Forgive me if this comes off as offensive, but what does this writeup provide as a guide that any of the writeups or videos you posted at the beginning of the post couldn't? Wouldn't I be better off reading or watching a tutorial that you based your writeup on, versus looking at the paraphrased one above?

Just got an X box and Kinect so...

Gamertag: Spud Spudoni

Games I have as of now:

Left 4 Dead 2

Yes

Not many people ever made a +Bow or L+L plunger tube out of steel tubing, so that's a good start. I own a Steel PT +Bow that I got from Louiec3, and as far as I know, he was the only one to ever use that material. A lot of other tell tale signs lead me to believe that he built this (e-tape around the front bushing, and style of bushing; all similar to mine). I may be wrong, but Louie is gonna be your best bet.

Unfortunately, you won't have much luck finding any polycarbonate at Lowe's or Home Depot. From my experience, they sell almost all plexiglass, which is slightly different in its tolerances. However, cutting board is a cheap, and strong material that can be used to make just about anything that polycarbonate can be made out of. I'd look into that.

That's funny... I buy all of my thinwall 1-1/2" PVC from stores. Lowe's and HD, specifically.
[/quote]

Yeah, SC is a little slow in the noggin when it comes to getting anything, especially brass.

Thanks for the input guys.

Yeah NerfGeek, I would have tried threaded couplers, but I wanted the pump handle to feel connected. It's just so much nicer that way.

A word of warning: the tube I mentioned earlier is MUCH weaker that PVC, so don't try putting the strongest springs you got in it. I have two Home Depot springs in mind, and they should work just fine.

I was looking for thinwall 1 1/2 inch PVC. I was going to use it for a pump handle on my WIP RAINSnap. I knew it wasn't at any store, but I also didn't want to order it from FlexPVC. Too much money for the length I needed, too much hassle...

...I was at Home Depot with my dad one night. He need some adaptor for his RIGID Shop vac. I was done looking around so I waited with him until he was done. I noticed that RIGID also had vacuum tubes that attach to the Shop Vac. There were two pipes, so I picked the smaller one in dimaeter. I then took it over to the PVC and the end that was not tappered was perfect for the pump handle. All you need to do is cut it down before it tappers and you have a solid pump handle for half of the price!

Do what ever you want. It is not our gun, nor our decision. I would suggest an angel breech if it was up to me, which it isn't.
Crap, Diamondback beat me to the point.

Ha! I've got one of those! It's missing it's feed tube but functional. It does work with normal ballistic balls and is a fun lutzy semi auto blaster. It's currently out for a commissioned upgrade to run on a 3s and fang motors. We've run into some flywheel problems though. the old are not liking the new motors. We're hoping it will be able to spit out ballistic balls at or near rival speeds. Once all that's done i might try to mod it up with a hopper to turn it into a ballistic caliber nemisis.

I'm curious about the size of this thing. Do you have any pictures of it out of the box? The perspective on that rendering is so cranked, its hard to get a feel of its proportions.

Tropical Persuasion


Just came to my head and I was like.... YES!!

A huge problem (as said above) is the spread that our community has on different social platforms. While its certainly allowed for more people to explore and discover our hobby, it has really spread us too thin as a community. When I was younger, I really used to hate the strict rigidity the moderation team kept in running the site. While nothing is wrong at all with how its run now, nor any other online forum outside of this, but the tight ship that Nerfhaven was made sure that content and conversation stayed on track and was useful for the community's growth.

 

Also abiding by the older rules of forums before reddit's rise is just too much work for most people now and is a turn off now that other alternatives exist. Information and posting is much easier on reddit and facebook, but you'll rarely ever see a composed writeup or build guide there which is why Nerfhaven remains a beacon to some in that way to easily work through the archives.

 

I just really wish there was a way for reddit/facebook and NH to coexist in a way where both could be utilized together, but theres too much overlap for new users to jump backwards I'm afraid.

It's Always Sunny in Philidelphia, or The Walking Dead

Maybe you should try putting that money in the bank so you can save it and not spend it. That way you can by something cool. I had the same problem with my cash. It wasn't pretty.

What's up Veg

 

As of recently, the South East Nerf Community kind of exploded and exists mostly on FB now. They have wars monthly if I remember, but they are almost all "superstock" which are lightly modded springer or flywheel blasters using stock darts so not really the same place where things like +bows with speedloaders play well together. They usually get one to two "NIC" (homemade, heavily modded blasters, homemade darts) a year, but haven't been able to host any in the last year. So hell if I know at this point if it'll ever get back to higher powered blasters in GA.

There's a whole writeup for it here: http://nerfhaven.com...the-tornadobow/

Just out of curiosity, are there any homemade Nerf AEGs?

