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I originally picked up this gun from a Bass Pro Shop (in Vaughan, Ontario) for my nephew. It’s a ball gun and (stock) shoots only about 10 feet. However, the blaster has a realistic look and feel, plus I was optimistic of its potential for having a pretty large plunger (judging by the cylindrical shape of the front portion). So I bought one for myself.
Turns out the blaster does have a decent sized plunger and is very easy to barrel mod (the orange barrel for the balls easily removed by unscrewing two plainly visible screws) . Unfortunately, the pics I’ve attached are only the ‘after’ pics as I did a barrel mod (shoots micros) a few weeks ago. The barrel is actually one of those orange 'shotgun' shells that come with the Buzz Bee rifles (the double shot and rapid fire). Not as tight as CPVC (which was my other alternative) which means a little less range but better accuracy and reloading times. With stock micros (yeah – I use stock because: 1) I play indoors with my nephews, and 2) I make the WORST stefans ever), I get about 50 feet and very good accuracy (obviously depending on how straight the dart is) - a little less range than my Lanard Max Shot (with the same barrel) but I’d bet a spring stretch/replacement would do wonders. In the future, I may try to brass mod this baby. What I like about this blaster is its feel. Aiming it is pretty intuitive (i.e. unlike my Max Shot, which I had to “learn” to aim). Well, you can decide for yourself if this is a potentially good primary weapon. Some of you mod geniuses out there could probably turn this into a nerfer favourite.
Anyway, I hope this helps anyone who has been considering this blaster (I did a search and recall seeing another member mention, but not necessarily buy, the blaster). If this was at all helpful, please let me know, because I can also show you pics of the guts of other, less familiar guns (e.g. the Buzz Bee Rapid Fire Rifle). pics below.....
the blaster (post-mod). The big orange thing was for holding up to three balls
opening 'er up is easy. Just remember to remove the screws in the pump first (to reveal more screws)
immediately below the plunger tube is the thingy (white silicon/nylon rod) that allows the pump to cock the spring
the catch and trigger are pretty simple
here are the plunger and spring. Hopefully, ths scale will give you an idea of their size
I tend to fill up dead space (here, the stock) with packing foam when modding my blasters
HEY...I am 5 minutes away from the Bass Pro Shop ambushbug. In Vaughan Mills right? Well if you’re interested, I and a bunch of other Canadian nerfers have our own little clan, CFM. We would love for you to stop by and join us for one of our wars...what do you think?
cool. I'm new to this, but it sounds like fun. I'll PM you.
it uses ammo pre-loaded into these orange shells (same as Buzz Bee Double Shot). Stock clips hold six. But you can also load an extra round in "the pipe" (chamber) before inserting the clip.
here is the stock version (well, I sawed the barrel off this one). It went for 12 bucks CAD$ at Wal-Mart
for a basic view of the internals, you don't need to unscrew the barrel or bolt screws (on the yellow parts - on the current version of the blaster)
note that the plunger isn't very big. Nor is the airhose that runs from plunger tube to the chamber. The spring currently mounted (the silver one) is actually one I put in to try and increase the velocity. The original (the black one) is below the spring/plunger. Although the new spring is stronger, it hasn't made much of a difference in range. It only made the thing way louder. More importantly, it does not compress to the same extent as the original and thus, prevents the bolt from sliding back far enough to let the clip feed shells properly into the breech/chamber.
there are a few things going on in here. The blue lever cocks the spring while sliding the bolt back (to let the shell/cartridge move up into the breech).
When the lever is returned to the closed position, the bolt pushes the shell into the chamber and seals it (the black o rings). Also notice that between the O rings, there is a hole in the bolt. That hole allows airflow into the chamber when the trigger is pulled/the spring/plunger is released.
the orange thing on the right is part of the trigger. The orange thing on the left is part of the mechanism for ejecting spent shells (triggered when the white rod holding the spring is cocked back)
this is my blaster (without significant modification - only spraypaint). There are several velcro tabs on the blaster for attachments I've devised to catch spent shells. The velcro on the clips lets me stick two of them together (one upside down) for faster clip-changes.
