Aww. A lot of video editing programs allow you to flip around the orientation of the vid. But still. 

Use a straw attached to the barrel, and loosely wrap a paper tube around it and tape it closed. Glue that on top of something and you can slide the tube over the straw, pump up and shoot. You would need less pumps than usual due to the airplane probably being able to glide fairly well with a little thrust.

Who in Nerfhaven do you think has designed/built the most homemades? I am not sure, but first place would probably go to EZlin/3DBBQ, with probably Carbon, Captain Slug and maybe Zero Talent all taking up the next few spots. What do you think?

I would probably limit it to around 3 easy to memorize classes. That's all I can remember when I am playing TF2 XP but really, if you have a whole bunch of limitations and things on people abilities and guns, it's hard to keep it straight. Think of Amtgard classes. Everyone ha different weapon abilities and spells and levels and all this shit and it's hard to memorize.

I use paper routinely for elastic band powered launchers (writeup coming soon), they are direct power so they need a loose fit. I also sometimes make blowguns for wars with my friends out of paper. On the topic of the tape barrel thing, I believe Carbon or someone did a ballgun barrel, and he used tape to make the ball tighter in the barrel for better range.

Not sure any MTB's are good for anything other than LiPo or similar, from what I have heard.

Rewire if you are going with 3 IMR's is best. IIRC Coop ran 3 IMR's + 1 dummy on a completely stock blaster, except for maybe thermistors. You will probably eventually kill the motors on 3 IMR's, but as long as you don't like rev for like a minute straight, you will be fine for the short term. If you don't thermistor, 2 IMR's is best for now, most likely.

Maybe you could also do some cool stuff with a microcontroller for the LEDs and stuff. I do a bunch of Arduino stuff, and you could probably wire up the lights to do some pattern, I've done some stuff like that.

PAS? But at that kind of difficulty (heard it's difficult) might as well build a SNAP. If you try to hopper a springer you will most likely need extensive mods and a modded wye, Brithop or maybe Zorn's Lemma's Optimal Wye. TL:DR probably not worth the effort.

From my limited understanding of this, you would simply have to adjust the way you cut up the brass, to accommodate whatever dart length you have on hand.

Probably fill with epoxy putty and drill like Vaan said. 

1. Find PVC/ABS/PEX/whatever pipe that fits the rival mags loosely/snugly.

2. Find endcaps to fit on the ends.

3. Cut the pipe to lengths that will leave some magazine to grab.

4. Put endcaps on each pipe.

This is probably how it would go.

You could glue them together, put loops, whatever.

Is it truly non-salvageable? Superglue? If not, I don't think there are many options for you. Maybe model + 3d print a mold for silicone casting? If you can send me some measurements for it and some notes I could try, we have a 3d printer here at school and I have some silicone caulk. Hmm. No idea tho.

Darn that's expensive. If you have enough money to buy that why not make a +Bow? I know people mght not have the tools, but still, WHY? The only conceivable reason I could think of is if you are a collector.

As far as I know, Kane only sold foam to metal-free dart makers (darts like sillydomes, maybe AMIORS or VANS) but nowadays has stopped doing this. If you really want some PM or email him or something.

If you can find it, Krylon Fusion (I think that's what it's called) can be found in quite a few stores up here in Canada, just saw some yesterday at Canadian Tire when I went to get some bike tire repair patches. Apparently it's very good for PJ's.

If you are in Canada, try Value Village. It's hit or miss, once I only found some crap buzzbee ballgun but last week I saw a vortex praxis, another vortex pistol, some little know Darth Vader Nerf brand single shot, a Furyfire-like Nerf brand, stock yellow recon with nothing else, a Titan, a manual crank up flywheel ballgun, and a Tommy 20. All were $5 CAD or under, but I only picked up the titan.

Do upgrade the catch spring, and maybe pad the plunger head with some foam or rubber. Haven't worked on springers much though.

Sweet! What stores has it been seen in?

Step 1. Shove screwdriver through slot in the right place

Step 2. Pull back to prime. 

One of my friends did this, he later threw the Maverick out though.

The actual catch should be fine, unless you decide to put some rediculous spring in it, but if any problems arise they would most likely be with the catch spring being too weak. This will probably not be a problem (no idea as I am only a flywheeler as of now) with that spring load, but If you decide to put something stronger, do consider upgrading the catch spring.

Firstly, if you want to collect some money charge a nominal fee, like $5 per war or maybe like $20 monthly membership. To get more people invite friends to join. Tell them to tell their friends to join too.

