Does anyone know if its possible, and where, to get a replacement pusher belt for a Hyperfire?
Kind of accidentally slipped with a scalpel while doing some work on mine... oops.
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There have been 133 items by Kingbob (Search limited from 06-December 93)
I was going to order a couple of airsoft scope accessories for the tacticool look, since they look better, and can be cheaper than the Nerf brand plastic parts.
But they obviously they're for "real" gun mounts such as picatinny and weaver rails. Are any of those directly compatible with Nerf rails?
I know I can buy picatinny rails in various lengths and bolt them on, but i'd rather not add extra parts if i can avoid it.
I've modded a Rapidstrike and im working on a Hyperfire, so of the 2 i'd go the Hyperfire for the amount of stuff you want to cram into it. It has a good amount of empty space in the orange section at the front, and if you cut out the insides of the battery box, you'll get a huge chunk of room in the rear too.
Theres not a lot of empty space in a Rapidstrike at all.
I've been asked by a few people if i'd make them one of my 7 segment style ammo counters like i used in my Stryfe and Rapidstrike:
If i make up a kit, including pre-loaded arduino, all components, switches, and a custom made PCB, would anyone be interested?
Counting up is far simpler because it doesnt require knowing the size of the magazine to set the initial value.
Of course then its a matter of stopping it counting at the right value. Otherwise if you keep pulling the trigger it'd keep counting.
The 7 segment displays i used are about 18mm high from memory, they're the smallest i could find.
Ahh it is a 360, thought so.
The plastic gears that do the retracting and gearing of the motor seem like they might not last if the motor gets sped up with a few extra volts, are there any upgrade gear sets etc available anywhere?
Or, could look at replacing the mechanism altogether with a stepper, or RC servo.
You're right in that the 3 resistors on the buttons aren't really necessary. The ATMEGA328 has internal pullup resistors, so when you set the pinmode in software, if you set it as pinMode(pin#, INPUT_PULLUP) to use the internal pullup instead.
Save a few cents! lol
Well the RPM counter is giving me grief.
I'm using an IR LED/transistor pair attached to either side of a small hole in a flywheel, and at low RPM it does work, but as soon as it gets up to full speed it stops counting. I thought using a faster micro controller would solve it but no change.
I can think of 2 reasons why:
1: The output on the IR transistor cant change state fast enough to keep up with the pulses its getting.
2: At full speed the time that IR light is let through the hole in the flywheel is too small for the transistor to register it.
I have some different IR transistors i'll test to see if any of them work better to solve option 1.
Only solution to option 2 i can think of is to elongate the hole in the flywheel so the IR light gets longer per RPM to register.
But i dont want to unbalance the flywheel by removing too much plastic.
Anyone have any other suggestions?
Yeah i considered the code as well, which is why i stripped it back to a test sketch that does nothing but count the interrupts.
I'm only bothering to count 1 motor since they have the same power supply and are subject to the same braking from darts etc.
The M0 controller runs at 48Mhz, so shouldnt have any dramas, even assuming a high rpm count.
Well the blaster is finished. All the counting, battery measuring, dart firing detection, mag size detection, single/triple/auto firing all working. Turns off the motors (via relay) when out of ammo to save battery, and all working properly.
And i dont like it
The electronics i've put in all work fine, the problem is the belt dart feeding mechanism, its too imprecise. What i mean is, if i have it in single or triple shot mode, the motors get turned off after a single round, or three rounds. Then get turned back on once I release the trigger ready for the next shot. That all works, but the position of the belt and the nubs that grab a dart are too unpredictable. It can push another dart in before it turns off, or it half pushes a dart that enters the flywheel cage but doesnt shoot, but then when i fire next, i get 2 rounds or similar. I just cant think of a way around it.
In a Rapidstrike or something with a more controllable pusher mechanism it'd work fine, but this hyperfire belt drive mechanism just doesnt lend itself to controllable firing.
Moved the IR sensor, but still a bust. They 2 sensors are just too close and the darts are moving too fast.
At 5cm apart they register with zero millisecond difference. Would work on a longer barrel but at such a short distance theres just no difference in time to measure
Got it all assembled today and started debugging. For the most part everything is working fine.
Have 2 issues:
I had set it up to measure the current draw of the whole system, but have discovered that sensor is only good up to about a 3A limit. I'm pretty sure the stock motors will exceed that even on alkalines, certainly when i put in a LiPo. I think i can rework it to be good up to 30A though, but need some components from ebay to do it so thats disabled for the moment.
Secondly, i had set it up to measure the speed of the dart. Had 2 IR sensors, one at the entry to the flywheel cage, other close to the tip of the barrel, with about 11cm between them. But ive found because of the rate of fire, it only works if i fire a single dart. Firing more than one results in the second dart triggering sensor 1, just before, or at the same time as, the first dart exits the barrel. This was messing up the calculations, either getting 0 speed, negative speed, or stupid speeds like 50m/s.
I might be able to get it to work by moving the first sensor to the exit of the flywheel cage, but it will reduce the distance and time between sensors, so may mean the result is less accurate, but will give it a go..
I'm using using millis to get the 4x/second calculation so when its working it will update the display 4x/second. Nothing to be gained by using micros.
I'm using an IR LED, which is matched to the IR transistor. (same manufacturer, same frequency etc). Too difficult to fit a laser diode in where I want it.
