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Despite getting some weird ultrasound on my heart, they doctor wasn't sure about the hearty-explody thing, so I still run every day; it was probably the most expensive physical I've ever gone in for (insurance didn't cover ultrasound for some reason).
EDIT: I'm going to have to take back what I said since it was extremely vague. What you are asking about requires a bit of extra work; it isn't exactly simple. For help working offline at times, check out this forum discussion.
One thing I notice that differs in design, though, is the way your breach system works. The reason my system was a bit awkward was due to the inside slider as opposed to the much simpler outside slider. My reason for going with the inside slider was that there would be no change from larger to smaller diameters as the dart exits, and the effect of an ideal BBB barrel would be created each time a dart is chambered, with no rough surfaces for resistance and all the proper diameters. This seemed to be a positive change, to go to a simpler plan which probably results in perfectly useful ranges.
Another difference was that you used the upper slider to attach to the loader, which was something I had initially envisioned before needing leverage for the inner slider; of course using the lower (larger) sliding shell to attach to would be impractical when using large plastic piping as you did.
A last difference I'd like to point out is the use of a deodorant stick for a clip. While this is fine for you specifically (and the lid makes it very convenient), the deodorant stick is not a standard size, so people may not be able to reproduce it as easily. If you can make a receiver, the audio tape case is reliably the perfect size for stock darts and stefans cut to the proper size.
Sweet work Forsaken, reap the rewards of a high ROF BBB. Here's to hoping I don't sound presumptuous.
By the way, extremely clean mod, nice!
Also, how does it feel so far in terms of sturdiness? Are all of the parts fitting well together and sturdy, or does it feel like it would break if you hit it a little too hard on something?
Click This For Fullsize
Here's my take on the reissue of the big bad bow. Unfortunately, I haven't had access to a decent digital camera for a while, but I promise to have good photos up very soon. If there is enough interest I will bother to create a writeup. Flat grey paintjob by the way (if you can't bear the photos).
The breech is simply 17/32" brass within a special cut piece of 9/16" brass. The beauty of this breech is that it does not waste barrel lineage, as the breech slides back over the dart, creating an excellent, clean seal (which requires no shell). It's lubricated with silicon (silicone? wish I understood the difference) lubricant to ensure smooth loading. I may as well mention the barrel briefly now. After browsing for a recommended barrel type for the bbb, I ran into cxwq's suggestion, and stuck with it: 2" of 17/32" at the start nested in 6" of 9/16", all inside of 10" of 19/32". My setup gives the effect of these measurements, though not built quite the same. The breech slider offers that first 2", the breech piece gives the 4" in its size, and then the last 4" is covered by 19/32". What you see in the photos is some sch 80 pvc to protect the fragile brass assembly. At the very beginning of the barrel, there is a piece of dental floss taught tight across the diameter of the barrel, which is crucial to the functioning of my breech system (explained later).
This clip (8 dart capacity) is actually made from a normal tape/cassette case with one end dremeled off. I've had the most luck with "Scotch High Position XSII-S 100 IEC Type II" tape cases since they have the least amount of excess crap on the inside to sand down. After dremeling away at the case and adding some nice black masking tape, I ended up with a perfect clip. Since this is a gravity system, the top dart is actually filled with weights evenly inside to press down on the other darts, and is not a fireable dart. In the photo there is a rubberband over the clip to prevent the darts from rolling out of the open end. This clip can be easily made, and with some velcro, many clips can be easily carried.
I had a bit of fun making this piece, which accepts the clip. It's a cut piece of plexiglass which I then heated with a candle along certain points, and bent, to form the shape you see. I marked the bend points ahead of time in sharpie to know where to heat and form right angles. If you decide to do this, make sure you have acrylic plexiglass and not polycarbonate, since polycarbonate is not a thermal plastic (will just make a big mess if you put it to the fire).
Parts I haven't explained yet
Once I take good photos, I'll be sure to have some detailed internal shots. The way the breech actually works is linked to the 'trigger' half of the gun. There is a length of coathanger (use musicwire in the future) which I carefully bent in several ways, which attaches to the trigger half, and slides along one side of the plunger assembly and out through one side of the gun. This piece is then attached to the sliding breech piece on one side (out of the way of darts), therefore making the breech move when the bbb is cocked. When the two parts are pushed together, the breech opens and a dart drops in; when pulled apart, the slider slips over the dart (which is held in place by the dental floss bit previously mentioned), and is ready to be fired.
Questions welcomed (I've left plenty out).
I haven't tested ranges yet, I'm letting the epoxy and epoxy putty fully cure first before firing (I've loaded darts to test the breech, but removed them manually).
What Illadar and Suave have said pretty much cover the action of the barrel if my explanation is confusing. Since the plastic parts I cut (sch 80 pvc, trimmed original barrel, reciever) fit together well, it makes for a sturdy gun with no sagging like many barrels I see.
Boltsniper, I don't know where I'd find the bandwidth/hosting for a clip of the gun in action.
When time permits, I will create a writeup, just very busy now.
Thanks for the compliments. Music wire, in a hobby store, is that stuff similar to coathanger metal, but more uniform and easier to work with, not to mention it comes in different diameters. For these reasons it's preferable to use if I were to do it over again.
Why did you say "use music wire in the future", PissBacon?
