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#250041 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 09 September 2009 - 11:12 PM in Modifications

The original barrel stabilizer piece works well to straighten the barrels on the AT3k.

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#315273 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 05 May 2012 - 08:16 PM in Modifications

Video


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#203612 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 15 January 2009 - 05:26 PM in Modifications

Here are a few of my workable mods:

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An SM750 integrated into an NF shell. I find this much more comfortable than the SM750 shell.


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An NF with an AT2k integration. The NF has a new spring, a better O-Ring and an internal CPVC coupler. The AT2k has a PVC coupler, airflow mod and a plugged pump. The trigger fires both guns. The NF gets around 75'. I haven't range tested the AT2k. I thought about cutting down the pump, but I think its more practical with a full-sized pump (although it looks more silly).


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My main primary and sidearm. Nothing too fancy here.



#263849 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 30 January 2010 - 11:52 PM in Modifications

Mod party results. Attendees: Myself, Busta, and atomatron. atomatron did most of the modding.


Doubleshot. Gets about 60ft.

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Expand-A-Blast. Gets about 80-90ft

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Clear longshot breech.

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SuperMAXX 250

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Tri-barrel SS1

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Tacticool 3k

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Ryan approved! (Probably Ryan!)

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#267298 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 27 February 2010 - 10:28 PM in Modifications

For when you absolutely have to be a dick.

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#249466 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 03 September 2009 - 12:55 AM in Modifications

My take on rork's Mega Missile Decrapification:

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#346673 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 10 May 2015 - 08:23 PM in Modifications

Hoppers don't work too well on 2k's, but RSCB clips do.

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#245303 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 03 August 2009 - 02:50 PM in Modifications

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#278589 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 25 June 2010 - 10:49 PM in Modifications

A Titan pistol. This gun was a lot of fun to make. The pump is a bike pump from Kmart, and it works very well.

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#233061 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 28 May 2009 - 02:26 PM in Modifications

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I was playing around with my SuperMAXX 350 today and threw some CPVC couplers on the front, as well as widened the airflow path between the plunger and the turret. I wanted to experiment with barrel lengths, and found that my ranges maxed out at 40' with 1.5" barrels. Meh.



#307230 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 11 November 2011 - 12:54 AM in Homemades

^^ Also cool, and also looking forward to your writeup.

A fourth-generation version of my SNAP2 design. Construction is now highly streamlined, to the point where I can build one of these in under an hour. Writeup.

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#306949 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 04 November 2011 - 02:49 PM in Homemades

Testing platform. Chrono's in the mail, data on Monday.

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#298523 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 24 May 2011 - 05:39 PM in Homemades

I've been working on an update to my pump-action SNAP, and have something of a mk2 version ready:

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Instead of using fragile hard-to-find 1-1/4" thinwall PVC for the grip section, this verion uses three 1-1/2" PVC couplers. Gorilla tape holds them together very firmly, so much so that I completely skipped my plan to epoxy them together. The center ridges inside the coupler need to be sanded down just a bit with the dremel before they will slide freely, but it is not very much work.

Instead of using cross-bar for priming, I simply use a 10-24 screw. The one pictured is too long, so I had to prop it up using nuts - a 5/8" screw should be just about the correct length. This is a hell of a lot easier to make than the cross-bar design, since you only need to cut one slot, and that slot doesn't need to be off-center.

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The most prominent feature is that the body extends all the way to the end of the barrel. The barrel is supported on one end by the hopper, and at the tip by a bunch of couplers, so that it does not wobble independently from the blaster. The front end is robust enough that you can use the blaster as a goddamn war club if you really wanted to.

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The hopper sticks out of a slot, and plugs into an internal coupler. You need to dremel down the upper edges so that it will fit.

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The hopper is offset, so that you can aim directly down the length of the blaster without anything obscuring your vision. Very easy to aim.

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The internals are the same as my other SNAP, so you can follow that thread if you want to build one. Also dry-fireable, because why not? And because someone is going to ask: the barrel is 12", and the entire blaster is 3-1/2 feet long.



