not discussion!

Here is my double secret strike. It is stupid and impractical, but it sure is fun!


All parts are connected with super glue.

Behold, the vulcling gun.



You crank here to fire the gun. One turn, one shot




My 15 volt, super stampede. Mods: Ar removed, Tech Target spring, 15 volts.(10 AA batteries) It gets around 65 to 70 feet flat.




Custom battery pack.




Cut down front.

Here is a NF that I modded for a friend:

It shoots about 50FT flat with the stock plunger tube.

Here is my SGN-R3L, originaly built by Sgnerf. It has the exact spring he used. And gets about 100-120ft flat.



Custom handle.



Multiple catch points.

Here is a description video of my version of Boltsnipers Fast Action Rifle. Two weeks of work really paid off

Here is my afternoon project from today:


Yep, thats cardboard. The gun shoots all of 10 feet.


Writeup coming soon! (and possibly a video, if enough people want to see it shoot)

I just finished the RAD-V1 and here are a couple spoiler pics before the writeup is posted.

18 shot Magazine:






The gun:




Pulley trigger system:

Hyperfire[url=http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22382]Removable turret mod[/url]

I have found that smaller Home Depots don't carry thin-wall pvc.

Although this is not exactly a WHERE TO BUY post, I belive it is fairly important information regarding a product. Do NOT buy the OMW vulcan upgrade spring. I bought one, and after fireing a few belts, the plunger rod snaped in half.

Cool! I have been waiting for these things to come out since I frst saw them. (I will most definitly have to check my local TRU) Do you have any of the elite darts? If so, could you post a few pics, I'd really like to see how the're different than normal streamlines.

Turning a semi-auto ten dart gun into a full auto, clip-fed beast.

This is probably the most ambitious mod I have ever attempted.

First almost all of the internals were removed in preparation for the mod.

The dart pusher mechanism consists of a Lego worm gear box, driven by a 18 volt motor. The box turns a gear with half the teeth filed off on one side. As the gear turns, the teeth catch a PVC bar which also has teeth. The bar is connected to a spring that is stretched as the bar moves forward.


The connected gear pushes the bar until it turns to its blank side. By this time the bar has pushed a dart fully into the spinning flywheels and the dart is fired. When the gear is not engaged with the bar, the spring pulls it to its original position and the process is repeated.



In order for this to work there must be a constant supply of darts to the pusher. With the original rotation mechanism for the barrel removed, the only way for sufficient dart delivery was to make the blaster clip-fed. I figured the best way to make a stable clip holder was to use one from a stock clip gun.

An alpha trooper donated its handle and clip holder in exchange for a coveted spot in the spare parts bin. The original handle was removed from the barricade. The alpha handle and clip holder were dremeled to a perfect fit and glued in.

Once the flywheels were moded with tape to accommodate steamline darts, and the voltage had been raised to nine volts, the gun was ready to fire.

When I tested the gun, the flywheels screamed with speed. With a Stampede clip fully loaded, I pulled the trigger. A stream of darts sprayed out of the gun emptying the clip in two seconds. Unfortunately, I didn’t take pictures during the process so I can’t make a detailed mod guide, but I hope you can use this as inspiration and make your own fully automatic clip-fed Barricade.I'll be posting a vid of it shooting soon.

The full auto is impressive but those shots are angled and why did you cut the vid before you measured?

Either way, doesn't matter. Great full auto mod.

I had to get more extention cord for the camera, as you can see in the latter part of the video. I did't think about getting enough to go all the way at first. As for it being angled; you try to hold a card-board box over a camera, and the cord for the camera, then shoot straight. In the rain. In the cold. Anyways, only the last few shots were really angled, as they don't exactly matter. The fist couple were only angled a few degrees, not enough to make a huge difference. On a nice day, with fresh batteries, it could shoot even further. But, enough with claims abought how good my gun is, range dosn't matter very much in hvz.

