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There have been 174 items by PissBacon (Search limited from 06-September 94)
-Smaller barrel for 1/2 inch (homemade) darts, also slightly longer
-No air restrictor
Since I took photos after doing the mod, I'll only have certain views.
This is the gun opened with the (aluminum) barrel already in.
As you can see, the barrel comes apart easily from the main part of the gun.
This is an important part of the barrel. It has to be cut neatly out so that air is allowed through easily, and should line up with the inserted barrel.
Finished product left side.
Finished product right side.
If the pictures won't load, it's because I dont have photobucket yet, so the geocities site might be over its limit.
This gun gets a pretty good range; I measured around 65 feet angled based on 3 test fires. I know other people have modded this gun, but I thought some looked kind of sloppy, so I made this one clean looking. The main issue i have with this gun is that it is noisy for being a small plunger-type gun. I can't figure any practical ways to make the noise quieter without reducing range.
For about 2 weeks I've been working on gutting an old squirt gun (Storm 2000) out, and over the course of the project, I kept changing the innards more and more. Now that it's complete, I'd consider the inside more than half homemade. It's got an 18 inch aluminum barrel with back loading breach-like design. The barrel sounds long, but the volume of the tank makes sense for it. It's also got a laser in place of where some stupid light used to be on the squirt gun. I used the same battery compartment and the same on/off switch build into the trigger mechanism for the laser, and it works pretty nicely. Originally the barrel was much simpler, and I just shoved darts down. Using that design I got 170 feet flat with only 3/5 of the tank's maximum power (before pressure release kicked in). I'm new, and I'm guessing this has been done countless times before, but I'll post it anyway.
Innards, and a TT for scale
A look down the back of the gun, in case you don't understand how the breach works exactly.
The end stopper I designed. It goes in the back of the loading area and is tightened to create a seal.
This is where the laser was put in (front of gun).
This was heavily influenced by the R.s.c.b. loading system. The gun is basically a homemade fit inside of a squirt gun case for looks (however I did use a lot of the valves and stuff from the squirt gun). As for ranges, I'm going to be gone for a few days, and the epoxy won't be dry before then. Hopefully by posting the ranges I won't just be bringing back a dead topic.
P.S. Sorry about the typo in the topic name (I'm such an idiot).
I don't own a NF, and I'm not sure what a 'noid is. However, I can tell you where the switch is. If you look closely on the innards picture, you'll see where the trigger is connected to something with a bent metal rod. What it's connected to is the mechanism that opens the valve. On the very thing that presses on the valve pin is a rubber-covered switch which closes the circuit to the laser. It works quite well since the valve pin is held by a strong enough spring. So, to turn the laser on, pull the trigger a little, and then fire by pulling all the way.
Oh, the light is operated by a 'noid, like on the NF, right?
I was reading some topics on darts and got this idea. It's (clearly) based on the Stefan dart, but on the end you can see I did something a little different. Using a new and sharp xacto blade cut it into that shape as cleanly and symmetricly as possible. Then, heat up the xacto blade with the hot tip of a glue gun. Using the xacto, make all 4 flat surfaces on the back there a bit melted using the xacto's flat sides so that air won't pass through. Add the weight and hot glue on the other end as usual, and you probably shouldn't bore a hole in this kind of dart. So far I've only made these with 1/2 inch rod, and I do 2 1/4 inches long, and the 1/4 inch area is cut. I don't have enough of these made yet to do comparison testing (they take a long time), but I would guess they will improve accuracy based on the same concept that makes bicycles work.
EDIT: I think I'll call it the Bacon Dart.
I've been busy with school and all, but I'll try to get some comparisons in soon. It seems most of my guns are out of comission at the moment, but I have a feeling these will work best in my 19 inch modded storm2000. I'll try it out with stuff like my tech target too though.
not to go crazy on correcting people.. but how soft a metal is has nothing to do with conductivity. In fact, gold is a great conductor, hence its use in lots of electric connections, especially audio connectors.
Silver is, I think, the best metal conductor, but I'm not totally sure so don't hold me to it. I know it's not gold because it's too soft.
For xmas i got a crybaby 535Q and 13 Songs
Which gun looks like a PC knockoff? I really can't wait for a new PC since I dont want to buy one off of somebody. Also the guns that appear to be smaller clip RF20s look like they have big potential, and with 2 to a pack it could be some great dual wielding.
The other one sounds like a PC knockoff.
PS: Laser Tag
I know it's not nerf, but for people making homemade guns, it could be a nice shell.