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#348507 Zeus Hopper

Posted by Birch on 24 August 2015 - 04:31 PM in Modifications

What is the diameter of the rival balls?



#353727 Zeus Hopper

Posted by Birch on 24 May 2016 - 07:55 AM in Modifications

Thanks for the good "inside" view as well as for this ammo idea :)

 

Do you think any flywheel-blaster could be turned into this kind of ball throwing machine by adjusting the flywheels?

Yes, but a whole new flywheel cage, as well as maybe even the flywheels themselves would have to be machined, and for that kind of money, you might as well just buy a zeus. 




#352563 Xplorer mods from singapore

Posted by Birch on 01 April 2016 - 09:16 PM in Modifications

They are not worth your money at all. Shity products at a ridiculous price. I would highly recommend checking out Zuark0 and Artifact Nerf Mods (I think you can find them on Facebook.) They do some high quality stuff, and I know Zaurk0 has a mag well converter for the centurion. 




#326659 Wyes on mcmaster!

Posted by Birch on 11 February 2013 - 06:29 AM in General Nerf

Good find! Though, these cost thirty-three cents more than FlexPVC charges; so this is only a better deal if you are already placing a McMaster order, because you'll save on shipping.
Also, FlexPVC is not the best retailer of wyes. PexSupply carries Spears brand wyes for eighty-four cents, which is thirty-four cents lower than FlexPVC and sixty seven cents below McMaster.



I know that flex pvc wyes are cheaper but isn't their shipping horrendously high?


I have known about this for a while.


How did you know about it , or are you getting mixed up with the schedule 80 ones?



#326594 Wyes on mcmaster!

Posted by Birch on 10 February 2013 - 06:52 AM in General Nerf

Hello nerfhaven!
I have just found an awesome surprise! Mcmaster-carr is now selling schedule 40 pvc wyes! I just ordered some for my PAC and might review them when I receive them. Mcmaster has sold wyes in the past but they cost like 6 bucks and they weren't schedule 40. It does say they ship within 2 weeks, but I'll see. I believe this new product came around when they updated their website. LInk: http://www.mcmaster....ttings/=lesvvy. Considering that I think mcmaster and flexpvc.com (where most people get schedule 40 wyes) have the same plastic pipe suppliers, mcmasters wyes wil probably be the same as basically everyone else's.



#347012 Would it work?

Posted by Birch on 31 May 2015 - 04:29 PM in Modifications

No reason why it shouldn't. Some words of advice though:

Do you have the significant knowledge, experience, and ingenuity to pull off an integration? If not, practise putting weird shit onto nerf shells and making look pretty. I did this a few times and it made my first integration go and look smoothly. Also, read up on how to paint nerf blasters. I recommend following this guide to the letter. It works really well.

Also, for the pvc barrel that goes through the crossfire bow, use a piece of pipe with a large I.D. I recommend 3/4 cpvc, 1 pvc, 3/4 thinwall pvc, or something around that size.



#339064 Why you cant use the word Sniper and other word filter shenanigans

Posted by Birch on 20 May 2014 - 03:15 PM in Site Feedback

Could you add guns as a word into the word filter. I feel that some people dislike nerf due to people calling them guns.



#346017 Why is xplorer so expensive!?!

Posted by Birch on 05 April 2015 - 08:49 PM in General Nerf

It is expensive but Xplorer stuff is really high quality. Their longshot kits are truly amazing and I'd love to try out their Xarrett kit (if I could afford it).


Not really, my friend got a longshot fighter kit and it was poorly constructed and offered little performance gain to just some basic longshot modifications. It is good but not worth anywhere near the price they sell it for.



#349195 Why is this wiki so strict?

Posted by Birch on 19 October 2015 - 05:20 PM in Site Feedback

What the mods on this forum are trying to do is attempt to make a forum that has intelligent discussion, and limited discussion at that. What this forum wants is refined ideas and intelligent ones at that. What I say is respect that. Lurk. Look at old threads and see where this hoppy has been, and see what you have to add. What the mods don't want are trolls and spammers who post way to much and have nothing intelligent to say. Posting a lot is fine, just make it worth it.