#307277 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 12 November 2011 - 01:21 PM in Homemades

Langley: I recognize that those 5/8" ID washers are difficult to come by, some I'm developing an alternate method for making them which uses the standard 1/4" ID washers. I'm working on my new writeup right now, and should be done by tonight.

Anyways, here's what I came to post: Baby SNAP. It's a shortened SNAPbow mk5, and uses a 3 inch spring with 1.5" of draw. It clocks in at about 120fps on the chrono, which is enough to give it ranges of 70-80ft.

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#307048 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 06 November 2011 - 07:51 PM in Homemades

Firing video

It's a Reverse SNAP, basically similar to Carbon's SNAP 4. Just a rough prototype for now, but a friend of mine was really eager to try this concept, so we whipped it up this afternoon. It's powered by ACE#49 springs (basically identical to k26s), and hits about 130fps on the chrono (80-90ish feet). There's a lot of dead space in this setup, but whatever. I was expecting this layout to be an ergonomic catastrophe, but I was pleasantly surprise at how easy it was to prime. The recoil is strange, but very controllable.

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Here's some internals. Nothing special on the right-side, just a standard SNAP. On the left side, you see the priming bolt which the grip pushes against. You also see another set of springs, which act as a cushion for the plunger bar - making this gun is 100% dry fire safe. It's hard to see, but there's a washer behind the main spring rest which acts as the secondary rest for the buffer springs.

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#316477 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 03 June 2012 - 02:34 PM in Homemades

Here's some more pictures of the SuperPAC (a bunch of people had questions about it). I'm not going to post a writeup - just take a look at Carbon's SNAP 7.5 if you need guidance.

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The bow arms and hopper are offset by 45 degrees, in order to give line-of-sight clearance, and also to give the string more clearance from your left hand
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A slot is cut out of the PVC for the hopper, and I used packing tape and goop to seal the coupler. No pretty craftsmanship here.
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The front T was a donor from one of Kane's AAbows. The tip of the barrel is flush with the hole.
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Ghetto plunger rod. Nylon, skirt seal, and a epoxy ramp with washer catch. I planned to make a rainbow catch for this blaster, but we didn't have parts for it in the shop the night before, so I switched it to a SNAP style catch.
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Nothing special here. Cheerios had to fix the trigger - it was originally a nylon l bracket, but it snapped off during the war.
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Super special stock. This hooks under your armpit, providing much needed leverage. The gun is basically unusable without this.
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#317087 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 16 June 2012 - 09:45 PM in Homemades

Writeup

Firing video

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#318185 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 08 July 2012 - 06:08 PM in Homemades

A SNAP variant of the DCIT. It's a full-sized SNAP, with 6" of draw, 16" barrel and footlong integrated RSCB clip. The plunger tube is too long for comfortable priming - half-length makes a lot more sense for these. It would work a lot better with a longer trigger bar, but I didn't have the materials to do that. I'm probably going to cut down the barrel, plunger tube and hopper as well as shorten the draw to 3".

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#316843 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 10 June 2012 - 08:09 PM in Homemades

"Bullpac" is taken, so I call this the Bowpup. Basically a SanchoPanza powered by rear-mounted bow arms. It amuses me.
It is extremely powerful - I clocked it at 250fps on my chrono with a foot-long hopper.

FIRING VIDEO

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Has 6" of draw, 20" bow arms, and is 23" long.

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The bow arms are off-set, so they don't smack you in the face. This doesn't have a proper stock right now, but for the next one I'm going to use a PVC cross instead of a tee, and attach a standard PVC stock.

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#297292 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 18 April 2011 - 08:32 PM in Homemades

Writeup

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#316279 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 29 May 2012 - 09:11 AM in Homemades

Call Kenny Loggins... 'cuz you're in the Danger Zone.

I built a SuperPAC the night before Cataclysm. Full unibody, seven inches of draw, bow arms mounted all the way forward for maximum mechanical advantage. Shoots laser beams - supa range, supa accuracy, supa rate of fire, supa unfair. Pictured below is our resident fashionista IceNine demolishing fools. I left this behind with Kane and Ryan, since I don't think the TSA would appreciate it.