It's incredible how busy I've been lately; this project's full documentation has been put off for months because of all the things I've been dealing with. Hopefully some weekend I'll get around to a video and/or some accurate ranges.
Buzz bee really doesn't look to have original content comming out at the moment, and the cheap plastic really detracts from their guns, at least to me. Why would I buy the knockoff when I can get the real maveric for only a few bucks anyway? I'll wait to judge the other two new ones just yet, but my expectations are low.
It's tough enough to make a breech barrel, this one is impressively compact as the barrel slides instead of an arm for loading; getting it smaller that would be near impossible.
Mmmm maybe..You could make the breech smaller...and the barrel.
I really might have to look into this for a different version of my 4B. It's so much surdier than a coathanger and weld epoxy on brass. Nice work.
Point the gun so that the barrel is facing you.
Interesting instructions. Might you need a disclaimer?
From what I gather, silencers silence by allowing the escaping gas to slow down before exiting the barrel. The larger the volume, the quieter the noise will be, to a point where the size would make no noticeable difference. Making more holes is only compensating for a silencer which is not adequately sized. While holes may help quiet things down, they're really just allowing the noise to dissapate from a variety of angles and places instead of being focused in one place (you may not have dremeled the same amount or size of holes on all the silencers, accounting for the results favoring one over another). If you google the word 'silencer' you don't see holes in any real silencers. Considering there is a great deal more air volume to be dealt with in a nerf gun than in a real firearm, a working silencer will have to be possibly awkwardly large. To compensate for the greater volume, you could try using wider diameters of pipe or longer lengths.
Don't ignore this; this is very close to what is sought (actually, the idea of actionball is as close as it gets without being nerf). These seem to be properly weighted considering they're fired from paintball guns. There are still a few things to account for, such as the potential difference in barrel size, and the poor aerodynamics at low speeds (price is also quite high).
Actionball has foam balls used in paintball guns available. About $0.50 per ball though. I've seem them, they are pretty soft. Never felt one shot from a paintball gun though.
For homemade balls, that can be weighted easily, why not try crayola Model Magic foam? I've seen unweighted ones used in the same situations as Actionball. They are used in spring guns.
I'm not talking about balls, im talking about short FBR chunks.
If you think spheres aren't aerodynamic at low velocity, have a look at short FBR cylinders; I'm not even sure how much worse that option is.
Personally, I'm pretty interested in rifling a barrel for some ball-type ammo to stabilize shots, and just for the sake of nerf modding.
Though the current state of nerf will stay, if this grows successful I can imagine an increased gravitation towards paintballing, since anything we create will just be struggling to emulate the design and performance of professionally engineered paintball guns.
Covering a painful projectile with plastic tape will not make it any less painful.
Heres a possibility: Instead of bying 4000 of those things, take a bb or two and make a tape ball around it, lightweight, your bb is the centrat weight, and you can make planty. Just a thought, might not work.
And I believe it's already been emphasized, but weight is not the only issue of a projectile. It's ok for airsoft ammo to be so like because it's so tiny and thus has much lower wind resistance; a large foam ball with the same weight suffers much more drag. Why do you think throwing a large nerf ball at someone hurts much less than a small rock?
Additionally, the F-4 Phantom II caught my interest while playing Chuck Yeager's Air Combat; putting on the afterburners and nosediving ripped that baby's wings off after leveling out at 10 ft altitude.
P.S. Isn't it strange the first search of the F-4 in google images returns a pic with the f-4 and p-38 together?
I don't own a NF, and I'm not sure what a 'noid is. However, I can tell you where the switch is. If you look closely on the innards picture, you'll see where the trigger is connected to something with a bent metal rod. What it's connected to is the mechanism that opens the valve. On the very thing that presses on the valve pin is a rubber-covered switch which closes the circuit to the laser. It works quite well since the valve pin is held by a strong enough spring. So, to turn the laser on, pull the trigger a little, and then fire by pulling all the way.
Oh, the light is operated by a 'noid, like on the NF, right?
For about 2 weeks I've been working on gutting an old squirt gun (Storm 2000) out, and over the course of the project, I kept changing the innards more and more. Now that it's complete, I'd consider the inside more than half homemade. It's got an 18 inch aluminum barrel with back loading breach-like design. The barrel sounds long, but the volume of the tank makes sense for it. It's also got a laser in place of where some stupid light used to be on the squirt gun. I used the same battery compartment and the same on/off switch build into the trigger mechanism for the laser, and it works pretty nicely. Originally the barrel was much simpler, and I just shoved darts down. Using that design I got 170 feet flat with only 3/5 of the tank's maximum power (before pressure release kicked in). I'm new, and I'm guessing this has been done countless times before, but I'll post it anyway.
Innards, and a TT for scale
A look down the back of the gun, in case you don't understand how the breach works exactly.
The end stopper I designed. It goes in the back of the loading area and is tightened to create a seal.
This is where the laser was put in (front of gun).
This was heavily influenced by the R.s.c.b. loading system. The gun is basically a homemade fit inside of a squirt gun case for looks (however I did use a lot of the valves and stuff from the squirt gun). As for ranges, I'm going to be gone for a few days, and the epoxy won't be dry before then. Hopefully by posting the ranges I won't just be bringing back a dead topic.
P.S. Sorry about the typo in the topic name (I'm such an idiot).