#337826 Why do slug darts need to be made with washers?

Posted by Birch on 29 March 2014 - 10:01 AM in Darts and Barrels

So, I have been making slugs for a couple of years now, I started off using washers and now use ball bearings, but these types of darts are not normally allowed at wars. The first washers I got were #8 washers and it was very hard to get a dart without exposed metal, so I switched over to #6 washers. These, albeit not giving much exposed metal, were too light and didn't shoot the distances the #8's. So I in light of this I switched over to these: http://www.mcmaster....6455k74/=razl3l , and no these darts are not glue domes, they have a felt pad over them, just like a slug dart. These give me no exposed metal, good weight, and are safer than washer slugs, due to their lack of exposed metal. So my question is why do people not allow them at wars if they are, in my opinion, safer that traditional slugs?

Addendum, I have no problems with the weight punching through the head of the dart due to the manner in which I constructed my darts. The order of operations goes: burn hole, hotglue, weight, a little hotglue, while glue is still hot, a felt pad. This procedure encases the metal in hotglue, bonding it to the foam, not just letting it sit in the hole in the foam.



#337841 Why do slug darts need to be made with washers?

Posted by Birch on 29 March 2014 - 03:07 PM in Darts and Barrels

I would think it's easier to center a washer than a ball bearing.

What kind of foam and washer are you using where you have exposed metal? 3/8" OD #6 washers should not be exposed with 1/2" foam.

Your answer...

Balls are easier to center because even if your hole is slightly off it's still not going to show out the side. They are a lot less wide than a washer, which has to be more or less perfectly centered.


I think I may try this....well at least if it becomes commonly accepted at wars.

I think using these weights may cause more pain since the weight isn't as distributed, but I have a feeling it should be pretty negligible.

In the end, I do agree that this is a competitive alternative to washer made slugs. Until proved otherwise, I wouldn't have a problem with people using them at my wars.

First of all the weight from the ball is distributed evenly through out the felt disk, so the pain is about the same as a traditional slug.

I am also pleased that you, as a war organizer have no problem with these.

Given similar weights, there is no scientific reason to not allow ball bearings but to allow washers. Many dart safety practices are voodoo, unfortunately, so they don't make sense. These practices are based on unverified ideas about what is safest, not realities about what is safest. I suggest bringing this up with local war organizers if you find it is an issue.

Yeah, I always thought that Kane and the like were just being ridicules with all of their "safe dart" concepts. He was making a non-proven dart to solve a non-existent problem.

Addendum: I think I was a little gratuitous with my comments of Kane the mediocre's "safe" and metal free dart campaign. I think that slugs were already the solution to glue dome(most dangerous type of commonly used dart)safety. I just thought that he was going farther than was necessary, and in the process making nerf blasters less powerful.



#337931 Why do slug darts need to be made with washers?

Posted by Birch on 31 March 2014 - 05:22 PM in Darts and Barrels

I am now starting to get a much clearer picture of the background of the usage of the washer but I seem to have much different opinions and experiences.

A. I don't use washers because of the aforementioned way to get perfect darts, some are perfect but a few are total crap. I prefer to have fewer darts be crappy, and take more time too make them. The ball bearings I use also help making perfect darts because centering a hole in foam is an easier task than centering a washer.

B. I have never had the problem of a weight punching through the felt. Did you guys put hotglue over the weight but before the felt pad?

C. I don't see how washers are easier to regulate. Yes there are fewer options, but it as just as easy to put rules on weight limits in your war outline threads.



#337847 Why do slug darts need to be made with washers?

Posted by Birch on 29 March 2014 - 05:58 PM in Darts and Barrels

I do this:

Posted Image

But that's just me. It adds a bit of weight, but probably less than that of a bearing.

Adding the bearing is probably more efficient than pasting a washer then adding the copper anyway.


Woh, that is exactly what I used to due to my darts so they weighed enough. It is an easy solution to the weight problem, but doesn't solve the exposed metal conundrum.



#350649 Why Aren't There Homemade Kits?