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If you hate this gun, you hate America.
You pinko commie fuck.



#307787 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 25 November 2011 - 08:17 PM in Homemades

I made several of these blasters with 1" PVC telescoped into 1-1/4" PVC. The front of the plunger tube pushes back against the plunger head, similar to how longshots work. Test video, showing the priming motion of the last blaster.

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#294360 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 11 February 2011 - 08:15 AM in Homemades

Good to see you're using normal blasters now, Kane.



I'm not sure I ever posted my SNAP with a skirt seal in this thread. I built this a few months ago purely experimental build, using a preeminent plunger head as a base design for the catch. I wanted to see whether there was a significant performance gap between washer seals and skirt seals. I couldn't see a big difference between them. I also tested this against my Rainbow.

I discussed this at length over at NRev, if you want to read through it.

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#278586 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 25 June 2010 - 10:21 PM in Homemades

Making its debut at SPANO tomorrow:

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#284942 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 06 September 2010 - 04:05 PM in Homemades

A spring-power conversion for the Pump Action Crossbow. This blaster is the same one I'm holding in venom's above post, in a spring-powered configuration.

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#274610 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 12 May 2010 - 05:11 PM in Homemades

My +bow in it's current incarnation. Originally commissioned from Ryan. The stock butt was made by hipponator. The aluminum sideplates and plunger rod were made by louiec3. The aluminum is awesome, it gives the frame a lot of rigidity.

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#266231 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 20 February 2010 - 09:18 PM in Homemades

Tornadobow #2
I started making this, but Ice Nine and Ryan ended up doing all the work. Pretty, and it works very well.

Test Firing.

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#251481 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 23 September 2009 - 11:31 PM in Homemades

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For posterity



#286022 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 25 September 2010 - 12:12 AM in Homemades

Me and Venom built second batch of pump-action SNAPs, based on Carbon's SNAP 7.5 Pump Crossbow. Since I did all the work, I am going to just call it the Beaver Variant just to give it some sort of distinguishing name. This is the Mk2 version, and improved version of the blaster that I posted in Carbon's thread. Click on the pictures to get a full-sized view.

EDIT: Looks like this is basically a SNAP-2. Albeit, with many years of community improvements integrated into the basic design.

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A [k26] powers the pictured blaster, with a 7 inch draw length (bringing the spring close to full compression). The cold weather is screwing up my dart fit, so I was only able to get it to fire 85 feet with a 10-shot hopper. It ought to clear 100 feet easily with proper dart fit. The whole blaster is very long, but is not at all ungainly.

EDIT: It does, indeed clear 100ft with proper dart fit, and a 10-shot hopper. Very nice.

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The spring sits behind the catch, and a PVC cap with a 5/8" hole acts as a stop. The rear length of CPVC prevents the spring from binding up against the walls of the plunger tube, giving the blaster a very smooth feel. The big bolt acts as priming bar for the pump grip (which is a short section of 1.5" thinwall PVC). The priming action is shockingly easy, even with a [k26] installed.



#280025 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 12 July 2010 - 12:14 AM in Homemades

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I had not built a SNAP yet, so I gave it a whirl. This is a Mk5 SNAPbow, with some differences. Shoots a tad under 100 feet with a 5-dart hopper, which is everything I hoped for. It worked great at the last war, despite the inevitable breakage (on-site repairs are fun). The whole blaster has a very solid feel, and it is easily disassembled and maintained.



#286793 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 11 October 2010 - 11:54 AM in Homemades

My RainBow. It has a non-retarded handle. And SlapFire! (I did a crappy job of making the catch on this one, so I can fire the gun by slapping it)

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#294776 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 20 February 2011 - 03:33 PM in Homemades

Another pump-action crossbow. It is superficially similar to my old crossbow, but with a number of improvements.

