Uh, I believe you have the pictures of the spring mixed up.

Ah sweet. I will make sure to show up.

Here you go a couple pump action snaps where everything (except the spring) can be bought at a Menards or Ace and I'm sure if you tried just a teeny tiny bit you could find a spring at ACE or another hardware store that would work. http://nerfhaven.com...or-new-members/

http://nerfhaven.com.../21824-quixote/

I'm down for a war. I'm currently at Bradley University which is in Peoria.

However, in my ~5 years living her in the past and 1 month currently being here, I haven't found any unpopulated parks in Peoria. Our best bet would be to use the same park that is used for the Mayhem wars in Bloomington.

Anytime I got to Nerf with the Unholy3 and Kane is by far the best Nerf Experience.

 

Other than that Nerfing with all the dope people who decided to drive numerous hours out to the middle of Bumfuck Nowhere, IL to Nerf in an open field all day for Cataclysm 3 ie. LGLF, Beaver, Carbon, and the Minnesota Crew.

 

And definitely not all the war prep for Cataclysm 3: Crazy George

 

MHA is by far the best foam. You should buy some of their dart kits, especially since their darts are the safest alternatives out there.

Take the water gun spring out and put in the stock one, it's stopping you from reaching the catch notch.

Full Metal Alchemist

Seconded

I would enjoy seeing boxes of cereal.

You are correct that the glue is only exposed to the places that it needs to be, which is a plus. Thanks for the compliments!

Edit: Also, just holding a #6 washer in one hand and a hot-glue filled piece of tubing they seem to weigh about the same. I am actually kind of surprised at how light the washers are.

Do you happen to know how heavy these are in grams?

Snickers is a maybe and I have a possible +1.

I'm a maybe for the 3rd. It was the date I was going to set Mayhem 2.5 at

If you want to host a war on the 3rd that's cool. I'm leaning more towards the 10th or 17th. Also marshmallows are not preferred, they got extremely sticky and were very hard to distinguish between darts at the end of the day when the sun is setting.

Also I would like air guns to be allowed at the war as long as they aren't too powerful. Big blasts are generally too strong but 2k and 3k should be fine.

I can replace the water gun with pvc, but the washers and the polycarb plunger tube will be hard. And by hard, I mean I can't because I don't have any money. I also am very opposed to cutting the ring launcher apart...

 

Check out drain extension tubes at your local hardware store that has plumbing materials.There might be some that are close to the same dimensions as the polycarbonate tube Ice Nine used. The plastic ones are generally pretty cheap.

 

http://www.homedepot...790BG/205153709

It's very... uh beautiful.

I made one of Ryan's new extension spring blasters using one of the first Purple handles created. It has work reliably for nearly 300 shots, and it is much easier to install than a regular rainbow catch.

I spent the past week working on an experimental hopper mainly for use with rubber domes, but they also work with the putty BANS. It is made of a cut piece of sch.80 45 degree bend pipe and CPVC as a barrel material.

Of course I will be there any date we decide on, but my preferences are the 27th & 3rd.

A war was had with with safer darts.

Pros:
+Putty vans worked just as well slugs if not better.
+Silicone domes shot for miles but needed cornstarch to work.
+Finally bought Ryan's plusbow.
+Got a free PAS
+Wendys with Ryan and Kane.
+Sold blasters

Cons:
-Vans failed hard in hoppers
-Cold

ACEnerfer on NerfRevolution is planning on attending.

I know in blasters with larger plunger tubes, the friction on the plunger head can increase nearly exponentially as in the id gets larger. In the blaster do you experience a debilitating amount of friction?, or is it only enough so you have to change your barrel/barrel system?

I've made and owned a few different large plunger tubed blasters, and I don't think the friction is a major problem. I think the real problem is that the plunge heads always weigh a million pounds, and there isn't an increase in spring strength to try and counter act the extra mass. However, friction could be another variable for me to think about in the future with these blasters. Really my short barrel is because I have 3" of draw and a plunger head that weighs too much for the spring. I could easily fix this by finding a stronger spring.

