Titans are a highly sought-after item, especially for its tank; However, some people, like Ryan from MTB, use the Titan as it was originally designed- Firing large rockets.

However, because Titan rockets are VERY expensive, how would you guys go about making a homemade one? I'm personally doing the R&D on making rings of craft foam and gluing them tightly around a piece of 1-1/4" PVC to ensure the shape and seal are good, but if you have any other suggestions, feel free to discuss the idea here.

Personally, I'm skeptical of how "accurate" these Accustrike darts are going to be. That and the Alphahawk really doesn't excite me that much- A revolver cylinder in a primary-class blaster just doesn't make sense to me unless it's much larger than sidearms, but I may be rather surprised.

1.       What do you like about nerf guns?

I like being able to re-use the ammunition, not require special protective gear, and play inside without damaging anything. Also, it's possibly the cheapest shooting hobby out of all of them.

2.       What would make you buy a nerf gun?

Buddy, I'm past that line XD I already have an armoury. But if I were to choose, there are a few specific details I'd go for: Rate of fire, reload speed, and ammunition fired. I have a definite bias towards full-auto, and flywheel guns. However, automatic air power would be something I'd use if I gave it a compressor mod.

3.       How much would you spend?

Depends, how much does the next big thing cost? If I have to pay $600 for a pre-modded, tri-bladed Rapidstrike from Foam Data Services, I will.

4.       Give these scores from 0 – 5.   5 being most important, 0 not important when choosing nerf gun.

3  Distance (Most shoot the same range stock)

0   Accuracy (You're not going to get good accuracy anyway with most stock guns.)

5    # shots (Having a LOT of ammunition, especially when you can fire at a high fire rate, overcomes the accuracy problems and also permits me to do my job as a "support gunner")

0    Size (I have everything from a Jolt to a Vulcan; Small gun can be effective as larger ones when used right)

2    weight (It's not pleasant to have too much weight on a gun, but it's definitely not a deciding factor for me personally).

0    Looks (Yeah, no... Look intimidating all you want; You could have a gun that look like a giant dick, but that means nothing.)

5.       What Type of ammunition do you like? FVJ darts (aftermarket Elite darts). More accurate and cheap.

6.       What type of gun? Circle 1

o   pistol, carbine, rifle (if automatic), shotgun, machine gun (sometimes)

7.       What kind of action gun? Circle 1

o   Semi auto, pump, single shot, automatic

8.       Rate yourself. 5-nerf expert. 1-noobie.

1              2              3              4              5

9.       What improvements do you want on current nerf gun?

I personally love the Hyperfire, but I wish it had slighty better range after a burst. Or that the 50-dart drums actually came out.

10.   Describe your dream nerf gun in few words. High ROF, automatic, with large ammo capacity, in a reasonable size.

Yep, that's about the best way to do it. Possibly also with craft foam fins.

IIRC, people have used pool noodle and pipe insulation with craft foam fins in the past. I think Draconis (or maybe someone else?) made some pretty sweet titan rocket alternatives as well.

1/2" PVC makes a pool-noodle barrel *and* can house a barrel for a normal 0.50" dart (if you want the option of punching holes in people).

My screw-on Titan barrels for my rockets will also shoot MEGA darts.  I use noodles with a PETG sleeve that improves performance an longevity.

Maybe you could elaborate on how your screw-on barrels work/post pictures? You've got my attention.

Pretty self-explanitory. I prefer to "run three-gun", to use a real steel term- I prefer to use the Hyperfire, with a Stryfe as a secondary and a Strongarm as a tertiary.

Ever make a big mistake when modding? Or want to make it clear to other users how to avoid making mistakes while modding? Please share your experiences and your advice!

So, I bought a brand-new Stryfe and I opened it to find out that Hasbro actually deleted the annoying dart lock on brand-new Stryfes and the thermistor is more box-shaped, possibly to make shunting harder.

I'll take a picture of the thermistor soon, but I wanted to inform you all of these changes to brand-new, out-of-the-box XD Stryfes.

EDIT: Got a picture of the new thermistor, after I shunted it to permit upgraded batteries. 

 

Different design, still just as trivial to short. Me being super lazy, I usually just drop a glob of solder on the board where the wires are soldered in.