This one only gets about 35-40 feet with stock micros but I'm trying to devise something (i.e. integrating a Lanard MaxShot plunger/spring and correspondingly larger gauge airhose) to increase its range. I wonder if even a nite-finder spring would do some good.
Also beware, if you don't use a smooth (though not necessarily slow) motion when cranking the lever, the ammo may jam. But after some practice, this blaster is pretty good for short/mid ranges (indoors).
I suppose length of a war is also an issue because unless you buy enough blasters (for extra clips), reloading shells and magazines is not as easy as groping for a dart and jamming it in a muzzle-loading blaster. I've tried to remedy this by buying a bunch of shell/dart refill packs and keeping them in an ammo bandolier (after Boltsniper). When the magazines are spent, shells can be directly loaded into the breech (without removing the magazine).
I figure it makes a decent (albeit, large) secondary. Not as compact as a Mav or Firefly but easier to reload (until you run out of clips). Again, you can decide for yourself.
I think I'm also gonna try to couple it with a modded maxshot. The rifle-style handle combined with the pistol-grip of the max shot should work well together. Not to mention, it gives the MS a stock.
Anyway, if I acquire any more "uncommon" blasters, I'll try to post more pics. Hopefully, others will do the same.
the RFRs are pretty common at WalMarts in my area (Toronto) and have been out for a while (I think I got mine in early August).
Wait, did I miss something? How did you get that gun? I haven't seen anything about the rff (rapid fire rifle) being out posted.
Buzz Bee RFR (2x)
Lanard Max Shot (modded with removable barrels - a single shot and a turret made from an Ertl rapid fire blowgun)
Wookiee Bowcaster (modded)
Lanard Speed Loader
Ertl FS 1010 Rifle
plus, I managed to kill a Buzz Bee Air Bazooka and a Tek 6
I say go for it, though from the sound of it you're already planning a war. Shit, just think of the possibilities: in addition to snow fortresses, you might be able to incorporate vehicles (e.g. toboggans, GT snow racers, tire tubes) into the war - depending on the terrain. Like the ultimate snowball fight. Hmmmm......you got me thinking this could be something REALLY good.
I've seen a few max shots (the newer blue/silver shell - not the red/blue) still hanging around some of the Wal Marts in my area (S. Ontario)- and I hope to pick them up for myself. Sorry- I'm not trying to gloat - I just want to point out that some stragglers are still out there and might still pop up by chance (e.g. if things get stuck in a corner of the storage warehouse or get returned - God bless Wal Mart for accepting returns under almost any conditions). For example, at another Wal-Mart, I picked up a Lanard Speed Loader (okay, maybe nothing to get too excited about but I never saw it before) and at a third walmart, (actually just last week), I found a pair of AT2Ks on the clearance aisle (7$ CAD each). The boxes were old and ratty (and one was missing all the stock darts) and the copyright on the back was 2002! So yeah, you kinda have to be lucky but if you search the WalMarts in your area (every now and then), there's still a chance that you'll find something good. Worst case, there's also the chance of re-release....
Speaking about lanard guns where can I get a max shot? Is there any place I can get one I want to get one or two before they are outa stock. I hope they still sell them. Don't tell me they don't sell them anymore... The triple shot and single shot are shit but its big brother the max shot is a beast. I need one.
sorry, I don't know anything about the Triple Mech but as for the RFR, I recently posted some pics of the internals (sorry, no mod) in the modifications forum. And as pointed out by Jakethesnake, there's some more talk about this blaster on NHQ. Er- I'm assuming you were asking for info on the RFR - it wasn't totally clear whether you just wanted to know where to buy them.
Does anyone know anything about the Triple Mech Blaster or the Rapid Fire Rifle by Buzz Bee? I found the Triple Mech Blaster, but no real helpful info (select ammo type or all at once); Can't find the Rapid Fire Rifle at all.
this is what the original looked like:
it has a 5 shot manual turret for megas.
I chopped down the petg chambers to accommodate some buzz bee shells.
