Depends, what role do you need it for?

If you want a one-shot kill at close range, but as a backup, use a Rough Cut or a Sledgefire (after removing the stock). This is useful for keeping people behind cover, since they know they won't be able to dodge two or three darts just to poke their heads above cover.

Need a good mix of fire rate and range for a primary? Use an Alpha Trooper or a Rampage. I prefer the Alpha Trooper because loading from the bottom makes more sense to me.

Want an effective sidearm that has good fire rate and decent capacity? Get a Strongarm, you can slam-fire it.

Want a good springer overall? Get a Stampede and upgrade it, like Captain Xavier did with his primary, EIR. Yes, technically the Stampede is a springer, even though it takes batteries, because the main power going to the darts is from a plunger and plunger tube, the mechanism is just primed and reset electronically.

New photos from: http://gizmodo.com/n...-for-1786805212

<snip>

The flat tip and consistent aerodynamic profile around the circumference should make these as accurate as knock-off darts that don't have any off-center asymmetric holes. I doubt that the drill-bit profile does much of anything. But who knows.

Thank you very much for the better photos!

Edited because more relevant data from people. I got the connects yo!

Got to see one with an unnamed source(s).
So far, these are kinda accurate. They're USCs that fly farther and hit closer to regular velocities. They're decently accurate,
and "slightly better than USCs". Why should this matter to us? Because casual stock guys can come in and play, buy all store dart flinging stuff and have decent gear. It's kinda like rival, but compatible with everything. So it's cool and kinda worth looking into. 
Sure it'll be a little more expensive but let it at least surface. 

They also didn't hop out of a snapbow, BUT my source(s) had a CPVC barrel and reported that the dart was stuck in the middle of the barrel, meaning it was just a bit too tight but hopped. So, definitely something to look into using a wider bore barrel.


Oh also, the grooves in the front don't do anything, just there for aesthetic. 
TL;DR I have multiple sources, it's kinda ok, slightly better than USCs and will have hasbro prices, but will sell near elite prices I hear. (don't quote me on that, not sure) May hop too. 



PS : the dart heads "spiral/rifling" was intended to compress on impact, not create spin

Thanks for the added info. And according to a YouTube video I saw, the Hasbro employees did mention that the darts are more consistent, yet a little softer-shooting, than Elite darts (https://www.youtube....h?v=w_43mDTkMrY if you want to check it out). They also said that they aren't going to be completely phasing out Elites, as, quote, "We want [our target market] to have the choice".  I personally think it's nice that we're getting the option for different types of stock dart, like how in real steel, you have AP, tracer, hollow point, JSP, FMJ, ball, etc. Depending on your needed application. For people who want stock darts and more options, selling them alongside Elites is great, but I still prefer FVJ's because they're accurate, shoot hard and are really cheap.

well now they're not giving the illusion of different types by color and the rare USDart
Don't mean to make this a dickwaving thread but, LOL FVJ accurate, USCs are more "accurate" and cheaper, 3.30 USD a dart, and legal everywere

>plugs in dart guide

They're good that they're be stock ammo that's available in store, in  mass and large quantites for people hopefully.
Have only saw 30 dart max for USDart (the magfed suction) so hopefuly this will be sold is larger quantites like 75.
Dunno why anyone would want the eilte dart though, if there's a better option. Accustrike probably will be more expensive than elites than to make them a viable seller against accustrike darts.

TBH I'm really curious how nerf approaches this, and I'm glad there's a new design but I just want to know if it will hop. 
Please hop in my .495 alu lol

Duly noted, I'll take your dart guide into consideration. However, we'll have to thoroughly test the Accustrike darts. My typical accuracy test involves a Buzz Bee Sn1pe (stop autocorrecting it) (it shoots just a little softer than a Range Master/Orion) and I use the scope to aim at the top half of my coffee pot from a good 30 feet (the maximum range of a typical firefight) away. I ran the test and found that my FVJ's were noticably better than Elite Darts, so I can't wait to try out the Accustrike and USC's.

At least Hasbro acknowledges that elites are inaccurate. The tip design is very interesting, i wonder if the groves will lock in with the barrel or the bolt on the new blasters. 

Yeah, I don't think they will. Also, the Alphahawk has no mechanism that touches the tips, according to any pics I could find. Still, these things might end up like the K'Nex K-Force darts,

Yuck.  Those are terribly ugly.

My thoughts exactly. They're overengineered to Hell and back, and just don't look practical.