100ft? On a flywheel blaster??? Sounds sketchy

Since it seems this thread is alive again, here goes. All ranges were tested level with the ground, which was also relativly level. The furthest shooting dart went 118ft. It might be worthwhile to mention that I measured the distance with toothpicks. Is that sketchy enough for you?

is it possible for you to upload the "Cleaner" photos for this mod? As previously mentioned by someone else, I'd like to be able to replicate it, but at the moment, it looks hard to do that. Just to get a concept of how you attached pieces and stopped them floating about freely.

Here are a few extra photos that I managed to scrap out of an old SD card. The quality isn't great, but the're all I have. I dropped the gun down the stairs at a war....by by gun :sob:

Here is an enlarged version of the pic in the original post.

That is all I have.

Ok, I really hate to be negative I'm calling BS here.

You are saying that this gun runs off 9v square cell and get 100-120ft ranges? This is not possible with stock motors and flywheels with a little etape.

And have you made this gun? How can you say it is impossible? 9 volts is twice the original voltage, plus, the gun is also using streamlines which get much better ranges than sonic darts.

That is one of the most mental modifications I've seen for a FNG...I don't see why SUCH a fast RoF is required though. Any ranges?

It gets an average of about 100 to 120 feet, no joke. The fast ROF is handy when a hoard of zeds are rushing at you.

I was going to do something like this but then I realized that I'd be better off just doing a homemade flywheel gun.

I'm mean props to you for doing this but why keep the weak motors and tiny flywheels when you redid everything else?

The flywheel motors are running at nine volts, and have a few layers of electrical tape on them to help them grip the darts. The original voltage would not be able to keep the flywheels up to speed for more than five or six darts.

What's the accuracy like on that thing? Is it just typical of streamlines or is the blaster part of the determining factor? Can you fire stephans with it?

To be realistic, I like to see creative mods like this, and mods in general, but it looks like your dremel attacked your barricade, your spare parts bin took a crap on the remains, and your hot glue gun vomited all over the thing.

The accuracy is what you would expect from streamline darts; terrible, but if the first dart dosn't hit them, the next 17 will. Stephens are not really a option, since the dart pusher has a trajectory just long enough for the stock darts. I actually cleaned it up a few days back and will post a pic soon.

Here is the range video.

I don't think this comparison has been made yet, but it sounds like it functions (the arm anyways) like a swarmfire plunger. Would this comparison be correct?

Yes, it is quite like a swarmfire firing mech...or the stampede....or the vulcan. With a half toothed gear catching the plunger rod and pushing it forward.

Why not just post a video of you range testing it? That should shut up any nay-sayers and add further validity.
In an attempt to get people to focus less on statistical values of this mod, how strong was the spring used to push (or pull?) the arm?

I wish I could make a video, in fact I am kicking myself for not making one before I broke the gun. Oh well. Back on topic; the gun used a maverick priming handle spring to pull the dart pusher back into position.

If his ranges are BS what do you think the odds are of that mass of plastic and hot-glue actually functioning?

ENOUGH. ENOUGH. ENOUGH. I am now very annoyed. It is one thing to say that the ranges are wrong, but to say that the gun dosn't work at all is going too far. I am going to fix the gun. It may take five sticks of hot glue but I don't care. Come back tomorrow and I will have a range and function video up.

http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-barricade-mod-guide.html

So you are saying that the extra .6 volts adds 68ft?

On top of that 9v square cells (~650 amps) would have much less amps than 8.4v of trustfires.

I'm going to go ahead and just call you out on this. You did not get over 100ft using a 9v square cell to power the flywheels. Many people have added a 9v to a barricade and all of them say, ~50ft.

Also streamlines preform horribly with more powerful higher range blasters. They are notorious for getting poor ranges and accuracy.

Unless you are using something or doing something that I missed there is pretty much no way that this happened.

Ahhhhh, here you go again. First, sgnerf's barricade ranges were taken with stock sonic micros, which have less range than streamlines. The streamlines that I use all have a .20g airsoft pellet shoved into the tip, making them much more stable in flight. I must argue that streamlines(even stock ones) get better ranges than any other stock nerf dart, although you are right about the accuracy.
Second, I hope you meant 650 MILLIAMPS, not amps. 650 AMPS is how much amperage a car battery has. Though sg's barricade's batteries have a higher discharge rate than a standard 9v cell, the motors in the barricade pull a very small amount of current, not needing a lot of amperage. Although, sgnerfs batteries would last longer than my 9v cell. I really don't care if you belive me or not. I don't even have the gun anymore.

