Is the tubing used in air guns such as the Titan and Hornet the vinyl tubing mentioned earlier in this thread?

That magwell loops awesome, is that a separate piece or part of the lower receiver?

A little confused on this, are you basically saying make sure that the circuit isn't going to try to draw more than the batteries are capable of out-putting?

Also, as far as the circuit is concerned, it's probably best to minimize resistance by going larger on the circuits (wire gauge, switches) than what the motors can draw/batteries can output, right? Meaning, even if 18 ga wire will work, 16 ga wire/higher amp rating components will provide a better flow... correct?

That's exactly what I'm saying if your batteries put more out then you need your better off and everything lasts longer.

Not nessacarily on the wire and resistance. Don't over complicate your circuit to increase the resistance.

It doesn't really need one. The stock motor can handle way more than the gears the motor drives can.

Like jwasko said, you need to upgrade the stampede gear cogs before you need to upgrade the motor even if you upgrade the springs.

Wow that's not what I expected, at least between the regular/pro Eneloops, figured it'd be the other way around. Guess I'll have to get the standard ones out and give it a go. Double bonus as they supposedly have more recharge cycles than the pros as well.

Would you consider it necessary to upgrade anything else running these 130's with NiMH batteries? Wiring? Switches? I know thermistors/locks/etc need to go... I was wondering if, while I have them gutted, for the sake of minimizing resistance/maximizing rev speed/time, if I should open up the circuits a bit more?

Thanks!

When using the voltage and amp output from the batteries always upgrade the wiring to a minimum of 20ga (stock blasters use 22ga) though 16-18 gauge is optimal. Switch upgrades depend on the upgrade, if the amperage is the same you can keep the stock switches if your upping that at all then a switch upgrade is called for, always remember to have you batteries output higher then the circuit wants.

As someone who is looking to both mod and make a homemade nerf gun, this project intrigues me heavily.

This continues to be my spare time hobby.  I've almost finished a home made reflow oven so that I might begin making my own PCBs. But the project is moving slow.  For that I'm sorry everyone, I know many of you have expressed interest in this endeavor.  I do intend to complete it, and I will contact you all when it is completed.
 
Thank you all!  And enjoy playing Nerf!
 
 - Technician Gimmick

Glad your still working on this buddy. I might be messaging you to do a little coding for me soon.

No not at all I love ACC darts just pointing out that I learned the hard way that they do not like flywheels   and koosh darts are good for any flywheels unless you have a flywheel gun with that "rifling" since it seems to catch the head of koosh darts and make everything terrible (so in other words you need to remove that "rifling" or sand it down to use koosh darts but it is worth it and should be done)

I meant them disliking flywheel blasters not you disliking them.

Yeah not sure if you know this or not but that has been known ever since they were first found as "chunlin" darts. If I remember correctly I was sadly one of the first to find that ACCs don't like flywheels the hard way after my demolisher decided to fling the head about 15 feet while the foam was still stuck in the magazine.

That's definitely a dislike lol. Is there a best flywheel blaster dart for the rayven?

The dart shouldn't fall out of the barrel on its own power but shouldn't be compressed in the barrel either from my understanding.

What is a Scs? I've heard of stefans and slugs but not scs.

Suction Clone Slug.  A cut down USC with the cup snipped off and a felt bumper on the head.  I still haven't finished the writeup yet, which is why I briefly explain what it is every time I mention it.

Oh ok, thanks for the explanation, maybe a breakdown for sub types of darts like these could be added to the OP for people like me.

Oh ok Snoop

Drac recently posted that he got the white crossbow shell back and was sending it to a friend he had made who was gonna scan it (hopefully successfully this time)

 

The earlier reference made to cnc'ing the crossbow shell out of something more sturdy.  I worked in a manufacturing environment for 12 years (plant shut down last year) and that option would not be cost effective for mass reproduction at a reasonable cost to anyone.  Part of the reason is that you would need a complex program for it as well as someone to stand there and change the tooling several times, you would further have price of machine rental or purchase and the coolant needed.

For handles could likely use a take away from certain nerf guns and have those portions of the shell removable while the trigger system or any other stays totally in place.

Not sure how easily the inside of a shell could be compatible with different styles of internals, but I like where that's heading. Big ideas, crazy ideas are some of the best ones. As seen on the centurion, micro mag well installation is possible. What I'm wondering however, is the practical application of this. Are we talking about a blaster people just buy and select their parts, and have a blaster ready to build shipped to them? Are we talking about stock caliber, when talking about elites and megas as you mentioned, or NIC style like some of the others?