I removed the pegs and drilled larger holes in the back of each of the orange shells.
Some electrical tape and hotglue connected the existing PETG, shells and circular turret disc.
I had cut down the front portion of the turret frame a bit because the new chambers (for micros) are shorter than the original (for megas). The central axle (around which the turret rotates) was cut down a bit too - the tip is the screw-in point for the back half.
Here's the back half of the turret frame. Notice I added a custom cut piece of foam sheet (the black stuff) in an attempt to make a tighter seal. I also added some lubricant directly on the foam sheet.
Assembled, it looks like this.
I mounted it as a removable rig (using cpvc coupler) on my max shot.
I have to admit its range isn't as good as single barreled (with buzz bee shell barrel) - only about 35 feet (stock micros). Furthermore, even though the turret has built in notches to align the chamber with the barrel/plunger, proper alignment (on the modded version) isn't as obvious (doesn't click) as in let's say an AT2k so the RoF doesn't really increase substantially from muzzle-loading the single barrel. So why didn't I just use the turret At2k or my Lanard Speed Loader? I don't really know but I'd like to think this was a semi-successful venture. In any case, the turret was originally built for megas and I think their large gauge means it would be pretty easy to nest your own chamber materials inside (e.g. brass/pvc etc.) to allow it to shoot micros without even doing any cutting to the turret - just use e-tape.
Of course a laser pointer isn't all that useful unless you play in the dark but you're right, it is cool. Not to mention, I have used it for intimidation purposes. For example, some of my friends had to think twice before sticking their head/arm out of a hiding place when my laser said "I see you".
the original RFR guts looked like this (note: I sawed off the barrel previously)
I hooked up the new airtank where the old spring and plunger used to be (ignore the trigger/valve mechanism on the left of the red goo-meter - I ended up changing that; see the next pic)
To fit the airtank in. I had to do some considerable hacking/sanding of the existing plunger/spring frame. I seriously need to invest in a Dremel kit.
On the other half of the rifle chassis, I drilled a hole to allow the "liquitron" goo meter protrude. Yeah I kept the goo, partly cause I was too lazy to reroute the airlines and partly for effect. I also drilled a hole for the airhose (between aritank and pump).
I also cut down the white plastic arm (that connected the lever to the spring) so as not to interfere with the airtank. To allow the shell-ejecting mechanism to work, I glued a small piece of plastic to extend the orange ejection trigger - this allows the sawed down lever arm to trip the ejection trigger. Thus, the lever/clip feeding system works as usual. (sorry - no pic)
After experimenting on a few different valve-trigger mechanisms, I settled on a low tech but reliable solution - steel wire (for hanging picture frames). I secure this to the end of the valve pin. Notice there's also an orange piece (scrap from amodded NF) glued to the airtank to support it against the old spring frame.
I drilled a hole in the existing RFR finger trigger to secure the other end of the wire
After ALOT of trial and error and troubleshooting, I put it back together. Assembled it looks like this.
I still haven't mounted the pump. I'll probably keep it (horizontally) on the right side of the blaster so I can cock the lever and pump with the same hand. I'll probably also change the pump handle.
Cosmetically the fit wasn't perfect as even after cutting out some space for the protruding airline, the airtank causes a bit of a bulge in the chassis and from above you can see a gap (even when the screws are tightened) - oh well.
Now for ranges:
After about 3 1/2 full pumps, it gets about 45-50 feet (stock darts). That's only about 10 feet more than the stock(springer) version with the same dart/shell. I figure, I can get even better range with an extra pump or two (I plugged the over-pressure release valve) but I'm a still little of a wuss when it comes to pumping the gun. After spending 2 days modding this thing, I didn't want to immediately bust the airtank.
In any case, the integration was moderately successful, it gets slightly better range than the stock RFR and is considerably quieter. It hasn't lost its clip-loading capability though its RoF is obviously a little lower because of the pumping. When I get around to it, I'll work on the pump handle and give it a new paintjob.
Again, I'm a nerf noob and this is my first attempt at an integration but I hope it gives you guys some ideas (maybe of what not to do ) for your own mods.