I've seen strange variations on Stryfes too. My two orange ones have differing motors; one sounds much quieter than the other and gets some 10-20 FPS less when both are running on shitfires. (I'm in the process of replacing them, don't mind me too much.)

 

Nice to find that they took out that awful lock though; I'd imagine its a serious boon for any bone-stock nerfers who would never even touch a screwdriver.

Thanks for the advice on the shunting job. Though is the Stryfe that shoots way softer a grey-trigger version? Because Australian products are notably weaker due to their nonsensical laws on toys, and they have weaker internals than the orange-trigger versions. And yes, I agree, last time I had a Stryfe that had a lock in it, the jamming problems were unbelievable.

So, these darts appear to have the foam bodies of our regular darts and appear to have heads with corkscrew-like grooves cut in them, perhaps to induce some "rifling" effect on the darts. However, they also have a flat head that covers those grooves, so whether or not they are actually more accurate remains to be seen.

This is a screenshot of a video, unfortunately; It was hard enough finding that, but the design of the darts can be seen here. So, your thoughts on these darts? Personally they look to me like the new heads will not affect accuracy at all (or will make it worse) and it'll have worse ballistics than FJV's, and I'll stick to my FJV's, thank you very much.

At least Hasbro acknowledges that elites are inaccurate. The tip design is very interesting, i wonder if the groves will lock in with the barrel or the bolt on the new blasters. 

Yeah, I don't think they will. Also, the Alphahawk has no mechanism that touches the tips, according to any pics I could find. Still, these things might end up like the K'Nex K-Force darts,

Yuck.  Those are terribly ugly.

My thoughts exactly. They're overengineered to Hell and back, and just don't look practical.

Then they wouldn't be conpatible with elite blasters. Hasbro prides themselves in modular technology.

Also, they look horrible and discusting, burn them with fire, kill it, kill it, I like streamline darts better

-Montymarks

I am also worried that the heads could lead to jamming, personally, but I may be pleasantly surprised. However, the tips are also going to have to be lighter, I think, and accuracy would not fare well from a shift of balance.

I have no idea what hasbro was thinking! but who knows? They might be great.

I certainly hope to be pleasantly surprised.

New photos from: http://gizmodo.com/n...-for-1786805212

<snip>

The flat tip and consistent aerodynamic profile around the circumference should make these as accurate as knock-off darts that don't have any off-center asymmetric holes. I doubt that the drill-bit profile does much of anything. But who knows.

Thank you very much for the better photos!

Fairly self-explanatory. Do you bother with shields? Do you like/dislike them? Do you permit them in your wargames? Does a good portion of your Nerf club use shields, or are they considered a rare encumbrance?

thats a orange trigger. i have one and it looks just like that.

Odd. Maybe you got a lemon with the softer-shooting one?

Edited because more relevant data from people. I got the connects yo!

Got to see one with an unnamed source(s).
So far, these are kinda accurate. They're USCs that fly farther and hit closer to regular velocities. They're decently accurate,
and "slightly better than USCs". Why should this matter to us? Because casual stock guys can come in and play, buy all store dart flinging stuff and have decent gear. It's kinda like rival, but compatible with everything. So it's cool and kinda worth looking into. 
Sure it'll be a little more expensive but let it at least surface. 

They also didn't hop out of a snapbow, BUT my source(s) had a CPVC barrel and reported that the dart was stuck in the middle of the barrel, meaning it was just a bit too tight but hopped. So, definitely something to look into using a wider bore barrel.


Oh also, the grooves in the front don't do anything, just there for aesthetic. 
TL;DR I have multiple sources, it's kinda ok, slightly better than USCs and will have hasbro prices, but will sell near elite prices I hear. (don't quote me on that, not sure) May hop too. 



PS : the dart heads "spiral/rifling" was intended to compress on impact, not create spin

Thanks for the added info. And according to a YouTube video I saw, the Hasbro employees did mention that the darts are more consistent, yet a little softer-shooting, than Elite darts (https://www.youtube....h?v=w_43mDTkMrY if you want to check it out). They also said that they aren't going to be completely phasing out Elites, as, quote, "We want [our target market] to have the choice".  I personally think it's nice that we're getting the option for different types of stock dart, like how in real steel, you have AP, tracer, hollow point, JSP, FMJ, ball, etc. Depending on your needed application. For people who want stock darts and more options, selling them alongside Elites is great, but I still prefer FVJ's because they're accurate, shoot hard and are really cheap.

