I realize this topic is simply a display of opinions and no real decisions will be made because of it, so I will also share my opinion: If I choose a hobby (such as modifying TOY guns), and it comes to a point where these said TOYS are drawing blood, I think it has become substantially less TOY-like. To me this hobby is novel because we are playing with childrens toys. The less toy-like these blasters/darts become, the less appealing it is to me. That being said, other people might play with nerf guns for different reasons; that's not my problem I guess.
I will say that I am thankful for the empirical data given here, hats off.
Phree Agent's Content
There have been 220 items by Phree Agent (Search limited from 03-December 96)
#314256 "Optimal" 4B Barrel Length and Pain
Posted by
on 10 April 2012 - 10:39 PM
in
General Nerf
#328824 3b help
Posted by
on 17 April 2013 - 09:42 AM
in
General Nerf
As usual with this kind of thread, pictures would explain things much better than any amount of words could.
Some things you need to explain further so that we can help you:
What mods have you done to the blaster
Does blaster rattle when you shake it
Does the crashing noise sound like something is broken or shattered, or just a loud bang?
Frankly, we need pictures. 3Bs are loud to begin with, so we need more information.
Some things you need to explain further so that we can help you:
What mods have you done to the blaster
Does blaster rattle when you shake it
Does the crashing noise sound like something is broken or shattered, or just a loud bang?
Frankly, we need pictures. 3Bs are loud to begin with, so we need more information.
#333333 Air Max 6 Mod Guide
Posted by
on 21 August 2013 - 01:19 PM
in
Modifications
Break what to the what? And why? Sorry, just not clear as to why I shouldn't do something.
If I understand correctly, he is talking about a piece that is part of the external slide that goes through a bit of the pump in order to pump it using the external slide. Think of it as the pin in a maverick that usually breaks if you do spring replacements. It is the same concept. The pressure would be greater, thus putting more stress on this cross piece of the slide, and will potentially break it off.
----------
Now, for why I really wanted to post:
This "mod guide" is pretty terrible. I'm not trying to strike you down for posting it, but there is very little substance here. First off, I (and I know I can't be the only one) don't even know what this blaster looks like or how it functions. I shouldn't have to supplement your "guide" with a google search just to see what blaster we are even discussing. Add more information, and actually "guide" me through the process. I (and new people visiting the site) would really appreciate it.
Sorry for the soapbox, mods, but I know you must agree with me.
#317202 Air Zone Crossbow Overhaul
Posted by
on 19 June 2012 - 08:24 PM
in
Modifications
If I recall, doesn't the trigger work as the catch and wouldn't that make it really fragile?
I will say that in my experience, the trigger WILL break after lots of use. And that was way back when with just the stock bungees and a crayola barrel.
#322674 Airtech 3000 Tank Pressure
Posted by
on 16 October 2012 - 06:34 PM
in
Modifications
If I had to guess, I would say that a leaky tank is not your problem. If the tank had a leak in it the number of pumps needed to fill the tank wouldn't change much at all.
Did you change anything else when you repaired the blaster? Did you add a substantial amount of extra tubing between the pump and the tank? Is the pump stroke just as long as before?
Did you change anything else when you repaired the blaster? Did you add a substantial amount of extra tubing between the pump and the tank? Is the pump stroke just as long as before?
#304821 All You Need Is NERF: DCNF#2
Posted by
on 19 September 2011 - 09:29 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Sorry I missed this one fellas! Time to start planning the next one 
. I can cohost again if anyone would like. I am trying to nerf before it gets too cold to feel the darts haha.
. I can cohost again if anyone would like. I am trying to nerf before it gets too cold to feel the darts haha.
#304074 All You Need Is NERF: DCNF#2
Posted by
on 30 August 2011 - 03:00 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Disclaimer: I am not attending THIS particular DCNF, so do what you want with my input.
That being said, I think a location can make or break a good war. I have been to wars at great places and at pretty shanty places. Overall, I think a good rule is to have AS MUCH cover as possible. To me, this creates a much better war than a large field situation does. As for mobstacles, they are really nice but if you really think about how much cover they actually add, I do not think they are worth making considering their cost/maintenance.
That being said, I think a location can make or break a good war. I have been to wars at great places and at pretty shanty places. Overall, I think a good rule is to have AS MUCH cover as possible. To me, this creates a much better war than a large field situation does. As for mobstacles, they are really nice but if you really think about how much cover they actually add, I do not think they are worth making considering their cost/maintenance.