Sounds like the turret is misaligned causing the airflow to be uneven (e.g stronger on the left/weaker on the right side of any given turret barrel). That's just a guess, though.
Clearly, you can count but perhaps you should work on spelling (as per the COC).
Oh and maybe I can count or somthing, but my real quick estemate says 3 sentences, but what the hell do I know.
Better yet, try not to clog up a thread by adding purely pointless sarcasm. Your earlier post (describing the cocking action etc) was useful. The following one wasn't.
I'm in the TO area as well. Though I too get the impression we have less selection, I think there's still a wide range of stuff you can get around here. More than enough to keep me busy trying to mod stuff.
OK I am Tired of people on this site that live in America I ENVY you guys so much all your stores are up to date with the finest firearms(nerf guns). Me I live in Toronto and I am tired of walking into a common toystore
(toys toys toys, Toys R us) And they don't have Jacksquat.
Is there anybody in Toronto or north york area that knows a good nerf retailer?
I have even recently seen some of the more elusive blasters at a few of my local TRUs. At one of the better stocked ones, I saw the Firefly, the Dart Tag and the AT3k (twin pack). Most of the TRUs in the TO area seem to have RF20, Mav, N-Strike Unity and NFs consistently in stock. Some also have the Lanard stuff (e.g. Blast Bazooka). I have yet to spot a BBB though.
How about Wal Marts? Though almost all seem to be devoid of NERF brand blasters except for the Tech Target, they typically have the whole line of Buzz Bee blasters and some of the Lanards (Max Shot and BB - no First shot or Triple Shot). Just by luck, I managed to find a couple of old AT2ks and a Lanard Speed Loader a few months ago.
Sears and Zellers often also carry the NF and the Mav.
And my take on living in Canada vs. the US of A:
- true, we do generally have a lower crime rate in Canada but also a way smaller population; and gun crime has been popping up an awful lot in Toronto in the past few years with no signs of slowing
- I don't know whether firearms in the US or Canada are the cause of crime or are merely the symptom - but I'm glad that most Canadians don't own them
- the safest part about living in this great country of ours is not the absence of guns, but rather the existence of FREE healthcare
if Canada sucks then the US sucks more (ok, I'm being a bit juvenile).You talk back to an admin like that and it'll turn into 0.0, you understand me?
Lot's of girls tell me I'm that.
Hahahahaha, that's cute.
to below: 10 posts in a day is enough? I'll try to edit, but for me that's less than 1 post an hour, well maybe 3 because I'm only on the net usually an hour, but today I went on a 4 hour rampage, I guess it got out of control. I have an average of 1.1 posts a day
Relevant to the conversation, Canada sucks. You guys don't even know how to make a cheese burger.
Guns kick ass. I own three guns. I've never killed anyone. Even if I did I wouldn't use a gun. To begin with there is too much evidence. They'll just match up the bullet, case solved. Besides, guns aren't cheap. Neither is ammo. There are far more cost efficient ways to commit murder. Besides, I'd look funny shooting a guy with a 22.
Florida sucks. Half of it is back assed southern, half of it is New Isreal and all of it is under attack by hurricanes.
Past that, I just want you Canadians to understand that A. You're not really a country, B. You only exist because we like you and you have nothing and C. you don't know what bacon is.
God help you if you ever strike oil.
But I mean George W? And I don't know what is more disturbing, the fact that the guy who lost the election became president OR the fact that after all he's done he gets re-elected (?)
assuming you meant me.....
Who ever reported to this forum from Toronto tell me which TRU did u go to were is it?
the TRU in question was the one at Bathurst and Steeles. I also just got back from the TRU in Newmarket (Upper Canada Mall) and they had all of the ones I mentioned PLUS the 3B. So, if Illadar is correct (regarding the pattern of distribution form West to East), I guess the BIg Bad Bow has officially arrived in our neck of the woods.
I was looking for a temporary barrel to range test my new 3B and I have a handful of these things around (I store BBs in them). The ones I have are tapered slightly towards the closed end. I simply hacked/sanded off the rounded closed end and a bit off the open end. I jammed the tube into the existing 3B barrel (cut down and air restrictors removed) until the tube got stuck - and voila.
