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#332710 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 05 August 2013 - 02:38 AM in Modifications

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I can't play with this until tuesday... Just tidied it up for a picture and then applied more epoxy after the first coat, which was 6 hours ago.
need to purchase brass for the brass breech and I think I'll be good for this integration.



#332514 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 30 July 2013 - 11:54 PM in Modifications

Currently a WIP, you can definitely expect a writeup for this guy. Hopefully to get some hot glue tomorrow so I can finish. That and a dremel loading door is seriously all I need to do now.

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If you can't guess what it is from the photo...
Range Master raider replacement.

If you're seriously interested please PM me any questions you have.



#332389 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 28 July 2013 - 12:48 AM in Modifications



Shoved a 9 volt into my Stryfe.

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I know Duke told me to wire it straight but my mom figured out a cool way to integrate the snap connector, mad props to her because the soldering iron at home was defunct so she took it into her workplace to do it for me.



#333149 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 17 August 2013 - 03:28 AM in Modifications

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Hopefully the last incarnation of the range master



#333059 Last Armageddon (Armageddon XV)

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 15 August 2013 - 12:45 AM in Nerf Wars

Are noobs allowed or am I going to be shit on both figuratively and literally.

Put me down as a maybe, depending on location and ruleset.
I'm assuming it's going to be the same as others past.

I doubt I'll have anything productive to do during June 2014, but knowing my luck one of my parents or both of them will decide they want to drive to a tourist spot in LA instead of bringing me to a public park where grown adults and man children shoot each other with plastic foam projectile launchers meant for kids under 13 in the same area.


Pft stupid me I'll be able to drive (legally) by then...
Parents probably still won't let me go.
But it's a definite maybe.



#333094 Last Armageddon (Armageddon XV)

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 15 August 2013 - 11:15 PM in Nerf Wars

Langley, I would give you a definite answer if I was given a definite location.
Until then I can't confirm my attendance.

Sorry.



#335743 Stryfe Modification - Something slightly different...

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 01 December 2013 - 09:59 PM in Modifications

Sorry for the necro, but I would like to know if 3 AA nimh batteries would provide enough current to run the motors. I'm planning on putting these in my rapidstrike.



#333443 Air Max 6 Mod Guide

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 25 August 2013 - 12:27 PM in Modifications

Just wondering, how come you sawed off the front portion of the pump?


I tried to replace the pump



#333540 Air Max 6 Mod Guide

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 28 August 2013 - 05:58 PM in Modifications

I don't believe this is Necro posting, but if it is, I'm sorry. Anyways, I plugged the OPRV on mine and it's working just fine. I'm putting eight pumps into it every time I fire and there's no sign of breakage yet, and I would say I've fired it 50-60 times already.


Interesting. The valve on the pump, correct? I didn't inspect the blaster for a second one.



#333311 Air Max 6 Mod Guide

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 21 August 2013 - 12:31 AM in Modifications

*introduction*

So I went to target and they had loads of new nerf/buzzbee blasters... I was contemplating the sledgefire but the damn fucker is $30.00. Then I saw the Max 6, the new EXTREMEEEEE line from buzzbee. I thought it would have great potential.

/introduction

This is kinda what it looks like, I already tried to do a pump replacement but here's the general gist of what it is

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You can make it rearloading, it has enough space.

It's stupid simple to mod. Unscrew everything, and take the turret out.
The restrictor plates are glued on, so plop it in some boiling water and pop the caps off.
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rebarrel with PETG.

DO NOT PLUG THE PUMP.
You will break the little plastic piece attaching the pump to the external part.

Anyways put back together and you're done.



#333636 Air Max 6 Mod Guide

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 02 September 2013 - 02:15 AM in Modifications

For the PETG, was it the thick wall or medium wall?


It wasn't real PETG, it was the polyester tubing from McMaster.



#333681 Air Max 6 Mod Guide

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 02 September 2013 - 10:31 PM in Modifications

Kmart is the only place I believe that is currently selling the 10's.

The reason I'm doing a writeup is because new members will have no clue how to begin something like this.

Also, how long did if take to boil off the black plates? If left mine in boiling water for two minutes and they refuse to budge.


I haven't timed mine, but it was in there for awhile. They don't *pop* off, you kind of have to push it out with something.



#333328 Air Max 6 Mod Guide

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 21 August 2013 - 12:11 PM in Modifications

Without the air-restricter plugged, how much of an improvement is this seemingly simple mod? Are we getting comparable ranges to the elite line? Better? From what I've searched it seems to be a fairly powerful air blaster.


The air max gets elite ranges with stock darts, but is abyssmal when using elite darts. I just modified it to use slugs. Also, the tank just blew off. Buzz bee sucks with their quality control.
I'm out of posts, so hopefully you see this azrael.