#303554 All You Need Is NERF: DCNF#2
Posted by
on 19 August 2011 - 02:27 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Me and my crew of 0-5(?) guests are maybes as of right now. Once I get back home (in a week) I'll have my schedules all figured out.
EDIT: I am a no go for sure. Aint happening, and I am devastated that I am missing another good one
EDIT: I am a no go for sure. Aint happening, and I am devastated that I am missing another good one
#319932 Apoc Reaction/Feedback Thread
Posted by
on 04 August 2012 - 09:10 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Excellent war everyone. I want to thank the organizers and field 'officials' for doing a superb job.
+Meeting new people was great
+Old friends
+Having enough darts
+Chaos wasn't there
+It didn't rain
+Freeze tag
+Apoc. Period.
-Instead it was hotter than the Suns taint
-RBP broke before a single round had started
-My team lost EVERY game of Deathmatch
-Left fairly early
-Didn't sell much of my unwanted gear, but meh.
-25 bucks due to toll roads
I saw tons of people filming and shooting pictures so I better see tons!
EDIT:
I would like to also thank the LGLF and hosts, as well as God's gift to Nerf wars, Crankymonky. Although, I think the hosts could be a bit more thorough with their "Post war Tick Checks" next year. Langley must have missed a spot, because I found a tick on the backside of my ball sac this morning. Just a suggestion.
+Meeting new people was great
+Old friends
+Having enough darts
+Chaos wasn't there
+It didn't rain
+Freeze tag
+Apoc. Period.
-Instead it was hotter than the Suns taint
-RBP broke before a single round had started
-My team lost EVERY game of Deathmatch
-Left fairly early
-Didn't sell much of my unwanted gear, but meh.
-25 bucks due to toll roads
I saw tons of people filming and shooting pictures so I better see tons!
EDIT:
I would like to also thank the LGLF and hosts, as well as God's gift to Nerf wars, Crankymonky. Although, I think the hosts could be a bit more thorough with their "Post war Tick Checks" next year. Langley must have missed a spot, because I found a tick on the backside of my ball sac this morning. Just a suggestion.
#320430 Apoc Reaction/Feedback Thread
Posted by
on 13 August 2012 - 10:38 PM
in
Nerf Wars
I am a bit late to this party, but I just got around to uploading my pictures.
Check them out:
http://s955.photobuc...gent/Apoc 2012/
Check them out:
http://s955.photobuc...gent/Apoc 2012/
#319814 Apoc Round Schedule and Signup
Posted by
on 03 August 2012 - 03:04 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Are these all primary rounds, or can any of the above be modified to use pistols and the like? I think pistol Carpe would be especially fun/exhausting.
#297877 Apocalypse 2011
Posted by
on 05 May 2011 - 10:46 AM
in
Nerf Wars
I can only make the July dates.
Edit: Me +3-4
Edit: Me +3-4
#319840 Apocalypse 2012
Posted by
on 03 August 2012 - 07:22 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Just to be sure, this war falls under the "too big to fail" category right, rain or shine? I figure people (including myself) have traveled from too far away to have this thing rained out.
#260340 At2k Help Needed
Posted by
on 01 January 2010 - 11:46 AM
in
Modifications
I got my replacement at Petco. It was for fish tanks and hooked up nicely with the stock tubing. I just cut out a section of the stock tubing and conneted the split ends of the stock tubing to the valve. Make sure the arrow on the valve indicating direction of flow points from the pump to the tank.
#260212 At2k Help Needed
Posted by
on 30 December 2009 - 08:55 PM
in
Modifications
Mine did this after I plugged the pump as well. The pump would push air into the tubing, but then it would push the pump handle back out. I spliced in a new check valve and it works like a dream now. I hope this helps.
#313746 Baby Bottle Hopper
Posted by
on 30 March 2012 - 03:29 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Does it work with slugs? Does it work with lighter weighted darts such as single BB? I just would assume that it works better with heavier headed darts.
#257081 Ballzooka Mp150
Posted by
on 22 November 2009 - 11:09 PM
in
Modifications
The concept and craftsmanship alone make this project awesome. I love the casing and the placement of the battery. Excellent work.
#269415 Basic Sharpshooter Ii Mods/repairs
Posted by
on 16 March 2010 - 11:07 PM
in
Modifications
Yeah, even if this is slightly more bulky than a standard Nightfinder, I like it better. What is better than 1 shot at 60ish feet? Two at 60ish feet.
