Jump to content


PissBacon's Content

There have been 174 items by PissBacon (Search limited from 07-December 96)


By content type

See this member's


Sort by                Order  

#39842 Clr Power Plumber

Posted by PissBacon on 26 October 2004 - 01:53 AM in General Nerf

Has anyone seen those commercials lately for CLR Power Plumber? I've never used/seen in use one of those, but they look like a potential way to add on to a nerf gun for a quick fire, especially on guns that need priming. I don't know if the cleaner emmits some kind of toxic gas or messy cleaner fluid, but if I find time I'll consider experimenting. This also has a lot of potential as a homemade gun. It would be similar to CO2, but a special valve wouldn't be necessary, and the whole design would be simpler. ...I've been missing out on the nerf community lately since school started, but hopefully I can get back to testing my spiral darts.



#55743 Litestep

Posted by PissBacon on 26 May 2005 - 10:35 PM in Off Topic

I've been trying to find help for a while, so I thought it would be worth asking here while I'm at it. For anyone who knows about litestep, do you know some basics about how it is programmed? About a week ago I got v24.7 and it came with a friendly and simple theme called 'austerity'. However, I'm not sure exactly, but at some point in using litestep, things went very wrong. I tried changing a few basic things in the codes, as the manual for the theme had offered specific advice for beginners. When I tried out a couple new themes though, they installed modules to run properly (this could be the source of the issue). The main problem now is, no matter what theme I run, they all have the same damn 'popup' when clicking on the desktop, and the normal shift+LClick does not even cause a popup to occur anymore. This seems very odd to me, as I can't think of any reason for this to have changed, other than maybe testing out other themes. Thanks if you have some advice, and if not, well I guess I wasted my time.

UPDATE: I have a sneaking suspicion that it has something to do with the "/litestep/personal/popup.rc" file, especially the first few code lines talking about default popups and allowing new popups. Still boggled nonetheless.

UPDATE: I've completely fixed the issue. Check out the end result; it is pretty nice
screenshot



#55773 Litestep

Posted by PissBacon on 27 May 2005 - 01:24 PM in Off Topic

I've worked a lot with litestep since when I first discovered it, and from what I gather, memory leaks are a result of poorly designed shells.



#65006 Buzz Bee Rfr + At2k Integration

Posted by PissBacon on 04 October 2005 - 03:13 AM in Modifications

Incredible - it must have taken quite a bit of time to work that all out, as you have stated. The only part I find unfortunate is that the rof is actually decreased because of the pumping required; from a practical standpoint it defeats the purpose of having the rfr mechanism. Nonetheless, it's something new and inventive, and more mods can add onto this as well.



#33503 Tech Target Mod

Posted by PissBacon on 08 August 2004 - 06:11 AM in Modifications

Here's my mod for the Tech Target gun. Three changes occurred:
-Smaller barrel for 1/2 inch (homemade) darts, also slightly longer
-No air restrictor
-Stronger spring

Since I took photos after doing the mod, I'll only have certain views.

http://tinypic.com/1kbrc
This is the gun opened with the (aluminum) barrel already in.

http://tinypic.com/1kbr8
As you can see, the barrel comes apart easily from the main part of the gun.

http://tinypic.com/1kbqu
This is an important part of the barrel. It has to be cut neatly out so that air is allowed through easily, and should line up with the inserted barrel.

http://tinypic.com/1kbr6
Finished product left side.

http://tinypic.com/1kbqg
Finished product right side.

If the pictures won't load, it's because I dont have photobucket yet, so the geocities site might be over its limit.

This gun gets a pretty good range; I measured around 65 feet angled based on 3 test fires. I know other people have modded this gun, but I thought some looked kind of sloppy, so I made this one clean looking. The main issue i have with this gun is that it is noisy for being a small plunger-type gun. I can't figure any practical ways to make the noise quieter without reducing range.



#64693 Post-mod Pics Of Ertl Blowdart Turret

Posted by PissBacon on 30 September 2005 - 07:41 PM in Modifications

awesome idea

It's also a pretty universal idea - something you could adapt to many guns.



#65428 Ram Help

Posted by PissBacon on 10 October 2005 - 02:43 AM in Off Topic

What all is going into this system? Both of those choices aren't great latencies (which directly affects performance). Sure 4gb is nicer than 2, but not only are both of these not particularly fast, the 4gb is basically really slow. I reiterate: what are you putting this memory into?



