What would be a good dremel piece to cut plastic or metal?
Would this work well?

It looks like it would work, sounds like what I use. (Disks that attach to a rod by a screw).


Has anyone tried FBR from Contractors Tool Supply? (http://www.contracto...eet-p-4208.html)

Its $6 for 100', definitely a great price, but there is a $5 low order fee if you don't order 25$ of materials. Before I get 500' of FBR, has anyone tried this stuff? If so, how does it fit cpvc/petg/brass?

Thanks a lot.

(Was hoping to have a mod be my first post, but it's harder to mod nerf guns at college dorms... mainly due to lack of tools)

Has anyone tried the FBR from Contractors Tool Supply? (http://www.contracto...eet-p-4208.html)

Its $6 for 100', but before buying some (they have a low order fee or orders under $25) I wanted to know if anyone has tried it, and if so, hows the fit? (PETG, CPVC mainly)

Thanks

Has anyone tried the FBR from Contractors Tool Supply? (http://www.contracto...eet-p-4208.html)

Its $6 for 100', but before buying some (they have a low order fee or orders under $25) I wanted to know if anyone has tried it, and if so, hows the fit? (PETG, CPVC mainly)

Thanks

Can you get a working link? I can't get to it. Typically, you could try it, and then tell us, as long as its 1/4"

Its 1/2, and the link works just fine. Do a little basic work here.

Agreed, that is a good price. When I get some money I will order to see how it works.

Yeah, the link works fine for me.

I would try it, but there is a low order fee, which I'd rather not pay (seeing as its almost as much as another 100') but before I commit to $35 of foam, I was wondering if it worked. I'm in college right now, so if I'd rather not waste the money to find out that it doesn't fit. I'm not asking you guys too, I'll most likely get it, but I didn't know if anyone has tried it yet.


Thanks, I'll probably order some tomorrow or Saturday.

Yes groove punching your mother solves all problems......Maybe George Bush should have done that during katrina?

OH! You're so witty you should run for president!


Talk to your mom, explain the situation. It was a stupid thing for your friend (to be honest, he doesn't sound like a friend, more of a jerk) to do. Tell her you'll be much further away, and you won't hurt anyone, and you won't get hurt because you'll be wearing protection (goggles, maybe mention a sweatshirt, but forget it the day of the war). Just explain to her that it's safe and in the name of fun.

Looks great. So, do the darts come out the top or the slot?

You load them through the slot, then the orange knex pushes the darts down, out the bottom (or top) of the clip.

Definitely nice, I like the idea. I might have to try that if i'm unsatisfied with an rscb.

Oh my god this is going to be awesome! I can't wait at all!

Maybe when it comes out, someone could find a way to make the drum hold more than 35 inside.

35 isn't enough?


Sounds pretty awesome... 2009 definitely seems promising. Hopefully it comes out early summer, rather than fall, but either way, I have some high hopes.

Is that like half of another? Or is it more like a third?

I think it's a little bit more than a half. It shouldn't be very hard to find the length. Just cut 1/3 of the spring off, then work down from the 2/3 if you really want to be careful.

Do you use the 49 with the stock spring, or replace it? (I've never seen either spring, so I don't know if they'll fit together or whatnot).

Also, I read that a Home Depot Handyman #9713 spring would work (on one of the BBB write-ups) however, my local home depot didn't carry them. (And the employee had no idea what it was).

Is this the right one?
http://www.target.co...t/dp/B000MSY826

It's on clearance for $5.24, definitely seems worth getting, even just for fun.

Edit: With shipping it comes to $12.29, not bad. Would anyone recommend this? I need to start thinking about it more before I rush into buying it... Woot has me thrown off about impulse buying.

I have a question. My second tank, when fired, hisses from the trigger and then there's a quiet pop and a tiny bit is released from the tank. Is this a problem with the trigger or the tank? Please say the tank.

I can't quite tell how the tubes are attached, but if they're able to be removed from the SMDTG trigger, you could switch the second tank for one of the other two and see how it works, but if the tubing is gooped/whatever, it would be difficult.
If its leaking from the trigger, it sounds like more of a trigger issue. Is it leaking from the connector by chance though?

It looks pretty good, you could always just use shorter pvc guides to clean up the gun, though it would look like less barrels. How stable is the pump on the side? Pumps glued onto things always worry me, but i guess i'm not as gentle as i should be. Awesome mod.

I need to get a SMDTG trigger...

Nice! I really like it. Simple, cheap, and still effective. I might go for 3/4 to make a marvelous salvo without the SMDTG trigger. Then i can fire them separately and not have to get the SMDTG trigger... Definitely a nice idea. I can't wait for the second version.