As for the bottom/top barrel differences I think I read somewhere that it is indeed the barrels selectors fault in favoring the bottom barrel. I could be wrong, but I thought I had read that somewhere in the past.
As for the bottom/top barrel differences I think I read somewhere that it is indeed the barrels selectors fault in favoring the bottom barrel. I could be wrong, but I thought I had read that somewhere in the past.
#269271 Basic Sharpshooter Ii Mods/repairs
Posted by
on 16 March 2010 - 12:04 AM
in
Modifications
Basic Reinforcement/Repair and Barrel/Spring replacement for a Sharpshooter II
Not many Sharpshooter II mods out there so I figured I would dig mine out of box of goodies and fix it up. It ended up being much better than I expected.
First is first: Open up the gun. No tricks here.
Basic Internals. Plunger tube is fairly large. (Trigger is missing in this picture, but it's not really important)
I then noticed in my blaster specifically (But I have heard of many other people with this problem as well) that the spring rest was cracked and even broken off in some places.
To combat this problem, I grabbed my sheet aluminum and tin snips. I cut a piece out for each spring rest. After dry fitting the pieces for size, mark where the plunger rod square hole needs to be cut.
Once everything is cut and fits nicely, epoxy the aluminum plates in.
Now that the spring rests are bulked up, we can now move on to a basic spring and barrel replacement.
Remove the plunger head and add whatever springs you wish. I have a random spring I found in my parts, and an Ace 49 in mine. I added a small PVC spacer to compensate for my replacement springs being slightly shorter than the stock one.
Next take out the plunger tube assembly. I use CPVC for my barrels. After a wrap or two of electrical tape the CPVC fits very snuggly into the stock barrels. I glued them in, and then glued the barrels to the green barrel selector part just for good measure.
Now lube and reassemble the blaster, and enjoy.
This blaster is much better than I thought it would be after just simple mods. The spring rests are still holding strong with no sign of cracking or breaking. Looking back I could have replaced the plunger head, but I didn’t have the time or the materials at the time.
Ranges with 3/0 sinker Stefans at chest level, indoor not counting dart skip: 58 (top), 62 (Bottom)
First write up, hope it went well.
Comments/Questions?
Not many Sharpshooter II mods out there so I figured I would dig mine out of box of goodies and fix it up. It ended up being much better than I expected.
First is first: Open up the gun. No tricks here.
Basic Internals. Plunger tube is fairly large. (Trigger is missing in this picture, but it's not really important)
I then noticed in my blaster specifically (But I have heard of many other people with this problem as well) that the spring rest was cracked and even broken off in some places.
To combat this problem, I grabbed my sheet aluminum and tin snips. I cut a piece out for each spring rest. After dry fitting the pieces for size, mark where the plunger rod square hole needs to be cut.
Once everything is cut and fits nicely, epoxy the aluminum plates in.
Now that the spring rests are bulked up, we can now move on to a basic spring and barrel replacement.
Remove the plunger head and add whatever springs you wish. I have a random spring I found in my parts, and an Ace 49 in mine. I added a small PVC spacer to compensate for my replacement springs being slightly shorter than the stock one.
Next take out the plunger tube assembly. I use CPVC for my barrels. After a wrap or two of electrical tape the CPVC fits very snuggly into the stock barrels. I glued them in, and then glued the barrels to the green barrel selector part just for good measure.
Now lube and reassemble the blaster, and enjoy.
This blaster is much better than I thought it would be after just simple mods. The spring rests are still holding strong with no sign of cracking or breaking. Looking back I could have replaced the plunger head, but I didn’t have the time or the materials at the time.
Ranges with 3/0 sinker Stefans at chest level, indoor not counting dart skip: 58 (top), 62 (Bottom)
First write up, hope it went well.
Comments/Questions?
#291104 Beltway Bedlam
Posted by
on 18 December 2010 - 10:31 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Woot! Exams over, now let's talk business.
Anyone have any more info on location or even a date?
Anyone have any more info on location or even a date?
#295509 Beltway Bedlam
Posted by
on 07 March 2011 - 04:31 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Neither work particularly well with me. And I can say that my guest count will be severely downsized since it will no longer be spring break for us.
#293294 Beltway Bedlam
Posted by
on 24 January 2011 - 03:47 PM
in
Nerf Wars
The 12th works for me. I will be a definite and possibly a few guests.
Edit: My attendance will also be based on whether the 'definite' list grows some. I'm not going to drive a few hours to play a few rounds of doubles. Can't wait though, let's make this happen.