The fit is tighter near the base (and depending on how much you cut off the closed end) but does a reasonable job for both stock darts and my stefans. I imagine a slightly tigher fit all the way through could add a bit more range (i.e. allow the compressed air to build up a split second longer) but he slightly wider front end means its a little easier to load darts.
If you happen to have these lying around, they might be an alternative to the PETG that you usually have to buy from the pet store (at least, that's where I got mine).
I hear ya. I'm 30 years old and can frequently be found in the toy aisles of any department store or scouring the TRUs in my area. I'm always amused and a little embarrassed whenever I'm at the check out counter and they ask me if I need a gift receipt...
...and they most certainly didn't give me anything free, other than some odd looks. I guess that's the price to pay when you buy toy guns at my age, huh?
I think JTS has a point in that it seems to be limited in its application (I think the longest tubes I've seen are 4"). And the tapered shape may make it difficult to use as a barrel stub (for nesting a longer, wider diameter barrel over it) without good support from surrounding couplers. But 3 - 4" is enough for for some of my muzzle loading blasters (e.g my NF) and for shooting stock darts (where longer barrels are not really an option).
Those are generally too short for any kind of "effective" blaster.
I realize that a design where the plunger and bolt are combined necessitates moving the breech/chamber and clip way forward (hence, the two-handle design). However, I've been toying with the idea of stacking the plunger tube and barrel one on top of the other. To minimize the length of the blaster while also minimizing 'dead' space between the plunger and chamber/breech, the plunger would have to be cocked by a forward motion.
Below, I've sketched out a VERY crude scheme. I envision a slide (in BLACK) being pushed forward (simultaneously cocking the spring) and moving the barrel (also in BLACK) forward and allowing a clip(BLUE)-fed dart (ORANGE) into the chamber. A stretch spring (not dEffeminateted) would pull the barrel and slide back to close the seal (by O-rings in GRAY) over the dart. I haven't figured out a very good trigger system yet. I like the way the NF catch mechanism works but don't know where I could put the catch. Obviously, the catch, trigger and plunger tube (RED) would require considerable structural support from the rest of the pistol chassis (PINK). By the way, the C-shaped piece (THIN BLACK line) connects the plunger tube and chamber. Such a piece, I plan to rip from an existing air-delivery system from a Buzz Bee RFR (but PVC coupler or even some nylon tubing could do the trick). Springs are shown in GREEN.
Not sure I will even have the time, materials, tools or SKILL to try to pull something like this off but I was thinking of using an NF plunger tube. Size of ammo would have to be pretty small (e.g. 1.5 inch micro stefans or shorter) to be able to even comfortably use the grip.
Clearly, this is just an idea but I wanted to know what you guys think (on theoretical grounds)
On a related note, and more along the lines of Ronster's original design, I was thinking about trying to mod one of my Buzz Bee RFRs (I bought a bunch for $3.50 each) because in a way, it seems 'pre-adapted' to a plunger/bolt combo and already uses a clip (+ shell system).
What I had in mind was replacing the existing bolt with a plunger tube and rigging up a new trigger/catch mechanism. Of course, the stock would be removed
and fitted with a pistol grip. The cocking lever would not be necessary as the plunger tube/bolt would be pulled back manually or with some type of slide on top. The clip and shell-ejection mechanism would still work (for the most part) as is. This would make it comparable in size (slightly longer and deeper) than a MAV or a maybe a PC (? I have yet to actually see one). I guess still a little bulky but the more direct delivery of air should mean improved range (again, I'd try to use an NF plunger in place of the bolt but this would require some dremelling to widen the bolt shaft - and an extension to the plunger shaft).
Again, only speculation at this point, but more in the ballpark of what I think I can actually build/mod.
rock on! I'm Filipino too. Mabuhay! I live in Canada though. what kind of blasters are available to you there?I live in the philippines. Seriously, you shouldn't be complaining.