#86232 Cool Find

Posted by PissBacon on 01 August 2006 - 03:18 AM in General Nerf

Those things are painful, I know by experience. However, they aren't really worse than paintballing, but keep in mind it'll hurt more than nerf darts. As for plasti-dipping, that's not gonna do much except jam the firing mechanism.



#53378 Help With Modding An Rf20

Posted by PissBacon on 24 April 2005 - 05:42 PM in Modifications

Well, first of all, you probably are not going to need the 20 barrel assembly. I'd probably start by opening the gun up and seeing where everything is. Since I don't want to make a rice firing gun myself, I'm not going to open mine up and ponder this. To solve the rice going backwards issue, you'll need some kind of mesh that allows air through, which you will place between the area of the barrel where rice goes and the firing mechanism. One thing I'm unsure of: do you want the rice to fire in single pellets or just bursts of rice like a shotgun effect?
As for the actual rice firing part, I would make some sort of hopper like paintball guns have to mount on top. You will probably want to single barrel the rf20 (sound crazy?). The rice would flow into a part of the barrel, and then the barrel will funnel to create higher pressure as the rice leaves the barrel. I don't know how far/accurate this rice needs to fly, so I could come up with a more efficient barrel design too if you like.



#63839 G-mail

Posted by PissBacon on 18 September 2005 - 02:51 PM in Off Topic

Also, I'd like to add you can get g-mail without invites now.



#70183 Dremel

Posted by PissBacon on 31 December 2005 - 02:59 AM in General Nerf

You might also like to use the cylindrical cutter (made of metal) for cutting parts of the shell of some nerf, as well as for working on restrictors depending on what feels comfortable. In general the disc cutter is your best friend though. In case you don't know this, never ever use the metal bits on metal parts, use the disk or sand parts on metal.



#48219 Inklink

Posted by PissBacon on 27 February 2005 - 09:14 PM in Off Topic

I've played before. I remember seeing some crazy drawings of master chief on a halo forum.



#64242 New Topic To Get Away From The Sniper Topic!

Posted by PissBacon on 24 September 2005 - 02:31 AM in General Nerf

Surrounding the barrel with flexible materials like hot glue and e-tape will not keep it from bending out of line when it's dropped; they will just flex with it. Not only that, but this doesn't answer the original question

To make sure a barrel is straight, the method will really depend on what gun you are modding. For something like a blast bazooka with a long barrel, you can use a pendulum. Get a right angle to mark a line along the barrel stub; this will be a reference point, so it is important the line be straight so the barrel will be too. While the barrel/stub of the gun is facing the ground, attach the pendulum (probably tape) so that it runs along the marked line, physically touching it. I'm lucky enough to have a vice in my room, but use whatever is convenient to hold the gun in place while doing this alignment. To make sure it's lined up both left-right and foreward-backward, you need to see both if the string lines up with the line and if the string is parallel to the barrel stub.

The black lines are the gun, orange is the barrel/stub and pink is the pendulum.
Perspective is you looking at the gun while its stub points towards the ground.
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image
Good ------------------- Bad --------------- Bad
Using paint images: just goes to show how inarticulate I am.

It really depends on the gun; on some guns you can use decorations that go across the gun lengthwise that are clearly parallel to the barrel instead of using a right angle. After you have the pendulum where you want it, just put the barrel in the stub, making sure it lines up with the pendulum, and glue.



#84027 Xp220

Posted by PissBacon on 30 June 2006 - 03:01 AM in Modifications

If you don't mind the size of the tank you have, you can always just put something solid in there and make sure it doesn't enter the rest of the gun. Something like plastic pellets or rocks comes to mind. It's an easy way to reduce the volume without worrying about being air-tight, as long as the material doesn't enter the valves or pipes.

After looking at pictures of the XP220 I realized that I've modded one before, though the results were very disappointing. It had to do with the trigger/valve which didn't open fast enough to let all the air out quickly. It's a squirt gun after all; it's supposed to release the pressure over time.