This isn't really a write-up, but it's detailed enough that I feel someone with a little bit of effort could build one based off these pictures and descriptions.

The BullShit was built mainly as a proof of concept blaster. This was never intended to be a working prototype, but it worked well enough the first build that I feel comfortable
enough posting my results. I wanted to make something that was bullpup, but didn't require the barrel to come be seated on top of the blaster, or require tubes with slots inside
more tubes with slots.

Front Bushing

It started with a spare part that I got from Ryan and Kane back in June. It's a 1.5" x 1/2" PVC bushing with 1/2" pvc going through both sides 1", then the rear side was inserted in 2" PVC and had
resin poured in around the 1/2" PVC to create a snug fitting 2" internal bushing. The resin was later sanded down to 3/8" tall making the bushing a total length of 1.4375".



Barrel Shroud/ Pump Guide

The next part made was the barrel shroud/ pump guide tube. It's made of 1" thinwall PVC 12" long with a slot cut 1" from one end 1" wide and 3" long. The slot is just barely big enough to allow
the wye to fit in the tube and completely on the 1/2" PVC with enough room for a screw to be put through the wye and PVC.

Unfortunately due to poor lighting and excess flash the original picture was super shitty. I edited it enough to see some detail about what I'm talking about.



Plunger Head & Rod

The plunger head is made of 1.375" x 5/8" UHMW Tube and 1.375" x 2" U-Cup seal. The Plunger head is 1.5" long, with .875" of duct taped wrapped around the back to match the diameter of the u-cup base.
and .25" in front of the seal just enough to keep the seal from coming off as you prime it back.



The plunger "rod" is just an eye bolt nested inside the UHMW tube with a lathed piece of .5" nlyon for the ramp on the back of the eyebolt. To keep the eye bolt in the plunger head
I had to reduce the I.D. down to 1/8"; to do that I nested a .5" of .625" x .5" tube inside the plunger head. Then I nested a .5" x .125" nylon spacer in that.

You have to tap both spacers, and the rear catch spacer also need a set screw in the side to keep it on the rod. To keep all of the nested tubes inside the plunger head you will need a fender washer on the back kept on with a nut.

Front of the plunger head


Back of the plunger head


Priming Plate

This part's purpose is to push back the plunger head and seal against the front bushing to reduce air loss. I made mine out of PVC, but a wide variety of materials could be used as well.
I would highly recommend aluminum if you have access to a lathe. With the plastics, the plate can be turned down on a drill press with a metal lathe cutting tool mounted to the table.

It's 2" wide with a .25" thick chunk turned down to 1.375" for a second u-cup to seal against the plunger tube. The middle hole is drilled out to .75" to allow proper clearance for the spring.
It also has 2 .25" holes for the aluminum rods to sit in. There are no real dimensions for the spacing or placement. The rods are held in place with a set screw on each side.

Both sides have a 1.875" x .75" rubber washer glued on to act as padding and to help seal against the front bushing.





Priming Rods

The rods are 2 .25" aluminum rods cut to 9.5" long. They have holes drilled in the sides on both ends to attach to the priming handle and priming plate.

The rods should be placed as close to the 1" thinwall PVC as possible without touching to give more material on the edge of the priming plate for set screws to drill in.

The extra holes and screws in the PVC are what I'd like to call fuck up holes. Just ignore them.


Priming Handle
The priming handle is just a 1.25" tee with 1.25" PVC inside. It has holes drilled in it for the aluminum rods to slide in (.5" deep minimum any less and it cracks).



Main body, Stock, and Catch

Main body is 7.75" long of 2" PVC.
The Catch is a standard 2" Rainbow catch.
The stock is a 2" PVC tee with a 1.25" x 1" slot cut out to allow clearance for the handle & trigger assembly.



Handle and Trigger

The handle is a walnut Rainbow handle attached to 1" PVC using half of a coupler.
The trigger assembly is a LouieC3 "Revshot" trigger shortened to 6" trigger and 7.875" 1" PVC cover.
For the trigger spring I just used a spare stock nerf gun extension spring.