I like drain blasters more because it's a premade package with a bigger tank than a Titan, and they're cheap, but I had a lot of trouble working with these sorts of projects.

well now they're not giving the illusion of different types by color and the rare USDart
Don't mean to make this a dickwaving thread but, LOL FVJ accurate, USCs are more "accurate" and cheaper, 3.30 USD a dart, and legal everywere

>plugs in dart guide

They're good that they're be stock ammo that's available in store, in  mass and large quantites for people hopefully.
Have only saw 30 dart max for USDart (the magfed suction) so hopefuly this will be sold is larger quantites like 75.
Dunno why anyone would want the eilte dart though, if there's a better option. Accustrike probably will be more expensive than elites than to make them a viable seller against accustrike darts.

TBH I'm really curious how nerf approaches this, and I'm glad there's a new design but I just want to know if it will hop. 
Please hop in my .495 alu lol

Duly noted, I'll take your dart guide into consideration. However, we'll have to thoroughly test the Accustrike darts. My typical accuracy test involves a Buzz Bee Sn1pe (stop autocorrecting it) (it shoots just a little softer than a Range Master/Orion) and I use the scope to aim at the top half of my coffee pot from a good 30 feet (the maximum range of a typical firefight) away. I ran the test and found that my FVJ's were noticably better than Elite Darts, so I can't wait to try out the Accustrike and USC's.

Hey, everyone, I wanted to just let you know that I was at Dollar Tree earlier today when I noticed that they were selling the X-Shot Micro there (thereby making it literally the best dart-slinger in the entire store, bar none), with a change in stickers and they include a few plastic target cans, and despite being an X-Shot product, they do not have any branding from the manufacturer.

And because pics or it didn't happen: 

Everything it came with, except the darts cringes at calling those projectiles that come with it "darts"

The pistol compared to my hand.

The dollar store dart throws up on saying that compared to an Elite. The head is black and a plastic, straw-like tube extends through the length, like the crap sticky darts that came with the original (pre-Elite) Clone Trooper Blaster.

And a PSA: I tried the darts it came with and it was lucky to make it ten paces. But, I shoved an Elite Dart into it and it immediately got Jolt preformance. It was visibly slower than my modded Firestrike, but let's be honest, no Jolt-style pistol can beat a Firestrike with an insane spring combo.

What are you making it for?

 

Do you just ant the stage presence of firing larger things than everyone else? If so, it doesn't really matter how you make them, because performance isn't what's important.

 

Do you want the psychological edge of firing big things at ordinary ranges? If so, I'd recommend Drac's approach, because its fantastic for that.

 

 

Do you want the performance edge that innately comes with firing larger calibre ammunition, thereby enabling superior range? If so, you have a problem:

Ordinary nerf darts are fired with an equalisation of pressure from inside and outside them, preventing rupture over numerous repetitions. This is one of the reasons that Drac's rockets are more durable - the PETG sleeve bears the internal pressure, and not a pool noodle. However, Drac's rockets are still a flawed system, as they do not have a sealed pressure container. You could improve on this by adding a cap to the PETG wall, then adding an O-ring at the tip of the barrel to ensure a perfect seal from barrel to PETG. This would allow you to ramp up the pressure (for higher acceleration), and increase durability (by having a sealed pressure vessel).

 

As for the head, use something a bit heavier, like half a stress ball with a weight inside. A rocket (even one with perfect fins) relies on the weight distribution being near the nose, otherwise you get spiraling and pretty bad inaccuracy. If you get a decent weight at the front (probably 50 - 100 grams), and no fins, your rocket will still fly true.

 

Overall, rockets do what MEGA darts should have done - add mass, so that range can be improved.

I will take your advice into account; Note that I'm going for economy and compatibility with a stock-size barrel, though I am certain I could probably have a drain cannon backup for both.

https://www.youtube....h?v=BiTC5Nm7C3c

According to this video, made by someone I can assume is Chinese, managed to get a Double Breech from Taobao, and apparently, it's mechanically just a Buzz Bee Baron with a more complicated firing mech.

TL;DR, pass this thing up immediately.