Ok, Since I'm a semi-newb to air gun mechanics, How does a back pressure valve work? a pretty paint picture work.

Basic Idea. Sorry it's crappy, taking a break from my lab report, so i had to rush.

Top one is the outside view.
Opening the valve (pressing the brass stud in this case) reduced the pressure in the small chamber, so then the air pushes the piston back, opening up the barrel, so the air rushes out.

That is CRAZY! I wold love to have a couple hundred of these and have a huge party. Did you do internal mods like remove AR's or is it purely cosmetic?

They recently commissioned us to build 105 modified & painted Nerf EX pistols.

thats pretty cool but why does the company need that many guns?

...but they arrived in time for the press release the next day. The plan was to hand these out in File folders to all of the members of the press. Each folder contained a gun some paperwork on the game, and 5 darts. At the end of the meeting they opened the folders and had an all out foam free for all!

Ok, seriously, read.

Looks nice, what did you do on the bottom? And the sides? The little L kinda part (to clip or tie it to something) is cut off, then you replaced it, what did you use there? Also, the part that pulls back on the gun is different too, looks good. That's definitely some nice work, even if you were pretty rushed.

Looks nice, what did you do on the bottom? And the sides? The little L kinda part (to clip or tie it to something) is cut off, then you replaced it, what did you use there? Also, the part that pulls back on the gun is different too, looks good. That's definitely some nice work, even if you were pretty rushed.

I think you are confusing the two different blasters. Some are the Eliminators, and some are the Reflex. The reflex units have the 'L' you are referring to, along with the N-Strike tactical rail (ridiculous, I know).

Oops, I guess all the ones I looked at in the picture were the one's with the L, then all the ones in the later pictures were of the other styles. I didn't know they made two styles of those guns...

(image)

Top one is the outside view.
Opening the valve (pressing the brass stud in this case) reduced the pressure in the small chamber, so then the air pushes the piston back, opening up the barrel, so the air rushes out.

I believe you're describing a piston valve, like this. Piston valves are commonly used in spudguns, and are essentially homemade QEV's.

It's what's used in the Big Salvo and the like, which is what K9 asked about. I guess it is a piston valve.

How does the air go from the smaller tank into the larger outer tank?

I tried to draw it, but it's hard to see, the piston part with the rubber head has two holes on the side to let the air pressure equalize on both sides of the piston. Or, if there aren't two holes, its not a perfect tight fit and air can squeak past on the sides to equalize pressure. I can't remember.

http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=15455 has some good pictures of BS and hornet tanks.

Yes. I don't see what is wrong with that post. I'll check harde though.

Not everyone has "ride to war" credits. So its easy to not understand, i had to read it a few times and look at your location...

He can't come because he can only get driven to one war (or something) and he's going to save that for a warmer one.

I was hoping I could come, but I have a few midterms next week so I won't be able to make it. I still need to work on getting a primary too... (College is killing my ability to mod, no tools here).

I'll be at some Ohio wars this summer for sure.

Has anyone ever singled a magstrike?

Singled as in so the clip advances one at a time? If so, I think I read that you can put electrical tape along the side of the clip to slow it down.

Or singled as in you load one dart, shoot it, load another and repeat? If so, I doubt anyone has done it, because it would be dumb. The magstrike is all about RoF.

I've already searched.

You searched and couldn't find ANY effective mods of the PAS of all guns?

You're just trying to get people to do your work for you, we'd look in the mod directory for the mod you want, why don't you do the same?

Or, just mod it however you want. Experiment, do some science.

Edit: Look into K9's mod, the K9Special or put a coupler on the end. Whatever you want, ranges or RoF.

Splitlip, 51 is quite reasonable for the HEAVY MODS that took place on this mav. He just proved other wise, too.

Good mod, you took the time and effort put into a piece of shit to make is a waiting to break polished piece of shit.


Just saying, you invested a good amount of resources into a blaster that will break, take more resources to repair and get back to normal, and it's effective usage in Nerf wars is fairly low.


But look on the bright side, you got a nice little polished gun.




It's still shit though.

Or, now he can destroy indoor wars because of the high RoF and nice ranges. Anything higher is really too much for indoors (well, at least where I play) and starts to push able to break things.

What do you mean its waiting to break? Maybe a little more reinforcement, but gluing the rotating mech and foaming the plunger is hardly risky business.

I think I'm definitely going to do this to my mav. (Most of it is already done, actually...) Just need to foam the plunger and add a rubber band. Much better way of doing it than my method.

It sounds like a couple games I know of...

First, Last year, the sophomores I live with played assassin in the dorm. You got your target, but you had to put a post-it note on their back instead...