No, for the reasons said above.

I meant the plunger tubes beside the mag. Like a sandwich [plunger mag plunger]

Uh, there's only one plunger tube. Two side by side with a magazine in the middle would make your handle at least 4" wide which isn't exactly a handle anymore. Even if you reduce the diameter of the two plungertubes, getting proper air output and them firing together consistently does not work.

I also agree that the newer nerfers want these for status symbols...
...Do you think it's compensating for something?

Yeah I saw this book a few days ago on amazon. It seems more interesting now. Thanks for the inside information.

[quote name='carlough' date='Jul 11 2009, 08:50 AM' post='241414
But I think the string may have been an attempt at cushioning....
I think.
[/quote]

The string is used to keep his darts from falling into the plumger when the gun is primed.

Do you think you will do contracts for this gun?

Sweet. Someone finally posted a topic on this gun. Good thing I got this.

Wasn't the song in the video by Girl Talk? Sounded like him.

This reminded me of my trip to Ohio two weeks ago. The mountains looked the same.
On another note, I liked the music from Mirror's Edge.

It worked on my I pod touch... Or Angel might have just fixed it.

It's shown above in the chart and not mentioned, but the 9637K36 spring makes for a really strong catch spring. I found out about it on some other forum post here, but it makes for a great catch spring replacement on nitefinders, firestrikes, and other brand blasters. Also great in rainbow catch-style builds. It comes in a pack of three and is about 10" long, making it easy to cut down for whatever size you want.

Reminds me of the splitfire. (The pin length that is).

EDIT: I think this might be buzz bee's first air gun to actually fire darts.

It looks like all that was done was that you took apart a water gun, and put a handle on its intenals.

Multimeter

#2, useless suggestion.  A multimeter cannot tell you how much current a switch can handle.  Only specifications can do that, without surgery and mathematics.

Yes it does. You switch it to test continuity. They are made specifically to do that. 

What a great way of reducing the amount of parts you need to throw away with this mod. Very clean too, good work.

WOW. At first I thought you may have somehow integrated a raider into the sound effects blaster. Then I saw that it WAS a raider. I was amazed how you created the foldable stock as the forgrip of the gun. The creativity of of that, plus the scope is unbelivable. Hats off to you.

I was thinking of doing this to make the super energy complex but I didn't have air tech or a monkey. Great job anyway.

Although I have no pictures of it, I cut a dash into the front of the handle and slid a metal angle bracket into the handle. Once the angle bracket is on top of bolt in the catch ring, screw the bracket into the Snap loosley to allow it to move.


How the Angle bracket is placed on bolt:

Well, that is pretty much it. Nothing much else to it. The catch seems well secured and the catch is very hard to release. However, with the help of the lever action from the trigger, this will be very easy to do.
I used two Home Depot springs and a neoprene washer setup for my pull back Snap. Ranges and firing test are in the video.

[/Youtube][/Youtube]

I would love some feedback guys! Thanks for checking it out!

Alright, now to start off, I would like to thank Inferno for his very detailed pump action snap with tee coupler catch design, and Setro for his americanized coupler catch design. Also, Sgnerf for the original design.

Flaws in the original design:

-Limited to a vertical peice of PVC as your handle.
-Unsigtly tee jutting out of your blaster
-Parts of a shotgunned version would be seperated


In this design, I fix all of these problems.

Here is some of my original sketches for the design:




Materials for the catch system:
-3/4 in PVC Tee
-2 #8? Finishing washers
-3/4 in CPVC
-1/2 in CPVC
-Small Home Depot Spring (Exact sizes in the writeup)
-washer in the catch (Exact sizes in the writeup)
-E-Tape
-Super Glue
-cut down 10-24x1 1/2 Bolt
-Dremel of any type with a cone shaped diamond sanding bit and metal cutting bit
-Drill with drill Bits
-8x1/2 screws (to bolt it in place)
-3/4 in PVC
-Epoxy Putty
-1 1/4 in PVC Coupler
-metal Angle Bracket
1 1/4 in PVC



Now to start, The only way to make the catch not jet out of the back of the Snap, is to make it internal. I have found that the bottom of the tee is not neccessary. Only the ridge on the inside of the fitting is.

First, grab your 3/4 inch PVC Tee

Then cut the Tee down. This part really doesn't matter. Just cut it down so it esaier to sand later.

From here, sand the tee down so it fits nicely in the 1 1/4 in PC. You may have to sand the the middle of the coupler down. It doesn't matter as long as you have the two end sections have the lip still. It is also important to sand the inside ot the tee so that the catch ring fits, as well as the plastic bit that is on the side of the tee. It will not fit unless this is sanded down.


