My 5 minute jury rigged pump-action retaliator.

I have "two" accounts on steam- kilomona and drstrange8912. I play robocraft on drstrange8912, and tf2 and unturned on kilomona. I have a laptop... Dont know the exact specs but it has i7 quad core processor and gets 30 frames on most games while running skype and a browser.

Alright, please don't suspend/ban me for seeming like a scam, but a while ago I bought a bunch of steam codes. I have only used some of them. They are cheap like, $5-$10 games but hey, I'm giving them away! PM me if interested.

I pm'ed you a week ago.

What about just a very basic shell? I don't know if that's what spud is talking about, but just a shell with no inside ridges or anything. Then people could simply put their desired internals inside.

Why add leak holes? We're not making toys for little kids, are we? That's the reason for how ventilated the Dualstrike is.

Because something shooting megas at competitive speeds for NIC wars would probably destroy stock darts.

Not sure how easily the inside of a shell could be compatible with different styles of internals, but I like where that's heading. Big ideas, crazy ideas are some of the best ones. As seen on the centurion, micro mag well installation is possible. What I'm wondering however, is the practical application of this. Are we talking about a blaster people just buy and select their parts, and have a blaster ready to build shipped to them? Are we talking about stock caliber, when talking about elites and megas as you mentioned, or NIC style like some of the others?

I was thinking a Dualstrike type system, with the capability to fire megas and stock caliber darts depending on the barrel. Of course, leak holes might need to be installed for shooting elites.

Im not very experienced with homemade's or xbows/tornado bows, However couldnt you just cut down a longshot and add a stock attachment then someone can 3d print a crossbow foregrip and stock witch can then be attached (the grip with epoxy or something similar).

You could, but that's not the point of this thread.

DON'T QUOTE THE PICTURES IF THEY'RE IN THE POST IMMEDIATELY ABOVE YOU, YOU DUMMY.

- ICE NINE

That is niiiice. Is it 3D printed? And do you have internals to put into it to test the strength? I don't think it won't matter as much for the tornado, as the internal parts take most of the stress, but it would be nice to see some good progress.

As for the aluminum casting, what about modeling shells in foam? We could experiment with small, less detailed shells like the SSPB, or print shells in flammable filaments ( if such a thing exists).

Apologies if this has been brought up before, but how could acetone vapor smoothing or epoxy resin smoothing 3D prints affect this? We all know we don't want the rough texture of 3D printed parts that haven't been sanded, and they remain weak in between layers, but acetone vapor smoothing would both bind the layers better and smooth the outside without removing material. Drawbacks of this method include the required use of ABS plastic, and the toxic and flammable fumes, of course. Resin smoothing would bond the layers even better, adding considerable strength, and smooth them out. Either of these methods help the practicality of making negative molds without bubbles between the layers of the print, and general use of 3D printed parts. Hand mixed silicon could be poured over a smoothed 3D print to make a very high resolution mold, or the printed part could be used in greensand (special sand for aluminum casting) to make aluminum shells. Just wanted to throw that out.

 

Here's a video by tested on using silicon molds to recreate 3D printed parts in resin. For full size nerf blasters, you would need a lot of materials, but we could "mass-produce" parts.
The drawback to this method is as far as I know, you need a solid piece, so shells would be a challenge.
 

I guess I'll throw my 2 cents in here. Once an accurate scan is made of an external shell component is made it could be used with resin to cast a block of resin with an outer pattern on it. That could then be inserted in to pre-made fixture and spots could be machined in place relatively quickly and inexpensively. If you make the inside a blank canvas so to speak, you could drop in internals which are "self-contained" and can be swapped in place easily. At least that's one method I am thinking of. Another is injection molding. If you have a relatively simple design the mold is not nearly as expensive. It gets expensive when you need all kinds of ejector pins, super high tolerances, and fancy designs. I work in a shop that makes molds for injection molding as well as does them. From my experience, this is what creates cost very fast. I have seen pieces the size of an eraser cost 200$ each, and there are 16 of them in some molds. Bottom line is injection molding IS a possibility if you plan ahead.

Hehe, it sounds like you live up to your name. In your experience, how much would you estimate a mold of 4 very basic Retaliator size shell halves would cost? No screw holes, minimal nooks/crannies, and comparable thickness to nerf shells.

 

What we really need is to get HeartFox(x?)Nerf in on this conversation. He/she has already printed a crossbow stock, and not only that, but made it able to go onto stock blasters and added attachment pieces. Printing a shell piece by piece, like the OP post, could make printing viable. That said, a job like that begs someone who is willing to do a nightmare's worth of modeling and trial and error.
 

For handles could likely use a take away from certain nerf guns and have those portions of the shell removable while the trigger system or any other stays totally in place.

Yeah, like a base plunger system with a priming mech and barrel as the base, then handles, stocks, barrel extensions, etc could be added as modular pieces. Maybe even a magwell could be a piece if the base part had a breech.