Really what it sounds like is what we called "Senior Tag" at my high school.

Rules were this:
Each round lasts one week (Midnight Monday morning to Midnight Saturday night), Sundays off. Teams are 5 or 6. (My year is was 6, normally 5.)

The goal is to have more remaining players "in" at the end of the week. To get someone out, you had to shoot them with a squirt gun. (Some schools play with nerf guns, our school is always water guns). But, a player cannot get shot when: At school, on school grounds, at a school event (sports), sports practice, inside a house (unless the other team is invited in), but can get shot out at senior lunch. (Where seniors leave school to go where we want for lunch.

Two teams play each other, the winner advances tournament style. If there is a tie in the players remaining, rock paper scissors is done on Sunday to determine the winner.

Oh, and the kicker, if you're naked, you cannot be tagged out. (And cannot shoot.)

It was pretty ridiculous, you would follow people home from school, out at lunch, and otherwise totally be a creep. Fun as hell though. My team made it to the final four (of 34 teams) where we lost in rock paper scissors with 6 remaining players each because we got sick of it.

There are no write ups, people who have made them didn't think it was necessary. Neither do I.

And you bitched at someone else for saying the same thing man. Pick a fucking side.

Anyway, I would cut off the little tab in the back of the slide, then put it in the bipod area. It seems like a pretty natural, and then you could cock it by pushing forward. Seems like it would work.

Oh, so now I'm not allowed to say that some things are simple? Jesus fucking christ! That's taken completely out of context. Me and Split were talking about a completely different thing.

No, you were talking about how people should make threads for everything, and Split was saying somethings do not deserve threads.

This is one of those threads.

Stefans are cheap to make. Make like 3 with one BB, 3 with two BBs, and then see which works better.

And how to integrate a maverick? Well, you could just glue it on, or look around at some other threads for ideas. (Picture/Paint Job thread?) Or, you could just search.

Only way to reduce the cost would be to send it in pieces. Something that big and heavy will cost a ton, more of a regular sized box is probably the only way to go.

No, you were talking about how people should make threads for everything...

Wow, really? I never said that. Anywhere. Don't shove words in my mouth, I was saying what I made deserved to be a thread. I said it was different several posts earlier because I actually posted a write-up and this person posted a request for one. Read up on what your talking about before throwing out comments like that.

Edit: Haha, thanks cheez

The creators obviously feel that it wouldn't be worth it to make a whole thread about it. That's how I feel. Anyway, like others have mentioned and shown, the sliding brass breech is nothing new, and definitely not something needing a new name.

I definitely disagree about the making a thread thing. If there's something you've created that can benefit others than why the hell should you not share it with others? Have you looked at the mod directory lately? There about 15 billion NF write-ups, that are all really similar. But people continue to post them because of new innovations they have found or easier ways of achieving the same thing. In my eyes, that's one of the purposes of the mods and homemades section: so people can make augmentations and innovations to people's stuff, in other words building on others' work....

So if you're disagreeing about the making a thread thing, you think ideas that could benefit others should be shared. Which means there should be more threads.

There are no write ups, people who have made them didn't think it was necessary. Neither do I.

However, here you say that threads which would have helped people (for instance, the origional poster), are not necessary, and should not have been made.

It just seems hypocritical. I guess I don't really have a problem with it, but whatever.


Anyways, to help this thread along, http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=10517 is a topic all about a LS/mav integration. It's a little old (about a year) but it should still be able to help with some ideas for how to do it. (Such as scout style for a titan, mounted on the side)

Edit: Fixed a few spacing issues.

Taken the disagreement to PM.

Sorry the topic has digressed, Onyx, however, I think the link from my previous post could prove helpful.

Edit: Bogboogalars, looks effective, however attaching guns like that always makes me worry they'd break. Especially when its a high movement part of the mav like the cocking slide.

For example, If you are trying to broil water in order to cook pasta, you would not want to use a 4 gallon pot to broil 6 cups of water. There would be lots empty space that would time for the heat to fill. However, if you were to use a smaller pot, the water would broil faster due to the lesser volume of the pot which would allow it to get hotter faster. I am pretty sure that this example is true. If it is not a good example to use here, please notify me and I will remove it.

Yeah, bad example. Because specific heat is still the same and if anything it would boil faster in a bigger pot because it's shallow, meaning there's less pressure to overcome as the vapor pressure of the water at the bottom of the pot increases at the heat source. In short, I see no correlation to Nerf.

Depth or surface area of the water has no impact on vapor pressure. It would boil faster in that large pot if it increased contact with the heat source, so less energy was wasted. (Maybe over an open fire, or an electric stove that doesn't shrink the heat down to the size of the pot).

