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#361939 What UV LED should I use to charge EKIND glow darts?

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 11 November 2017 - 02:07 PM in Modifications

i didn't know if this should go here or in "darts & barrels", so sorry if this is in the wrong thread. just tell me if it is. so i tried making a PVC barrel with a UV LED in it, and the darts wouldn't glow. was it not bright enough? can someone tell me how bright the LED needs to be to charge them very quickly? the barrel was just for testing, i plan to put it under the jam door of the blasters i want to use.

#361950 What UV LED should I use to charge EKIND glow darts?

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 13 November 2017 - 02:11 PM in Modifications

Intensity matters - the sun is brighter that an LED by many orders of magnitude. If you can make the light source painfully bright, then it will probably work well.

That said: how important is UV for this glow in the dark stuff? Is it he case that visible light is significantly less important than UV for getting the glow going?

UV is important if i want it to be charged quickly. UV charges it faster than white light.

The brighter the better - think of how quickly The Sun charges darts vs indoor lighting.


this does not help. i am asking to look up LEDs and search for a specific brightness.

#361943 What UV LED should I use to charge EKIND glow darts?

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 11 November 2017 - 10:45 PM in Modifications

Clear PVC?


Test the LED's in a magwell in the configuration you want to test (eg: lighting down on mag) - a testing rig that isn't what you're trying to do won't help you solve your problem. I can see how plain PVC with LEDs it it wouldn't work a dozen different ways, many having nothing to do with the LED itself or your wiring. I can't help with specific configuration, though I didn't think UV was necessary (white should work just as well, darts charge in regular white house lighting?) and brighter will always be better.


the LED was inside the PVC. it was wide enough to work. and UV charges faster. what brightness level should i look for?

#361918 Motors for IMRs?

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 09 November 2017 - 10:39 AM in Modifications

hello, i recently bought a stryfe and 3 efest IMRs with a dummy battery. i removed the thermistor and locks, and i was wondering which motors i should get? i know i should go lipo, but it's too much for me to handle right now so i'm sticking to IMRs. thanks for the help!

#361936 Motors for IMRs?

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 11 November 2017 - 11:14 AM in Modifications

My group has had to toss a few, but never exploded one. You have to pretty purposely treat them badly to damage them.

Lipos also live in your phone/laptop/mobile device, FYI

so if i charge it outside on concrete and watch it the whole time i should be safe?

#361925 Motors for IMRs?

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 10 November 2017 - 04:04 PM in Modifications

So, just so we're clear, you're down with rewiring (since new motors require rewiring) and spending money on batteries, but not on doing it right? IMR's & charger are going to be about as much as Lipo/NiMH/NiCad (if you don't like Lipo for some reason other than rewiring) & charger, and just less powerful or reliable.


IMR's are meant as a stop-gap method before full rewires and result in a modded-but-basically-stock blaster. They don't have the power to drive mod-motors to their full potential and the market for a mod-motor that is actually just a stock motor doesn't exist for obvious reasons*.


That said, if you still choose to continue on this route, pick whatever motors you want knowing you're underpowering them and plan for whatever battery pack size you want to upgrade to later. 2s packs need 2s motors, 3s packs need 3s motors. Although I'm planning to run a 20v Lion drill pack on my 3s motors (had a Lipo, don't like not also having the charger) and we'll see what happens!


*if not obvious: It's because they come with the stock blasters


i'm not going lipo because of the dangers. i'm using IMR because you can't overcharge them and they are easier to take care of.

#361934 Motors for IMRs?

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 10 November 2017 - 10:22 PM in Modifications

Then go NiMH, Nicad, Lion, etc etc. IMR cant deliver much beyond stock performance, which is why nobody does anything with them once theyve rewired.

Lipo is the highest performance battery (barring some possibly experimental/derivitive chemistries) for weight. Since we dont really need to worry about weight (or likewise, volume) in Nerf, Nimh and Nicad should also suffice; youll have a bugger heavier pack to do the same work but performance shouldn't suffer significantly.