Then they wouldn't be conpatible with elite blasters. Hasbro prides themselves in modular technology.

Also, they look horrible and discusting, burn them with fire, kill it, kill it, I like streamline darts better

-Montymarks

I am also worried that the heads could lead to jamming, personally, but I may be pleasantly surprised. However, the tips are also going to have to be lighter, I think, and accuracy would not fare well from a shift of balance.

I have no idea what hasbro was thinking! but who knows? They might be great.

I certainly hope to be pleasantly surprised.

So, these darts appear to have the foam bodies of our regular darts and appear to have heads with corkscrew-like grooves cut in them, perhaps to induce some "rifling" effect on the darts. However, they also have a flat head that covers those grooves, so whether or not they are actually more accurate remains to be seen.

This is a screenshot of a video, unfortunately; It was hard enough finding that, but the design of the darts can be seen here. So, your thoughts on these darts? Personally they look to me like the new heads will not affect accuracy at all (or will make it worse) and it'll have worse ballistics than FJV's, and I'll stick to my FJV's, thank you very much.

High concavity, standard crush setups should also be able to fire harder tipped darts like FVJ's, which high crush setups struggle with, right?

Probably, more surface area means more kinetic energy transferred to the dart and less crush for the same benefit would also be better for dart lifespan too.

Ryan at MTB did a great video on this subject, I'll refer you to him.

https://www.youtube....h?v=paVvQyNmxnc

Not sure, but the Blastersmiths UK 18-round pouches work for Worker mags.

Most of you are familiar with the Tri-Strike, and I actually had the thought of resting the thing on the ground and using the ground as something to brace it against, to not only improve range and accuracy, but also to keep my shoulder from getting bruised to all hell.

So I started using it like one of these:

That is Ian from Forgotten Weapons with a Japanese Type 89 "knee mortar". Note that he has the launcher and the tube resting on the ground at an angle.

So I took the general idea of how the "knee mortar" was used, and I applied it to Nerf.

In this case, the Demolisher stock provides a comfortable grip and a fixed rest to brace the launcher module against the ground, and the Tri-Strike stock is extended, rather like a plunger detonator for dynamite. The stock, being separated from the blaster module and braced solidly on the ground, can have one's entire body weight pushed into the stroke and this increases accuracy by not throwing the barrel off via the recoil of shoving the stock forward. High velocities and highly controllable groups were what I found trying this tactic out.

This can also be a flexible tactic- The pump can be  braced on walls, solid furniture, or trees and the flexible tube means that you can point the tube like a pistol and not lose accuracy due to the force you exert on the pump, making it good for shooting around cover as well as good for direct and indirect fire.

So, I hope you enjoyed this little experiment and I hope you'll consider trying this tactic!

So, way, way back when the Vulcan had just came out, I had an idea. I don't promise a good idea, just an idea.

I thought perhaps a smaller-diameter foam dart might enhance performance, sort of like how you get a higher velocity out of 5.56 than 7.62 NATO, and I thought that it might be worth trying, say, a .30" dart in a specially modified Rainbow to see how that performs.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this, and I'd especially love to hear if anyone's tried a dart smaller than .50".

Way back in the day (like 15+ years ago) Some people experimented with 3/8" darts but they never came to anything.

Do you remember how they made/sourced the 3/8" darts? Or what they used as barrels?

Generally if you're in a situation where your sidearm has to be drawn, something's wrong with your primary, which likely fires much faster than your sidearm. With a secondary, you will also likely miss, so you'd need to fire several darts to make sure you hit your target. And you don't have that fire rate for a Hammershot. I can 3D print a 9-shot cylinder for a Strongarm and fire off those 9 darts at the same fire rate as a Hyperfire, but if I'd choose a sidearm, I'd go for a Rough Cut (same reasoning) or I'd simply spray them with a Magstrike.

No doubt about it, the stock centurion sucks. its big, unwieldy. has a lot of dead space. has this weird reverse plunger system... thing. its accuracy is through the floor and is on its way to hell. its the only mega with a clip so no spare mags, no capacity upgrades unless you MAKE mega clips (in which case plz send one my way XD).

 

 

the only good side is apparently is that its big, so intergrations and internal work is easy. or so im told. the shell does look kinda cool but whats inside is what counts.