There's a little piece that connects the internal pump to the external slide. If you plug the pump, you run the risk of breaking the connecting piece and you will not be able to pump it externally.



#333341 Air Max 6 Mod Guide

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 21 August 2013 - 04:21 PM in Modifications

It is possible to rear load the blaster. There isn't a problem with the rotation with a rebarrel, in my experience at least. I can't exactly check the ranges anymore because I plugged the pump and snapped it in half before I could get 6 shots off. It fired off fairly far, I'm guessing about 60 with slugs flat.



#333714 Air Max 6 Mod Guide

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 03 September 2013 - 10:42 PM in Modifications

My turret warped and melted before the adhesive had a chance to weaken. I ended up taking a hammer to the plates, which wasn't very smart. In hindsight, it would be MUCH easier to just remove the AR's from the front, since we are already removing the barrels in the first place.

So rather than boil the turret, just pluck out the AR's after sawing off the barrel assembly. Saves time and the black plates don't even have to be touched.


I can back up Duke's range claim however. Tank expanded, 8 pumps, this thing gets 100+ flat no problem with an 8" CPVC single barrel. My pump shaft nearly broke where it connects to the handle, so it is necessary to reinforce it as Duke pointed out.


Ouch, you must have had one that was really stuck on.

Also, I addressed the broken pump shaft.



#332967 You say Panther?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 13 August 2013 - 05:23 PM in General Nerf

Speaking of The Panther is now called the Air Warrior Extreme Mag 1, It's in stock here in Princeton, NJ
This is it:
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Looks like the took the blue off the older green BB ones and put it with the body of the Air Zone ones.


I thought the Air Warrior Extreme came out before the panther...



#348516 Zeus Hopper

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 24 August 2015 - 07:54 PM in Modifications

how does it push the balls forward


Gravity, looks like.

Also I'm sad that the rivals ammo is way bigger than a standard paintball.
I really wanted to hook up my Virtue Spire to it and have it rip on the field but oh well.



#334459 New Edible Ammo

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 03 October 2013 - 09:57 PM in Darts and Barrels

Paintball markers, BB guns, real guns, etc. all have barrel rifling, which makes the evenly-weighted ammo stable in flight. Also, those ammo types are far denser, precisely manufactured, and have an aerodynamic tip in some cases.


Paintball markers and Airsoft guns are not rifled.
Rifling is a bunch of bullshit in these type of toy guns.



#341227 Do you still use Nerf brand toys?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 15 August 2014 - 12:48 PM in Site Feedback

I purchase new Nerf brand blasters to play with for 5 minutes and inevitably break it trying to figure out how it works.



#332975 Troubleshooting singled longshot

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 13 August 2013 - 06:54 PM in Modifications

What darts are you using?



#333220 RF20 powered Vulcan

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 19 August 2013 - 01:01 AM in Modifications

I love it man.
Where and how did you come up with this idea?



#334507 EAT (Extreme Alpha Trooper)

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 05 October 2013 - 08:00 PM in Modifications

Is there any reason that it won't catch with the stock attachment piece on?



#333406 Has anybody gone far enough to create a Vortex Homemade?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 23 August 2013 - 11:39 PM in Homemades

Langley, please feel free to close this because I will be tempted to post more speculation in this thread if it stays open.
I have gotten a pre-lim design going on but I don't know how it will work out.

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Just to inspire greatness on those who know what they're doing.



#333655 Looking for a good blaster to hopper and use as a primary.

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 02 September 2013 - 02:02 PM in Modifications

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Here's a quirky little blaster, the Buzz Bee range master. While not exactly hopperable in it's stock shell, if you put it in a new shell it's really easy to hopper with a bit of PVC ang PETG.
I'm hitting a little over 70' with terribly made slugs, so I could imagine it would hit 100' with good ones.

Write up here

While I do say you need to use a dremel I didn't use a dremel at all in this mod, I used heavy wire cutters and a hacksaw.



#333249 Has anybody gone far enough to create a Vortex Homemade?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 19 August 2013 - 06:05 PM in Homemades

If not, why?
Is it the firing method that is too complicated, is it the discs are expensive or too hard to make, or just nobody decided that vortex is not good enough?

The design of a disc already makes it more stable than a dart, which translates to near straight firing and long ranges.
Have you made a vortex homemade?

I'm honestly baffled as to why I have not seen a vortex homemade yet. I'm just assuming that it's the torsion spring set up that is difficult and that it is difficult to acquire vortex discs.

Homemade vortex discs



#333286 Has anybody gone far enough to create a Vortex Homemade?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 20 August 2013 - 12:41 PM in Homemades

Do you have pictures of said test rig?



#333273 Has anybody gone far enough to create a Vortex Homemade?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 20 August 2013 - 12:09 AM in Homemades

Maybe I'll have a plusbow or something and offer that as a prize...