For dead space in a nerf gun, the air you're moving (via built up pressure from a pump gun, or from the plunger of a spring gun) will fill all the dead space first, then try to push the dart out of the barrel. You're "wasting" air almost, Draconis's point about the recon vs the TTG is a good example.

Run the tubing directly to that little tank. That should make it shoot farther, as it would only fill ip that tank, then fire. I believe it would work, but don't take my word for it.

Seconded, It'll take a lot less pumps too. It also makes the whole thing smaller so you can cut down some of the bulk, or integrate something if you like the shell.

Also, what's the point of the coupler if you're going to ramrod? You could try cutting down the front of the shell so you can pull the barrel off and load a dart into the back, then replace it, or go with the double barrel, offset so you can flip it to shoot the other side.

Here is a place thanks Tantum Bull for saying concrete industry becuase then I found this in like a minute.
http://www.bracingsy...&ig=Backer Rods

It looks good, except for this:

A shipping charge of $20.00 will be assessed on all orders less than $100.00 within continental United States. Returns are handled on a case by case basis. If you are unhappy with the performance of any product or there is a malfunction please contact us 1-800-501-7150.

Also, I think they have the McMaster kind of shipping, they tell you when the bill comes.

Columbus would be perfect, I've been waiting for a central ohio war... (Being in college it's a little hard to drive to the Cinci or Cleveland due to lack of car).

Mid June would be good for me, OSU gets out around then.

I really hope this gets done, should be awesome.

The 6th isn't good for me (and the 2 or so I hope to bring), that's the saturday before exams for me. Any weekend after that would be perfect though.

Would it be possible to inset another valve between the Titan tank and the Magstrike bladder which would allow me to fire off three shots in a row?

No, you would need a third tank. And even if you added one, the air in the magstrike bladder would have to fill all 3 tanks and the tubings before you could shoot, so a third tank would just result in cruddy ranges and a lot more pumping.

Nice work, it'll be interesting to see where it leads.

It's the weekend before finals before me... but it's so close...

I'm a maybe, +1-3 depending on who I can get to come.

It'll be my first war, but I'm really looking forward to it. I'll be bringing some foam and stefans (fits cpvc) to sell, but if you want stefans give me a heads up and I'll go ahead and make extras.

This should be a blast, I hope we have more in Columbus throughout the rest of the summer.

I will be there (unless something big comes up with exams or something), with two more, maybe a third if I can convince him to go.

If anyone has a spare primary (preferably with cpvc barrels so my darts will work) they could lend my friend (or two, if the other guy comes), they and myself would be very appreciative. If its of concern, they are both in college and are responsible not to break anything.

So, me +2 for sure, maybe a third.

UberKhul and his friend were from Cincy too, says his location.

Group: Members
Posts: 41
Joined: 24-October 08
From: Cincinnati Ohio
Member No.: 20859


Overall, I (as well as my brother and friends) had a lot of fun. I really liked the location (though this was my first war), the tree area as well at the playground was nice. We will definitely need to have more columbus wars this summer. Maybe then I'll have more darts and guns... sorry about that. As soon as exams are over this week, it's time to get modding to be ready for the next one.

I'll take the hint, Badwrench, and add it to my RSCB BBBB that was shooting all the darts... (actually, I don't think my friend was using it right).

I really like the design, works well. I'll try this out on my PAS with an rscb and see if it hinders anything, but on a BBBB there's so much air it won't make a difference.

I think a fully (or mostly) deadspace blocking piece would be do-able. You could add a flare or something on the back of the dowel to block out the tube, then dremel out the T coupler to allow the flare to drop down with the dowel to allow the next dart forward.

Looks good, I'll be sure to try it out.

Either work for me, and hopefully my group again.

We do need another, thanks for getting the ball rolling.

I'll most likely be there, along with +2 for sure almost, If I'm there, maybe more.
I can't wait for this one, should be a blast.

I may have some +bows for sale... PM me if anyone's interested.

Ok, I've tried, from what I can tell, every possible method of solving this problem, and yet, to no avail.

My +bow's ranges have been on the low end since I recieved it (90-100 ft.). The bow was made by RyanMcnumbers, and was one of his personal +bows, and he vouched for it hitting at range. My original dart/barrel fit was mile high black slug style darts in OMC's thick walled PETG, 12" barrels. No good. However, I had used a silicon spray lube before I put it together. I found out that that could enlarge the rubber washer, so I started from scratch with a new rubber washer. I tried another lube, but then decided it was too thick, and that was the cause for the continuing bad ranges. Now, I'm using a bit of silicon o-ring grease, which I've heard is the correct stuff. Still no good. Then, I heard swift nerf foam in CPVC would yeild good results. Well, I tried, and again, no good. It worked for like a shot or two, but it must've been a lucky dart, because since, I haven't been able to hit past 100. I've used multiple dart/barrel combos, lengths, etc. and I have the same results over and over.