Here is the Tee being test fit inside the PC.



Next, the internal parts of catch needs to be made. By using previous writup, cut your 3/4 inch PVC to the length of the Tee. Then cut a 1/2 inch section off for the catch ring. Then cut the excess in half for the two supporting ends. The purpose of these is to keep the Plunger rod in position, and to keep the catch ring from moving too much.

For the catch ring supports, wrap them in E-tape and fit them into both ends of the tee. Super glue them in place.


Now for creating the catch ring setup.

First, cut your 10-24x1 1/2 Bolt to about 2 cm.
For the washer, I used a washer with the OD of 1'', and the ID that is a little less than 5/16''.
For the spring, I used a spring in Home Depot's Assorted Spring Kit. The product number is #471864. The spring length is 13/16''. The diameter is about 1 cm. The spring needs to be cut down to between 8/16 and 9/16''. I used a bolt with a triangular shaped head. Your spring size may vary according to what type of screw you use.

I then took a #8? finishing washer, flipped it upside down, and glued it to the washer using super glue. The purpose of this is to keep the spring from moving around on the washer.


To help with this process, I used another finishing washer and placed it on the bolt head to keep the spring from slipping off the catch. Now just drill a centered hole through the CPVC and place the assembly on this. You may have to super glue the bolt to the CPVC for stability.
Again, here it is assembled:


Test fit the Catch in your tee. If it fits and the wacher is stable, then you have done something right.


Now in order to use this, you must make a sizable hole in the blaster in order to make sure that the catch can be released.
Once you have found the place you want you catch put in, mark a line on the PC from the center line inside of the tee.

I then drilled a 7/32 hole in the PC where I wanted the catch to be located. A higher caliber drill bit would be ideal, but that was the highest I had at hand. From there. take your diamond cutting cone bit on your dremel, and dremel out the PC until you can fit your catch ring in place.
From this:


To this:


Test fit the tee


Fit the catch ring in place:


In order to use this blaster, you must have an internal Trigger to fire it. I used a modified version of BoltSniper's PVC handle. It is angled, and is attached to half of a 1 and 1/4'' PVC coupler using Epoxy Putty.






I then drilled a hole in the center of the Coupler that would fit over the bolt in the catch.



Now test fit the handle on the PC.

 

And this is the kind of attitude that is going to keep us "casuals" away from your NIC wars. There is already a division between NIC and Superstock so you guys can keep to yourself. I'm gonna keep having fun playing in public parks with blasters I don't have to worry about pelting pedestrians with.

Yeah, you were missunderstanding me a bit, and that's okay. That was totally my fault and did not intend to illicit that response. Honestly I felt that NIC powered blasters could be a little overpowering if I was playing with a lot of people running superstock blasters. As others have said, superstock definitely wins in rate of fire, but when you go to an NIC war, you'd expect the power coming out of a homemade or any other NIC blaster. If a bunch of people came to a SE war with superstock blasters because they are fans of our wars/people and want to go, no matter what type of play style we are running that day (NIC, superstock, etc), I wouldn't want to alienate people or have them feel burdensome.

 

That's what is difficult about the rise of Superstock with NIC, is that as long as its nerf, some people would just assume as long as its a nerf war, they'll be fine. Which may or may not be the case. Again, sorry for the confusion. Not trying to create any sort of animosity that isn't there.

Great work putting this together, hope to see more of them

 

Discussion Topic:

Do you feel superstock-style blasters and ammo are viable in an NIC war, where many people are using homemade darts and blasters? Would you be more or less likely to attend an NIC war that had a few superstock rounds mixed into it?

 

Super-stock blasters and ammo are definitely viable, only if you're willing to work to make it so. When we had people play in one of the opens fields we had with stock blasters, their best defense was agility. Superstock is very much a run-and-gun when put up against homemade caliber, hoppered blasters. As far as superstock being mixed in, I wouldn't mind a round or two. When we tried out awfuls rounds for the first time, it was much more enjoyable than I'd thought. However, as long as superstock doesn't dominate what we do, or what kind of crowd a war draws in, I don't mind. The minute the majority of people at a war have superstock blasters for an NIC war, is when I'd probably not feel comfortable using my baster against them.

*Missed a setence. Nevermind*

Good looking blaster.
I have a question, does the Spectre still have the same priming bar design like the Maverick where it breaks easily?

You KNOW I'll be there. Can't wait.
EDIT: For now, I will be bringing one guest...

So the top "Crossbow scope" is the pullback to prime the blaster? Would that not spring forward when fired, and hit your face if it was leaned against the stock?