#83918 Xp220

Posted by PissBacon on 28 June 2006 - 07:35 AM in Modifications

You definitely want to reduce that tank size, unless you are utilizing all of the air volume you have. When I modded a storm 2000 a while ago, I put on a really long barrel since it's such a waste to push so much air through a short barrel. Even with the long barrel, I cut the tank size in half, still keeping incredible ranges. I'd like to know the barrel length you're using, but my general advice is reduce the tank size.

On a side note, I'm posting from Japan. Woot!



#64655 Real Laser Pointer

Posted by PissBacon on 30 September 2005 - 02:11 AM in Modifications

I've done this process using a laser pointer. It was on my storm 2000 gun. The trigger was set up so when you pull lightly, the laser lights, and then a full pull opens the valve.

I don't have a firefly, so I don't know what voltage the batteries are wired to produce. Taking a look at laser pointers, I usually see the 2AAA kinds, and the 3 button-cell kinds. the 2AAA are wired in series, producing a total of around 3 volts, and the triple button kinds probably use LR44's in series, producing 4.5 volts. If you have a volt/multi-meter you can check the output of the batteries so you'll know what kind of laser pointer to use. Also, isnt the firefly wired to just 'flash' instead of maintain light? You will have to mod this too; again I don't have a firefly to offer wiring help.



#63895 Triple Pump Tubed At2k

Posted by PissBacon on 18 September 2005 - 11:52 PM in Modifications

It looks promising.

With the two extra pumps is it really tough to pump, or does it just have reasonable resistance? Also, I'm not sure how you've attached the two other pumps to the gun, but I would wonder if it is sturdy enough without tons of fastening to withstand the extra force of 3 pumps being used.



#64251 Buyin A Rf20/nite Finder

Posted by PissBacon on 24 September 2005 - 10:43 AM in General Nerf

Ask for guns in the trade section, and be sure to mention they need to ship to Australia.



#65628 Crayola'd Bbb

Posted by PissBacon on 12 October 2005 - 02:57 PM in Modifications

I think the idea is: if you can't measure ranges, don't post ranges.



#72317 Bag's Badass Bow

Posted by PissBacon on 04 February 2006 - 10:06 PM in Modifications

I guess it's sort of like two power rangers gettin freaky to 'the bad touch' (that's a good thing right?). I remain impressed with the greatness of this new spraypaint you discovered, but I wonder why you didn't take time to sand down the little things on the bbb that aren't particularly nice looking but easy to remove (tabs on top of sight, nubs on sides of sight for superfluous attachments, name brand if you didn't already,3 raised bars near sight, tiny nubs below the 3 bars). These differences are a matter of taste though, so I'm not arguing that you should have done it, it's your mod. I think I'm to lazy to touch up my bbb though, but like I said before, those extra areas of color are well placed.



#53976 Bottle Gun!

Posted by PissBacon on 01 May 2005 - 05:53 PM in Homemades

You could add some kind of hose/pipe between the barrel and the bottle, so it could be stepped on instead. The force from stepping on it would be much greater than a press of the hands, and would easily make up for the extra airspace in the hose.



#51803 Thinkgeek Gun- Something Familiar About This...

Posted by PissBacon on 06 April 2005 - 10:57 PM in Off Topic

I saw that too, recently. It was because of their april fools thing, I was browsing the site and saw it, along with a pretty nice repeating rubber band gun. The range and accuracy are debatable condsidering the ammunition; still, a great gun in theory.



#49199 Nerf Roller Skates?

Posted by PissBacon on 09 March 2005 - 11:15 PM in General Nerf

Woah, if I remember correctly, I had a pair of those when I was younger. Since I lived on a very steep hill, I used to ride them around the house, until one day I decided feet work better.



#47601 Problems With The Secret Shot 2

Posted by PissBacon on 20 February 2005 - 01:43 AM in Modifications

How would WD40 fix a leak?



#79228 Guns Releasing Air Without The Trigger Pulled

Posted by PissBacon on 08 April 2006 - 10:30 PM in General Nerf

If it's leaking air from the barrel, you've got a valve problem. The sspb I would recommend simply replacing, but for the sf, you'll have to open it up and fix the valve. The red pin that sticks out is the area of interest; one quick fix that might do it is to apply some silicone lubricant (non-petroleum based) to the valve area and see if that fixes it. Good luck.