In a thread from last month, Shmmee commented about a Wyoming nerf group that registered as a non-profit.

 

You might see some unexpected doors opening if you register as a non-profit. If local businesses donate anything to your group they'll be able to write off the expenses on their tax forms. Theirs a wyoming nerf group that has really taken off recently and since they've registered as a non-profit they've had several buisnesses donating everything from gift cards to by ammo to NIB blasters. They've also seen tremendous support from their counties parks department in the form of free venues to nerf in. You'll also be able to get group insurance on the cheap.

You may wish to look into this.

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The question when you are trying to justify a weird variation on a functional design isn't 'why not' it's 'why?'

I know, jut providing some food for thought. Like lasagna.
On second thought, you wouldn't need the magnet on the vatch, the screw would be attracted to the magnet.

Why not use the magnet as a catch spring? Mag in the handle, mag on the catch to pull towards the handle mag. A rainbow would probably be best for this.

Does seem cool, but maybe a bit impractical. I know you can get insanely strong magnets online, but from my limited knowledge the kind of magnet that can jump at another one from ~4 inches away depending on draw would be way too big and heavy for this to get any sort of good performance.

True. Those coilgun things can put projectiles through a lot of things, and if the front bushing + plunger rod didn't rip out of the gun, the whole PT might come out, a spinning, eye killing, sharp edged piece of plastic tubing.

Now that I think of it, a Coilgun style setup could work, with the coils propelling a plunger forward instead of a metal projectile, but I would be worried about a return mech for the head. However, this could have the potential for an automatic "Springer" gun. Still, you shouldn't mess around with coilgun stuff until you can safely handle super dangerous voltages and currents. Essentially if you don't have the knowledge of a liscensed electrician, treat with caution. Seriously.
Edit: Or just do away with a plunger and use the coils to accelerate a metal weighted dart, like a regular slug. Could make for a simple semiauto clipfed, but still remember that at this kind of current and voltage will most likely kill you super dead if you mess up, like uber dead. Do I really need to restate this?

You should probably post this to Modification Pictures. One thing that doesn't make sense is that you cut off the saw, which is pretty much the only thing separating this thing from a reshelled RoughCut. 

http://www.jspb3d.co...-parts-download

A link to the files for B&B, free from the site. I believe the kit is meant for people who don't have access to a printer but want to battle with one of these.

I actually saw someone argue that soda bottles are acceptable pressure vessels - better than PVC. Soda is usually carbonated so they *do* retain pressure and the guy arguing said they fail by splitting, not exploding.

It would make sense. I mean They are much thinner and weaker, which means they would hold less pressure but fail safely. If you were really worried, find a wiye diameter PVC/ABS/PEX/whatever pipe and encase the bottle. This is mostly for the 500ml bottles. But yeah. I would wonder if the pressure from the carbonated soda would be negligible in this.

Any blaster a little pudgy arround the sides would probably need some more space. Still, now that the idea is out why not 3D print a side by side clip holder? I'll be sure to get working on this.... hehe

Nice. Packing one of those things in a DTC round would be horrifying. I might just be shooting my mouth off here but I think you might need a 4S to run the blower thing. 3S is rated to 11.1 V, but 4S is like 14.8 V. No idea tho.

What about a mag shaped like a U, with a drum style pusher mech so it can go around the curve?

You could take flat plastic sheets, make the 2 stick pieces of the U, then bend some more sheet or 3d print a addapter for the curve.

Or you could take 2 18 mags and chop off the bottom of one, slap on a printed adapter for the curve, then chop off the top of the other mag and put that side into the other end of the curve adapter.

Something like this could work. I remember this promotional thing I got at some event, it was a pen with this tape measure sort of thing with a flat piece of this material as the measure instead of a concave shape.

I think that with your blaster, you should tone down the fire rate. Don't want to blow your whole load in one go, it would be a PAIN to reload. You would ideally not need to reload for a whole round/game, but this may not be realistic.

The easiest rebarrel in the world. The paper barrel slides over the Titan barrel threads.

Nice. Is that actually licorice? If so, then lol. If not, then still uber-awesome rail.

I believe Worker sells RC gears, or you could order a metal print from Shapeways for the gears - I believe there are RC gear files out there.

Are you following an Australian/SG/whatever writeup? If so, link to it. I could see what kind of stuff you could use in place of the conduit/other parts.