What's that sound? Oh... It's the sound of cintage blaster shell prices everywhere dropping. Both a good thing and a bad thing, but I think it's great! Expensive platforms can now be made and sold for much cheaper than the real thing. Only downside is collector prices, but still not super bad.

Does the conveyor belt run on seperate motors? If so, people could speed up or slow down the rate of fire as desired by adding new motors.

Just btw, double post

 

USER IS DISLIKED FOR BACKSEAT MODERATING

THANKS FOR CONTRIBUTING TO THE TOPIC.

Indoor/Outdoor Superstock (wars with basic level mods on guns, allowing stock guns): dual hammershots with spring spacers, removed ars,and removed dart posts( sometimes remove the spacers for ease of one hand priming). Secondary: holstered doublestrike/persuader/4victory.
Indoor Stock( no mods): primary: stryfe. Secondary: firestrike. Final plan: triad.
Outdoor Stock: Dual hammershots, secondary strongarm. Maybe a triad/jolt.
Both of the loadouts that use dual hammershots usually are weaker against flywheel blasters in close quarters. I usually have them on paracord slings i make the day before the war. These loadouts are tested in small wars of 5-10 people-not much of a community in my area- and i have used the indoor loadout the most, with the superstock wars being less common due to other people not owning modified blasters.


P.S. Running 5 modified jolts sounds like a bad idea but..... It is a VERY bad idea. If you are trying to PwN everyone else. What it is though, is satisfying when you "kill" 3 people in under 30 seconds.

Homemades.

Okay. Well since I started this thread, it only seems appropriate that I update it. 
 
My Sentinel and Zeus came in the mail a few days ago.  A few comments about them.
 
First the Sentinel.  I'm going to admit, I'm slightly disappointed with this blaster.
 
When I opened the box, the design seemed cheap and flimsy. Not a huge deal, as I anticipated this. That can be dealt with if one were motivated to do so. 
 
When I fired it, it became clear that comments about its power and rage were not baseless. It certainly has
that going for it.
 
The main issue is the accuracy/consistency of the shots. I set up small lotion tubes on the fireplace mantle, and took some well controlled shots from a distance of 15 feet away.  After firing the entire magazine, none of the shots hit, even when I shifted my point of aim to adjust for apparent trajectory, the darts still wouldn't travel in a consistent enough path to land any hits.  For comparison, I picked up my Jolt, and fired from the same position. I hit my targets 17 out of 20 shots. 
 
The last issue is that my Sentinel is very jam prone. Not only is the blaster touchy, as it can be difficult to work the action, but I've had several jams where darts got mangled inside the blaster. Perhaps this is just a poor model I received, or the design is just lackluster.
 
My Jolt outperformed the Sentinel in terms of accuracy. Perhaps someone should build a platform around the Jolt instead.   It does go to illustrate the fact that, much like in real deal firearms, power and velocity are not necessarily synonymous with accuracy.  In fact, in many real rifles, the more accurate target shooters fire lower velocity ammunition rather than higher. 

I would guess your sentinel was a lemon (anomaly). Also, have you tried switchjng ammunition types? Or using alternate darts? The sentinel is sometimes seen as inaccurate when using elite darts, which are not accurate themselves. Fvjs, slugs, koosh, and other homemade/alternate darts are much more accurate than elites or large suctions. Also, Jolts are excellent firing well made glue domes.

I can also try to post some pics of my project if anyone's curious.

I certainly am, that method of stock extension sounds very interesting.

If you already have the velcro/whistler darts, a 2 1/2 blowgun made of 1/2 inch PVC should be great. I have a 3 1/2 foot one I sometimes mess around with that has good grouping and range, and no one should be suspicious of anything like a short white plastic pipe.

That's good knowledge for further development. The blaster I'm designing is meant to be like a stryfe sized Zeus with Apollo style magazine placement. I've been trying to reduce the flywheel size but I might end up needing the 360 sized motors. However with the increased ball compression, I guess the flywheels will be closer together. This has turned out to be a difficult project.

I think you could use the dart pusher from a rapidstrike to feed the HIRs (after you figure out the flywheel problem). I think it would fit sideways in a stryfe size shell behind the clip/magazine near where the dart pusher assembly is on a stryfe. Also, Ireally like your idea.

I woul guess you fried your motors with the mix of chemical energy (or whatever the term is). You probably can fix it with a rewire. On the topic of batteries, I have only used ultrafires. They have worked the best for me compared do duracell and off brand AAs.

Yeah, as 2BB says, the Buzz Bee XtremeBlastZooka. It has one of the best performance-to-size ratios out there, and is still for sale.

Still for sale? Where? I have one, but I would like more.

Kind of building on DjOnslaught's idea, what about 4 spring coils arranged in a square design? That might help with evening out the the pull on the plunger.

I think this could work with a very heavy draw, because it would accelerate quickly the whole time, perhaps even performing better than more common springs deaccelerating as they compress air. That kinda makes me want to see a spring that accelerates as it pushes... But, that sounds unrealistic.