Posted by Birch on 10 January 2016 - 09:29 AM in Homemades

I started making homemades back around when I was 13. I was able to make a pistol SNAP and an AAbow solely from parts that I found at Lowe's. Did they look a fancy ESLT or PCSR? They didn't, but I still successfully built a homemade. Since then, there have countless writeups made specifically for newcomers that instruct you how to build a homemade. 

Exact same for me, except I built a SNAP carbine.

 

Trust me, to any noobs reading this, building a homemade is nowhere near as daunting as it may seen, as long as you follow a write-up.




#343861 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by Birch on 03 January 2015 - 11:51 AM in Modifications

Ok, thanks. I bought the foam and have already cut the roll into 155 blanks. But there is one problem, I can't find any 5/8" felt pads, only 3/4 and 1/2". Do you have any recommendations for a dart head for this foam? I don't really want to make glue/silicone domes because I've heard they hurt more and aren't as safe. That and no one that I know of makes dome molds that big.


I have made 5/8 mega stefans before, and I just used 1/2 felt tips. They worked pretty well, but using something 5/8 in diameter would have been better. I would recommend getting some fairly thick craft foam and a section of 21/32 or 5/8 brass, and using it as a die to punch out pieces of craft foam. Adhere the tips to washer, and adhere that to your foam, and you've got a mega slug dart. If you could find adhesive backed craft foam that would be even better.



#332235 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by Birch on 23 July 2013 - 06:12 AM in Modifications

A absurdly strong spring for the retaliator: http://www.mcmaster....springs/=nqtjy1
Not so absurd springs for the elite guns: http://www.mcmaster....springs/=nqtkiq , http://www.mcmaster....springs/=nqtl1d (the ends of these when cut to the appropriate length will need to be closed)



#330927 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by Birch on 16 June 2013 - 02:32 PM in Modifications

Useful shotgun absolver pieces: http://flexpvc.com/c...VC-Distributors



#328562 What is the max voltage on the Elite Rayven?

Posted by Birch on 05 April 2013 - 05:49 AM in Modifications

Just remove those devises so you can run them at a higher voltage. If you can't or don't want to do the electrical work, I would just not use a flywheel blaster.



#330459 What foam should I buy

Posted by Birch on 01 June 2013 - 05:35 PM in Darts and Barrels

hey guys
I was wondering what foam I should buy and were I can find it. I have a ton of beige foam and its a bit to thick for me. I don't want to buy crappy foam. I want to buy high quality foam that fits cpvc for springer's and sch80 for air guns pleas leave some suggestions in the comments


Beige foam is what I use and I use cpvc for barrels, but maybe mine is just a hair thinner, oh well. I would highly sugest if you want to use something of the same size as cpvc I would just buy some of Funky's polycarbonate barrels. But if you really want to use cpvc I would just stretch your foam.

I you really want a different foam get some MHA foam or some of ben's foam. These work great in cpvc and sch. 80. Of the two though, I would pick ben's just because it cheaper, and you don't have to deal with Kane.



#350134 Vulcan Issues

Posted by Birch on 22 December 2015 - 08:14 PM in General Nerf

To paraphrase Daniel beaver: I have identified the problem:

Vulcan




#362180 Venaticora: katana mag, pump action, monocoque receiver

Posted by Birch on 04 January 2018 - 07:34 PM in Homemades

I think that from what I have heard and seen regarding the Caliburn design, this offers a major improvement, provided you have access to katana mags. 

 

The main three complaints I have heard about the Caliburn:

1. The build feels insecure and kind of "twisty"

2. Because of the use of bolts for the frame, it can be very knit-picky to assemble correctly, as you have to tension each of the bolts and nuts correctly

3. There are a few parts (although I think many have been re-iterated and fixed) that are relatively weak, or not designed the best, like the piece above the mag-well

 

However, it seems to me that this design addresses each of those complaints wonderfully, and personally from what I have seen thus far, I would rather build this than a Caliburn. Also, if the creator is planning on distributing this design a la Slug, than as long as he has a mill those slots will be hardly a nuisance. Even for people who don't have a mill, I think that a dremel, a drill (press hopefully), and some patience are just fine for making slots. Honestly I would rather machine slots than have to tension a bunch of finicky bolts myself. I really, really like the bolt design, and just the whole design in general; great work and will definitely make one if I can get access to a 3d printer or can buy the 3d-printed parts, as well as if I can buy some katana mags.  