I don't think replacing the motors would even matter if you are running them off a 9v square cell with those small flywheels I don't think it's even possible to get 100-120ft.

I said the furthest firing dart went 118ft. Some darts went 80ft others 110ft. Maybe you don't think that it is possible, but I know what I have measured.

Just wanted to note that it's the same as the 2nd bullPAC and also the rubber band blaster, but not so much the 1st bullPAC, whose catch was somewhat similar to Atomatrons lever catch (ERTL?), and whose rod seal was merely "drill a hole of about the right size". Scroll down in that thread to see a picture of the 2nd bullPAC, as well as the rubber band blaster in assembled and disassembled state. Or just look down here to see a picture and diagram of the handle/catch as applied to the rubber band blaster:
Snip: image

The catch spring was rubber-band kludged here, and the housing block didn't come about until the 3rd bullPAC, of which only the handle was ever posted in the picture thread. As per usual, I didn't actually plan it out in advance so the catchspring housing just ended up taped on and looks much worse than Ryan's slick sandwich housing.

Might I suggest you take a peek at this: http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=23365' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>Crossbow The catch I used in the crossbow is only one piece, and is capable of holding a 30lb draw longbow.

EDIT: all credit for the catch goes to Meaker IV.

Thanks.

About the advanced mods, I'm not sure if there is any "advanced" mods for the Longstrike. If you want your Longstrike to shoot 70's, I'd say OMW all the way. Even if you don't get their kits, their springs are excellent. I just titled it "Basic Mods" because they are just the standard mods that you do in any blaster, I just made a guide on how to do them, specifically in a Longstrike.

OMW kits are not really mods, they are stronger replacement parts. An advanced mod would be something like a brass barrel/breech, or a power-stock.
Anyway, back on topic, great mod guide! Nice clear pics, and comprehensive instructions. Good job!

Nice Idea! Does the range decrease after doing this fix?

The reason I ask is because it seems that this mod would decrease the launch tube's grip on the dart. And that would not allow as much pressure to build up behind the dart before firing, which might adversely affect the range.

Congratulations, on winning. This is a very clean gun. Any ranges?

These are more painful than VANS or slugs, but less painful than glue domes. They fly as far as glue domes. And I consider them to be safer than slugs, even though they normally hurt more.

If these silicone darts are more painful than metal-weighted slugs; why make them?

I wonder if it would be possible to replicate larger objects/crossbow shells. Sure, it would take a huge amount of oogoo and casting material, but it would quickly pay for itself. After all, once you made one mold, you could use it many times.

I love all the things we (really just shmee) are using Oogoo for. Great work.

@Hoidar Keeping the Oogoo from sagging in the middle would be very hard, and you would get much thinner or even nonexistent parts of the shell in the center. Some kind of hard mold material would work, and if it's a putty, you don't need to have the container and could use much less material. Cutting it open though...maybe make the two sides separately?

And really, what's with this community's obsession over crossbow shells?

Why would the oogoo sag in the middle? If you are making the mold in a large bin, on a table or floor, how could it sag? It's not like you would cast it in the same paper-thin plastic detailed here.

Has anybody just twisted out the pegs with pliers? I really don't want to open it up until I get a second to do a full re-barrel. I have a war next week and just want to be able to shoot streamlines.

Just try it and see. If it doesn’t work you can just use mysterio’s method.

So if all you're doing here is removing the pegs, why not just twist them off with needle-nose pliers? What's the benefit of also taking out the plate that they are attached to?

By removing the plates you allow for a bit more airflow.

You shoud really name them Aurora Borealis and Aurora Australis.

This gives me an excuse to finish the Nite-Mav that I started way back when. Granted I would have to completely rip off the top, but still.