An air blaster will literally tear elite darts apart in the barrel at that speed (trust me, I sacrificed many a dart testing my XBZ) 300 fps for any dart is much to dangerous to use on human beings with a nonlethal intent. I think 120 psi is what alot of people use for about 6-8 good shots, depending on tank size.

As you said, 3D print layers aren't chemically bonded. Could doing a sort of... Rubbing i guess? help with creating one? Like, taking a paintbrush with solvent weld on it and brushing it on the outside of the print to bond layers.

Okay, so I downloaded the file and printed one of these turrets.  It looks great, by the way. I like the styling with the open section allowing you to see the darts.  What I had not realized until now is that there are only five barrels.  This would be really awesome if it had seven, like some of the other printable cylinders.

Unless I misunderstood, you put PETG into holes made to be filled with it? If so, 7 holes seems like it would take more space than other 7 shot cylinders.

Dont know if this counts as a trick, but the Hammershot has spots not typically known that can hold extra darts/slugs/stefans. Under the turrent, the open space in frot of the little pod thingy can hold 3 darts. The sling point can hold two or three, I don't remember which.

That perfect for my cousins who don't call their hits. Edit, also, if the hole is not there, it would be more accurate, right.

Right. Problem is, if they don't have a hole anywhere then they cannot compress, causing-yup, you guessed it- pain.

Homemade rings write up

Recently, I thrifted a koosh vortex tornado missing it's sight but with it's original rings for 50 cents. I had 4 rings, but I wanted more(as always) so I made some. Disclaimer: no, this is not my original idea. Someone in the thread on making these from tape suggested using promo bands. This idea was not explored, however, until I did.
Here is a pic of what the rings will look like when you finish.
Picture at bottom
Pretty, right? No? Well, they work.
The materials you will need are as follows: Scissors, a measuring tool, rubber bracelets, scotch tape, and a heating tool(heat gun, lighter, stove, hot glue gun tip, etc.).
Pic at bottom
The first step is to cut one horizontally. Nothing too complicated here, just a simple, straight cut will do.
Then, measure and cut the band to ~5.7 inches, or 14 cm. Again, just a simple cut.
The third step is to cut a piece of tape approximately 3 inches, depending on the thickness of your bands. Wrap this around the two ends until you have 3 layers of scotch tape, and make sure it is firmly wrapped so it will stay in place while you heat it. You could stop here, if you want fragile and easily destroyed rings, but you shouldn't.
Finally, use the heating tool on the tape to get it to shrink into itself and really bond the ends together, greatly increasing the durability of your rings. This might take some practice, as the tape likes to shrink very fast.
That's my writeup on my homemade koosh vortex rings for ya. Hope my first topic was a good one.

Do you have any spinfire rings to compare the ranges?  Real spinfire rings are airfoils and taper at the back end.  They are also made up of two different durometers of silicone, one for the front portion and one for the body of the ring.  This gives the rings rigidity and stability in flight, as well as a softer material to take the impact of whatever you fire it at.  

Yes, I said that both in the topic post and my reply to 2ndbluesbro. They are essentially the same in terms of performance.

Amazing. How do they perform vs. the OG rings and how cheaply do you think these could be made?

Forgot to mention that in the topic (: . They perform almost identically, but a couple of my homemade rings consistenly go off course. I think that is due to bad tape application. They do hurt a little bit more, as they are slightly heavier amd reach completely identical ranges( no exaggeration, I just went outside to make sure and they all landed within 5 feet of each other). To answer your second question, producing these on a very large scale could become "expensive". Ordering 100 blank, hot pink, 1/2 inch, silicone wristbands costs 73.99 minimum before shipping(but you get an extra 100). 73 cents per ring isn't super bad, especially compared to genuine rings, but they come out to ~80 cents each after time and tape. Not bad, but not great. On a small scale however, you can easily keep all the bands you will inevitably get at events makes this almost free when you are just making a few.

Hi again and thank you for the amount of feedback! I will answer this in one reply (and later than I intended), because I am still limited to 3 posts a day...
 
Will it shoot all 3 darts at once, in a spread?
 
Airtanks (with compressed air, anything more powerful than the pump-it-up Nerfs) are a different category, controlled under gun law and you need to be licensed to mod any of these. No way I could use something like an airsoft gun and Put Nerf Barrels onto it...
 
Will post an update if I get anything worked out

Your first question, yes, a small one, for your second question, what's wrong with a tank you pump up?

An airtank woth a barrel and button firing pin* could work.
*term used loosely, can't think of the correct term for a button like the one on the XBZ.

In a triad, you would need a massive spring and perfect seal if you just removed the ARs. You mught as well make a small homemade that has a Nitefinder size plunger, and one barrel that has 3 darts.

Making your own isn't difficult or expensive. Coat hangers, tape, an a no cutter is really all you need.

Similar to how the koosh vortex tornado used a priming handle that pulls the rod back, but isn't attached so it can for forward again could we put a long notch on the priming rod?

You could hot glue those little poofy ball things onto the tips, but accuracy would not be 8/8. That would also allow for super powered blasters

Just do a rewire, maybe new flywheels and motors, and a lipo.