The odd part is though, is that with an RSCB and either of the above dart/barrel combos, I'm still hitting above 90 consistently (6 shot RSCB).

I've had no luck with this gun, and if someone could give me a reason why this could be happening, and help me finally solve this, I would very much appreceate it.

How heavy are your darts? What are they weighted with? If they're too light they won't go as far as they should, the +bow has a ton of power, so it needs heavier darts. With the rscb, the darts are receiving a little less "oomph" so the lighter weight is not as big of an issue, so you're getting good ranges.

I should have some pics of my +bows up in the next couple days. Still putting them together.

How important is the lock washer on the 3/8" screws? I didn't realize each +bow needed more than 20, so I only got one pack of 100 screws to use on 5 blasters. I've been cutting down 3/4" screws to use in place of some of the 3/8", they just don't have the lock washer. It should be alright on some of the less crucial pieces such as the back stock and others, right?

I'm still definite with +2, maybe 3, but unlikely for anymore. Maybe 3.

Do we have a Defend the Core frame or anything for Saturday? If no one else has one made, I can slap one together out of PVC.

Anyone planning on selling anything? I don't want to bring extra cash if I don't need to.

I'll have +bows. I might be looking to buy some other guns if people bring 'em.

This will be a blast, I can't wait.

Are you able to dismantle the set up and try the blaster singled with the same diameter brass? It seems like you can remove the PVC part and single it.

If your darts are too loose, it could be a problem, although tightening rings can offset it. However yours seem really tight as you describe them. Can you fashion a new barrel with not-so-tight rings? If you're getting solid ranges from that you can cross it off the list. Maybe try adding 4" of dead space in it too, to see what the maximum can be.

How long is your barrel, too? By "-The dart travels about 9" in the barrel", does that mean the dart moves 9 inches down then exits? Or sometimes does it not shoot? I haven't used brass, but would you be able to make a barrel attachment with some 19/32" (or something to act as a coupler between two pieces of your 9/16" barrel) to add an inch or two to the barrel and try it like that? With brass it seems you should be able to get a smooth enough, close enough connection to try a longer barrel by adding a little bit via a coupler. It would be harder to check shorter barrels, but maybe if you have a ton of spare brass.

From what you describe, it has to be something with the darts/barrel/clip. Silly question, but is the clip air tight? Are you losing some of the power there? Again, I haven't used an n-strike clip in anything other than a stock LS in an indoor war, but you may be losing air to it, not sure.

Hope that helps, it's a nicely done mod, nice write up too.

Edit: Forgot to remove the quotes I used as a reference.

How have you reinforced the rotating mech? It sounds like the turret and plunger aren't aligning perfectly every time. But when they do align, good things happen, like you said.

I pretty much did everything that angel did for the rotation mech, as for the turret seal i couldn't get the hotglue thing to work so the seal remains stock.

Then it's certainly the seal. The seal would explain why sometime you get great shots and sometimes you do not. The turret seal is very important, as you can tell, so definitely improve that.

It's not your barrels, 6" is already short, shortening won't help you. Making them a little longer might, especially if you improve the turret seal because more air will be getting to the barrels, so they could be longer.

Finally finished up 5 +bows...







Used mine at a war (the one with the rscb holder) this weekend, it worked pretty well, thanks for the design, Slug.

Three of them will be for sale, I'll post a thread probably tomorrow, or you can PM me now if you're interested.

i was the fat guy with the painted big bad bow. that playground is only good for the team going towards the school. the team that starts closer to the school has such a disadvantage with terrain.

Honestly, I thought the exact opposite. The tree to the left of where you start close to the school pretty much let me shut down anyone coming in that direction. I noticed the guys with PAS's and the + bow doing the same thing.

I liked the tree area a little better though as well, as it made it a little spread out and easier for me to run and dodge.

I'm still a maybe for either date, but if more people are going the 8th, I say we go for it.

I guess I'm indifferent about the playground, I kinda like it, but the rain just made it harder to use (can't run as much).
However, I'm with minsc, that tree is OP, I was on of those guys with the +bow/PAS holding the tree, it was good for either side to take and it really shut down the other side.

I wouldn't mind going back to the same park, and either date works for me (and likely my group) right now, but we don't really plan that far in advance, I'll let you guys know if I can come closer to the date. But I have no preference.