Edit: My attendance will also be based on whether the 'definite' list grows some. I'm not going to drive a few hours to play a few rounds of doubles. Can't wait though, let's make this happen.
#288189 Beltway Bedlam
Posted by
on 09 November 2010 - 03:43 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Ohh man, this is just what I needed. I would be down for any of those dates I think. I would also be able to round up probably myself and three or four others to come.
#295157 Beltway Bedlam
Posted by
on 27 February 2011 - 08:53 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Just to give a better idea of numbers from me, I am a definite and I have 2 more definite guests and possibly 2 more maybes.
#293631 Beltway Bedlam
Posted by
on 30 January 2011 - 11:18 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Welcome back Cranky!
Also, as for this email list/ mini forum thing, I would totally be down.
Also, as for this email list/ mini forum thing, I would totally be down.
#295403 Beltway Bedlam
Posted by
on 05 March 2011 - 04:51 PM
in
Nerf Wars
If anyone has some workable primaries that they would not mind my guests using that would be great if you could bring them. I have darts, and some primary worthy blasters, but maybe not enough depending on who all I gather to come. Please and thank you to everyone.
#329677 Bolt Action Blaster Stress Breakage Issue
Posted by
on 11 May 2013 - 06:14 PM
in
Homemades
Bolt Action Woes
I have been working on this bolt-action blaster project of mine for quite some time now, and have a working prototype version completed. Sadly, one of the pieces (for this thread I will refer to it as the cocking slide) is not strong enough to withstand the leverage/stress it is required to hold. This blaster is loosely designed around the blaster found here: , by Wes.
I would really prefer to use a more Bolt action type priming mech in my blaster as opposed to his (but they function very similarly). Here is my video showing the functionality of my blaster, as well as how the piece in question primes the blaster. (Sorry for the crappy video. Hopefully, even through the painfully pixel-y picture you can see how this thing functions)
For those who might be better reading than watching, the bolt action handle is lifted and is pulled backwards on the blaster. This handle is connected to the “cocking slide” that pulls the entire plunger rod back into the catch. At this point, the spring is not compressed. The plunger rod is caught (by the rainbow catch), and the cocking slide is then returned to it’s original position thus priming the spring against the plunger head. The trigger is pulled, and the plunger rod shoots forward. Return to step one.
The “cocking slide” currently is made of a ¾ to 1/2 reducer that has been reamed out so that my ½ in CPVC plunger rod can slide through it.
My question to everyone with homemade knowledge is: Is there a way to attach the bolt action handle to this “cocking slide” piece so that it can be strong enough to prime a [k26] in the levering position it is in? I have tried Goop, Super Glue, and PVC cement. Any help or suggestions would be great.
(This blaster isn’t finished yet obviously. Still needs some cosmetic work, but worked for a while before the cocking slide to bolt action handle was broken)
Specs: 1-1/4 PT, ~7 inches of draw, full [k26] inside. Has a hardware store cup seal on a cpvc PR. It’s a monster to prime, but hopefully with proper material strength it will become easier. Ranges easily break 100.
I have been working on this bolt-action blaster project of mine for quite some time now, and have a working prototype version completed. Sadly, one of the pieces (for this thread I will refer to it as the cocking slide) is not strong enough to withstand the leverage/stress it is required to hold. This blaster is loosely designed around the blaster found here: , by Wes.
I would really prefer to use a more Bolt action type priming mech in my blaster as opposed to his (but they function very similarly). Here is my video showing the functionality of my blaster, as well as how the piece in question primes the blaster. (Sorry for the crappy video. Hopefully, even through the painfully pixel-y picture you can see how this thing functions)
For those who might be better reading than watching, the bolt action handle is lifted and is pulled backwards on the blaster. This handle is connected to the “cocking slide” that pulls the entire plunger rod back into the catch. At this point, the spring is not compressed. The plunger rod is caught (by the rainbow catch), and the cocking slide is then returned to it’s original position thus priming the spring against the plunger head. The trigger is pulled, and the plunger rod shoots forward. Return to step one.
The “cocking slide” currently is made of a ¾ to 1/2 reducer that has been reamed out so that my ½ in CPVC plunger rod can slide through it.
My question to everyone with homemade knowledge is: Is there a way to attach the bolt action handle to this “cocking slide” piece so that it can be strong enough to prime a [k26] in the levering position it is in? I have tried Goop, Super Glue, and PVC cement. Any help or suggestions would be great.