OK I am Tired of people on this site that live in America I ENVY you guys so much all your stores are up to date with the finest firearms(nerf guns). Me I live in Toronto and I am tired of walking into a common toystore
(toys toys toys, Toys R us) And they don't have Jacksquat.
Is there anybody in Toronto or north york area that knows a good nerf retailer?
The thing sucked out of the box; probably < 15 feet. I first tried to do a CPVC barrel mod but even though the CPVC added about 10 feet to the range, the tiny plunger and length of hose from plunger to muzzle were clearly killing it. Since I had an AT2k hanging around (and though I know many seem to love the 2k, I personally am not a big fan), I figured that a transplant could turn the very cool-looking wookiee blaster into a usable one. The existing design also made me think that this might be a particularly good one to "breech".
here's what I started with (this pic is post-CPVC). The cosmetic "bow" is not in the pic.
Check out the internals. The brown pipe hides the airtubing. No wonder the thing has crappy range.
Just to give you an idea of the plunger size (or lack thereof)....
The first thing I did was pull the airtank from the AT2k. I got rid of the orange goo-meter and used some plumber's goop to connect the pump hose to the tank. I cut a small stub (~ 2") of 17/32 brass and used some e-tape and goop to secure it to the tank nozzle (I shaved about 3/4" off the nozzle). The forward facing end of the stub was filed down to facilitate smooth sliding of the breech/barrel (discussed further down)
Next, I cut out some space in the bowcaster's casing to make space for the airtank.
Same goes for the pump. I made space in the stock. Both were secured to the casing with goop.
to be continued... (maximums on images...)
Finding a way to keep the existing trigger was a bit of an issue - I'm not crazy about using a key-ring for a trigger. Plus given the location of the tank, a key-ring would be difficult to pull with the "trigger hand". I tried a few things (which resulted in a few unsightly holes in the casing) but eventually settled upon a "wheel" as a point of leverage for my trigger system. This is actually just 2 old rollerblade bearings sandwiching a rubber o-ring and held together by duct-tape and hotglue - I hope it holds. The wheel fits over an existing screw mount in the casing (which I trimmed and wrapped with a tiny bit of e-tape). I ran a piece of (picture frame-hanging) wire from the trigger to the pressure-release pin on the the tank.
I used one (ball-shaped) tip of the "bow" to make a handle for the bolt. I secured this to 2 adjustable ring/hose clamps with some spare screws. These already had holes to accommodate the screws. I put a small piece of craft foam between the clamps and the barrel to secure them to the barrel without warping the barrel from overtightening (because the screw heads are in contact with the outer diameter of the barrel).
I kept the ammo-holders on the side of the gun (had to cut out some plastic to allow it to be screwed back in its original postition. I also kept the scope (but moved it to the outside of the casing and secured it with velcro - so its removable). Yeah, like all scopes, not very useful but it looks cool (and was part of the original look).
Finished! Just had to lube up the barrel assembly.
How it works (in case you haven't already inferred...): using the bolt, the long barrel is drawn forward to open the breech. Dart goes in. Pull back the bolt to seal the barrel. A few pumps and ...fire. In the future, I may also try to add a SSPB in the casing below the barrel.
-pump handle - In retrospect, the pump handle being the stock/grip makes for a less than comfortable grip - and the grip was tiny to begin with. I considered installing it underneath the barrel (like the original 2k) but given the shape of the casing and the length of the pump hose, I stuck with the stock. Still alright for two-handed use).
- trigger - the trigger is a little hard to pull (depending on how pressurized the tank is) but I haven't thought of a better, smoother way. Yet. Given that, I might add some rubber tubing to the front edge of the trigger to make it a bit more comfortabel when pulling the trigger.
- range - I'm a little disappointed because I heard so many good things about singled at2ks. This one only gets about 50 feet (stefans). The airseals all seem fine. The barrel might be a little long (about 10 'effective' inches). I know my stefans suck - sometimes they don't leave the barrel, partly because the FBR is crooked and partly because they are not a great fit. I've tried using stefans made from broken stock darts and they seem to do much better. I'll have to tinker a bit more.