 

However I do have a few suggestions:

1. Shorten the draw: 7 inches of draw on a 1.375" id plunger tube is honestly kind-of overkill. Either put a 18"+ chicago barrel on this to actually take advantage of all this volume, or shorten the draw to 4.5-5.5". I have run into a ton of longshots with [[k26]] or k45 equivalent springs that get better performance than some +bows, so I really don't think the extra volume is worth the extra length and priming effort. 

2. Change the pump design: just like Blitz said, 3d printed grips are prone to breakage, and personally I would much prefer a 1.5" pvc tee over pretty much any design people have tried printing (1.5" pvc tee's are wicked ergonomic)

3. As far as I can tell, only the grip pieces are actually 3d-printed, but personally I would try to 3d print the whole receiver assemply except for the the sear, which should definitely be a machined part.

 

And just a p.s., if you somehow have access to a lathe, I think lathed bolts are really beneficial for blasters like these, and would be a great improvement!




#362187 Venaticora: katana mag, pump action, monocoque receiver

Posted by Birch on 05 January 2018 - 09:45 AM in Homemades

While I think your point about katana mags is totally valid, honestly I would probably only use a blaster like this with them. The reduction in deadspace is a huge advantage in my opinion, and buying katana mags isn't that much of an issue to be honest. 

 

Also, while you may have had a good time assembling the caliburn, you can't deny that the rod system is a little janky and kinda hard for amateurs to assemble, while a receiver with slots pre-milled would essentially be idiot-proof.  




#342421 using a bladder to expand a tank?

Posted by Birch on 15 October 2014 - 05:57 PM in Modifications

I think the bladder would actually work quite well. Don't the super overpowered iron man super soakers have a rubber tank? I think it would make more sense to use a hard tank though, as the pressure world probably be higher. Of course you could band the bladder to get higher pressures and a faster release.



#345528 the nerf Rivals blasters

Posted by Birch on 13 March 2015 - 05:48 PM in General Nerf

I just want to know that those little things (though denser) pack a punch, and you'll actually feel a hit from a good distance away.


Yeah, if it is solid foam and the foam is anything like the old ballistic ball foam, I think accuracy and range would suffer greatly. Hopefully the foam rounds are made of a very dense foam or are weighted in some other way. Regardless, I'll probably still be buying the Zeus whenever it comes out.



#336980 The BullShit

Posted by Birch on 10 February 2014 - 07:16 PM in Homemades

The issue with larger plunger heads shouldn't be friction - if it is, you're not lubricating correctly.

The large issue is the exponential growth in surface area on the plunger head. You're trying to compress a large volume of air with the same spring as your previous plunger, but you have more area for the air to push back. Thus, you need a much stronger spring (questionable, considering the force needed to prime the blaster might become too great), or a much more direct outlet for the air to escape from. High airflow, low pressure.


The larger the surface area, the more friction, so, not be be a butt, I was correct.



#336944 The BullShit

Posted by Birch on 09 February 2014 - 01:59 PM in Homemades

I know in blasters with larger plunger tubes, the friction on the plunger head can increase nearly exponentially as in the id gets larger. In the blaster do you experience a debilitating amount of friction?, or is it only enough so you have to change your barrel/barrel system?



#339604 Telescoping Plunger Tube Blaster (TPB)

Posted by Birch on 16 June 2014 - 03:49 PM in Homemades

What I have found with my expand a blast, which has the same problems as your homemade does with the power, is to not make the seal perfect. Doing this reduces friction, which I have found adds enough speed to the plunger rod to counteract the loss of volume and actually add extra power.



#341582 Tech Target Inertnals Replacement help

Posted by Birch on 27 August 2014 - 11:25 AM in Modifications

I would highly suggest not cutting off the back portion. It will allow more flex in the plunger rod, causing a greater chance for it to snap.