Additional notes
The spring gets attached to the eyebolt and the screw running through the wye and .5" PVC. If you use Sch. 40 PVC you'll have to ream out the PVC for the spring to fit freely.
In the future I'll use an aluminum priming plate.
The next one (if there is a next one) will have a 3d printed bushing with spaces for o-rings so I don't have to use hot glue for sealing the front.
I'll use 1.25" PVC couplers for the priming handle in the next one or replace the current one.
It is able to fire out of a 10 dart hopper with no feeding problems. 3.5" of draw is plenty, no need for 7" draw blasters.

And Ranges, it is way too cold and snowy to actually measure. But in the fall it was shooting high 80's to low 90's with a 4.5" CPVC to 5" sch 80 barrel and silicone domes.

Isn't this just an inline clip?

I might be able to do something similar to this, and most likely better.

Now I need to find a Longshot.

If you want to hook me up with one of them when you're done you can have one of my Longshots.

Clean, cheap, and easy to replicate; Nice job!

You don't want 3/8" FBR. The usuall size for micro stephans is 1/2" FBR. Now to answer your questions, The amount of felt pads in a pack will say on the box/bag(it is usually 250 or 500 packs that I buy) and 3/8" will not work in your recon 1/2" will though.

I know that Ace #49 springs are good for LS's, or Home Depot has a pack of 4 springs 2 big springs (about the same paower as #49 springs) and 2 very powerful springs that are like 1" in height (they wouldnt work).

I was looking at these kits: http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1423.l2649 and http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1423.l2649 . The first one has a 10kg spring, and the second one just says "industrial", but I can assume its between 6 and 10. Any suggestions?

Buy Venomm's kit.

I have looked at all the mod guides and none of them really go into too much depth on the subject, so don't yell at me saying "WE ARENT GOING TO SPOON FEED YOU" lol. Anyways, thanks for looking! -Jack

Yeah spring loads in terms of Kg is actually a pretty recent occurance (last couple years) so very litle in the past has spring loads in lbs or Kgs.

-major reliability issues

They are pretty notorious for leaking, typically out of the front of the tank. They are back pressure tanks. All the internals are connected together so you can't exactly replace individual parts, so, if you tank leaks and you cant fix it your screwed.

-what one would cost stock and modded today

I've sold my last 3 stock for between $40 and $30. Not sure if that's really the going rate, but it's what I felt like they should be worth.

-likes/dislikes about them in general (handle being comfy, usability, ease of modding, etc.)

They are easy to mod, you should check out some of the guides in the Modifications Directory. The handle isn't exactly comfortable, but isn't uncomfortable either; it falls into the comfort category of the plusbow for me. They are as easy to use as any other singled air gun; However getting the tanks to fire at different times takes some getting used to.

Any people going from the Chicago are willing to drive me *cough* Kane, Ryan *cough* I just wanna keep some possibilities open so if my ride cant take me I would still have a backup.

I am a maybe. I have one question though how far away is the mall of America from the war location.

Ice9's Big Blast: 350fps.

That's because he pumped it fast enough to beat the OPRV so that he could get the best FPS possible, that's not actually how fast it shoots normally. Also why ban hoppers?

What if I use streamlines in a pac could I use a RSCB because stock ammo should have a higher rate of fire.

I really don't see why this needs it's own thread, oh well. Good job finding a simple way to make slam firing PumpBows.

No

I might show up.

I'm out unless I can have Ryan drive me.

It's turret, and no It won't hurt if the rotation mech is stock.

I would say if the original creator is currently trying to sell their designs, then you shouldn't sell any of that product (ie. ESLTs). However rainbowpups haven't been sold by Ryan for a while and it probably would be Kosher to sell them.

Or, you could just PM or Email the builder and ask them if they have a problem with you selling their product.

I tested this out briefly at a MHA war last year and found loading them backwards reduced range and accuracy.

Reliability was significantly improved when used with non-corn starched darts, but equally reliable to those that were coated in corn starch and loaded normal.

As always very nice Ryan, these things are really nice and everyone should make one of these.