I specifially asked Toruk on Reddit about Lion drill packs one time; normally Lion is not ideal but since a drill is a more demanding use than ours (and 20v!) he thought itd be fine. I have since found need of a battery driver and bought batteries to go with it at Harbor Freight; along with an inexpensive light that uses the same batteries. My plan is to take the light apart and wire it up to one of my blasters to see if it works, because I dont own the charger that accompanies my Lipo and these are more practical for me to keep around.

If you didnt want to go through all the hassle, you could probably just get the charger and battery and wire on your own connectors; but Lion is fickle and requires as much (if not MORE) care than Lipo. In the provided housing and with the charger, the drill batteries are idiot-resistant.

IIRC IMRs are a Lion chemistry in a AA package; so they still require special care. The main reasons theyre safer than Lipo are that they're pre-packaged and they don't have anywhere near the same potential energy.


what are the chances of a lipo going wrong?

#361938 Motors for IMRs?

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 11 November 2017 - 02:02 PM in Modifications

Definitely, thatd be the safest possible way to keep them. I kept my charged battery just lying around in a box on a shelf.

Reccommended best-practice is charge while youre home on a non-combustible surface (concrete, metal), stop charging as soon as practical once finished, use charged batteries within a few days of charging or discharge to storage level, store in a non-airtight non-combustible container (ammo can with holes drilled in it). Also carry a (~$2) voltmeter to check the battery every so often to prevent overdischarge. These are simply extra precautions, your battery shouldnt spontaneously explode for no reason. If it has been damaged (punctured, dropped hard, overcharged, overheated, or overdishcharged) these precautions will prevent fire, but you can also tell if the battery is damaged and toss it rather than risk any issues.


okay, thanks for you help!

#359754 Light and Dark Hammershot Pair

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 08 May 2017 - 03:56 PM in Modifications

Hello, I have recently painted and slightly modded two Hammershots, painting one black and one white for "light and dark".  If you want them, you can purchase them here.




Trading outside of the trading section in not permitted. Advertising things for sale is expressly not permitted.

#362933 "Thanatos" Rayven Phase 1 Short Write Up

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 17 April 2018 - 10:58 AM in Modifications

Sorry, but Simply listing the mods you did with no pictures isn’t that helpful. The purpose of a mod guide/writeup is to explain what you did so other people can replicate it. I for one want to see how you did that battery tray, as well as just a picture of what it looks like. If you don’t have the time to make a full writeup, that’s okay, but maybe just post the mod list with a picture in the mod pictures thread :)
Done bitching.

This sounds cool, can’t wait for phase 2

i couldn't take pictures at the time i was writing it. i'll add some to it.

#362929 "Thanatos" Rayven Phase 1 Short Write Up

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 16 April 2018 - 12:53 PM in Modifications

I've been working on this project, it being my second flywheel project ever. Phase 1 is completed. Phase 2 will be explained once it's done. Phase 1 is just simple basics.

Here is a mod list, for phase 1. Keep in mine this is just phase 1, much more impressive stuff to come.

  1. Neo rhino motors to give it that virtually nonexistant spin up.
  2. Voltmeter hidden under the jam door
  3. Rewired to LiPo with 16AWG wire
  4. That LiPo is a Turnigy Graphene 1500mAh 65C 3S
  5. Custom battery tray made from a toolbox. Doubles the width, but it's massive.
  6. MOSFET'd rev trigger
  7. Kill switch


#362936 "Thanatos" Rayven Phase 1 Short Write Up

Posted by Electronic Leopard on 18 April 2018 - 03:57 PM in Modifications

Thanks for adding pictures, that’s really cool how you did the battery tray. Is that a painted Rayven, or is that a Rayven fire

just a fire. i don't paint until i completely finish my projects because that way i don't have to repaint every time i cut the shell.