Would have a stock caliber it came as, with the option to get the different caliber parts aside from the magwell have that stock as mega clip siced but with the elite insert already inside.

Yeah, like a base plunger system with a priming mech and barrel as the base, then handles, stocks, barrel extensions, etc could be added as modular pieces. Maybe even a magwell could be a piece if the base part had a breech.

If it's gonna be modular why not different sized magwells based on what you wanted to fire. For example insert a "mega plunger" a mega barrel and a mega magwell and now your gun shoots megas... if your really going modular make the swappable components self contained so you can do it at a war between rounds.

It's in one piece. Sorry for the shit photo. I'll take more tonight.

I really dig the look of the blaster Slug

Why the ziptie instead of a solid piece to hold it in place, is it because you want the barrel to be changed extremely easily?

The only benefits I see ESC's having to nerf is the possible use of electronic braking and possibly making it so that the motors are always spinning at a low rpm to reduce flywheel spin up times.

Having the motors constantly spin at low rpm to reduce rev time is one of those things that all flywheel blasters should have as a feature.

 
And perhaps brushless technology makes it feasible (from a sound and efficiency standpoint)

Definitely likely from a sound perspective, not familiar enough with the innards of them to know efficiency or lifespan of them.

I think the electronics needed to use the esc to create a select fire method requires a bit more in depth wiring and a total controller like a arduino

Jwasko your battery knowledge is always useful on things like this though.

interesting use for the regulated power supply...  is that only because of the size of the battery your using??

You got a product name for that regulator? The 6 dollar pre-built one?

OK I saw those on amazon.. I'll likely use one just in case I upgrade my power source later. Is the little board down next to the battery a inverter or something?

What all is in the tray on the board i see the nano but what else is there?

Fold out and able to attach to either side

I'm glad I'm not the only one who was thinking about using part of the battery tray as a board mount location. I'm likely gonna utilize an Uno r3 in my stampede because of that fact.

Im glad yours is coming together, and I like the look of your display. Are you going to put a hole in the barrel for the IR sensing or are you gonna mount it differently?

We've already talked and talked about how we wanna do this, though yours is much further along then mine we have similiar plans for it.

You can use just a stepper motor and a pusher arm in a rapidstrike and eliminate the huge box completely if you wanted to since steppers can go forward and backwards without much work.

I'm hesitant to remove that door but I might look into it also

Pwm?

Not unless you were using a stepper motor or servo for the pusher with a really short arm so the entire back end was clear (would only work for a stryfe) and might still require going to a external battery pack.

Nah i wasnt happy with having the tray going in and out with all the parts in a decent way. So ended up removing the rear of the tray from the main part and just used the bay instead.
 
Yes that is a switch, just a dpst, but only using one side.
 
That wire on the spring isnt fully fitted yet, was just laid on top for sizing by length. It will go underneath the spring and be glued down out of the way.

The tray thing makes sense, what's the switch for power on off? It's really coming together, can't wait to see it finished

Dude, that looks amazing. I'm still trying to figure out my fire control mech for select fire, but might forgo it and add it later.

Turned out amazing dude, I need a larger secondary board to set my regulator, header, nano and stuff on then I'll throw up some images of what I got going on with mine.

Yours has turned out amazing and I'm glad I could help and thankful you inspired to change a few things I was gonna do.

Found a h=bridge locally!

 

Current state:

 

Are you not mounting the boards in the battery tray anymore???  It looks really clean, didn't think you were keeping the mag locks installed.  What kinda switch is that back on the battery tray end {if it's a switch that is.)  

I'm concerned your access door wire getting damaged by he recoil{reset} spring on the plunger tube also, is there a way to route it underneath that??

That sounds about right as to what prolly happened.

These look interesting for a nano. The size is about the same as a Uno, but the good part is that where each pin is broken out to the headers, they also have a +V and GND for each pin.

 

Handy when you want to connect multiple extras.

 

When you get this post a underside picture, cause then we can work on a schematic for making our own which could be useful for anyone using the nano, since it makes replacement easy, and if we can get it sized right might be able to make it small enough to work in any gun.

Holy crap bro, that's crazy. Hopefully a h bridge fixes the problem. Might just need to regulate the voltage with a actual voltage regulator though.

Turned out awesome.