#339411 Tech Target Blaster Spring Equivelant

Posted by Birch on 07 June 2014 - 11:40 AM in General Nerf

I would do that but I like the eliminator because I got it free, besides, I got it going 40 ft flat, I use it for entertainment. I just wanted to put a little more power into it. So would a nite finder spring from OMW fit the plunger tube? Or would the Vulcan spring work better?


Just take a stock nite finder or vulcan spring and see if either fits. If one does, than get its respective replacement spring.



#339405 Tech Target Blaster Spring Equivelant

Posted by Birch on 07 June 2014 - 07:47 AM in General Nerf

Why bother?

The benefits from a new spring on a tiny system like that of the eliminator's, is not going to give much more of an improvement than like a few feet/fps.

Honestly if you want something small just get like a jolt because they are easier to modify.



#337758 Super cool gun that i dont know what to do with...

Posted by Birch on 27 March 2014 - 07:23 PM in Modifications

Make sure you save the stock pump for future projects, it looks like it would work well as a replacement pump.


Yeah, I agree with this, it looks great for 3k or something.

I also will give one word of advice, super soakers are banned almost everywhere, and even if you did modify it, it would be super impractical. If you really want to modify it, just single it and keep it for pest control. Or elephant hunting(I know it's illegal).



#351005 Stryfe is on sale!

Posted by Birch on 21 January 2016 - 02:05 PM in General Nerf

This belongs in the product/deal awareness thread http://nerfhaven.com...t-availability/

 

Chill out blues, you're not a moderator.




#346240 Stryfe Barrel Extension

Posted by Birch on 17 April 2015 - 05:58 AM in Modifications



I did these videos the week Containment Crew uploaded his.

All my brass was internally polished, as well as beveled inside the magwell for feeding.

He never came back with his promised formal testing, so I did it for him.

Although the goal was to measure accuracy and precision, like I tried to do with the shitty fence and cardboard, I also took chronograph readings. Long brass stryfe was ~80fps, short barrel ~95fps, No barrel 123.7fps. Any effect you see on accuracy and precision is due to decreased muzzle velocities taking the Elite dart back into an operable speed.

The simple fix is to use koosh darts, watching the video you can clearly see a much tighter grouping of the green koosh darts, even though most of them went high and right over the fence. I also had to get closer to the target by 20ft with the brass stryfe to even collect any kind of data at all, which skews the results.

Kewsh is love, Kewsh is life.


Thanks for the data.

As for the koosh I have bought some and I love them, but I found these darts to work just good if not even better. The foam is pretty fat, about as fat as the fatter beige hot rod xl foam. This is actually a great thing because it means the flywheels grip the dart much better. In addition, the foam is consistent, and so is the head to foam connection. These darts are also mad cheap. 20 bucks plus 5 for shipping?!?! From China?!?!



#346222 Stryfe Barrel Extension

Posted by Birch on 16 April 2015 - 08:20 PM in Modifications

Brass Stryfe is a terrible idea, it adds so much friction on the darts.


While I do agree with you that a brass barrel will add extra friction, I think that your setup imparted way to much unnecessary friction. I have yet to try this but I would imagine that a shorter barrel would add extra accuracy without as much range decrease.



#343841 Strongarm Malfunction

Posted by Birch on 02 January 2015 - 05:33 PM in General Nerf

Did you use regular steamlines and/or shitty elites? They would probably cause loss in performance.



#330971 Stretching Foam

Posted by Birch on 17 June 2013 - 06:43 PM in Darts and Barrels

I have read up on stretching foam and related topics, but I still have a few questions. Does stretching the foam make it inconsistant like in the middle area of the foam? And does stretching foam change in any way the longevity of the foam?
I also really like to make and use 3/4 inch darts for fun, so my question is, does stretching foam work the same with big foam, or does it have some weird effects on big foam?