Anyways I'm currently studying the cache and priming mech of vortex blasters (excluding the diatron, because it's different)



#335831 Release of a New Type of Ammo??

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 05 December 2013 - 10:45 PM in General Nerf

It's just elite darts with the suction tip added onto the tip. Instead of conventional suction darts with wrap around the dart, this one is glued by a stem inside.
Pretty neato, may pick a set up because full auto sticky dart action against the window is cool.



#348459 Do NOT Paint it Black

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 20 August 2015 - 01:07 PM in General Nerf

Would this sort of "steampunk" look be acceptable, or is it too realistic?

snip



Seems okay to me, if somewhat on the fringe of being acceptable. I'll let the hardcore milsim-haters weigh in.


Same. The bright blue and bright orange are very distinct and distance the toy from looking like a real gun IMO. Although the brushed metal color does make it look firearm-ish, when you're holding it the primary colors that show are the orange and the blue. Just don't holster it.



#332415 Voltage upgrade = burning foam?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 28 July 2013 - 05:16 PM in Modifications

Okay, first of all I have a nerf Stryfe running at 9 volts, obviously more than the six. All the unnecessary electronics were removed.

I've noticed that on the flywheels, after running about 100 or so rounds through it, that there are bits of burnt foam on the flywheels.
For those who have been running their stryfe/rayven at over 6 volts, have you noticed the same?

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Sorry for the quality, didn't want to disassemble it due to the mess of wires.



#332449 Voltage upgrade = burning foam?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 29 July 2013 - 10:46 AM in Modifications

Athletic tape leaves no residue.

Duke's duct tape idea sounds cool though.



#332808 SledgeFire A/R Removal

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 08 August 2013 - 11:53 PM in Modifications

I don't have a Triad, but the SledgeFire is a shotgun, it just fires all 3 darts at once. I doubt it's the same.


Oh, my mistake. Would you recommend removing the shell ejection system and just glue the shell permenantly into the blaster to remove the necessity of the shell?
Or better yet create a brass "shell" barrel for a tighter fit?



#332798 SledgeFire A/R Removal

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 08 August 2013 - 08:46 PM in Modifications

very nice!

I don't know if you have a triad or not but I heard that the sledgefire has the same smart AR as the triad.
Does this have the same problem as the triad when removing the AR?



#332899 On a Quest for Better Stefan Range

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 11 August 2013 - 07:33 PM in Darts and Barrels

I'm no veteran but I believe that it's the length of your stefan that is affecting it's flight.
Stefans are usually only 1.5" in length because that's the optimal size to balance with the #6 washer and felt tip. At 3 inches the front is much heavier than the rear causing it to dive bomb.



#332903 On a Quest for Better Stefan Range

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 11 August 2013 - 08:00 PM in Darts and Barrels

You want a heavier front, that's what makes darts flight stable.

Toast, if you bought from Kane, he explicitly says not to use them with metal. So stahp.

Correct, but my simple knowledge of physics makes me assume with the front weight to rear weight ratio is too disproportionate.



#333161 How do you cut Plastic Tubing from McMaster?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 17 August 2013 - 02:56 PM in Darts and Barrels

The 1/2" brass from McM fits perfectly.



#333145 How do you cut Plastic Tubing from McMaster?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 16 August 2013 - 08:28 PM in Darts and Barrels

Hey guys, got 1 more post for today, when I received my tubing I just made it have at tight fit in the second cutter dartslinger posted, and then scored the tubing until it fell off.
Thanks for all the suggestions.



#341141 Looking for a very high torque gearmotor

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 10 August 2014 - 01:58 PM in Homemades

Motors from vehicle power window regulators may be what you are after. They are usually worm drive assemblies, and built for high torque. If you want to pay shipping, I'm sure I could scrounge up a couple from the scrap pile here at the shop I work at.


I second this notion. Window motors are very strong, in robotics we used two of them to pull over 100 lbs of spring force back.



#333123 How do you cut Plastic Tubing from McMaster?

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 16 August 2013 - 02:18 PM in Darts and Barrels

First off, I apologize for my "helplessness", but I just ordered the plastic tubing from McMaster Carr, part number 2044T43.
Of course, it's not true PETG (or so I'm told), so I don't need fancy tools to cut it (which I don't have).

It says on the website I can cut it with scissors but I don't want to break my scissors.

I have pipe cutters, but they're the cheap kind that give you an angled cut in the end. What I'm asking is can I score the tubing with the pipe cutter and use my scissors to cut it?



#332819 Nerf Mega Centurion Mod

Posted by xXhunter47Xx on 09 August 2013 - 03:46 PM in Modifications

So it seems as though this blaster is not worth buying for modification.
Have you taken a look at all at the plunger rod?