 

anyone have a good modded centurion? or a link to one? or know someone who knows someone who knows someone who does? the centurion looks like it should give the person who got hit a good bruise. imagine what a NORMAL plunger that BIG with something like 1264823726348 [[k26]] springs behind it. it might be the first nerf gun to reach relative velocities XD. cant someone 3d print something like that? PLZ IF YOU HAVE ONE PLEASE SHOW IT OFF TO THE WORLD. NOBODY WILL COMPLAIN ABOUT YOU SHOWING OFF.

I took the shell and barrel and transplanted them on a Magnus. I glued everything together with hot glue and made a bolt-action rifle like a Berthier.

Quick question: With a stock drain blaster still containing it's OPRV (assuming as good an air seal as possible), a 12" long 1/2" PVC or 17/32" brass barrel and a single 1. Stock dart and 2. Cut-down stock dart, what's the highest FPS you could potentially get out of it up to, say, 25 pumps?

Unfortunately my drain blaster isn't functional at the moment and circumstances prevent me from repairing it, so I have to ask it here.

And yes, I realize it'd be "stupidly powerful and you should never bring this to a war"; of course I'd never bring a singled drain blaster to a war. The question here is "how much power could you get out of doing X", not "how much power should you get out of doing X".

A foot long barrel is far too short for a drain blaster. You could easily get it over 400fps with a long enough barrel.

What length are we talking about?

This guy. Never have I put so much into a mod and gotten so little in return. I was trying to make a pneumatic clip fed semi auto. Tried clippard mavo-3 and -4 valves, a valve from a big salvo with a custom designed 3d printed trigger (would of worked if it didn't leak),  pistons with enough length to cycle the breech and banded a rf-20 bladder to up the psi. I trashed 2 long strikes in the process.  The problem came in making the bolt cycle *after* the dart had fired. It'd pop open with the dart traveling down the barrel (the barrel pressure would assist the piston in opening the breech). After 3 years of setbacks, reworks, and failures... I think I've finally given up on the dream. 

A bit of advice for this idea: You could adopt the same idea as a gas-operated firearm, and have it primed by what would be the gas piston. https://gunsmagazine...9/AR14_2_17.gif and 

//imgur.com/znToAgb

should give you a fair idea. That way, the gas, assuming a perfect seal, won't act on the bolt sled until the dart has passed the gas block. Sure, you're going to lose a little bit of power from the direct gas impingement system ad have to use Stefans and Stefan mags to stop the darts blowing up, but apparently, according to history, performance losses due to tapping the gas off of the pressure from firing aren't that substantial.

EDIT: I suggested this to Ryan of Make.Test.Battle but in a Retalicon, if the master of HPA blasters can't get this to work, no-one can. XD

We've all had our fair share of janky mods and bad paint jobs. What's the worst mod or paint job you've ever done?

1. Here's my old Stampede. 

Yes, I was a total noob at painting back then and had a budget of maybe $40 a month tops. I obviously tried to go for a more wooden-furniture look and some blood splatters that didn't work out.

#2, the Magnus Rifle. A product of function over form and outdoing the Centurion, this was done with a bread knife and a hot glue gun, just like the old days of Nerf.



Of course the hot glue would never last. Why should it?

And #3, my Rapidpistol "This Machine", what happens when you take a JLCustomsCreations Rapidstrike mod and use a bunch of hand tools and make a bunch of mistakes that prevent you from properly fitting a Rapidpistol kit from Blastersmiths UK on it.

Now to be fair, it's functionally just fine (getting ~110FPS and 75-foot flat ranges with a high ROF), it works on 3 trustfires and a dummy battery (I know, everyone hates them but they work just fine for me and I don't see why everyone bitches about them). The Rapidstrike didn't come with an N-Strike muzzle piece, so the front end is just a big orange block and the stock mount wouldn't sit properly so it's held in by a shitload of 2-part epoxy. And the rough detailing is all done with a silver marker to emulate battle damage. 

Just gonna leave this here...

 

Can it take a K-26~?

But in all seriousness, I can see what you were going for, but holy shit, that must be an ergonomic nightmare.

 

Are you able to pump that thing while only holding the pump handle and pistol grip, or would that rip the tank away from the Nitefinder remnants? I think it looks great, it's a totally utilitarian blaster and I can see beauty in that! 

Looking at the image, it looks like the tank is capable of being pumped without being ripped away from the pistol grip, due to the amount of adhesive.

Well, let's say you need larger projectiles or amounts to damage the beast. To bring him down, you'd need 16 Rival balls/Micro darts, 8 MEGA darts, 2 Demolisher/Buzz Bee grinaides/Ballistic balls, or a Titan rocket.