Anyway, still not my favourite in my arsenal but I'm happy that the gun is alive and I managed to overcome some technical difficulties. Only my second integration and my first breech so it was a learning experience. Any comments/advice is appreciated.
I also saw off the barrel in the RFR. I'm not sure if you can completely replace the barrel as (if I recall correctly), the barrel and the chamber/ejection spring are all one piece (well, two halves). I imagine you could just jam some material down the existing barrel (depending on the diameter). Though I'm not convinced that a new barrel would make it any better as range is only mediocre and the accuracy depends alot on the dart/shell. Its worth trying though, I believe the halves of that barrel unscrew - so you could easily experiment.
That was the first thing i did, I removed the orange tip first but do you think the barrel can be replaced? with pvc I mean recently I found a whole Batch of industrial size PVC tubing i found it and now i will never run out but im still trying to figure out how to put in a new barrel.
Thanks for the comments. I may take peoples' advice and relocate the pump. And I didn't plug the over-pressure valve in this one but I frequently swap it with an extra pump handle that is. That way, when I loan it to someone who might forget about over-pumping, I let them use the "safe" handle.
That very nice, it almost looks like the gun came that way. Did you remember to plug the overpressure release valve on the at2k?
Does the Plasti-Dip pour well? I'm wondering whether the material could be applied to fbr with a half-inch (or so) drilled out of the centre. Dripping it in a hole (with disposaable pipettes?) in fbr might mean that the tip wouldn't be of larger diameter than the rest of the dart and, thus, the dart could be used in barrel-modded blasters. And presumably, it could still be used in combination with weights to get heavier stefans but with a slightly friendlier punch (compared to hotglue).
I don't think age has anything to do with it. I'm a 30 year old, married, PhD student with a social life who enjoys (and just discovered) nerf. And I'm not sure but I don't really recall many Nerf guns being around when I was 15. Maybe the bow n arrow.....
I've also experimented with making darts from broken stock darts - probably most people have. I've got a few made using the hotglue/thumbtack method (adopted from somebody else's dart tips - was it Langley?). Although I wouldn't claim that these abruptly change direction as you suggest, I have noticed that they do carry alot farther than the original stock dart - but the accuracy is shit. I'm no physicist but my guess is that the modified darts are lighter (without the head), which contributes to slightly more distance (in lower-powered guns anyway)but the lack of weight also makes it more erratic in flight (more affected by air resistance/perturbations or imperfections in the dart). My NF has a bit of a recoil which tends to send shots a little high - I think this is effect becomes more apparent with these lighter darts.
Wow I just made a sorta stefan it is a stock dart with no head, hot glue, and a small metal tack in it. I put that in my nite finder (with about 15 small rubber bands) and actually pushed it in far (how does one push it in mor easily without using a ramrod?) It shot clear across my basement and actually started rising before it hit the oposite wall. I dont know why the darts it fires veer up after about 20 feet but they do. any advice?
But this is only conjecture.
In terms of advice, I'd say put a bit more weight on the tip and your darts will follow a straighter path (i.e. the momentum of the weighted tip will tend to overcome the other preturbing forces acting on the dart).
and, oh yeah - I believe you meant "Rapid Fire Rifle" not the "Fast Action Rifle"? (a la Boltsniper).
EDIT: I just tried adding the 9/16 brass barrel extension - no luck. The darts barely leave the barrel (I tried 12" and 8"). I should have known better anyway, the air delivery system (small plunger + airhose) is too wimpy to utilize the brass barrel extension.
I think there might be some confusion here. Many have described shotgun 'rounds' as requested in Dark's original message. But I believe Talio was responding to Dark's message header asking about "shotgun SHELLS". I guess Ompa's description of the spare barrels method is the closest thing but I have no expertise in this area.I thought it was just common knowledge in the community. I used to use them in short-range urban wars with any of my blasters using 1/2" adapters. It pretty much halves the range, but for a five-shot spread that ricochets to fill an alleyway, it's worth it.
Stefan Shotgun shells are merely theoretical, no one has ever done it and if they have, it didn't work well enough or was too complicated to be accepted by the community.