#73661 Bacon Big Bad Bow

Posted by PissBacon on 20 February 2006 - 01:52 AM in Modifications

I like the adaptation; it's much less complex since you don't have to cut the brass halfway through carefully without bending it (brass pipe is so thin and weak I couldn't use a vice). Sure the glue's a little messy but I'm sure it performs great, suggested by your ranges. I'm suprised it does so well considering how the breech is set up and would be expected to treat a dart.



#66196 Paper Darts?

Posted by PissBacon on 20 October 2005 - 09:14 PM in General Nerf

I've made paper darts before, though I wouldn't dream of shooting people with them. They were just a section of a circle cut out and rolled into a cone, taped and weighted. Pretty crazy ranges when I added a tail to them (bic pen ink part jammed in).



#53094 Supper Soaker

Posted by PissBacon on 21 April 2005 - 11:23 AM in Modifications

http://nerfhaven.com...c=2780&hl=storm
Example of a conversion. This one was modded to load from the back.



#52550 Nite Finder: Old Vs New

Posted by PissBacon on 15 April 2005 - 12:54 AM in General Nerf

Does anyone know, based on experience or word of mouth, if the new n-strike nite finder is worse or better than the old one. I'm aware the new one has a different barrel/dart size, but is the actual range, quality, and/or modibility of the gun different? Thanks.



#33726 Problems With Screws On Titan

Posted by PissBacon on 11 August 2004 - 12:09 AM in Modifications

Ok, here is what I've done in the past when I've needed a screwdriver shape that is uncommon (such as a triangle bit), and was too cheap to buy the bit. Get one of those Bic pens, the clear ones which come in 10 packs for 1 dollar at most targets and office supply stores. It has to be the clear kind. Take out the ink part of the pen which can be pulled out by the ballpoint tip (should be golden brown color) with pliers. Check to see if the clear part of the pen fits to where you need to reach the screws. If it does fit, great, but if not then sand it down some so that it fits. Then take a lit candle and heat up the clear part you have left til it starts to soften up. You should be using the end that the ballpoint pen used to be at, not the end with the colored cap. I recommend using a candle holder with the candle so you can press the pen up to it to test if it's soft. While it's still in it's soft state press it onto one of the screws firmly and hold it there for about 10 seconds or so so that the pen takes the shape of the misshapen screw. Hopefully you can twist and the screw will turn. If the pen sort of grips and then just gets scraped because the screw is too tight, reshape it with the candle, but put it in ice water right before attempting to turn so that it is somewhat harder. Repeat this process of shaping the pen for each messed up screw. When putting it back together hold each strange screw with pliers and press the pen to it again when heated, and screw in. Good luck! I hope I'm not too late.



#76100 Virginia Tech's Crazy Monitor

Posted by PissBacon on 13 March 2006 - 11:34 PM in Off Topic

This setup looks absolutely amazing. It's too bad that Quake III only gets 30 fps max, but 10240x3072 is undeniably incredible. Think The Infinite Shindig has had a go at it?



#62526 The Magvalve

Posted by PissBacon on 25 August 2005 - 02:37 AM in Modifications

The reason I had to use a maglite was because it could accomodate the o-rings. Since I don't own a lathe, I had no way of putting precise grooves into a piece of aluminum or other material; additionally I don't have any other materials that fit like this maglite does.



#51790 Grrr At My Jeans.

Posted by PissBacon on 06 April 2005 - 10:08 PM in Off Topic

Does that happen when you get your pants wet?

:w00t:

There are a few things to consider about your jeans. First of all, some brands just do that. Secondly, if they're new, give them a few washes, including inside out washing. Other things you could try are avoiding contact of jeans to shoes by some strange method like tape on the inside of jeans or rubber band. Also, sometimes using water proofing products on your shoes will prevent stains from attaching. If all else fails (or it's not worth the trouble), just avoid wearing that combonation.



#47600 How Do You Modify A Ss2?

Posted by PissBacon on 20 February 2005 - 01:39 AM in Modifications

Sharp Shooter or Secret Shot?



#52211 Where Can I Get Brass?

Posted by PissBacon on 11 April 2005 - 01:32 AM in General Nerf

You need to learn to use the search feature properly then (proper perameters), because there are plenty of topics about places where brass can be located. Just to give you a point in the right direction, it's sold at many hobby shops, as well as online stores. It can be hard to find, but try those places; most hardware stores don't carry brass.