 

Complicated? Yes. But, boss battles tend to be a little tougher than standard enemies.

(Unless you're a stealth-archer that exploited the alchemy/enchantment loop to make a 10,000 damage Enhanced Dwarven Crossbow and over-capped Leather armor of Fortify Archery 4000% and Fortify Sneak 4000%. Then, you'll gib a boss as easily as a mudcrab.)

I feel bad for him when my Rapidpistol gets involved at close range. 22 rounds with over 6 darts a second  would involve flanking him and dumping a mag in his back.

Meaker is right, and you need to find a balance. Too much weight and bulk and you're basically a giant, slow target, and only one hit'll tag you out in an actual war. Lighter loadouts with high rates of fire and enough ammo to feed that high rate of fire is great.

However, one gametype that a juggernaut loadout would be great for it Humans Vs. Zombies. While having a pair of Stampedes or Vulcans mounted on your shoulders might be a terrible idea if you're fighting others that are shooting back at you, it's an excellent idea for shooting at hordes of zombies.

What is that? Does it work with regular ballistic balls?

No, those are larger in diameter and softer, even more vintage balls, as far as I am aware. I think CaptainXavier has some, actually. Think of these as the 5 1/4" floppy disks while regular ballistic balls are 3.5" floppy disks.

Heya there,

Honest technical question. I'm thinking of getting a Worker Prophecy, with the extended plunger tube, Stefan chambering, and Worker hex mags. Question is if the darts I'm working with will get the higher-FPS preformance out of the high-power Stefan-caliber Prophecy with a Scar barrel?

https://www.monkeemo...r-shell-package Package D plunger with extended plunger tube and Stefan breech, MCX kit, F10555 pump kit, slanted transparent AFG, Worker collapsible and foldable buffer tube and stock. https://www.monkeemo...ling-muzzle-0.5 This is going to be my Scar Barrel. And yes, I expect a drop in FPS from using a Scar barrel. I'm talking getting something like under 100FPS using Stefans instead of the 160-180 I would expect from just using a Scar barrel.

Here are the darts: http://www.lightake....ck_2266574.html

They're knock-off Accustrikes cut to Stefan length and apparently some people report the Prophecy, in its full-length breech, doesn't like Accustrikes, but the Stefan-caliber Prophecy seems to like these Sweet Oranges/nipple tip stefans.

http://www.lightake....ck_2266567.html

TL;DR, will the dart fit for Accustrike slugs in the stefan-breech Worker Prophecy be a problem, or is the problem only with stock-length Accustrike darts in a stock-length Prophecy?

Titans if you're familiar with how air pumps and high pressure tanks work. Drain blasters too.

Nite Finders and Firestrikes, given how easy it is to brass the barrel and shove a K-26 in them.

Stryfes. There are a billion drop-in kits for them, and they can get quite ridiculous with their power.

Fairly self-explanatory. Do you bother with shields? Do you like/dislike them? Do you permit them in your wargames? Does a good portion of your Nerf club use shields, or are they considered a rare encumbrance?

I mainly play short games where one jungle mag is enough. Recently I made a double mag holder to attach to my belt. I used some Eva foam left over from prop making. The paper is there in case I want to make it a double stack later.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
Gallon ziploc bags make great dump pouches btw.

Quite an intriguing solution, I had a cardboard-and-duct tape triple rig I used to use (back when I had only a few and not 20 18rnd magazines), but it ended up getting too squished. Then I found I could afford Blastersmiths UK stuff XD

Simple enough, when you nerf, how do you carry your ammunition into battle? Do you like having a setup with a load of magazines on your body and maybe a cargo pocket for loose darts/SledgeFire shells like Captain Xavier? Do you like running a Nemesis/Hirricane and shoving hundreds of Rival rounds into your cargo pockets like OutOfDarts? Do you run a thigh/belt rig like LordDraconical or Coop772? Do you run a Hail-Fire and thus a self-contained loadout? Or do you just like to smack people with melee?

Personally, I prefer running large amounts of magazines on a chest rig. My main loadout is centered around 10 regular 18's and now, a Regulator, on a chest rig. Alternatively I'll run a basically-modded Stryfe with a Worker AK kit and stock on two Trustfires and two alkalines, but with a MOLLE kit including storage for 8 worker mags, or when I feel absolutely ridiculous, I'll run actual Soviet-issue RPK mag pouches on a belt carrying Worker 22-mags, a LARP Feldspaten (field spade) and operate with a full, 1950's-accurate Soviet uniform just for the laughs.