According to the datasheet for the transistor it has nice small trigger times as well, and even assuming a max speed of 30,000rpm, thats only 500/s, which both the transistor and microcontroller should be perfectly capable of handling. I made the hole in the flywheel longer so it has a greater period to detect the high of the LED per revolution, but that made no difference.
In theory, and by all the numbers, it SHOULD work! Thats why its so frustrating.
I'm going to go and buy a bunch of different IR transistors today from my local electronics shop, and try others. Maybe one will work.
Since I already have code from the previous versions, i basically just have to adapt it to a new board with some different options.
So far, have the following working on the breadboard:
- LCD screen
- Hall effect sensors for magazine size detection
- Magazine insertion detection switch
- A new "mode" switch for something else i might add
For now i wont add in a "safety" switch. Had one on the Stampede but thats because there was a switch built into the gun for it. Probably wont add a jam door switch detection mechanism either.
I've soldered up an IR LED/transistor pair, just need to code them up to work as the counting mechanism when a dart passes by.
I've started prototyping it on breadboard, and poking around the guns insides to decide what will go where etc.
There is so much space in the front end of this gun its ridiculous. I could fit a lipo in the front and cut off the whole rear end!
I think shot detection in this one will have to be IR based since its full auto, obviously counting trigger pulls wont work.
So right after the flywheel unit i'll look at putting in an IR LED/Transistor pair to detect a dart passing by. If i can fit an IR pair at each end of the barrel tube, i might be able to do a dart speed calculation.
I've settled on using a Feather M0 Basic board from Adafruit. Ordered a couple a while back but hadnt gotten around to using them yet.
I saw how you did that in the other thread and it was pretty clever. You could potentially accomplish the same thing with reed switches if you find that constant mechanical interfacing with those switches wears them out, or you can't make the assembly small enough.
You can mount small magnets between the ridges on your magazines that trip certain combinations of reed switches to denote magazine size.
Actually if you read all the way through, i got rid of the switches and used hall effect sensors with magnets.
Remember the runaway problems you had when powering on the blaster on the mk3? I just thought of something to help avoid thathe and may be easier then a pull down. You could try using a mag lock that let's everything power on but prevents pusher motor operation without a mag inserted, kinda like they normally work but it would still allow for motor rev without the mag.
I solved that, it was just that one of the switches had come loose from its mount and wasnt registering a press properly. Couple of drops of superglue and all good.
So have been stupid busy the last few months and havent done much nerf work, but I scored a cheap Hyperfire on the weekend, so thats inspired me to do some more modding!
First was my basic MkI Arduino controlled Stryfe and Rapidstrike: http://nerfhaven.com...nd-rapidstrike/
Then my MkII with an OLED and extras: http://nerfhaven.com...hot-counter-v2/
And then the MkIII with a fully reworked Stampede: http://nerfhaven.com...controller-mk3/
Now its time to see what else I can add in to a MkIV !
I've already removed some of the locks and put in better wiring to the Hyperfire, but electronically it's still stock.
The obvious things i added in the previous guns will be there:
- Mag size detection
- Round counting
- Voltage display
- Current draw display
- Jam door open detection
- Safety switch
- Single shot, three shot, full auto shot selection
- Stopping shooting at 00 rounds
- Buzzer for safety/no ammo notification
I'll use a 1.8" colour LCD, so i might add a way to change the colour using a trimpot.
Any other suggestions for things to add in? The Hyperfire has a stack of room in the front end so I can fit all sorts of things in.
I've tweaked the design a bit. I've added in a pot read into an analog input which will determine the color of the screen. Can set it to preferred color without adjusting code that way.
Had to add in a level shifter, the buzzer is a 5V device, but the Arduino M0 board i'm using runs at 3.3V so cant drive the buzzer by itself.
I was previously going to leave the firing mechanism alone, not arduino connected but changed my mind. So have added a switch in for the trigger, which will close a relay to drive the firing belt motor. Will let me stop it from running when out of ammo that way.
I have one single IO pin left, cant think of anything else to add, suggestions?
(btw i obviously havent drawn in the +V and GND connections in the diagram. CBF lol)
You got the code for that?
I kinda undestand C.
Not quite finished yet, still getting it how i want it, but its based on the version i used in my stampede, follow the link at the top to find that.
So far have changed the screen layout a bit, doesnt use the same motor drive and firing detection code though.
Will post the code once its done, but the Stampede version will show you most of it.
I have a bunch of lipos in my parts box. Probably use a 2s 4000mAh 20C pack, had it spare for a while. At the moment the motors are stock so no real issue there.
Havent decided whether i'll end up putting in some rhinos or go brushless.
Will run it all off the same motor, have a small 5V regulated power supply that i'll use to run the electronics. Wont draw much anyway.
Wow, yeah i'd never thought of using outrunners!
Impressive engineering work, but not quite my style. I like my blasters to appear minimally modified, the electronics should look like they're part of it, not quite so added on. But thats my personal preference.
Now i'm off to look at outrunners
Have installed most things on the left of the shell. The connector you see on the right is so it can plug into the other side of the blaster. Makes it easier when being assembled/disassembled all the time.
On this side are the mag size sensors, LCD screen, joystick, button, mag insertion switch, buzzer, and micro controller.
Bit hard to make out, but the white overlay lines up with panel lines on the shell so it looks at least sort of part of it. The large round black bit is the joystick, and little black button above it.