#52472 Stupid Gun Design

Posted by PissBacon on 14 April 2005 - 12:50 AM in General Nerf

The points you try to touch on, Grumschnitz, seem to be in conflict with each other. You question why they make guns restricted, but later explain why they do so. It is correct though that they have saftey issues with projectile toys, pretty much the only reason to lower a gun's ability. The box says some number just to attract people to buy the product - within reason they can fabricate what they like for a range and not suffer consiquences. I've seen some pretty poorly designed nerf guns in the past though, including one I gave to goodwill, the autogrip.



#62535 The Magvalve

Posted by PissBacon on 25 August 2005 - 02:31 PM in Modifications

So nobody thinks the design of the valve is good though? I'm not sure this has been done before; it doesn't require shells for your ammo, and can load multiple darts if desired. It's also very clip-ready and compact, so instead of adding extra bulk on the outside of the barrel, you just need an extra couple inches for the action of the valve. The whole point of this, despite the name, wasn't that I used a maglite, but that there are better options than a breach valve that don't have to be complicated. I'm sure some kind of marker or other cylindrical material would work (even a wooden dowel), but like I said, I don't have a way to make controlled grooves in something (using duct tape to secure an unbalanced material spinning at high speeds sounds like a window/skull-breaker to me).

EDIT: I suppose I could construct a lathe if I felt bothered to.



#62521 The Magvalve

Posted by PissBacon on 24 August 2005 - 09:28 PM in Modifications

I've been saving this post for a rainy day, and while it's not raining today, here's where I left off on a project started over a year ago. Sorry for the image quality; gotta love that legocam!

Posted ImagePosted Image
These are shots of the basic parts. That barrel is made of aluminum pipe, something I happen to have an abundance of in the perfect ID. It's got a cut halfway through it for about 2''. Next to it is a maglite solitaire (and a guitar effects box I'm working on).

Posted ImagePosted Image
Here we have an assortment of o-rings (you'll need to be lucky to find ones that fit just right), and a close up of the maglite, showing that when you unscrew it slightly, it can accomodate larger o-rings to create a seal.

Posted ImagePosted Image
If all of the blurriness is confusing you, this paint drawing might help. The maglite will be sliding inside of the back of the barrel, allowing a dart to fall through the opening, and then sliding back to create a seal. Lubricant and a perfect size o-ring will be needed for this to work properly. You'll also have to drill a hole down the center of the parts of your maglite, destroying it in the process, as this allows the air to flow through when the slot in the aluminum is covered. The drawing shows a cross section, one in the valve's open state, one in the closed state: the aluminum pipe is in white, the dart in grey, the maglite in hot pink (darker pink where threading is), a rod of some type in green for sliding the valve, and the o-ring in yellow. The hole through the maglite is where air will travel through when you fire a dart.

Soon I will be putting one of these in my LBB to test it out, and will post results (school's about to start though).



#62953 Robot!

Posted by PissBacon on 03 September 2005 - 12:21 AM in General Nerf

I'm wondering what the advantages are to having a 'walking tank' or bipedal type of weapon for the military, aside from being badass and intimidating? It seems like unless it was incredibly maneuverable other vehicles would be far better, along with aerial support in any situation. Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems like unless people come up with something crazy like anime cartoons have it wouldn't be very useful.

PS: I've seen videos of those bipedal robots (on a much smaller scale of course) doing things like playing soccer with great agility and reaction, entirely autonomous; who knows if these are practical on a larger scale though.



#48173 Modded Tech Target

Posted by PissBacon on 27 February 2005 - 01:09 PM in Modifications

Hmm, yes I have read about how to mod SSPBs before. I have plugged the pump handle already; as for the barrel, I thought if I do it, I should at least get a stock picture first since it won't fit so nicely after that. The aluminum pipe will fit nicely based on my measurements. For anyone trying to do this mod, keep in mind you can't just set in the sspb. It is slightly too tall, which means you have to separate the pump from the barrel, and shorten that connection slightly. On a last note, I have never seen that tank expansion mod, I need to try that.

PS: Internals

Posted Image
You have to carve out a great deal of excess.
Posted Image
Sorry, look closely.
Posted Image
The hole in the valve trigger.
Posted Image
The rod used to fire the sspb.