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Internals below (click the picture for a closer view). This is not a SNAP; it utilizes a ring-type catch, built from PVC endcaps, and is substantially similar to several other designs that have been posted. The meat of the plunger rod is a 1/2" wooden dowel, with the rear section of CPVC acting as a stabilizer and catch face. A little screw sticks out the bottom of the catch, which the trigger pushes against. With the exception of the handle, everything is easily acquired at your local hardware store. Still needs a stock.

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I could not find workable catch spring for the life of me, so I jimmied up a compromise solution. It works very well, but looks funny.

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The bow arms are offset by 45 degrees, to keep them out of my way. This setup offers a clear view down the length of the barrel.

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I can't find any decent lubricants down here, so the blaster's performance is seriously hampered by friction. The catch performance seems quite good – I have had no misfires while playing around with it.

EDIT:
Found some lube, yay!

I experimented a bit with bow arm lengths, and 20" arms seems to be a sweet spot in performance, giving me ranges between 90-120ft (my darts are a mish-mash, hence the inconsistency). Much over 24", and performance drops way off. Under 18", draw resistance increases significantly, to the point where the catch spontaneously fails. These are 1/2" PVC arms, FYI, and pre-tension is kept to a minimum.

A note on bows:
Smaller arms will exert much more force due to a couple of factors. First, the deformation of the arms is greatly increased. Second, the force vectors are more parallel with the plunger rod.



#221969 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 06 April 2009 - 11:15 AM in Darts and Barrels

Does anyone have any tips for working with liquid nails? I've been trying a few methods, and have resorted to just using my fingers to slather it on. Ideally, I would like to squeeze out a bead of it onto the top of the dart.

On a side note, I'm not sure why so many people have durability problems with liquid nails. My Slug/CS/felt darts hold up much better with liquid nails than with hot glue. I wonder if the type of foam you use makes a difference? I'm using the mile-high.



#222569 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 09 April 2009 - 12:06 AM in Darts and Barrels

Thanks Muttonchops, plastic sandwich bags work very well.



#295784 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 11 March 2011 - 08:48 AM in Darts and Barrels

6mm craft foam?

You guys are huge pussies. :P



#295428 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 05 March 2011 - 11:57 PM in Darts and Barrels

The thickness of the sheets is about 2-3mm, which I think is thick enough.

Some people (Kane in particular) were expressing doubts as to whether that was thick enough to be safe. Blind tests are a good way of differentiating - have someone shoot you in the back with random darts, and you decide which ones hurt the most (without peeking at the darts!). I had this test performed on me a few months ago at one of the wars, and I could not differentiate between hits between felt-tipped darts and craft-foam tipped darts, so I think they are equivalent. Try it out, and judge for yourself.

Another thing: brass tubing does not work well as a punch, it is too soft. It will work for the first dozen heads, but beyond that it dulls and deforms.



#295496 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 07 March 2011 - 11:30 AM in Darts and Barrels

I still think they are a little thin, at least by the look. What thickness of foam are these? Say... 1/16"? I think that I would probably use at least 1/8", probably 3/16" if I could. Really good idea with the leather/gasket punch.

Have someone shoot you with both.



#295370 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 05 March 2011 - 08:49 AM in Darts and Barrels

An example of craft foam slugs made with the above-mentioned hole punch. Click for a larger picture. 1/2" hole punches are almost always too big, so step down a size when buying hole punches. These were made with a 7/16" hole punch.

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#260068 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 29 December 2009 - 10:34 AM in Darts and Barrels

Sorry for the idiot question, but what size FBR should I buy so that it will fit in stock barrels?

Thanks

1/2", but it will depend on what brand you buy. Bring a blasters to the store (with the pegs removed) an try shoving FBR into the barrels - you'll want stuff that is fairly snug.



#321964 Nerfers Nerfing Disease

Posted by Daniel Beaver on 24 September 2012 - 08:13 PM in Off Topic

The constant electricity usage these sorts of programs demand is insane. I'm not a fan of $100 power bills, especially when a dedicated supercomputer can do the same job more efficiently.