(This blaster isn’t finished yet obviously. Still needs some cosmetic work, but worked for a while before the cocking slide to bolt action handle was broken)
Specs: 1-1/4 PT, ~7 inches of draw, full [k26] inside. Has a hardware store cup seal on a cpvc PR. It’s a monster to prime, but hopefully with proper material strength it will become easier. Ranges easily break 100.
#329688 Bolt Action Blaster Stress Breakage Issue
Posted by
on 11 May 2013 - 08:52 PM
in
Homemades
Drill a 1/2" hole through the cpvc rod and stick nylon/delrin./alum/ whatever into it, then sheth it wih a 1/2ID/5/8OD tube to coupler onto the cpvc handle. That may hold it. You can also fill in that space with putty. Lube up the cpvc and putty around it. The lube will keep the putty from sticking and you'll hve something solid to support the handle.
I am not sure I understand your first suggestion, but I would rather not drill any holes into the PR. I would have to do a slotted rod, and that is a pain as you know. The putty idea sounds good, I just don't have a lot of room to work with between the PR and the "cocking slide" to add a substantial depth of putty. I will give it a shot though if no other ideas surface. Thanks Hero.
#329734 Bolt Action Blaster Stress Breakage Issue
Posted by
on 12 May 2013 - 07:37 PM
in
Homemades
After watching your video demonstrating functionality, I don't think there's an easy/practical way to get the look you want while retaining that exact functionality.
Because the force of priming is taken up entirely by that ring (purple from solvent weld), you're going to encounter crazy amounts of torque on any sort of adhesive bond, most of which were designed only for lateral stress. You also have almost 0 surface area to bond to.
Mechanically fastening is also going to be a pain because there is barely any material concentrically.
My best ideas are:
1) That purple ring/sliding piece that you use to pull back the plunger rod and then prime the blaster should not have a hole for the CPVC to attach to, because wall thickness is too low for any sort of structural strength. Instead, take a piece of 5/8" solid rod, drill an appropriately sized hole through it (have fun centering that), dremel it down (this part will be awful) to fit the curvature of your PVC ring, and then use a screw from the inside of the ring into the rod. A 1/4-20 screw is probably strong enough to withstand the priming forces.
2) Use a PVC tee and slide it through there so that way the plunger rod can fit through and you have a single molded piece to attach your cocking bolt to. This may require you completely redesign your blaster so the pieces fit
Thanks Zorn, I think I will give option 1 a try next. I will keep this thread posted with results.
#332301 Bolt Action Rifle Plans
Posted by
on 25 July 2013 - 10:07 AM
in
Homemades
If purely looking like a WWII bolt action rifle with mediocre performance with stock darts is your main concern, I would honestly recommend modifying a Buzzbee Range Master cosmetically instead of building a blaster from scratch. The range master is bolt action (although it acts as a pump instead of priming a spring), and also has a breech similar to the one you are describing.
I am not trying to discourage you from building from scratch, I just think for your purposes this is a slightly better idea.
On a side note, threads created with a less than complete blaster, are usually not taken well by the higher-ups even though your diagrams are at least above average.
Edit: Filter fixes.
Edit 2: You sneaky sneaky.
I am not trying to discourage you from building from scratch, I just think for your purposes this is a slightly better idea.
On a side note, threads created with a less than complete blaster, are usually not taken well by the higher-ups even though your diagrams are at least above average.
Edit: Filter fixes.
Edit 2: You sneaky sneaky.
#338544 Bull Clip Level
Posted by
on 29 April 2014 - 01:26 PM
in
Modifications
Gosh, this has been a long time coming. Thanks MIG.
#319106 Buzz Bee Range Master a new airgun
Posted by
on 24 July 2012 - 03:26 PM
in
Modifications
All my questions were answered either while I was typing this, or in the video that I found in the Mods/PJ thread.
**Edited for redundancy**
**Edited for redundancy**
#257994 Christmas Nova
Posted by
on 04 December 2009 - 02:45 PM
in
Nerf Wars
The 26th is definitely not going to work for me. Also, all the weekdays are possibilities for me.
#258758 Christmas Nova
Posted by
on 12 December 2009 - 06:31 PM
in
Nerf Wars
I'll bump this.
Anyone have more solid details yet about date or numbers?
Still looks to me like a handful of maybes.
It would still be me plus 1-2 for practically any day that is not the 26th I just need to know in advance.
Anyone have more solid details yet about date or numbers?
Still looks to me like a handful of maybes.