I know these maybe be newbie questions, and I'm pretty sure someone will respond after only reading the above part, Why don't you just buy different foam? The answer is just that I don't want to pay for expensive foam on the forums, plus my parents are skeptical of the credibility of some of you(I don't). I also am just much more inclined of just modifying my current best materials foam because it is really great foam, it just degrades really easily when used it tight barrels. It is very firm and hard(gigity) right off the roll so if I could just make it thinner right off the roll it would be great foam.



#331036 Stretching Foam

Posted by Birch on 19 June 2013 - 06:04 AM in Darts and Barrels

That's what I would do. Stretching foam works, but it's usually far more work than just re-barreling your blasters.

The main problem with my foam is that it is to loose for springers in PETG, but also a little to tight in cpvc. I can really only use specific sizes of sch80, and getting those means I have to order sch80 from mcmaster(best fit) and that can get expensive doing that monthly, on top of all my other orders.

Thank you draconis thats what I had been thinking of doing, since foam already seemed to shrink when used in tighter barrels, but now that I know that you can do in effectively. I was also wondering if heat will make the process go faster for draconis' method.



#330994 Stretching Foam

Posted by Birch on 18 June 2013 - 06:07 AM in Darts and Barrels

It really depends on the technique you use to stretch the foam. Ryan and Kane have had a great deal of success with the stretching frame they built for their pink foam, but that works particularly well for foam that's already cut into even segments, like theirs is. I'd imagine it would be a great deal more time consuming to have to do that to a whole spool of foam. I've seen some people hand-stretch their foam by tugging on shorter sections of it as they move down a length of foam. I've tried that, and it seemed to work, though it can be tough to achieve consistency while maintaining a good pace.

As for the big foam, it should work similarly, though you may need to pull a bit harder to get it to change diameters effectively.

You know that you can buy foam from other online suppliers, right? I usually get mine from Mcmaster, and while it's not necessarily the best out there, it works fine for me, and conveniently comes from the same place I order most other supplies for projects. It also tends to be a bit smaller than most other foam, for whatever reason (snug, but not particularly tight in CPVC-sized barrels). Of course, I can totally understand not wanting to throw out a bunch of foam, just because it barely doesn't fit.

You might consider switching to looser barrels on everything, though. That's usually significantly easier than shrinking your foam.


Ya, I was thinking of a method similar to what Ryan mentioned it his slug making thread.

I used to use other barrels (mcmaster sch80, PETG, 9/16 brass) and they worked pretty well, but they were just expensive and all needed pvc couplers which were sometimes to big to use. I just like the cpvc because it is mad cheap and has its own couplers.

As for other foams, I really like foam that I can use a high-temp hot glue gun on just because it is much easier on the fingers and makes, in my opinion, better darts, and from What I hear mcmaster foam can't be used with a high temp hot glue guns.

I would really like people who actually stretch or have stretched their foam to respond(no offense roboman). And if anyone has different methods then what has been posted on Nerfhaven I would love to hear them.



#346718 [Stryfe] Cheap performence improvement

Posted by Birch on 13 May 2015 - 06:28 PM in Modifications

If I were you, I would boost the number of AA's to 8. This will lead to 12 volts, and a fair amount of current. From my experience, stryfe motors can handle a pretty decent amount of current, but totally fry if you get higher than 16 volts running through them.

Also, I would coat the flywheels in something. What I do is wrap them tightly in electrical tape in direction that the flywheels spin. After the wrap, I use a hair dryer on the highest setting to warm up the electrical tape. It is crucial that the tape is wrapped in a way that when the flywheels spin, the seam that the tape makes is not able to be peeled back.



#346723 [Stryfe] Cheap performence improvement

Posted by Birch on 14 May 2015 - 05:57 AM in Modifications

My stryfe shoots 50-70ft flat with 2 imr and full rewire. With that many AA you might as well jump to imr you will go through that many AA while playing.


Did you even see what he said? Imr's cost 14 euro's where he lives for just a pack of 2. Then you also have to add a special charger to that.

I recommended 8 AA's because they are cheap and accessible. In Addition, the current from 8 AA"s is greater than 2 Imr's, which will lead to greater performance and less damage to the motors.