So you enjoy blaster fires, huh?

I haven't settled on a kit. I've used a messenger bag full of mags, a tool belt full of mags, and just pockets to support a Boomco Rapid Madness (and a TTG) Last game I ran a strayvan with a double-18 and no spares and a couple of single-shot pistols. For the next round I've got something else planned, but have a belt and dump pouch now.

I haven't had any issues, surprisingly. But good to know~

Aah, the good old Immortal kit. Got my hand jammed in it once.

Shiny. I'm very very excited. Integration and mod time!

True, Rayvens are great for that. Stock? Not a fan of the heavy trigger on it and prefer my Modulus (or Regulator).

Yes, Meaker, I've considered that as well...I'm not sure that my nerf modding game is up to that task though.

Not everyone's is, I know how to solder and do electrical work, but unfortunately I don't have a soldering iron.

I haven't put rechargable D-cells in the Nemesis, but I have done that with the Vulcan, and the power I got out of them wasn't exactly stellar compared to even alkalines.

Word of advice, just drop the money on the rechargable battery pack. It weighs less than a pound as compared to the three of the D-cells (and you feel the difference), boosts your performance immensely and can be used in the Hera, Nemesis and Khaos.

Personally, I'm skeptical of how "accurate" these Accustrike darts are going to be. That and the Alphahawk really doesn't excite me that much- A revolver cylinder in a primary-class blaster just doesn't make sense to me unless it's much larger than sidearms, but I may be rather surprised.

So, I bought a brand-new Stryfe and I opened it to find out that Hasbro actually deleted the annoying dart lock on brand-new Stryfes and the thermistor is more box-shaped, possibly to make shunting harder.

I'll take a picture of the thermistor soon, but I wanted to inform you all of these changes to brand-new, out-of-the-box XD Stryfes.

EDIT: Got a picture of the new thermistor, after I shunted it to permit upgraded batteries. 

 

Different design, still just as trivial to short. Me being super lazy, I usually just drop a glob of solder on the board where the wires are soldered in.

I've seen strange variations on Stryfes too. My two orange ones have differing motors; one sounds much quieter than the other and gets some 10-20 FPS less when both are running on shitfires. (I'm in the process of replacing them, don't mind me too much.)

 

Nice to find that they took out that awful lock though; I'd imagine its a serious boon for any bone-stock nerfers who would never even touch a screwdriver.

Thanks for the advice on the shunting job. Though is the Stryfe that shoots way softer a grey-trigger version? Because Australian products are notably weaker due to their nonsensical laws on toys, and they have weaker internals than the orange-trigger versions. And yes, I agree, last time I had a Stryfe that had a lock in it, the jamming problems were unbelievable.

thats a orange trigger. i have one and it looks just like that.

Odd. Maybe you got a lemon with the softer-shooting one?

...I know you're new here and all that, but I gotta be honest with you. No-one is going to hire you. Nearly every hardcore nerfer is going to have a highly-modded blaster that will manage to overtake you unless you have something to match them, and even then, said nerfers would rather handle their opponents themselves. Besides, Nerf isn't simply about winning, it's about having fun. And no-one is going to be so obsessed with winning that they'd hire a mercenary, as many things from actual warfare don't transfer over to Nerf.

Tanks exist in real warfare, but we don't use them in Nerf. Why? Because the concept of a tank (an armoured, well-armed box with an engine and treads/wheels) simply doesn't apply to how our hobby works. And when 'tanks' manifest themselves (almost never), they mostly amount to riding into the battlefield in a pickup truck with a Vulcan on it (and that only happened once, in Australia).

Likewise, the idea of a mercenary doesn't apply to Nerf either, because surprise, Nerf guns don't kill people, so it's no big deal if they get tagged out, and paying someone money to come and fight for them is rendered redundant when they simply can play a team match and have half of an entire Nerf club, essentially, for absolutely free.

I assume this is a joke.

Frankly, I hope it is.

Modders tend to have some weird reliability issues with their projects since we're taking the blasters we're modding and turning them up to 11. However, what is the absolute weirdest mechanical problem you've ever experienced?

In my case, I just had my Rapidpistol fail when the pusher bumped the lip of a magazine. I cracked the epoxy on the ass end and looked at the problem. Apparently the section of the pusher mechanism that holds the 130 motor broke, so now, when the pusher gets too much force against it, the motor flies in the opposite direction of the gears that move the pusher and send it slamming out of alignment with the shell, making the pusher stop working.