Generally if you're in a situation where your sidearm has to be drawn, something's wrong with your primary, which likely fires much faster than your sidearm. With a secondary, you will also likely miss, so you'd need to fire several darts to make sure you hit your target. And you don't have that fire rate for a Hammershot. I can 3D print a 9-shot cylinder for a Strongarm and fire off those 9 darts at the same fire rate as a Hyperfire, but if I'd choose a sidearm, I'd go for a Rough Cut (same reasoning) or I'd simply spray them with a Magstrike.

Ryan at MTB did a great video on this subject, I'll refer you to him.

https://www.youtube....h?v=paVvQyNmxnc

Depends, what role do you need it for?

If you want a one-shot kill at close range, but as a backup, use a Rough Cut or a Sledgefire (after removing the stock). This is useful for keeping people behind cover, since they know they won't be able to dodge two or three darts just to poke their heads above cover.

Need a good mix of fire rate and range for a primary? Use an Alpha Trooper or a Rampage. I prefer the Alpha Trooper because loading from the bottom makes more sense to me.

Want an effective sidearm that has good fire rate and decent capacity? Get a Strongarm, you can slam-fire it.

Want a good springer overall? Get a Stampede and upgrade it, like Captain Xavier did with his primary, EIR. Yes, technically the Stampede is a springer, even though it takes batteries, because the main power going to the darts is from a plunger and plunger tube, the mechanism is just primed and reset electronically.

Most of you are familiar with the Tri-Strike, and I actually had the thought of resting the thing on the ground and using the ground as something to brace it against, to not only improve range and accuracy, but also to keep my shoulder from getting bruised to all hell.

So I started using it like one of these:

That is Ian from Forgotten Weapons with a Japanese Type 89 "knee mortar". Note that he has the launcher and the tube resting on the ground at an angle.

So I took the general idea of how the "knee mortar" was used, and I applied it to Nerf.

In this case, the Demolisher stock provides a comfortable grip and a fixed rest to brace the launcher module against the ground, and the Tri-Strike stock is extended, rather like a plunger detonator for dynamite. The stock, being separated from the blaster module and braced solidly on the ground, can have one's entire body weight pushed into the stroke and this increases accuracy by not throwing the barrel off via the recoil of shoving the stock forward. High velocities and highly controllable groups were what I found trying this tactic out.

This can also be a flexible tactic- The pump can be  braced on walls, solid furniture, or trees and the flexible tube means that you can point the tube like a pistol and not lose accuracy due to the force you exert on the pump, making it good for shooting around cover as well as good for direct and indirect fire.

So, I hope you enjoyed this little experiment and I hope you'll consider trying this tactic!

The OMW Immortal kit can be fickle at first, you need to break it in a bit and then it'll be way more reliable. Also, worn darts jam a lot, so make sure you don't feed bad darts.

I have never encountered a situation like this in a slam-fire blaster, but I have encountered a quirk like this in the Retaliator. I think the slam-fire mechanism is worn out and/or your trigger is being interfered with.

PVC works pretty well. I made a Mega Dart barrel out of an aluminium handle for a metal detector however.

No doubt about it, the stock centurion sucks. its big, unwieldy. has a lot of dead space. has this weird reverse plunger system... thing. its accuracy is through the floor and is on its way to hell. its the only mega with a clip so no spare mags, no capacity upgrades unless you MAKE mega clips (in which case plz send one my way XD).

 

 

the only good side is apparently is that its big, so intergrations and internal work is easy. or so im told. the shell does look kinda cool but whats inside is what counts.

 

anyone have a good modded centurion? or a link to one? or know someone who knows someone who knows someone who does? the centurion looks like it should give the person who got hit a good bruise. imagine what a NORMAL plunger that BIG with something like 1264823726348 [[k26]] springs behind it. it might be the first nerf gun to reach relative velocities XD. cant someone 3d print something like that? PLZ IF YOU HAVE ONE PLEASE SHOW IT OFF TO THE WORLD. NOBODY WILL COMPLAIN ABOUT YOU SHOWING OFF.

I took the shell and barrel and transplanted them on a Magnus. I glued everything together with hot glue and made a bolt-action rifle like a Berthier.