Toss in more weight to each Stefan bit for more range... Keep in mind you won't find most of your shotgun darts afterwards, so I'd recommend not dedicating weights to their manufacture.
Couldn't the orange Buzz Bee shotgun-esque shells be modded to fire "shot"? Though both the Double Shot and RFR have pretty poor air volume, so its effectiveness may be limited.
He (?) was nice enough to give a vague description when I PMed him but there was never a write-up.
Anyway, thanks for the write-up, I'm gonna try the brass. Something's also gotta be done about the pump/cocking handle. I find it terribly uncomfortable.
By fluke, I stumbled upon two AT2Ks at Wal Mart in Toronto (in a clearance aisle - returns?)- sorry, both tanks are integrated into active guns. But if I recall correctly, the airtank in the BLUE SM3k is the same/similar as my AT2Ks. Again, I'm not sure whether you already have/can find an SM3k (I got mine at a thrift shop). Or even if you'd be willing to sacrifice a 3k.
Problem being I live in Canada. No AT2K's here.
It looks like the position of the pump handle is quite far forward - does that make it difficult to pump? And what are the ranges?
At around first-year university I started studying Japanese sword arts/ways (Kendo and Iaido) and kept up for about 4 years (Kendo - only 3 years Iai). I pawned most of the stuff I had for a Iai-to (a practice sword for Iai). These are typically alloy blades - can't be sharpened and a little flexible - but the look and feel are (so I'm told) very authentic. Because Iaido practice (the "way of drawing the sword") entails alot of use (swinging, not cutting), replicas pretty much break after a couple of weeks and their uneven balance makes for really sore wrists.
Anyway, I haven't kept up but I still keep the Iaito on display. The fittings are plain black and its got a pretty nice tsuba (the circular handguard) molded in a design that looks like a crane with spread wings. I also have a spare tsuba that is pretty plain but it was used by my (former) Sensei so I keep it around for sentimental reasons. I always told myself that "when" I got to a reasonable skill level I would use it - yeah right!
I also keep a folding (lockback) knife for my camping/hiking stuff. Its made by Cold Steel. It cost me an arm and a leg but its definitely the strongest/most reliable blade I've owned.
I have an old balisong (that's the filipino name for a butterfly knife). The handle is ox horn/brass but is coming apart. The blade is very strong but quite rusty. These are actually illegal in Canada but I only keep it at home.
Also I have two machetes. One I got when I was doing research in Trinidad (a Martindale brand). Everybody there (including old ladies) uses them as all-purpose gardening/farming tools. That one still comes with me to camping trips (its a very functional camp hatchet and campfire prod). Also found my dad's old "bolo" machete from the Philippines. The thing is so rusty that it looks like it was salvaged from the Titanic. Again, not used but kept for sentimental reasons.
That's it - Sorry, I don't have pictures handy.
And my two cents on the whole ninja stuff. Though (overly) glamourized by hollywood, there's not very much account of any ninjas and any particular prowess with the sword. They were mostly spies (notably for Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the wars preceding the last Shogunate) who probably had to do some fighting but probably with a whole mish-mash of different weapons (i.e. whatever was available). So I don't think there is very much evidence of what a real "ninja sword" should look like.
Here are a few to get you started:
Lanard also makes a bow (the Blast Bow):
Since you're a LOTR fan, I imagine you're also aware of the Uruk-Hai crossbow? It would be cool if you could do some cosmetic work on the BnA to make it look like Legolas'
EDIT: hey, I just realized that there is a pic and review of the bow n arrow on nerfworld (under "Reviews")
I'm wondering if that can apply to forums too. Sure, seeing countless repeats of pointless posts is annoying but (for a non-mod) member, it takes less time to read a stupid post than to reply to it. I'm sure most have started to figure out certain members who are less "productive" than others. I have. And, accordingly, I stop reading posts from these people. I guess I'm in agreement with Duxbarian; if we don't bother with stupid posts, then that's punishment enough. And the remedy is not in the hands of moderators but everyday members.