It would still be me plus 1-2 for practically any day that is not the 26th I just need to know in advance.
#258402 Christmas Nova
Posted by
on 08 December 2009 - 08:59 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Numbers look a little lacking at the moment, but I will be bringing 1-2 people in theory. So I hope that helps.
#259294 Christmas Nova
Posted by
on 18 December 2009 - 04:37 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Same here. Maybe try again in January?
#302776 Collecting info for new Dart thread.
Posted by
on 03 August 2011 - 09:06 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
I am speaking from my experience in the DC area:
I have seen stock darts, converted stock darts with felt tips, glue domes and slugs at the wars I have participated in. The converted stock darts are either weighed and have a wrap of etape on the end or have a washer and felt pad head. Glue domes have used single BB, double BB or 3/0's. ALL of the slugs I have seen so far have used #6 washers and sufficient felt padding.
I would say the majority of the darts at DC area wars are glue domes, but not by much. I feel like slugs are becoming more and more popular but are still in a close second place. I have not seen any gumdrop, nuthead ect. darts used in any war I have attended.
I use BigBens white foam, which I think is the loghome white foam that was mentioned earlier, but I am sure he could clear that up for sure. I first used glue domes over 3/0's or BB's depending on what blasters I was using. I learned to make glue domes between threads on here and Youtube videos. I have since switched to making slugs with #6 washers and felt dots from McMaster. I learned to make these strictly from this site.
If I had to give some dartsmithing tips:
1. I, for one, would actually recommend a mini hot glue gun. I got both of mine from walmart (and a pack of glue sticks) for under $5. The miniature guns, I feel, burn better holes in the foam and allow the user to control the flow of glue better.
2. When making glue domes let gravity make the dome shape for you. Do not try to form a dome with the glue using your finger because it will never come out looking as good as a gravity created one. When I first started making darts, I thought it was up to ME to create the dome before it dried; this is false.
I have seen stock darts, converted stock darts with felt tips, glue domes and slugs at the wars I have participated in. The converted stock darts are either weighed and have a wrap of etape on the end or have a washer and felt pad head. Glue domes have used single BB, double BB or 3/0's. ALL of the slugs I have seen so far have used #6 washers and sufficient felt padding.
I would say the majority of the darts at DC area wars are glue domes, but not by much. I feel like slugs are becoming more and more popular but are still in a close second place. I have not seen any gumdrop, nuthead ect. darts used in any war I have attended.
I use BigBens white foam, which I think is the loghome white foam that was mentioned earlier, but I am sure he could clear that up for sure. I first used glue domes over 3/0's or BB's depending on what blasters I was using. I learned to make glue domes between threads on here and Youtube videos. I have since switched to making slugs with #6 washers and felt dots from McMaster. I learned to make these strictly from this site.
If I had to give some dartsmithing tips:
1. I, for one, would actually recommend a mini hot glue gun. I got both of mine from walmart (and a pack of glue sticks) for under $5. The miniature guns, I feel, burn better holes in the foam and allow the user to control the flow of glue better.
2. When making glue domes let gravity make the dome shape for you. Do not try to form a dome with the glue using your finger because it will never come out looking as good as a gravity created one. When I first started making darts, I thought it was up to ME to create the dome before it dried; this is false.
#302760 Collecting info for new Dart thread.
Posted by
on 03 August 2011 - 02:05 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Are our responses supposed to be in paragraph form, or were you looking to get more of short and minimal survey responses? Maybe an example post would be helpful? This sounds like an excellent resource forming.
#305197 Creating Velcro Linings on Vortex Discs
Posted by
on 30 September 2011 - 08:12 AM
in
Darts and Barrels
Another thing to consider: (Assuming that in any way adding velcro is possible) The disk is spinning, so the abrasive velcro may cause injury when moving that way.
#325811 Dart and Barrels pictures thread
Posted by
on 25 January 2013 - 07:33 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
AND
The Domes
Concept of final product
Domes sitting on top of foam. No stems or hole yet. (Just to give an idea)
------------
This is the bit I used, thus the tiny dimple in the center of the domes. It was $5 at Ace. I used Polyethylene cutting board as the molds. The stem mold was drilled with 1/4 holes.
Overall, my first attempt was pretty poor. You can see that some of the domes have some air bubbles/imperfections but for a trial run I am considering it alright. I don't have a scale that weighs any smaller than whole grams, so I can only say that these weigh much less than a gram (with the stem).
PM with questions or suggestions. This dart making thing is interesting to say the least.