I remember back when I first started in Nerf, you could get a Maverick or a Nite Finder for $8- Currently the price of a Jolt without taking inflation into account. Currently, similar-tier sidearms like the Strongarm, Hammershot and Firestrike  cost about twice as much. I blame inflation for part of why the prices are generally getting more expensive. And sure enough, $8 in 2006 is about $10 in 2016 money- But also, the cost of plastic is rising, meaning production is more expensive. With global crude oil reserves running low being likely to occur by 2050, I predict plastics will be more and more made out of PLA to compensate. And PLA can be more flexible than ABS.

Aah, the good old Immortal kit. Got my hand jammed in it once.

What you can do is put hot glue in the female side of the priming rod and push the two parts of the bar together, and both the 5kg spring and 7kg spring need two hands to prime. I would know, I have a 5kg Immortal kit installed (And got my hand jammed inside the damn thing while installing it). As for pump grips, well, I don't know, in all honesty.

Thanks for helping. I will be sure to try what you suggested. Thanks!

No problem! I will warn you about something though: If you want to take it apart, well, that's not happening once you hot glue it, but whether or not it's a bad thing is your call.

Not sure, but the Blastersmiths UK 18-round pouches work for Worker mags.

My Immortal Longstrike and my Firestrike. I shoved two springs in the Firestrike and intend to improve the barrel.

Simple enough, when you nerf, how do you carry your ammunition into battle? Do you like having a setup with a load of magazines on your body and maybe a cargo pocket for loose darts/SledgeFire shells like Captain Xavier? Do you like running a Nemesis/Hirricane and shoving hundreds of Rival rounds into your cargo pockets like OutOfDarts? Do you run a thigh/belt rig like LordDraconical or Coop772? Do you run a Hail-Fire and thus a self-contained loadout? Or do you just like to smack people with melee?

Personally, I prefer running large amounts of magazines on a chest rig. My main loadout is centered around 10 regular 18's and now, a Regulator, on a chest rig. Alternatively I'll run a basically-modded Stryfe with a Worker AK kit and stock on two Trustfires and two alkalines, but with a MOLLE kit including storage for 8 worker mags, or when I feel absolutely ridiculous, I'll run actual Soviet-issue RPK mag pouches on a belt carrying Worker 22-mags, a LARP Feldspaten (field spade) and operate with a full, 1950's-accurate Soviet uniform just for the laughs.

So you enjoy blaster fires, huh?

I haven't settled on a kit. I've used a messenger bag full of mags, a tool belt full of mags, and just pockets to support a Boomco Rapid Madness (and a TTG) Last game I ran a strayvan with a double-18 and no spares and a couple of single-shot pistols. For the next round I've got something else planned, but have a belt and dump pouch now.

I haven't had any issues, surprisingly. But good to know~

I mainly play short games where one jungle mag is enough. Recently I made a double mag holder to attach to my belt. I used some Eva foam left over from prop making. The paper is there in case I want to make it a double stack later.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
Gallon ziploc bags make great dump pouches btw.

Quite an intriguing solution, I had a cardboard-and-duct tape triple rig I used to use (back when I had only a few and not 20 18rnd magazines), but it ended up getting too squished. Then I found I could afford Blastersmiths UK stuff XD

...I know you're new here and all that, but I gotta be honest with you. No-one is going to hire you. Nearly every hardcore nerfer is going to have a highly-modded blaster that will manage to overtake you unless you have something to match them, and even then, said nerfers would rather handle their opponents themselves. Besides, Nerf isn't simply about winning, it's about having fun. And no-one is going to be so obsessed with winning that they'd hire a mercenary, as many things from actual warfare don't transfer over to Nerf.

Tanks exist in real warfare, but we don't use them in Nerf. Why? Because the concept of a tank (an armoured, well-armed box with an engine and treads/wheels) simply doesn't apply to how our hobby works. And when 'tanks' manifest themselves (almost never), they mostly amount to riding into the battlefield in a pickup truck with a Vulcan on it (and that only happened once, in Australia).

Likewise, the idea of a mercenary doesn't apply to Nerf either, because surprise, Nerf guns don't kill people, so it's no big deal if they get tagged out, and paying someone money to come and fight for them is rendered redundant when they simply can play a team match and have half of an entire Nerf club, essentially, for absolutely free.